/ UKC Fit Club Week 317
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (316) thread:
Si dH - What a great week well jealous. Big air was so much fun to try. Next year for me I think
Biscuit - it may be another easy week but its all mileage. use the fitness gains when you get a session for yourself
Mr Chewy - Psyche come and goes. It can come back with just a little bit of progress with project and you can be itching and clock watching the next day to get back there.
Jamming dodger - The first two week of may would be great.Thanks :)
Pork pie girl - Well done on space race
Stevemarkperry - nice mileage on the bike
EagleRiver - have you thought of the space race extension as a 7c+
deacondeacon - Snakes and ladders looks so much fun. I loved the fang when I did it
Ian Bell - good news on the shoulder
Ali - shame about the malham blow out there is always another time. thanks for offering to do may week three
AJM - another dream week. Trad season is definately in gear
Needkraken - Welcome btw you went to caley not curbar ..
DoctorU - WEll done on the HVS hope Kaly went/ is going well.
NMN - a holiday is always good.
Mattrm - nice week
kevster - Awesome day in the gorge
Luke Owens - Pump action sounds fun shame I promised myself never to go back there. Out of interest can you recover on the jug? 20m is pretty long but not too bad. It could be you just you need to rest mid route before the last section.
Grubes - Fatty
Exile - hope your feeling better
Nomics4sale - getting out a bit not back to work yet? nice haul of ticks
twigger - did they claim the cams?
Maria85 - Well done on the E2. did you take the falls?
joughton - Well done on the 7c+
ally smith - well done in spain did you try the gladiators traverse?
Leon - get much done at BB?
Kylieo - good effort on the routes sounds like a major work out
Jimmykay - Beastly week! get yourself on an 8a! I loved forada keen to get back there now I am climbing better
Daniel Heath - Climbing is an excellent excuse to not post on fit club. get yourself on an 8a!
To cover may fit club so far we have:
5/5 : Jamming Dodger
12/5 : Jamming Dodger
19/5 : Ali
26/5 : TBC
I can do june unless someone else want to.
Also it has been mentioned before so a yorks limestone UKC meet who is in?
Any suggested dates?
for me 21-23 june would be good.
Thanks again mate.
A couple of vids here. I've yet to upload Robbie Phillips on an 8c and another friend on Ergometria 8a.
In the past few weeks I've just been climbing, which has been great for climbing, but I've neglected other fitness (antagonistics and CV).
I need to be honest - I've also neglected my diet.
Clearly I shouldn't complain that I can do my best onsights at my heavy weight, but I know that I will be much better when I'm back at 10% fat.
I now have a chart for weight loss leading up to the combined service climbing champs in June.
Current weight 68.5, 19% fat
Goal weight 62.0, 10% fat
I've done it before, I'll do it again.
My training goals will change now, and I have a niggling injury which I need to rest. On a brighter note, I realised in Spain that I don't need to be any stronger. Sure there were some cruxy routes that shut me down, but generally I fell due to pump/route reading. This is cool because it means I just have to train circuits even more.
Fingerboard and pull up variations
Assuming weather is good I could be up for that, hopefully Kilnsey dry by then...
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Dan, it was the point where you were campusing beastmakers monos that I knew you just needed to get fitter!
Thanks a lot grubes.
Logging fitclub from my phone this week so it won't be as much detail as I normally do but here goes.
For the last few weeks my main short term goals have been to get a few E1's done and then hopefully one or two E2's if I'm going well. I smashed that this week, and have been on a high all week.
Sun Surform-Higgar tor- E1 (hvs on ukc)
The Rasp-Higgar tor E2
Mon Hawkwing-Roaches E1
Commander Energy-Roaches E2
Wings of Unreason-Roaches E4
Tue Nutty Land- Froggatt E1 (hvs on ukc)
The Big Crack-Froggatt E2
Parallel Piped-Froggatt E3
Wed/thu/fri indoor bouldering every day and a bit of a plod round Baslow.
Sat/sun nothing (went to Hull to visit family)
Everything was onsight except The Rasp (one fall, ground up), and Commander Energy (think I seconded it a while ago but retro'd it this time).
Wings of unreason is my first E4 onsight and I found it really hard but very doable.
This week has given me a new confidence in my climbing, knowing that I am capable of these routes if I just pull my finger out and get on them.
I also tried to go skateboarding in Leeds but when I got there it was packed with kids as it was still the Easter holidays, so rather than looking like a paedo I went next door to CityBloc and had a great session. I'd never been before but it's a really nice wall with well set problems and friendly staff.
Doubt I'll get much done this week as the forecast isn't great and I'm going to New Zealand in 9 days so have lots of organising to do but we'll see.
Wow great ticklist and congrats on your first E4 OS. It looks like you need E4-commitment on that route.
There's trad too...
Hi, going to try to get back into posting regularly. Lots of people climbing really well at the moment - feeling inspired! :-)
Mon - Rest. Fighting off a lingering cold/cough thing.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Biscuit Factory. Trying the new reds which are great, and Ali's evil green sloper project, which is nails.
Thurs - Castle. Comp wall and mezz. New holds - ouch.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Castle. More finger shredding on the comp wall and mezz.
Sun - Nothing yet, but will prob go for a boulder in a bit if my skin will take it.
As Andy said there's loads of classic trad routes at both Malham and Kilnsey. Malham has loads of classics from HVS to E4 I, Kilnsey doesn't have so much of the easier stuff but one uber-classic E2 and loads of E4/5s.
finally wrote my 100k report http://eryridiaspora.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/anglo-celtic-plate-100km.html
M: am: 4.5 mile road run. pm: 8 mile road run
t: 12 mile trail run
w: am: 5 mile road run, fly back to UK for mates funeral
t: am: 5 mile road run
f: am: 7.3 mile road and trail run. pm: 5.2 mile road run
s: am: 8 mile run with 3 mile park run, won 18:44, hilly so happy enough. pm: 11 mile trail run
s: 11 mile road run fly back to Germany.
Abbing for the gear is a bit of a ball ache though.
As for malham/kilnsey perhaps I should get stuck into some sport.
S: Travel out
S: Can Parsit Onsighted 4 x 6a/6a+ Worked a 6b+ to a clean 2nd
M: Margalef: Onsighted 5x 5+/6a+ Gave up on a 6b which turned out to be 6c
T: Siruana Main/Herboli:Onsighted 4 long 6a’s (one seemed much harder, possible 6b)
W: Can Parsit: Worked two harder 6c lines to a clean 2nd
T: Onsighted 5 routes 5+/6a+ and one 6b
F: Red pointed a 6c from Wednesday 1st go putting drawers in as I went (gave up on the other one, couldn’t do the steep boulder start) Aborted go on a 7a then two 5+’s to finish the holiday off
STG: At least 6c RP in Siurana DONE Start aerobic stuff for summer trip to Alps
MTG: Sport 7a project (Puddlejumper)
LTG: Appetite (7a+)
Quiet week for me, been resting the shoulder and had lots of interviews / interview prep.
Fri - Biscuit Factory. Half a dozen or so of the greens. One red V4 (3rd go so must be soft). A bunch of the V2 and below. Still trying to keep it easy for the shoulder. Good to see I still have a reasonable degree of strength given I've not been climbing hard for 6 weeks or so.
Booked physio now as still getting some disconcerting shoulder popping noises and pain, hopefully nothing too bad. Aiming for a post work sandstone trip tomorrow and then Portland at the weekend. Maybe try and RP a couple of 6cs, don't want to push it too much at present.
cheers luke. Not looked at the extension of Space Race, if my mate ticks Space race off next visit I imagine we'll spend more time on the upper tier as we've both projects up there.
