Advice please - I am after really well protected Routes in the Peak on which to push my grade - have done alot of the classic VS routes on stanage (Heather Wall, Hargreaves Original, Ellis's Eliminate, Mississippi Buttress Direct, Hell Crack, Central Trinity - also the Mall at Millstone) and found them all fairly easy.
What I want to do is take the next step up as safely as I can without scaring myself to death !
Thinking along the lines of Goliath's Groove, Right Unconquerable (and poss left) Queersville etc
Also Bond St at Millstone
In reply to Ciderslider: terrazza crack is safe and on the hvs/E1 border, or if you're not overly keen on cracks how about flying buttress direct?
Jeepers creepers at high neb is very safe too.
They're all on the cusp of the grade and all protectable without too much trouble.
There's an hvs Ticklist for stanage in the logbooks , work through them and you'll be doing well. Good thing about grit at this grade is you can normally tell if its going to be bold when you're standing underneath it.
In reply to Ciderslider: queersville has a tricky little crux low down with awkward to place (well) gear. Ive seen a couple of falls from there and they were but quite nasty. Nothing broken but both climbers were shaken up.
The hard bit of Queersville is well protected, but there is a bold section below it where falling off would be a bad idea. It was one of my first HVSs and it isn't hard, it just requires you not to totally freak out.
Also at Stanage Lancashire Wall is right on the cusp of VS/HVS and pretty safe. Dover's Wall Route 2 is a good shout (although it requires a bit of willpower not to slink off right at the top). Goliath's Groove is easy if you can thrutch, but desperate if you can't (apparently) and you can protect it well if you have a reasonably largeish cam.
Your best bet, though, is to go to Millstone. There's loads of great HVSs and they're all pretty safe. Bond Street is probably the softest (assuming you're at least vaguely proficient at jamming). Great North Road, Great Portland Street, Lyon's Corner House and (apparently - I've not done it yet) Plexity are all three star, well-protected outings. There's the Embankment routes to go at afterwards if you fancy some well-protected E points.
Totally Safe doesn't exist of course (not that you necessarily meant to imply it does in your thread title). One thing to watch our for on Peak grit routes is that the ground is often far enough away to do serious damage if you hit it, but near enough that one or two pieces either ripping or skipped can make hitting it likely. I saw a terrible fall a few years ago off the 'totally safe' Left Unconquerable. The leader hadn't placed the obvious bomber gear in the crack before the crux, opting instead for a quickly placed Friend in the horizontal break, in part due to inexperience, it seemed, and in part because they were getting tired and rushing. They fell off, the gear in the break ripped, they fell out of my sight and I feared the worst. Thankfully they stopped a few feet off the ground.
So, moral of the story, safe routes aren't safe if you feel the urge to push on past good gear because of tiredness / place it poorly.
In reply to victim of mathematics:
the left hand variation to "Lyon's Corner House" that is mentioned as being well protected in one of the guides has lot rock / placements and doesn't 'look' that well protected now.
> (In reply to deacondeacon)
> C'mon man, Flying Buttress Direct is definitely not "very well protected".
There's good gear for every move, Yes it's commiting and unless you're a pretty strong climber you're going to struggle to reverse the move, but if you're competent at placing gear you'd have a job to hurt yourself.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Would really like a go at FBD but am worried that I might not have big enough balls (it's getting decent gear in that first break with the heel hook that scares me) would have no problems seconding, but to lead ??????
What about The Link ????
Also should I shout "take" "watch me " or "would you kindly take in please belayer" before I fall off ;-)
(sorry couldn't resist)
In reply to deacondeacon: Looking at it I just think for me it would be a head game - getting that/those cams in the first break (and then worrying that they would rip if I fell. Think I'm more than strong enough, just think I need to grow some.
But thanks anyway
I was just thinking of that one (and Congo Corner of course). I think the overhang is not much harder than the initial crack - particularly if you don't mind putting your weight on perfect hand jams. Although the top slab seems intimidating to me.
