/ Finger strength...
Any guidance/advice/things to consider would be most appreciated.
It might be useful to fill out your profile. If you climb V10 and are struggling to improve further despite lots of specific training, that's a bit different to if you started climbing last year and have never done any bouldering.
Do you do much indoor bouldering? That's where I got the finger-strength I have from (which is enough to get me up the odd crimpy font 7a).
I much prefer jugs. Any crimpers and my fingers feel like butter.
Bring on the slating... ;)
I reckon a bit of bouldering is the way forward. Crimpy bouldering is a fun way to gain finger strength, much more effective than doing routes because you're doing harder moves (but less of them of course). It's also excellent for developing technique.
Be warned though, finger strength takes a while to build up and it can be quite easy to hurt yourself if you overdo cimping down hard on tiny holds.
Totally agree, I use my fingerboard and only climbed for just over a year (properly)
Any type of gains need to be done in moderation. Don't see what all the fuss is about.
Light short training sessions, building up every month.
There's no big issue about having a fingerboard as a beginner. Maybe people are confusing it with a campus board?
> Any type of gains need to be done in moderation. Don't see what all the fuss is about.
Now define 'moderation' in the context of enough effort to make a gain.
Once you've done that, tell me how you know for sure.
Gains have to be made in some way, either by climbing or using a finger board carefully, it's really not that complicated.
Injuries in sports will obviously always happen. Having a healthy diet, and building your self up gradually in your training and climbing isn't hard.
I train on a finger board, by trying to simulate climbing in the gym, using a couple of footholds to switch between. And then I do a light just fingers session, no injuries yet, just aches the day after, like any other type of training
A wise and vastly better climber told me "if you think your fingers are weak then your footwork is crap, if you improve your footwork and still think they are weak then your shoulders and back arenīt strong enough"
Since when we measured our finger strength I was about 30% stronger than him but he climbs 8b and I donīt there is probably a lot of truth there!
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