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climbing locations in France

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 bengascoigne 20 Apr 2013
Hi there

Was hoping someone could help me with finding a climbing location in central France. A few times a year I drive from the UK to Pau in the south of France for work, sometimes going via Brussels.

Does anyone know of any good places to stop off for a half day climbing along the way? Somewhere towards Limoges or Toulouse would be ideal, as would multi-pitch sports or trad routes.

What would be the best guide book?

Many thanks Ben
 tobykeep 20 Apr 2013
In reply to bengascoigne:

Not quite a direct answer, but there is (or used to be) a map you could buy of France which showed the location of all the main crags. Haven't seen it for a while, but you used to be able to get it in some service stations.
 tobykeep 20 Apr 2013
In reply to tobykeep:

Just found it on the Stanfords site: http://travel.stanfords.co.uk/search?w=escalade&asug=
 tobykeep 20 Apr 2013
In reply to tobykeep:

It's not actually a guide, but as I'm sure you'll know,you can normally get a guide in the bookshop in the nearest town.
 JonS 20 Apr 2013
try this site, plenty to go at!
http://nicobrasfort.starnux.net/?page_id=73
OP bengascoigne 21 Apr 2013
In reply to tobykeep: Many thanks for the into the map looks great. I've just ordered a copy. cheers
OP bengascoigne 21 Apr 2013
In reply to JonS: Thanks v much for the link looks v useful. I shall try to work though it with my limited french!
 stevieb 21 Apr 2013
In reply to bengascoigne:
Saussois and Surgy are both near Auxerre, about an hour south of Paris. There are some good looking climbs there, and maybe some multi pitch at Saussois, but even 20 years ago it was very polished on the easier routes.
 Rog Wilko 21 Apr 2013
In reply to bengascoigne: Vieux Chateau near Avallon is very nice and unlike any other venue I've ever been to in France. Reminds me of Dewerstone.
 TimB 22 Apr 2013
In reply to bengascoigne:

If it's the IGN map it's probably a bit out of date, but very useful for giving an indication of where there are concentrations of crags.

Also useful is this:
http://climbingaway.fr/index.php?option=com_content&view=section&la...

 Enty 22 Apr 2013
In reply to bengascoigne:

Try the map on here: http://www.climbapedia.com/en/splash/

E
OP bengascoigne 23 Apr 2013
Many thanks for all your replies, looks like some great info for reseaching some areas.
 JamButty 23 Apr 2013
In reply to bengascoigne: There was a book called The Rock Climbing Guide to Europe, which had mapped crags across Europe, and gave basic info on each one, with a selection of routes.
We used it as a bible for when we went to out of the way places.

The only link I can find about it is below:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Rock-Climbing-Guide-Europe/dp/1852234504

Another vote for Saussois though, and I think there are lots of crags around Toulouse, Perpignan etc
In reply to JonS:

Great link thanks
 Pay Attention 04 May 2013
In reply to bengascoigne:

Bil Birkett wrote a selective guide to climbing in France called French Rock.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/French-Rock-Bill-Birkett/dp/1852841133

Think it's about 12 years old now. I always meant to set up a climb and wine tour as a number of crags are near vineyards. For instance Fixin is near Gevrey Chambertin.

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