/ Totally Safe HVS/E1
What I want to do is take the next step up as safely as I can without scaring myself to death !
Thinking along the lines of Goliath's Groove, Right Unconquerable (and poss left) Queersville etc
Also Bond St at Millstone
Theres a few other good HVS's there and some pretty hard VSs there to get your technique up. Definately worth a trip.
Went for the first time 2 weeks ago, I'm off there again tommorrow.
Jeepers creepers at high neb is very safe too.
They're all on the cusp of the grade and all protectable without too much trouble.
There's an hvs Ticklist for stanage in the logbooks , work through them and you'll be doing well. Good thing about grit at this grade is you can normally tell if its going to be bold when you're standing underneath it. :)
The start of queersville never struck me as that well protected.
Agony crack is well protected if you get all the gear in right and have an attentive belayer for the start.
Dovers Wall Route 2 also has good gear
Bond St and Great North Road are very well protected.
Flying buttress is the classic HVS/e1 stop gap for me
C'mon man, Flying Buttress Direct is definitely not "very well protected".
Agree Queersville's not terribly wp either.
As to the OP, any of the usual cracks will obviously do. Nothing that's *very* well protected but isn't a crack comes to mind.
The hard bit of Queersville is well protected, but there is a bold section below it where falling off would be a bad idea. It was one of my first HVSs and it isn't hard, it just requires you not to totally freak out.
Also at Stanage Lancashire Wall is right on the cusp of VS/HVS and pretty safe. Dover's Wall Route 2 is a good shout (although it requires a bit of willpower not to slink off right at the top). Goliath's Groove is easy if you can thrutch, but desperate if you can't (apparently) and you can protect it well if you have a reasonably largeish cam.
Your best bet, though, is to go to Millstone. There's loads of great HVSs and they're all pretty safe. Bond Street is probably the softest (assuming you're at least vaguely proficient at jamming). Great North Road, Great Portland Street, Lyon's Corner House and (apparently - I've not done it yet) Plexity are all three star, well-protected outings. There's the Embankment routes to go at afterwards if you fancy some well-protected E points.
Totally Safe doesn't exist of course (not that you necessarily meant to imply it does in your thread title). One thing to watch our for on Peak grit routes is that the ground is often far enough away to do serious damage if you hit it, but near enough that one or two pieces either ripping or skipped can make hitting it likely. I saw a terrible fall a few years ago off the 'totally safe' Left Unconquerable. The leader hadn't placed the obvious bomber gear in the crack before the crux, opting instead for a quickly placed Friend in the horizontal break, in part due to inexperience, it seemed, and in part because they were getting tired and rushing. They fell off, the gear in the break ripped, they fell out of my sight and I feared the worst. Thankfully they stopped a few feet off the ground.
So, moral of the story, safe routes aren't safe if you feel the urge to push on past good gear because of tiredness / place it poorly.
the left hand variation to "Lyon's Corner House" that is mentioned as being well protected in one of the guides has lot rock / placements and doesn't 'look' that well protected now.
Great Portland Street at HVS 5a/b
> C'mon man, Flying Buttress Direct is definitely not "very well protected".
There's good gear for every move, Yes it's commiting and unless you're a pretty strong climber you're going to struggle to reverse the move, but if you're competent at placing gear you'd have a job to hurt yourself.
What about The Link ????
Also should I shout "take" "watch me " or "would you kindly take in please belayer" before I fall off ;-)
(sorry couldn't resist)
But thanks anyway
Yeh, I was under the impression that you could build a bomb shelter just before the 2-3 move crux, then jugs - which sounds perfect for me.
Few E1's at Millstone where you could place gear every six inches if you wanted.
You indeed can, though it is a bit steep there and not that restful ...
I was just thinking of that one (and Congo Corner of course). I think the overhang is not much harder than the initial crack - particularly if you don't mind putting your weight on perfect hand jams. Although the top slab seems intimidating to me.
Superb Croton Oil at Rivelin had wonderful gear, but not Blizzard ridge. Nonsuch if you're feeling good is safe
Of course, there's Suicide Wall, which is safe, two pitches and possibly the best HVS in the Peak. Possibly E1 in one pitch.
Baron's Wall is safe and hard.