STG: 8a by end of 2013 (maybe Toadal Recall) and one of Biological Need / Dominatrix / Subculture at Kilnsey.
Tues: Craig Y Longridge. First time there in ages, it felt really steep to start with but I eventually got back into the swing of it. Repeated Push to Prolapse (V5), fell off the top move of Big Marine (V7) twice and worked the Fertile Delta sit start V7/8, got through the sit start bit but didn't land the jump move to the big jug. One to work on. Didsome sideways shuffling too.
Thurs: Indoor routes, funny how a few weeks of outdoor climbing can ruin your indoor performance. Felt pretty weak on most things, two goes on a 7c which has a hard crux, failed on a 7b, did more mileage at that grade (all failures!).
Was away at a wedding this weekend so didn't get any more climbing in. Hopefully out next weekend and if the weather permits at CYL again mid-week.
Went to the wall Monday. Bit of aerocap to warm up. Tried a boulder problem with some of the guys, they thought it was V7, I ticked it quickly with some heely goodness. It's either means I'm strong enough to do V7 really quickly or my heel use is good enough to tick V5-ish problems that rely on heel tricks. For the avoidance of doubt, it wasn't V7! Roped section was terrible though just ran out of energy so went home early.
TCA Friday. Got on circuits. Improved link on the green but that board was well busy. Had a few goes on the 7a on the shallow board, and then just jumped on circuits, fell off loads, but basically spent the whole evening either pumped or with swollen forearms recovering. So not too bad.
Went to the wall today. Jaded, need some new hard things to work - my usual psyche for lapping stuff into the pump causes my arms to explode just isn't there. Onsighted the 2 new 6cs and the new 7a. Did a few laps on the 6c on pockets, good stuff, felt aerocap sort of intensity which is good.
Hopefully out one evening this week. And the chance to go to a Birmingham wall Wednesday too. Hopefully this will help my mojo recover, I think it's suffering from hectic work and from the "I should be outside by now!" end of winter jadedness.
Fingers crossed for a van test trip next weekend. Been starting to tidy things up a bit after a few weeks off it - fitted a bin, the last bits of insulation on the rear door, some catches and retaining straps, a few other bits and bobs. Plans for next week are to maybe fit the curtain rails, shelves in the cupboards and start on the overhead cupboards. My missus on the other hand gets the fun of upholstery and curtain-making! At least she gets to do it indoors, he says, listening to the rain outside...
Yeah, some good sport psyche currently, and some excellent trad efforts too. Nice to have you back, the girls are in danger of outdoing the boys. Which is adding some hope for me as im a bit weak for a lad. What's your current goals?
I'll post my update later, good work all. Wings of unreason....... I'm not far off trying it myself. Fingers x. I'll be made if I onsight it! Effort!
Yes brain fail it was Caley
Had a pretty much fail week which isn't what I wanted just starting fit club, got a problem with my toes and have had a general lack of psyche =(
STG - Get an outdoor 6a/ work on body positions/ get more confident outdoors
MTG - Regular 6a/ Second HVS/ get leading psyche
LTG - crush
Sun/Mon - Ended up really busy so didn't do much
Teus - Played 3h netball with the guys from work - not really climbing training but all that running around has to count for something
Wed - Indoor session 2.5 hours with a bit of core at the end
Thur - was lame
Fri - bit of core work
Sat - all day rehearsal so was busy =(
like I said bad week, but if anyone has any ideas for stretch work or exercises that would be good as well as core that I could do when I have a spare 10 mins between things?
Kaly was amazing: The people, the rock, the sea, the food! Definitely need a return visit.
I was out there with a group from Clwyd Mountaineering Club, but also had my 7yo daughter, so it was never going to be a "focused" climbing event. So there were only about a dozen routes climbed in the 5 grade, interspersed with successful hikes and beach days with my girl. However, I was completely and constantly surprised at the camaraderie of climbers: on the first day, a couple of climbers helped me set up a grade route for Lizzie while I solo'ed on long slings, pointing out holds; then coming back (just me and Lizzie) people helped out all over.
Climbing-wise, I found my mojo slightly disturbed on both Kastelli and Afternoon/Spartan Wall zones. I struggled with route finding on thin 5c slabs, both tufa and sharp chickenheads. I'll forego the excuses, suffice to say that I need some outdoor sport practice. Or find a few juggy 6a routes outdoors!
We arrived back early this morning, so today has been a recovery day. I was considering going to Reading Climbing Wall, but it was already 4pm, so I warmed up my hands on my guitar, then did 4 sets on the biggest holds on the Beastmaker (1 set=6 times 7s on, 3s off then 60s rest) - first BM session, so take it easy.
Weight: 78.7Kg, 16.7% - Hmm, a recumbent week in the sun with good food has shown (negative) results!
Trad-wise: I'm bound to be out somewhere in the next 2 weeks. Ordering my own rack to play with - woohoo!
STG: Get outside this week onto some rock and attack a familiar 6a or two;
STG: Back onto dieting properly (instead of coasting)
STG: More Trad practice at sub-HVS 5a and below in prep for May's Pembroke Trip (was MTG)
MTG: Learn to trad lead: on track.
LTG: On-sight Leading E2 5c, 6B sport outside, 6C sport inside (revised targets).
UKC trip: Sounds good! But I couldn't make 21-23 June, I have a family wedding. I could probably make the weekend before/after?
Feeling better now thanks!
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Spring:
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7 – not going to happen, but had a great winter. Pleased with the VI 6 on a full on weather day last December
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
I’m afraid I lied last week.
Last Sunday I wrote this:
‘I found myself putting my winter rack away on Sunday. Reading about PPGs success, and realising that during April last year I HPed E5 6b, I feel really motivated to get out on the rock.’
M: Rest. Morning, saw these:
And read this:
Afternoon: Rang a mate. Evening, I found myself pulling my winter rack out again, setting a 3.30am alarm and pretending I didn’t have a cold.
T: 7hrs on the hill, Dove Crag Gully. Led both the harder pitches, prob’ V 6 on the day. Superb day out.
W: Rest. Put winter rack away again. Cold gone!
T: 1hr power endurance traverses and core. Felt good.
F: 45min continual traversing on 6b+ traverse for endurance
S: 1hr fell run, felt a bit sluggish
S: 1hr 20 power endurance traverses and core. Best PE session yet
Great to hear lots of tales of outdoor climbing, hopefully the weather will be good next weekend and we can get away. Really psyched to get on some rock for a change!
Monday - bouldering and campus stuff. Got half a move further on a problem I've been trying for ages but it leaves me stretched at full reach on rubbish holds, I can't work out a way to do it without being taller! Played around a bit on campus rungs to see what I can do, turns out basically nothing! Did a little with some assistance, I won't be doing much but a little after some bouldering sessions will hopefully help me gain some strength/power.
Tuesday - light conditioning.
Wednesday - meant to be another double dip session but really couldn't be bothered. Managed 5+,6a,6a+,6b+,6b+ all twice. Fell of the 7a repeatedly for 2 goes then tried a new 6c and failed miserably.
Thursday - conditioning session, then 5 pullups which I think may be my best ever!
Friday - more bouldering and campus. I got a V2-V4 circuit problem I had been trying for a while so pleased with that.
