/ Best Rock Shoe for Multi Pitch Trad?
My much loved Boreal Ace's have finally bitten the dust after many years faithful service and so I would welcome any suggestions as to a suitable replacement?
I'm into multi-pitch rock, anywhere between V Diff and E2 depending on what I fancy....
Any suggestions/advice gratefully received !
I bought a pair of my regular shoes half a size bigger (anasazi verde's at the time). This worked well as it was the same overall feel as I was used to for single pitch climbing, but a little more comfortable. I've found that some of the longer routes I've done in the Dolomites and Bregaglia have the odd hard bit, so decent shoes are worthwhile; I also find it easier to place less gear and move fast on VS-type terrain in a pretty technical shoe that's just a little bit looser. In the past I've tried less-technical shoes for these type of routes, and generally regretted it partly cos it just makes things less enjoyable.
At the VDiff end of things, if you climb E2 then you can manage with anything obviously, and it's just a case of finding something comfortable. In that case any old shoe that you can get on perhaps over socks is going to be ok IMO. You could even use the scrambling boot-type things, though you'll regret that if you get off route or find more technical alternative pitches that you want to try.
I'm too old for tight things worn without socks, so buy anything that's comfy to wear all day. I learned this lesson after doing the W.face of Narajho (sp). My feet were so sore that I had to bivvi the night under some boulders, while my partner, Nick Dixon, ran down to Arenas for food and beer :)
Scarpa Vantage or the green Simond ones that are £50 in Decathlon.
Thanks for feedback guys & gals...any other views ?
I found 5.10 Galileo to be great all round shoes. Good support and hard wearing, more comfortable than Anasazi but still have a tight technical fit.
La Sportiva TC Pros were designed for multipitch trad on granite and are superb for the purpose. The designer, Tommy Caldwell, climbs 5.13 slabs in 'em. For crack climbing, they cover the ankles and have a little padding to make jamming less painful. The last is, of course, flat, but they give up little or nothing in technical abilituy except perhaps on the kind of extreme overhanging terrain that belongs to sport climbing.
Depends on your feet, I'd have thought.
La Sportiva Mythos. Never had any reason to complain about them. They've done me right from my first day through to multi-pitch E3s (well, I'm on my second pair now). I also have a pair of Muiras which come out for sport climbing and bouldering, but for trad it's always been the mythos.
>The ones that fit best, obviously. In terms of technical performance and shape, something like a Sausilito might be worth a look.
I use a pair of sportiva mythos for such days. They hug my feet so well that you can have them tight enough not to roll around in but still really comfortable.
Something comfortable that fits over socks, ideally with a thick-ish sole for comfort stood on uneven ground. Just go to a shop and pick what fits.
The Tenaya is getting good reviews recently, comfy and definitely worth a look I have the Ra but there are less technical versions for long trad routes available.
Once that fit your feet, so comfy enough to wear all day. Prolly also a one with stiffer sole than a flimsy slip-on (like 5.10 Moccasym).
I liked Millet Hybrids, but it really doesn't matter much as most likely your feet are different.
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