UKC

Ok folks more for those of you using the BD fusion. As you can see from my profile I'm already a fairly competent climber currently using the BD vipers which I'm happy with, though who doesn't like new toys.

Have been looking at the nomics and fusions, slightly concerned over the grip rest issues with the nomics as not cheap even if they have so called been resolved. I'm predominately climbing north face routes, alpine mixed and ice.

Stick with the vipers or get some fusions?

In reply to woollardjt:
http://coldthistle.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/black-diamonds-fusion-2.html

In reply to woollardjt: Do grip rests actually make that much difference? I have some old Alien 45's and have never found an axe I like as much. The only thing I have done is remove the leashes and now use some home made lanyards.

BW

In reply to woollardjt:
BTW I thought consensus was the nomics grip rest issues have not been resolved, see Danes site for more info.

In reply to Baron Weasel:
at grade III, 3 I doubt they make that much difference unless your feet slip and your axes grip, in which case grip rests I suspect will make a big difference in preventing a fall. The harder end of tech 4 is around where I think having grip rests will make a larger difference climbing leashless.

In reply to woollardjt:

cheers guys, i've read all the reviews for both axes and that the nomic was still having some problems with its grip rest.

i started off my winter climbing on dmm flys which were fine but since spending a few years with the vipers, i do prefer climbing leashes (sometimes with tethers) and i like the grip rest. Just wondered if anyone out there was using the fusion for the type of climbing i do or are they just overkill.

In reply to woollardjt: I climbed with a pair of Fusions for the first time last Sunday, every review notes that they are rather heavy but i could just add that they are REALLY HEAVY! Otherwise great but compared to my Vipers and Reactors they do feel like real lumps.

I don't really know what type of climbing you do, your fav. climbs on your profile are mainly classic alpine routes where I can't imagine Fusions would bring many advantages over Vipers and might have a few disadvantages such being REALLY HEAVY.

Did I mention that they are HEAVY?

In reply to CurlyStevo: Thanks Stevo - I'm in no rush to change my axes, but will keep it in mind. Previously the only real advantage I could see was to protect ones knuckles, but the ability to use the axe as a snow stake on approach always outweighed that advantage.

In reply to TobyA:

I prefer alpine mixed (triangle du tacul, burnier vogler sort of thing) over scottish mixed (if that makes sense) ive found the two quite different. daft as it sounds its easier for me in the south of england to get to the alps than drive up to scotland. i haven't had to chance to have a swing with the fusion but i had heard they feel heavy.

perhaps best to stick with the vipers

In reply to woollardjt:

Not entirely sure why you would want to change an all round tool for BD's 'premier mixed climbing tool' given the sort of routes that you're doing. However, if you had said that you wanted to spend the rest of your days upside down in a cave......

In reply to nniff:

dont get me wrong i love my vipers and i have played with various axes from petzl, grivel, cassin and i'd still go back to my vipers. just interested to see if people are using the newer fusion and their views on it and what they use it for

In reply to woollardjt:

Did I remember to mention that?

In reply to woollardjt: I've been using a pair of Fusion 2's this season, previously I've been on orange Vipers. As you can see from my profile I don't really *need* Fusions for the routes I do but God I love climbing with them! They just feel so right on the steep stuff and the extra weight in the head means they place really nicely in ice. I've kept my Vipers with the intention of using those for Alpine routes but I'm pretty sure I'd miss the Fusions so I'm not sure which pair to take to the Caucasus this Summer. They are slightly heavier than the Vipers but I don't notice that when climbing, the ergonomics more than make up for it. I don't get on with the swing of Nomics - too light and neutral.

In reply to woollardjt:

I would buy Nomics over Fusions any day of the week, especially if I was climbing ice.

Cheek out the the Pinnacle Film, where Dave Macleod (sponsored by BD) and Andy Turner (sponsored by Petzl) repeat all the routes climbed by Smith and Marshall during that legendary week they had on the Ben.

Dave is using Fusion 2s, whilst Andy is using Nomics. Andy get first time sticks most of the time, whilst it takes Dave several swings to get a good placement.

In reply to woollardjt:

I've just noticed that BD appear to have dropped the Reactor - that's a great shame because it was a proper leashless all-rounder and great for Scotland with a 4x4 pick, adze and hammer. Best not lose one of mine I suppose.

In reply to woollardjt: Get some Trango Raptors from the US?