Saturday - rest
Sunday - redpoint session - got a new 6b, completely failed a 6b+ then had 2 long goes on the 7a+. First go I rested loads and worked most sections repeatedly. Second time I managed it with one rest pre-crux and then went back and worked the whole crux section some more. I am still a long way off doing it though, there are some really strenuous clipping positions. Definitely good training though, I'm so tired now.
And goal success, posting on a Sunday for once!
yorks l'stone meet sounds good, couple of special dates over that period you've suggested though so expect i'll be there for at least one of the days.
last week went like this:
most days climbing at malham and out of bike, bought a road bike on tuesday, broke my mtb rear suss the same day (think it actually just needs some more air... i hope so anyway) increased mileage on bike to help sarah prepare for a ride she's doing in a couple of weeks (might do it too)
spent monday through to wednesday at malham after warming up trying to find my next project, very frustrating and made for very long days with nothing gained other than sore fingers, niggling finger and wrist injury
did start leading consenting on my warm up though... really not keen on the third bolt, extended it to buy myself a couple of more feet if i come off whilst clipping the third bolt.
so monday to wednesday did this...tried chiselling the drag felt ok, then got back on it the next day and it wrecked my fingers (skin) on my left hand..and aggravated ongoing injuries (wrist and finger on same side) can't work moves because it's too painful, tried again on wednesday and felt like i was on a hiding to nothing, i clipped up mescalito, toad licker and a route to the left of toad licker that was an 8a+ and was horrid as the holds were just snapping off, didn't mean to go up it, thought it was toad licker..poor guide book reading!!
then i clipped up what i though was new dawn, on my way up i thought it felt very very butch.. then realised i was on GBH... saw someone on it the other day who also thought they were on new dawn ... and like a sheep i just went up it without checking the book... came back down it, worked the first half of mescalito .. which felt very hard but i enjoyed the moves and once i got over feeling intimidated by it settled on this being my project.
worked mescalito on friday and this morning, it's very technical and strenny, can do pretty much all of the moves up past the crux ... (what i've been told is the crux anyway.. haven't gone beyond that point yet) linking all the moves if a very different matter.. i linked the first two bolts this morning.. so it'll be a very long and hard project.. told today by a coach that it's an 8a really.. god knows .. it's hard whatever it is and will keep me busy and frustrated.
monday- malham and mtb ride from malham, rear suspension broke
tues- malham and road bike ride from settle to malham and back again... getting used to the new wheels
w- malham and road ride fro m malham
t-long mtb ride
f-malham and road ride from malham
s- long road ride
today - malham and road ride in pissing down rain
back to work tomorrow, plans this week are... 1-2 x craig y longridge, 1-2 malham, more biking (daily cardio sessions) back to gym twice a week for weights, core 3x per week. possible rest day tomorrow... but going to look at craig y longridge and possibly have a play.
MTG-rest of april through to mid may ish.. link moves up to third bolt of mescalito on top rope, once i can do this start leading the first half and see if adrenalin will push me through to the fourth and possibly the fifth bolt.. that'll be past the crux.
if/when i get to this stage then i will start working from the fifth bolt to the top
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push - Tick
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
7b - Tick
Weight loss! - Tick
This Weeks Goals:
Back on it. tick
holmfirth tonight tick
Crack climbing. Fail blaming the weather
Wall session friday fail
M: holmfirth with h. First evening climb of the year skin felt crap. Warmed up usual circuit. Plus harder problems I finally ticked in Jan. Progress on a traverse project finally did crux
w: holmfirth. Awesome session. Warmed up on my traverse project moved past the crux but messed it up. Next started usual circuit plus the crimpy 6B+ which seems to go every time now after 18months if work. New 6C tick :) then did the 6As with the bad landing and cruxes at the top finally
S: rest footy with me dad nice day out we won
S: heavy rain over night sacked off millstone plans went to the depot Leeds climbed badly poor score in comp. Got annoyed with so many kids being there as I really wanted swear loudly but could not
Next week goals:
Crack climbing to feature
Evening at the crags
Great Holmfirth session plus equalled my hardest boulder grad with a new 6C. Awesome evenings
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.
M: - indoor routes.
T: - 5.05m road run, 63ft.
W: - nothing.
T: – 17.70m trail run, 1,917ft.
F: - indoor bouldering.
S: - 6.50m trail run, 569ft.
S: - am: indoor routes.
S: - pm: 6.92m trail run, 811ft.
Weight - needs sorting, really does. Climbing was easier when 3kgs lighter.
Mon - Routes, all top roped. 4+, 3 4times & no rests, 6b+ 8m, 6b+ 8m x2 no rest, 6c 9m (first go), 7a 1st clip, 6b 8m, 6b+ halfway. Stupid pumped!
Tue - Forgot knee brace so, warmed up then 2 sets on the BM big slots, then went to start 3rd and nothing in my fingers. Literally NOWT :-(
Wed - Rest
Thu - 60 dynamic but nothing more. Pathetic really.
Fri - RAC Boulders for a couple of hrs after work but no psyche, couldn't pull as forearms were so tight and empty. Scared of slipping when on a slab and twisting the knee, so just farted around really on V0ish stuff.
Sat - Working meet at club hut.
Sun - Working meet and drive home.
Strange week really. Monday was great! Had a go at a 6c, breezed to 9m and could see the next move just nowt left but was happy with that. Looking at the night's work, was pushing my limits all evening, despite going with the intention of leading easier stuff.
Had nothing left on Tuesday but realised I'd climbed 18 days out of 24 - forearms were seriously in need of rest. Finally woke up on Sunday with them not aching.
Booked a session for tomorrow with Alex Fry, to sort a training plan out and hopefully move forward. At least my arms might be up to it now.
Monday: 3 mile walk into town.
Tuesday: No work that day, so did a 35 miles bike to a friends, shared a bottle of wine and lunch, 1.5 hr walk having my arm ripped off by an overeager Viszla pup. Nice to just do something relaxing and have a chat.
Wednesday: 28 miles bike.
Thursday: 25 miles bike, 1/2 hr core, 1 hr swim.
Friday: 28 miles bike, core tabata stuff. Bit vague but it got my abs working, so all good.
Saturday: Ate pizza.
Sunday: 4 mile walk, 25 miles bike, 1 hr swim. Really enjoyed tonight's session, feel like im making quick progress with the swimming.
Ive also installed the fingerboard I bought recently (shameless plug for Crusher Holds...) and been playing on that a little today. Gently gently though, as I dont need trashed tendons on top of a dodgy hip.
BUT, the best bit of all.... I've hit my target weight!! How did that happen?! Feel so good, ive not weighed so little my entire adult life!! Lost 1.5 stone since the middle of December. Yes :D
Before/after pics available on request.
I feel nippy on the bike and generally more comfortable in my own skin. Just need my brain to catch up now. 7a here we come! Im chomping at the bit to get some climbing done.
Everybody have a brilliant week.
Have a good long think about it and dont allow yourself to get distracted by other transient goals. Ive been making this mistake for years.
Enjoy the training session. Im sure you'll get lots out of it.
Just want to say thanks to everyone - last year, when I was trying to train for the ultra and work was getting in the way, this thread and the fact I had to post something actually kept me going. It seriously made a huge difference to my attitude. Reading regular grade bashing, obscene running mileage and all sorts of random exercise has been truly motivational, certainly in a climbing sense and whereas before I may have just desired to be neat and climb on a few nice crags... now I want to progress and get way better than I ever imagined possible. Thanks.
I'll still be sat on my sofa reading everyone's reports and giving a "YYFY!" when appropriate. Happy crushing!
All men dream but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity; but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dream with open eyes to make it possible.