And no-one's ever fallen out of BAW's crawl
> Your best bet, though, is to go to Millstone. There's loads of great HVSs and they're all pretty safe. Bond Street is probably the softest (assuming you're at least vaguely proficient at jamming). Great North Road, Great Portland Street, Lyon's Corner House and (apparently - I've not done it yet) Plexity are all three star, well-protected outings. There's the Embankment routes to go at afterwards if you fancy some well-protected E points.
Oh yeah, Strapiombante is well safe, soft and not *that* cracky unlike almost all the other suggestions
FDB - from what I remember the cam is strenuous and a little blind to place. I don't remember whether you do it hanging from a heel or reaching
In my opinion, echoing John G, a route where one piece, placed in a pressing position, stands between you and disaster is never 'totally safe'.
I once saw someone fall off from above the roof and hurtle down in an inverted position, coming very close to the slab.
My opinion is that this route is not at all a good one to be pushing your grade on.
Sorrels Sorrow is just about HVS, but involves a certain style. Lots o' gear though, and enormous fun. And then there's the rest of the HVSs at Curbar!
ms intimidating to me.
> Superb Croton Oil at Rivelin had wonderful gear, but not Blizzard ridge. Nonsuch if you're feeling good is safe
Croton Oil is a good call, but I have no idea why people think Blizzard Ridge isn't well protected. You're never more than a meter or two above good gear. Nonsuch looks utterly horrendous, but safe.
> Of course, there's Suicide Wall, which is safe, two pitches and possibly the best HVS in the Peak. Possibly E1 in one pitch.
Never E1 in one pitch, since you can lie down in the Bower for as long as you like. Much better to do it in one, but no harder.
> Baron's Wall is safe and hard.
And VS in the new guide (!). And has desperate unprotected 5b/5c moves at a rather unpleasant height of the ground. I wouldn't recommend it to anybody, since it's not even particularly good.
I enjoyed Long Tall Sally? (Burbage Nth)
Unconquerables, Millstone cracks, Froggatt - Chequers Buttress, Todys Wall.
Gardoms - Moyers Buttress
But I'd give the best vote to Croton Oil!
Freddies Finale? Runs away cackling.....
Oh, it is. The boulder problem's OK, and the top crack is lovely.
I'd recommend Senility at Heptonstall followed by Grindley's Grunt then Thin Red Line.
Leaning Buttress Direct, Stanage, HVS 5b. Safe 5b moves off a ledge (may be run-out for the far-easier remainder).
Cave Arete, Stanage, HVS 5a/5b. Good gear.
Tody's Wall, Froggatt, HVS 5a. Gear at your waist for the hard move.
Chequers Buttress, Froggatt, HVS/E1 5b. Plenty of gear.
Avalanche Wall, Curbar, HVS-ish. Plenty of gear.
Maupassant, Curbar, HVS 5a. Plenty of gear.
Zapple, Yarncliffe, HVS
Good Friday, Stanage HVS. This feels a little bold, but is actually safe.
Valkyrie Froggatt, HVS. Plenty of gear.
Millsom's Minion Stanage, E1, pretty safe with cams.
Morrison's Redoubt Stanage, E1, if you can pluck up courage to make the first moves it is safe after that.
Strapiombante Froggatt, E1, Plenty of gear.
Mississippi Variant Direct, Stanage, E1, enough gear. One hard reachy bit.
Embankment 3 and 4, both E1, both have loads of gear.
I nearly suggested that, but the gear is below your feet when you're doing the crux. You're not likely to hurt yourself, but it's still more of a mental than a physical test at HVS.
Ha ha :)
Just to correct the Eastern Grit bias of the thread:
Joint Effort, HVS 5a, Staden (if it's not banned).
Pocket Symphony, E1, Beeston (loads of threads).
Yew Tree Wall, E1, Dovedale (lots of gear).
Pebbledash, HVS, Roaches (safe).
Rubberneck, HVS, Five Clouds (enough gear to start, then plenty)
Slowhand, E1, Hen Cloud
Safety Net. E1, Skyline
Ocean Wall, E1, Standing Stones (take loads of cams around 0, 0.5, 1)
The crux isn't very high though, and it'd be difficult to hang about to truly lace it. The offwidthy bit further up needs a big cam to be "totally safe".
