UKC

Hi All,

My much loved Boreal Ace's have finally bitten the dust after many years faithful service and so I would welcome any suggestions as to a suitable replacement?
I'm into multi-pitch rock, anywhere between V Diff and E2 depending on what I fancy....
Any suggestions/advice gratefully received !
ANdy

In reply to Andrew Mallinson: what do you climb most? Slab/vertical/overhanging? I wouldn't recommend getting a down turned toe if you're going to be mostly climbing slabs, but in all fairness, I'd avoid down turned toe shoes all together for multi pitch trad as they're too uncomfortable. Also, try on a few pairs before you set your heart on a certain shoe. Some shoe manufacturers tailor for different foot shapes. I like the 5.10 anazazis (sp?) as they're a great all round shoe for edging, smearing and most types of climbing.

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

I bought a pair of my regular shoes half a size bigger (anasazi verde's at the time). This worked well as it was the same overall feel as I was used to for single pitch climbing, but a little more comfortable. I've found that some of the longer routes I've done in the Dolomites and Bregaglia have the odd hard bit, so decent shoes are worthwhile; I also find it easier to place less gear and move fast on VS-type terrain in a pretty technical shoe that's just a little bit looser. In the past I've tried less-technical shoes for these type of routes, and generally regretted it partly cos it just makes things less enjoyable.

At the VDiff end of things, if you climb E2 then you can manage with anything obviously, and it's just a case of finding something comfortable. In that case any old shoe that you can get on perhaps over socks is going to be ok IMO. You could even use the scrambling boot-type things, though you'll regret that if you get off route or find more technical alternative pitches that you want to try.

If you're into proper climbing and can move fast on VS type stuff, what about some Guide Tennie type shoes for the easier stuff, I think they're brilliant? When it gets a bit more technical, just tighten up the laces!

I'm too old for tight things worn without socks, so buy anything that's comfy to wear all day. I learned this lesson after doing the W.face of Narajho (sp). My feet were so sore that I had to bivvi the night under some boulders, while my partner, Nick Dixon, ran down to Arenas for food and beer

In reply to Andrew Mallinson: La Sportiva Muiras.

In reply to Andrew Mallinson: I wore aces for years and still have a just about usable old pair, but I find scarpa force to be a comfortable fit, and having velcro fastenings they're easy to slacken off on stances.

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

Scarpa Vantage or the green Simond ones that are £50 in Decathlon.

In reply to Andrew Mallinson: I just bought a pair of Boreal Joker Plus - cheap, great feel on the rock, comfy (fit my broad feet), good friction - what's not to like!

In reply to Stone Idol:

Thanks for feedback guys & gals...any other views ?
ANdy

In reply to Andrew Mallinson: I use the old evolv pontas with quit a tight fit, I can happily climb harder (for me) single pitch stuff in them but do long routes that take a while. My advice would be to get something comfortable as you'll be in it for a long time but with enough of performance to get you through harder things.

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

I found 5.10 Galileo to be great all round shoes. Good support and hard wearing, more comfortable than Anasazi but still have a tight technical fit.

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

La Sportiva TC Pros were designed for multipitch trad on granite and are superb for the purpose. The designer, Tommy Caldwell, climbs 5.13 slabs in 'em. For crack climbing, they cover the ankles and have a little padding to make jamming less painful. The last is, of course, flat, but they give up little or nothing in technical abilituy except perhaps on the kind of extreme overhanging terrain that belongs to sport climbing.

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

Depends on your feet, I'd have thought.

jcm

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

La Sportiva Mythos. Never had any reason to complain about them. They've done me right from my first day through to multi-pitch E3s (well, I'm on my second pair now). I also have a pair of Muiras which come out for sport climbing and bouldering, but for trad it's always been the mythos.

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

>The ones that fit best, obviously. In terms of technical performance and shape, something like a Sausilito might be worth a look.

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:
I use a pair of sportiva mythos for such days. They hug my feet so well that you can have them tight enough not to roll around in but still really comfortable.

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

Something comfortable that fits over socks, ideally with a thick-ish sole for comfort stood on uneven ground. Just go to a shop and pick what fits.

jk

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

The Tenaya is getting good reviews recently, comfy and definitely worth a look I have the Ra but there are less technical versions for long trad routes available.

In reply to Stone Idol:

defo

In reply to Andrew Mallinson: Red Chilli Spirit Velcro for me. No complaints, except I wish they were a boot as my ankles could do with the protection (I like cracks!)

In reply to Andrew Mallinson:

Once that fit your feet, so comfy enough to wear all day. Prolly also a one with stiffer sole than a flimsy slip-on (like 5.10 Moccasym).

I liked Millet Hybrids, but it really doesn't matter much as most likely your feet are different.