STG (spring): Onsight at least 2-3 new E2s on grit then try to get maybe 2 grit E3s done. Also do an E3 in Wales while away over Easter (possibly on slate).
MTG (summer): Onsight at least 3 E3s & maybe an E4 on peak limestone and at least 2 E3s further afield eg Wales or South coast. Redpoint at least 1 F7b/+ to help keep fitness levels up.
LTG (autumn): Onsight another 3 E3s on grit and an E4 either on limestone or grit.
M: Routes at Alter Rock. Onsighted a bunch of stuff up to (soft) 6c+, tried a 7a+ but it had a stopper move at three quarters height. Not feeling the psyche indoors at all, just couldn't be bothered to work at it, or anything else. Only two overhanging routes in the low/mid 7s at Derby at the moment, and they are both crap.
T: Nothing, shattered for some reason
W: Fingerboard session, mostly focussing on repeaters
T: Just 5 mins chin-ups, managed 55
F: Nothing - mate's 30th birthday bash. 3 course dinner and lots of booze.
S: Resting/recuperation/comfort eating after the night before
S: Beeston Tor with Ali. Really good day today - Ali did Nocturne p1 and The Thorn, I did Deaf Dove and The Beest. A few sprinklings of drizzle here and there, and the odd damp pocket, but overall the rock stayed very dry, so well worth taking a risk with the weather! Was chuffed with The Beest as I led both pitches, which are both worth E3 in their own right, and the 6a crux felt pretty straightforward - gives me a lot more confidence to try other UK 6a trad routes. Really awesome route too, especially pitch 2.
Overall, training-wise it was a pretty-poor week (felt quite tired in the evenings) and I ate / drank a lot of on Friday / Saturday, but happy as had another really good day out climbing trad today. I'm completely ignoring by STG by climbing on limestone all the time, but hey who cares! :) I think rocktype will just be determined by who Im climbing with the next few weeks, then once its warmer it'll all be lime.
That's sad to hear!
Alex is super strong - you just need to look at his garage to see where this came from! He will be really motivational, as he put a lot of hard work in, and he's been rewarded with some very hard ascents.
We all get motivated by different things and it took a major kick up my arse for me to sort myself out. Im sure you'll do fine though.
Have a successful year. Horrendous start so it can only get better!
Oh, and I really need to do some calf exercises. I've said this the last 3 weeks and thought it again today. Calf pump is as likely to make me fall off as arm pump at the moment. Any recommendations other than just standing on the edge of a step? Don't tell me to go winter climbing please :)
Good luck with it all mate. You never know, you might find yourself back here keen to write stuff down again in a couple of years like I did :)
F-Short bouldering session.
Very psyched at the moment. Can't decided whether to go to Gorge to loups at Whitsun or malham/kilnsey for a week.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st
Fell run/proper long run (Y), climbing session (Y), 2 core sessions (1), 7 ITB Stretches (2), Swim/Gym session (N)
Weight - 12st (1lbs gain)
M - Rest
T - ITB stretch
W - Climbing (1.5hr at wall)
T - ITB stretch
F - Core
S - Rest
S - 18km run
Been an ok week, made the most of a busy week. Got a decent run in and a good climbing session. Diet isn't going so well, but hopefully I'll be able to turn it around this week. Fingers crossed I'll make it outside soon. Be nice. All you folks are making me very jealous with all your climbing holidays.
Next weeks goals
Long run, climbing session, gym/swim, 5 ITB stretches, 3 core sessions
Well done for continuing to climb on the lefthand side of the catwalk yesterday; I couldn't face the wind driven rain and biting wind!
As for Mescalito being 8a; maybe at a softly graded crag in Spain, but not Yorkshire! It is, however one of my favourite routes at Malham. Enjoy!
mescalito has drawn me in... i think the 8a thing might be about a short arse perspective with one particular move i was discussing with this bloke.. but that doesn't mean it warrants 8a overall... i'd be very happy with a 7c+.. infact over the moon with it.. if/when it happens :o)
Thanks grubes. I was back at work but only for 2 days. Bonus!
STG (Summer 2013): 7b at Malham or Kilnsey, trad E1s and look at E2.
MTG (Autumn 2013): Something good in Spain: maybe 7a flash, 7b RP or 7c RP.
LTG: not sure
Tues: crap visit to craig y longridge. Confirmed my suspicions that I am not a boulderer and I do not like being cold.
Wed: local 4.8 mile trail run. 300m ascent.
Thurs: Malham. Top roped Space Race three times.
Fri: 10.9 mile trial run over Lords Seat, Brown Knowll, Kinder Low and Kinder Scout from Edale. 530m ascent.
Slow week. I'm now thinking I might have to RP Space Race just cos it's getting a bit embarassing to top rope it so many times. So far I've been messing around on it with no real expectation of leading it but on Thursday I actually tried to remember some of the moves and worked a bit harder. I'm now thinking I might have to RP it unless I can drag my partner to Kilnsey instead...
Yorks lime UKC meet is a good idea. I'm up for trad at Malham if anyone wants to partner up for that.
Thanks for doing the stats. Yorks Lime meet sounds like a good idea.
I didn't get on Gladiators traverse as it was sporting lots of seepage. Unfinished business in Santa Linya for May Bank Holiday includes: RP 7b & 7b+ warm-ups that spanked me, burly 8a, short&hard 8a+/b, stamina 8b (done 1st half at 8a/+) and investigate another couple of 8a+'s. Might need some strong coffee to fit that all into a long weekend!
Re-assessment of S & MTG's
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond
MTG (Spring 2013) - Host of 8a+'s at LPT, namely;
Melan-copout, Bad melans, Melanbeach, Para-trooper & Battle (original method) as fingery training for;
Melanchollie at LPT & Insomnia at Dinbren.
STG (by first May bank-holiday)
- Aero-power; Get pumped 3 times a week - possible return trip to Santa Linya early in May
- Lots of core and flexibility to counteract all over body-pump that Santa Linya induces
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) before May Bank Holiday (77.5kg and 6.9% currently)
- Re-hab ankle injuries & assess whether surgery is the answer or not (still awaiting scan).
- Continue finger boarding
- Lots of elbow eccentrics & sports massage - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise
The week just gone:
M - Rest & travel; 5 pints Pils & Sausage
T - Conference; 4 pints Weissbier & steak
W - Headache & workshops. Late home after flying from Stuttgart.
T - Hangar. Bouldering up to V6. Took a while to warm-up into pulling hard again after Spanish jug hauling.
F - Rest
S - I'm a bad, bad, bad, boy. Felt obliged to do DIY in exchange...
S - Early start at Malham. Consenting x2, Unjustifed x2 dog - YYFY moment: Tried different foothold on crux and went from 20% success to >80% success on that move :-) Clipping rail to top couple of times on TR. Then 6x TR laps on SS and brief go on crux of Bat Route with Zippy. Possible next project, but don't want to get sucked in yet.
really looking forward to longridge tomorrow afterw ork now. NOT!!!!
Yes, i was out at Malham yesterday but stayed on the righthand side of the catwalk to avoid soaking my belayer. I was on a damp Unjustified briefly before doing aero-cap laps on Something Stupid.