Dexterity at Millstone has already been mentioned - lace the crack then eschew the 'cop-out' left hand finish. If you can jam the crux is at the top, if you can't it's crux all the way up! ;o)
If you want a really well protected roof route, give FBD a miss and try Roof Route at Rivelin - tough, but very well protected where it counts.
Nonsuch is pumpy and sustained, but it'll take all the gear you can throw at it if you have the stamina. As will Chequers Crack, at Froggatt. Pretty exhausting, but very safe indeed (which is just as well - it must be a contender for the most fallen off route in the Peak).
Would it be very unfair to mention The Vice (Stanage)? Horrific, but it is HVS/E1 and it is safe. (If you tape your hands up, to protect against blood loss. ;o)
hard moves off ground, use mat. hard moves off ledge with gear at shoulder height. easy padding with spaced gear. it could be vs 5a but the guide says hvs5b. great to break the psychology.
BETA ALERT BELOW LOOK AWAY!
Long tall sally is good if you know how to put two wires together to get overhead gear for the crux!
But in-situ gear should be discouraged at Stanage, and if it's not there and you pump out while placing alternatives then you could go for a big swing.
I climbed it in February and there was no tat on it (unless its discrete and I didn't see it).
It's also bloody nails :)
> Just to correct the Eastern Grit bias of the thread:
> Joint Effort, HVS 5a, Staden (if it's not banned).
> Pocket Symphony, E1, Beeston (loads of threads).
> Yew Tree Wall, E1, Dovedale (lots of gear).
> Pebbledash, HVS, Roaches (safe).
> Rubberneck, HVS, Five Clouds (enough gear to start, then plenty)
> Slowhand, E1, Hen Cloud
> Safety Net. E1, Skyline
> Ocean Wall, E1, Standing Stones (take loads of cams around 0, 0.5, 1)
Most of these are good suggestions, Joint Effort perhaps the best. c. same standard as Cemetary Gates.
Yew Tree Wall, yes, lots of gear but the crux is 5c ...
Rubberneck - just as you describe - superb.
Safety Net ... the first half is technically hard and felt quite high ball. Then wonderful well protected finish.
Ocean Wall ... very hard ... but I suppose the gear is OK. Brilliant route but, seconding, it felt like a rather full-weight E2 to me.
Delstree at Hen Cloud is a quality and well protected HVS, but only recommended if you like jamming.
Another vote for Milsom's Minion at Stanage, soft E1 and I thought the pro was fine; also Dexterity at Millstone is safe and good.
Delectable Direct at Lawrencefield felt like solid E1 to me, maybe on an off day, but it's well enough protected.
FBD is benchmark E1 in my opinion, the Tippler hard E1, The Link pretty easy E1 but can't remember the gear.
Link is pretty safe but very fall-offable as you go for the ledge... I cut the extender when I did this (fortunately not all the way through!). Ocean Wall has a bold start and is tricky to protect the start of the traverse unless you are tall. Queersville is also bold at the start. FBD is bold onsight for an HVS leader despite good pro, as its strenuous to place unless you have go-go-gadget arms and to add to the worry it sometimes pops out unexpectedly.
I'm a bit confused the OP is asking what he is ...just needs to look at the crack routes in the graded lists and go for it.
Fair point - I suppose that I was just after a few recommendations.
Firstly, there is no such thing as a totally safe trad route. Even sport routes have an element of danger!
Secondly, how about some stuff outside the Peaks? Cenotaph Corner is pretty well protected and über classic.
> Also should I shout "take" "watch me " or "would you kindly take in please belayer" before I fall off ;-)
My HVS onsight count is pitiful so hopefully this will hold some weight - Suspect Intellect at Curbar. Short but more satisfying than many longer route. Safe but unquestionable at the grade. Then go and do Avalanche Wall afterward (I slumped on it, nice and safe, I berated myself for not taking the whipper)
Avalanche Wall is a v good suggestion. It's actually a good intro to the grade. Well protected and certainly not a walkover.
The OP wrote: 'I am after really well protected Routes in the Peak on which to push my grade.'
Yes but I was referring to the thread title.
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