Superb Croton Oil at Rivelin had wonderful gear, but not Blizzard ridge. Nonsuch if you're feeling good is safe
Of course, there's Suicide Wall, which is safe, two pitches and possibly the best HVS in the Peak. Possibly E1 in one pitch.
In reply to Ciderslider: My Peak gritstone experience is very limited, but from what I've done I would say that Saul's Crack at the Roaches HVS 5a fits your criteria well. Protectable throughout and a quality line.
> (In reply to Ciderslider)
> Your best bet, though, is to go to Millstone. There's loads of great HVSs and they're all pretty safe. Bond Street is probably the softest (assuming you're at least vaguely proficient at jamming). Great North Road, Great Portland Street, Lyon's Corner House and (apparently - I've not done it yet) Plexity are all three star, well-protected outings. There's the Embankment routes to go at afterwards if you fancy some well-protected E points.
> Sorrels Sorrow is just about HVS, but involves a certain style. Lots o' gear though, and enormous fun.
The crux isn't very high though, and it'd be difficult to hang about to truly lace it. The offwidthy bit further up needs a big cam to be "totally safe".
Dexterity at Millstone has already been mentioned - lace the crack then eschew the 'cop-out' left hand finish. If you can jam the crux is at the top, if you can't it's crux all the way up! ;o)
If you want a really well protected roof route, give FBD a miss and try Roof Route at Rivelin - tough, but very well protected where it counts.
Nonsuch is pumpy and sustained, but it'll take all the gear you can throw at it if you have the stamina. As will Chequers Crack, at Froggatt. Pretty exhausting, but very safe indeed (which is just as well - it must be a contender for the most fallen off route in the Peak).
Would it be very unfair to mention The Vice (Stanage)? Horrific, but it is HVS/E1 and it is safe. (If you tape your hands up, to protect against blood loss. ;o)
> (In reply to Ciderslider)
> Just to correct the Eastern Grit bias of the thread:
> Joint Effort, HVS 5a, Staden (if it's not banned).
> Pocket Symphony, E1, Beeston (loads of threads).
> Yew Tree Wall, E1, Dovedale (lots of gear).
> Pebbledash, HVS, Roaches (safe).
> Rubberneck, HVS, Five Clouds (enough gear to start, then plenty)
> Slowhand, E1, Hen Cloud
> Safety Net. E1, Skyline
> Ocean Wall, E1, Standing Stones (take loads of cams around 0, 0.5, 1)
Most of these are good suggestions, Joint Effort perhaps the best. c. same standard as Cemetary Gates.
Yew Tree Wall, yes, lots of gear but the crux is 5c ...
Rubberneck - just as you describe - superb.
Safety Net ... the first half is technically hard and felt quite high ball. Then wonderful well protected finish.
Ocean Wall ... very hard ... but I suppose the gear is OK. Brilliant route but, seconding, it felt like a rather full-weight E2 to me.
Suicide Wall ticks all the boxes. Its hard HVS, well protected and the best route I can remember doing in the Peak, with the possible exception of The Sloth which is another obvious but fantastic HVS and much easier that it looks.
FBD is benchmark E1 in my opinion, the Tippler hard E1, The Link pretty easy E1 but can't remember the gear.
Link is pretty safe but very fall-offable as you go for the ledge... I cut the extender when I did this (fortunately not all the way through!). Ocean Wall has a bold start and is tricky to protect the start of the traverse unless you are tall. Queersville is also bold at the start. FBD is bold onsight for an HVS leader despite good pro, as its strenuous to place unless you have go-go-gadget arms and to add to the worry it sometimes pops out unexpectedly.
I'm a bit confused the OP is asking what he is ...just needs to look at the crack routes in the graded lists and go for it.
My HVS onsight count is pitiful so hopefully this will hold some weight - Suspect Intellect at Curbar. Short but more satisfying than many longer route. Safe but unquestionable at the grade. Then go and do Avalanche Wall afterward (I slumped on it, nice and safe, I berated myself for not taking the whipper)