The great thing i liked about Mescalito, was that for me it was a pure stamina challenge. There were no particular crux moves and i could feel progress with each session. My redpoint efforts getting higher and higher up the crag until finally i found myself shaking out for 10min of the ledge and making a memorable finish with the long traverse out left.
ha ha well it should be a bit warmer so at least you won't be cold! And if ER and Paul are there you'll get some good beta :-)
chocolate incentive on space race could work very well... But really I just need to MTFU.
i'm feeling progress with each session on mescalito but i feel like i am having to pull hard for some moves... the footwork seems so intricate, i made slight alterations lower down to what i was doing and it instantly took the need to pull as hard away. looking forward to the challenge :o)
good effort on unjustified... very exciting!!
i'll bring chocolate on saturday.. i want mr kipling fondant fancies for mescalito
Erm, only beta I can provide is unless falling off and standing round sulking beta.
mr kipling fondant fancies, pure sugar... joy. Ages since I had one of those!
Cams not claimed - I now have a nice set of small sizes!
Managed to do something most days this week, but the Friday habit cost 2 days in the end!
M: Circuits and fingerboard
T: 8k road(ish) run, fairly slow and nearly killed Mike! 43ish mins
W: Played on the Marlborough bridge traverse again, making progress, fun session.
T: 8k trail run, muddy and hilly route, 38.27
F: Too much gin
S: Tried to find dry, non disintegrating sandstone, failed.
Not overly inspired by southern sandstone, must be an acquired taste.
Got a lot of work to do if I want <30min 8k by 19th May - need to work on speed, endurance seems ok for now...any tips?
I might be at CyL tomorrow afternoon/evening too. It'll be my first trip, but i'm going with an ex-regular/local so hopefully will have some beta shown to me too.
See you there.
MKFF are on offer at the local co op!!
What's the bolting like on Mescalito? I need a catwalk project (Raindogs is just a pipe-dream given my pitiful power-stamina) and that might fit the bill. The start of New Dawn puts me off (I'd only get a few goes each session before my power would fade too much) and the traverse makes working it a bit unpleasant. Something straighter even if it is harder has more appeal.
check out the lakes bloc topo (its free) also go to their website it is good!
Not sure what grade you are lookig at but it looks like there is loads of stuff V0-V7 including a few traverses in the V4/5 range.
Nice stamina work out?
by teh look of some of teh traverses it looks like it will hopefully offer some power as well as stamina workouts..
I think you must have confused me with another Luke - unless the hard moves are rendered trivial by lank!
A love of CYL is my secret shame - I think it's a great place but you have to put in some work to get the benefit: get au-fait with the various V4-5 sub-traverses (Tarot Plain, Cruel Country, Gruts, Mr Skin etc). After that, you can spend sessions doing links and laps of the sub-traverses: refining beta and smoothing sequences. Then even those days when you are too knackered to achieve anything new feel worthwhile - small progress in the cause of the larger links. The unrelenting steep burliness is a boon too - can get utterly destroyed by a short session.
Luke, the bolting on mescalito is fine. The start is hardish (though nothing like new dawn), then it's kinda a couple of boulder problems to where you meet new dawn at ledgey jug thing. Then a heartbreaking, weird technical finish. Its more enjoyable to climb than new dawn (well it is for a shortarse like me who cannot do the first bit of new dawn), but the end is defo a bit harder. Mescalito seemed a tiny bit harder to me than herbie. I've heard people say mescalito is easy 7c+ tho, and easier than New Dawn.
Though I didn't actually end up ticking Mescalito and now sit here with a back injury from bloody trad climbing while everyone sounds like they are having muchos fun on the limestone sport! Depressing.
Oh and here's a link to the CYL wiki:
If you do get into the delights of sideways shuffling, you can download the "Traverses Topo" from there. It is a simple schematic showing how the sub-traverses combine into route equivalent links (my own little contribution to the cult of CYL).
Thanks very much for taking on FC again Grubes.
Haven't been posting on FC for a few weeks. Partly this is because I've had a chest infection (on second round of anti-biotics now :( ) and also because it's not quite what I'm looking for - there's a lot of chatter on here that I feel would be best on another thread or really in an email. In short, it's a bit cliquey, and to its detriment.
Anyhow, here's a quick rundown of the last few weeks.
Mon - Thurs Feeling a bit rubbish, drove to Pembroke.
Fri First trad climbs of year at Mother Carey's. Bit rusty!
Sat Climbing at Crikmail point. Did a nice straightforward HVS.
Sun A couple of routes at St Govans, led another HVS before driving back to London.
Great to get out on rock again, I wanted to do a couple of HVSs in the weekend and did so, good to be laying the foundations.
W: A bit of bouldering
F: Routes at WW. 6a, 6b, 6c (o/s), 7b (4 falls/rests), same 7b again (2 falls/rests) followed immediately by 5+, first half of 6c followed by second half of 6b+ (two falls, pumped senseless by the top).
S: WW routes. 6a, 6b, 7a (one fall at last move), 6c+ (one fall, then redpointed), 6c (flash)
Quite a good week, despite being wracked with coughing fits which should hopefully begin to abate! Due to illness I've been doing very little for the last six weeks, but it does seem to be true that ticking over can keep you at a decent level, ready for when you're good to go again.
Need to get doing some stamina training now.
Id like to come to a yorks lime meet if its on a weekend I can make (not sure about the 21-23 June as its my father in law's birthday, and ive avoided the last few times my wife went to see him, so i might be away with them) and would be well up for malham trad. Especially keen for things on the terrace.
Anyway, personally I'll try tone it down a little as what begins as a comment of motivation and admiration to another poster (which is half the point of the thread) can quickly turn into chat amongst a few.
Get well soon though :)
STG: Stick to the training plan.
LTG(2013): Redpoint sport 7b, 1 e3, 1 hard e2.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Fat %: 11
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF, using core to reduce strain on fingers (maybe).
Mon: Torrs -trying bionics low traverse & failing.
Tue: Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
Thu: Push-ups(63), Pull-ups(33), Back(weights).
Sat: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters.
Sun: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters.
I keep missing the core sessions on the training plan. The 4x4 training has been terrible, I've dropped a grade & still not managing a set. I'm gonna move on next week because I think I need to do a lot more problems/routes rather than just train but I'll prioritize @ least 1 4x4 session a week. The weight sessions weren't good either. I hope this is just apathy & not old age....
Plan for next week:
- 4x4 -1 set.
- ARC -3 set.
- Repeaters -1 set.
- Bouldering -3 sessions.
- Core -2 sets.
- Weights -2 sessions.
Naturally, as this is an Internet forum, I'm going to disagree with you.
I find the individual comments on routes or performances the best bit of fit club, otherwise it'd just be a list of what everyone did with no useful help, encouragement, beta etc.
I've met and climbed with quite a few fitclubbers which is why the chat can get personal but again, I think this is a positive not negative. I wouldn't have had those great days out with psyched climbers if it wasn't for fitclub.
Hi, was just thinking that you guys could be the help I need to get the most out of training and to help me reach my pathetic climbing goals!
Weigh 11.75 stones or thereabouts (too much)
Started climbing Nov 2011 but really only been serious about it since Nov 2012 when new wall opened.
Getting outside in a small, northern, wet, cold place is not easy....
In recent weeks have been bouldering or climbing indoors every day.
Just back from two weeks in Siurana which was awesome but as my first real outside sports climbing adventure (the very small quarry with 13 routes in Orkney doesn't count) was pretty tough. Now I am home I am full of enthusiasm and psyche and want to make sure I get the most out of that with whatever I do next.
I'm afraid my best onsight grade in Siurana was a very lowly 4+ and 5 for flash. I dogged my way up a few 5+ but they were hard! I also did a fair bit of donkeying..... I don't think I had ever onsighted anything in my life before though so an achievement in itself I think (maybe).....
Anyway, this leads us to being home and what to do next....
