/ Central Gully Beinn Udlaidh Q?

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peebles boy - on 09 Apr 2013
Hello,

Just wondering - if you've done Central Gully on Udlaidh as a lead, would you say it was an easily/well protectable route? Taking the girlfriend up there after work today and looking for her to do a bit of leading on the easier sections as long as it's not a runout horror show that'll put her off forever....

Anyone up at the weekend (other that the Rescue info!!) able to tell me how the cornices were doing on the left side of the coire now?

Cheers,
Gordon
prog99 on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to peebles boy:
Big cornices from Quartzvein Scoop onwards but Central looked fine (used as a descent route by at least one party at the weekend)
baileyswalk - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to peebles boy:

West gully would be a good shout, a much better outing, and if your g/f set's off then she would get all the easy pitches.

P1 - Easy ground up to cave on right.

P2 - Ice step (crux), followed by easy ground (but not much protection) to belay on the right.

P3 - Short pitch to get to good ice for the belay.

P4 - Couple of smaller icy steps before exiting.

peebles boy - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to peebles boy:

Cheers for the cornice info.

Re. West Gully - I hear you, but I've done it already so would be good to do something different, and having dropped my only decent ice screw recently (I don't count the remaining ones of unknown origin as decent...), looking for something that doesn't involve too much ice.

Anyone else with ideas?

Cheers,
Gordon
Jamie B - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to peebles boy:

Central Gully looked like a bit of a plod last week - banked up snow and probably little gear, especially if you're short on screws. The exit bowl is also full of hard old slab - one team commented that they'd found it a bit spooky. If you want to avoid ice maybe Udlaidh is not the best choice?
peebles boy - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Jamie B:

Don't want to avoid ice, just avoid LOTS of ice ;)

Quick jaunt after work dictates Udlaidh as venue I think, in terms of drive time and walk in.

May have to settle for a return to West Gully!! Ah well, could be worse, the sun is shining on the West Coast again, the winds are low, the temps are low enough, and the hill is low enough too!!!

Cheers,
Gordon
unclesamsauntibess - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to peebles boy:
> Hello,
>
> Central Gully...................taking the girlfriend up there after work today

> Cheers,
> Gordon
fnaar fnaar
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Jamie B - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to peebles boy:

How many screws have you got and how dodgy are the "ones of unknown origin"?

Personally I think that if you want to build someone's lead confidence you might be better somewhere with plenty of rock gear.

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