Facilities available: Small but new climbing wall, small bouldering cave. Bouldering cave open every day, wall much more limited and all sessions bunched together.
-Learn to lead low grade trad
-Onsight 6a outdoors (maybe onsight 5+ and RP 6a more realistic)
-Go to Europe with my van for 2 or three weeks in summer (Font and somewhere else for sport)
-Find some friends for the above
-Go to Kalymos in the winter, possibly for Xmas....
-Loose 2 stone to enable all of the above
Trying hard to get back into real life today, there is a public session on tonight but I am doing the washing and feeling sleepy and now wondering how best to use the facilities we have to achieve the things I want to achieve......
Looking forward to sharing my donkeying exploits with you over the next few months.
I have been without internet for 3 days.
Even though i have bene ill i have achieved more ( none exercise wise ) than in a normal week. I never knew you could fit so much in a day.
Sod all to report this week except 3 days on the sofa where it hurt to open my eyes and my wife took herself off to the spare room due to my whinging during the night.
Any thoughts of a turbo trainer session went out of the window so that will have to be when i get back from the UK.
Went for a 20 ish minute jog today and tried 50 in 5 ( 44 only ) and did some antagonist work.Feeling OK so this weeks targets are:
1) Find out current weight and body fat
2) Find weighted hangs level
3) Find fingerboard workout level
4) 20k bike ride and time
5) Maybe 5k time trial
These are not all going to be true 'max' level workouts or i'd be knackered but i just want to see where i am up to.
Any of these may be dropped very quickly if i actually get chance to touch some rock.
Sean, I know what you mean about the chatter, but I suspect those involved get a fair bit out of it. Coming from near London with no local crag means we miss out on a local scene and the banter which goes with.
Not great training wise, but started trying harder routes indoors again.
Failed to run or FB at all. A few pull ups through the week though.
Tues: Indoors leading - tried the hard blacks. It's so reach dependant, but vaguely possible! I'll try it again this week, but may give up on it after a time, or put an extra hold in so its less height-ist (and therefore easier)..
Sun: Outdoors trad, yay! For those with safe E3 grit on their radar, Boulevard at Laurencefield is a call (Billy Whiz was wet). I rested on it once, and whimped my way through the rest of it. But it is a good, challenging route and well protected. I think it'll go 2nd time round clean.
My issue was the head, got gear fear and couldn't shake it off, so ended up placing about a dozen runners in 4-5 meters, whilst getting pumped. they were all solid too..
This week: run once, fb once, lead once outside once.
Cheers grubes. Would be keen for yorks limestone, end of June should work ok as far as I know. I'm not strong enough to get on any Malham-esque sport though.
Pretty good week, though a useless weekend. Bike commuting every day took it out of me and I spent most of the week more tired than I felt I should be. Last week's goals:
2 x fingerboard and core -tick except for one core
1 x fingerboard stamina -fail
1 x wall, push myself to falling on a route -tick, ish.
3 x runs -tick
Get those race entries in -Rab MM is entered.
After work Baildon VS's if the weather co-operates -it didn't
M: Bike commute. Core session - really good! Made it through the full session much more easily than usual (I use a youtube one) and even managed 3 hindu pushups (never done more than 1 before) and 10 regular pushups (5 max usually). Didn't even hurt the next day :-)
T: Bike commute with fun bits on way home. Wandered to Shipley Glen in the evening, only climbed one problem (4b) before dark though. Short fingerboard sesh.
W: Short fingerboard sesh. Bike commute. Lunchtime run, 4.8km, 25:30 - a little faster than usual :)
T: Bike commute. 3.8km run, 18mins.
F: Bike commute one work only. Experimented with hill reps at lunchtime, few mins jog to the hill then 4 reps. 1:25, 1:33, 1:36, 1:34. Went out too fast on the first one and had to walk the end of it but it was still fastest. Ran the rest. Felt like puking at the top of each (possibly more due to the jalapeno humous beforehand than the hill).
Almscliff after work but only messed around a bit and climbed one easy problem. Last minute cragging meant I didn't too the core and fingerboard planned - too tired once home.
S: Attermire. I led Matador (VS 4c) - took a while to commit to the first few moves as the gear wasn't great, ok above that. I'd forgetten how fiddly gear is on lst, didn't feel too confident in my placements at all and spent too much time placing too much as a result. Bailed up a Diff on the upper tier as it was freezing... then it rained. Not the best day's climbing.
S: Preston wall. Warmed up then did a couple of 6a's on the main wall, 6a+, got on a 6b+ purely as it would make me fall - it didn't! I had one take (ok, slumped onto the bolt then carried on) and topped it - chuffed, but incredibly soft-touch for 6b+. Got on the adjacent 6c to take the falls but had to cheat my way up the first 2 clips then failed to hold on long enough to get above the bolts at all. So no real falls. Tried a 6b but too tired. TR'd a couple of feature routes for old times sakes (6b+ & 6c+, neither clean).
This week's goals:
2 x fingerboard & core
1 x fingerboard stamina (no time for wall)
3 x runs
1 x decent ride (plus commutes)
I'm off to Switzerland on Sat ski touring, so won't be posting next weekend.
STG: Climb F8a - Need the weather to comply this weekend.
Cheers, pretty happy with that. Didn't quite manage as much this week but still managed a couple of rides plus some highballing / abseiling.
Gain British Cycling Mountain Bike Leader L2 award (training in two weeks).
Gain ML Summer award (filling up logbook ready for training, so get in touch if you want to get out!).
Consolidate seconding experience (trad) including some mountain multi-pitch.
Lead some D/VDiffs this year including some mountain multi-pitch, and choose some goal routes.
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!).
Learn to ski.
If anyone is interested in how I beat, and still working with, my fear of heights and falling, I have written quite a lot about it on my blog. This post pretty much sums it up: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/fear-of-heights-conquered/ and this one adds to it: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/my-pledge/
T: 15km Mountain bike ride (0:45:34 -- singlespeed)
W: 15km Mountain bike ride (0:36:18 -- singlespeed) -- blitzed my previous time!
S: Highballing and practicing abseiling in the Churnet quarrys
S: Highballing in the Churnet quarrys
Ok you're on for trad at Malham. If you can't make it for the UKC meet and want to go for it another weekend just let me know, I'm always keen and looking for weekend trad partners.
Hi Mary. Welcome on board. Don't worry about grades, one of the things I like about climbing is that it doesn't matter what grade you climb, there's always someone doing better/worse/the same. Sounds like you had a good trip to Siurana. I've not been but I'm really keen to go. Got a week booked there in Autumn. Can't wait!
STG - F7b+ and Font 7A+
MTG - F7c and Font 7B (End of 2013)
LTG - F8a and Font 7B+ (Next few years)
Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Trevor Rocks - Took girlfriend out to top rope, she's has a really bad fear of heights even on top rope, put 2 top ropes up on two F4's. Was too cold for her and she got to freaked out. Will get her out again when it's warmer. On-sighted a F6b and F6c also.
Wednesday - Feet on Fingerboarding -
2 x (30 moves 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 5 minutes)
3 x (40 moves 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 5 minutes)
Thursday - Feet on Fingerboarding -
5 x (40 moves 2 mins rest x 4 - Rest 6 minutes)
Friday - Deadhangs
20mm edge - Half crimp (10 secs x 5)
8mm edge - Full crimp (5 secs x 5)
2.5kg - 10 secs, 5kg - 10 sec, 7.5kg - 10 secs - 3 minutes rest between.
10kg 5 hangs with 3 minutes rest between - 6 sec, 8 sec, 8 sec, 10 sec, 10 sec (Had to dig deep on last hang)
Saturday - Llanddulas - Hooked up with Chris Doyle and Spidey - Flashed a F6a+ for a warm up and dogged up Pump Action (F7a) to get the clips in, it rained and soaked the top of the route, had to sack it off - dispair!
Headed up to the main cave area and the guys recommended El Tigre (F7b) which was dry. Not expecting to get close in a session I dogged up it, surprisingly seemed very doable. Insanely technical through the first 2 bolts, vertical wall with tiny holds (Suites me). Steep, pumpy but easier upper section.
1 RP - Rubbish, fell off getting confused on the crux, hung around to work out better foot beta.
2 RP - Better but still not 100% on beta - sorted this (again!), started to feel tired but seeing Spidey and Chris repeat it got me psyched.
3 RP - Went without a hitch, got into this "Zone" where I just flowed through the moves without over thinking. I love moments like this only had this happen once before when I successfully redpointed my first 7a+ last year. Came back round once I'd clipped the chains...
Psyched to get a 7b in a session! Keen to get back to Dulas, great crag.
Need to make sure I know my beta 100% before trying to redpoint. Tactics have gone a bit rubbish after a winter of no rope!
Sunday - Rest - Son ill again.
Hi Ally, Psyched to see someones interested in Dinbren! It's my local crag and I spend a lot of time there. Let me know when you're down, always keen for a session. Would be inspiring to watch someone on Insomnia too!
Good luck with your new goals.
A bit of a shame to see you go because you motivate others in turn.
See ya around!
> I find the individual comments on routes or performances the best bit of fit club, otherwise it'd just be a list of what everyone did with no useful help, encouragement, beta etc.
I enjoy comments on routes etc but don't think this is the place for endless discussions of beta for half a dozen routes at Malham.
Likewise, I've met climbers from here and it's great. But I still think there are a lot of postings on here which could be done elsewhere, or via email.
Mate went back borrowed my rope was stood on a ledge and was just about to clip chain when the ledge became a fridge size block hurtling to his belayer block smashed in half just above belayer head and both narrowly missed the belayer mate took a 10m lob ...
Dullas became a low priority of crags to visit
oh and nice fingerboarding but be very careful of the full crimp fingerboarding 6-8 weeks off for a pulley would be a nightmare when your on form
And well done with the 7b in a session time for a 7c project?
Very strange hearing Dulas being the subject of loose rock... Do you remember which route/routes?
The long time established stuff i.e Forgotten Sun Area and Upper Cave Area is solid, not so sure about the newer low grade stuff i've heard some of this is chosy in places, especially on the left side of the Upper cave.
The old routes that i've been on are some of the best of the grade's in the area:
Peral From the Shell 6c+** (Three star route in my eyes)
El Tigre 7b*
Pump Action 7a*
All solid and brilliant!
I'd give it a second chance if you're in the area bud.
Cheers about the 7b, There alot of 7b's and 7b+'s around i'd like to get on. I'm not sure if i'd be strong enough to climb a UK 7c yet, I'm only bouldering up to V6. I should just get on one I guess...!
If you get the power endurance and aerobic endurance to support it V6 should be more than enough for 7c. I'm hoping that it''ll be enough for 8a after all!
well I thought that was what this forum was partly for and don't intend on changing that really... nothing wrong with a bit of obsessive thinking and behaviour when working projects :o) ...
for the record there are also additional emails, texts, discussions that go into more detail... to prevent clogging the forum up. some people (ER) know every move of every 7a-7b at malham
That's interesting to know! I'd like to think I could get up a 7c with some PE and Aerobic training.
I know it's awkward to talk boulder grades to route grades but i've always presumed you needed to be bouldering about V7 to get up a F7c. Theres a couple of 8a's around here (at Dinbren) that i've heard broken down as:
Orgasmatron F8a - V9 into a F7a
Gwennan F8a - V8 into V6 into F6c
Both look and sound nails!
Would be interesting to know what other people think about this.
it was more I had this in mind for you http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17793.0 ... Its one I want to try when I am at that or near that level
That's a very good point and the beauty of redpointing. I'm sure if I worked one for as long as it took it would come together. Positive thinking!
The start of Orgasmatron is so hard.
I've fallen off the the finishing holds of Elite Syncopations.
Try Dyperspace for 7c? I liked it. V6 into V4ish?
Also Wirral Whip 7c+ at Llandulas was good. Apparently you can now link it from the next route and get 8a? That's like a hanging v8.
Dinbren is very bouldery. Even though there are usually only 4 bolts - I usually find clipping as hard as most of the moves.
Admittedly I'm not Other People but based on what I've done
Everyday Lives (7c) at Cheddar is maybe V5/6 (based on what other folk have said) into 7a+ ish.
I seem to remember Nick said that Chiselling the dragon (7c) at Malham is similar sort of breakdown
Those are both quite bouldery. I'd dread to think how easy the crux of Almost Me would be at the wall, and if I had to guess I'd say Circus, Circus at Cheddar was maybe V4/5 (based on it being harder than higginsons scar) but then I'm rubbish on slopers. That's after maybe 7b or something ground and then a shakeout.
What's Elite like? I've heard it's hard for 8a, it would eventually be a great project for me as it's so close to home.
The Mudjekeewis/Wirral link "Nanabozho" was done by Doylo last year, looks nails!
AJM: Cheers, seeing them boulder grades for 7c's has got me keen for more PE training!
Release the Hounds looks amazing. 2 of my mates are keen for it so I guess i'll probably end up on it at some point. The start looks like a receipe for pumped forearms!
> I seem to remember Nick said that Chiselling the dragon (7c) at Malham is similar sort of breakdown
Seems about right to me.
I did my first f8a (Righthand man) before I'd ever climbed v7 and did my one and only 8b when i was struggling and failing miserably on v8's.
Thinking you need to be stronger to climb the next sport grade up is a frequent mistake in my opinion.
v6 power should easily get you up 7c; admittedly there are lots of bouldery 7c's you might struggle on, but a stamina 7c won't have anything as hard as v6.
An extreme example might be Occident at Terredets, or Asaltinbankis/tenura link in Santa Linya; no sequences harder than v3, but an awful lot of them!
I can confirm Nanabozho IS nails
Elite is supposedly soft for 8a going on what most people say, but I got wholeheartedly spanked on my one and only session on it. I should go back!
Release the hounds is SUPERB. The powerful nature of he start can be eased with cunning heel hooks/tension tricks. It can feel nails if the conditions are poor though. You need a good breeze to keep things crisp.
What 7as have you tried in the Churnet? Theres soe good ones about, ive done a small number so might be able to help provide beta...
Some great insight there Ally, cheers!
Looks like I'll be getting on some 7c's this year for sure!
Let me know when you (or anyone else here) hit Dinbren, will be keen to meet up.
I remember during TomPRs stint posting here that he had spent a bit of time watching the French junior team and there were some guys there who were bouldering in the V6-8 sort of region and the best of them were onsighting 8a+. Which puts things in perspective for me!
I also remember a comment on UKB that V8 could deliver you 8a if you were a boulderer on some Rubicon or Tor special or up to 8b+ or so if you had the energy systems to support it.
Whetheir you push your grade easiest by getting stronger, fitter, technically better, more tactical or whatever depeends on which is your biggest weweakness. Agree that more people think their weakness is strength than is probably the case.
Please advise before I break myself.
As long as you warm up and keep your elbows bent that sounds fine.
There are many different ideas on reps and timings, I don't think they matter too much as long as you're trying hard ;)
Most people stick to these two:
Classic repeaters: 7s on/3s off for a minute
Max deadhangs: Smallest hold you can hang 8-12s, long rest
Climbing Thursday, lost ten pounds since my last indoors session so wonder how i'll do...
ten pounds is a lot, you'll be floating!
After much ruminating and a crappy start to the year, Im going for the 7a after all; arranged a few indoor sessions, feeling positive and summer is on the way. :)
Agree with the 7c boulder discussion in so far as there's nothing on the 7c I did that would class as V6, the difficulty comes in doing what would probably be a V3 in isolation after a sustained sequence of climbing 18m up a route.
there is such a variety of routes and crags you can't really rule out certain grades based on a single element of climbing (such as power). I know plenty weaker than me who have done numerous 8a's, it's all about finding something to suit your style (when breaking into a new grade).
Get to it!
It's in writing now, we'll accept nothing less than 7a by the end of the year.
Oh.... wait... Did I just say that out loud?!
Would also agree re: boulder grades on F7c routes. The only one Ive done (Stone the Loach) is fairly short as they go, probably consitutes something like a short, vertical F6c+ in to a steep V4/5 sequence for a few moves, then maybe F7a/+ to the top. I think a F7c with a V6 crux would be very rare.
> Please advise before I break myself.
Sounds ok to start but by handing bigger holds for a long time (as you definitely are doing) you are straining your whole upper body more relative to your fingers than if you were doing shorter hangs on smaller holds. Once you are warmed up each time I would move to some smaller holds and start working on them. You won't see huge gains IMHO from hanging on the jugs. Perhaps just move to some medium-large crimps or slopers (what board do you have?) and reduce the hang durations to 10 seconds rather than 20.
Ill also look at reducing my hang time and making the sets shorter but more frequent.
Hi Mary and welcome. Don't think your climbing level is pathetic, we were all there once. I'd say 5 is pretty good for a first outdoor trip, it's very different from indoors! Having also been a rather overweight climber I think you'll be amazed how much difference it will make to lose some weight, I would say if you can lose weight and just climb quite a lot you will have your 6a no problems. As a relative newcomer to climbing I would say just climb as much as possible on anything you get the chance, I think you'll see improvements really quickly. You have a great looking set of goals there too.
Jamming Dodger, yay, 7a by October! 10bs down, 5lb more to go, fingerboarding all planned, you're away! I'm a relative newbie to fingerboarding too. I usually do about 3 sets of max 10s hang, 10s rest on anything I can hold onto for more than a couple of seconds (which is not all that much!) with a couple of mins rest between sets. Then a 10ish min rest. Then 6x(7s hang, 3s rest) on holds which I stand a chance of holding for the 7s. Some bent arm hangs if I am feeling up to it. 2-3 min rest between holds. It seems to be helping me though I'm sure it's not an optimal routine.
Ha ha no of course not, just a long-standing poster who prefered FC a little while ago.
I've no problems with the odd questions about beta, the questions such as today's one on how long to deadhang for are (to my mind) spot on what FC should be about.
Questions such as "how hard to boulder for 7b/7c/8a etc" and "What's the best 7c at Malham" should be separate threads, imho. It would probably be to the benefit of the posters, too, potentially pulling in a wider variety of people to give answers.
Things change, people come and go, there's always the OC ;)
> Oh.... wait... Did I just say that out loud?!
You did. We all heard. Get to it!
sounds like you're ticking all of your objectives...did you say a while ago you'd got a cross coutry bike? how's that going in terms of helping with your weight and fitness?
Excuse me lady but actually there were only THREE mats piled up! And as you well know it was only so we could reach the holds that normal sized people would have no trouble getting to. Not cheating in any way shape or form. Nope.
Its a cyclocross bike; ive owned it for 5 years but its just been re-sprayed. Dont be misled though, its sole function since I bought it has been a road bike. It was bought to do LEJOG. But now I have a road bike as well so its now a wet weather bike.
I think the weight loss is a result of a shitty start to the year, more cycling (cause Im not able to drive right now), generally feeling more motivated, eating less and swimming. Its all sort of fallen together in recent weeks. Pretty much there with the weight now, but I think an extra 5lb will keep me on the right side of target. I have no distractions now so hopefully this is the start of a good year.
Welcome to FitClub Mary; hope you get as much out of it as we all do.
i considered getting one of those cyclocross bikes as we have access to alot of hills where we live which aren't that technical, either a cyclocross or a hard tail MTB but i opted for a road bike and will still use my full suspension for off road stuff.. but i'd like a hard tail too... was going to go up to grizedale forest over the easter weekend as i heard they were selling heir last year's hire bikes (mostly hardtails) but couldn't get over there.
i think biking (if you work hard)really burns alot of energy.. so i good way for you to shift any weight.. by the sounds of it though it looks like you're almost at your desired weight and hopefully you'll just be able to continue training amd climbimng without being so mindful about weight?
Made the move this week to get climbing regularly again so 7a now seems feasible.
Nope, we didn't make it. High winds meant my friends rope-access job was cancelled, so we stayed local to Chester. Another time maybe.
M - short(ish) session at Biscuit Factory - fingerboard session then got sucked into trying the evil sloper problem - made a wee bit of progress
T - Run into work - 6.5 miles, 53? mins
W - Biscuit Factory - didn't really get many problems done but tried really hard, particularly on the evil sloper problem which didn't make much more progress on. One more move need to work out then link it
T - Street O - felt good and a lot fitter than previous months - the running has definitely been paying off! Not sure my route choice was the best (really well planned event) but was within 10 points of the super-fast female leader
F - nothing
S - nothing - picked up car - I have wheels!
S - Beeston Tor with Si dH - first trad for a long time... Warmed up leading the VS pitch to the start of Si's route. Seconded him on the E2 (lovely climbing), then led the top pitch of The Thorn (HVS). Hung around on the crux at which point the solid feeling/looking jug broke, bounced off helmet and dropped 20m to the ground. Fortunately there was no one below and I managed to hang off my left arm so didn't have to test the pegs (and keep the clean tick!). Climbing felt easy but faffed with gear a bit. Then seconded Si on the two E3 pitches of the Beest - managed to second both clean (first time I've tried E3!) which was pleased with. Good day out.
Want to do more trad this summer, and if I pick the right crag, theoretically E1/2 should be doable...if I can get my head in gear. Also need to practice with placing gear a bit more - Si was really fluid and quick with this whereas I faffed a lot!
Seem to remember seeing something about a Yorkshier meet at some point? May be up for bank holiday weekend at end May if you northern lot don't escape elsewhere for the 3 days.
But, on the bright side I went climbing and had a really good time, 3 hr+ session. New partner but I felt safe as houses (climbing and belaying), led up to 6a (I dogged the 6a cause my arms were pretty tired by that point) but did a few 5+s clean on lead, which I know is rubbish, but my point is, this is only one grade down from what I was leading before I stopped climbing. And way better than what I was dragging my fat arse up a few weeks ago in Northampton. So either the Pinnacle's grading is way harder, or losing weight and being on lead rather than toproping is the magic formula for me. Looks like ive got a new regular partner with another potential new one on Sunday. Yay!
Then I went swimming. Body is a temple. Goodnight all :)
Nice one :-)
I lost 10kgs a few years ago and went from plodding in the low 6's to plodding in the low 7's.
All else being equal ( i.e. your technique isn't like a donkey on roller skates and the mental side is OK ) it's a massive boost if you shift a significant amount.
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