/ Quickdraw question ??
The tight end
Pick a side and stick with it though rather than swapping, you'll avoid small burrs on the biners if you fall which could potentially damage the rope if you swapped it around on the next climb.
The captive karabiner should be used for the rope.
The loose end goes onto the protection or bolt. The tight end has the rope in it.
In theory though the loose end if clipped could be flipped to the opposite orientation with a rope meaning potential for the rope unclipping. I don't know the true purpose though. All mine are worm loose or deliberately loosened when using crabs for other things or extending into sling draws.
And for the record. People don't disagree with this all the time. There is only one way it should be done.
> The tight end
Sorry, ignore this! I got muddled.
Tight end takes the rope. This helps prevent crossloading. The other end is loose, because the rope can lift the quickdraw, and with a tight draw at the bolt end there would be a chance the carabiner is loaded across an edge (of the bolt).
However, if you are clipping gear instead of bolts, loading the gear carabiner over an edge of the gear is rarely an issue. I'd personally still feel safer with the tight end taking the rope movement but I don't think doing otherwise is genuinely dangerous.
As per everyone, loose for gear, tight for rope. Not only does it give a system so you can check all of your 'gear' crabs if you are a sport climber, gear being bolts in this case and bolts really wear crabs fast and can cause nicks in the crab. If this end was cipped to rope by mistake, the rope would be running through a burred carb, not good for rope! Also, floopy end going to gear is by design too. You clip a wire, hex, whatever and when the QD hangs on its own, clipped to gear and rope, sometimes it can be that the gear crab is laying gate against rock or a protusion, the theory is, should the rope come tight in a fall, the crab could be pressed against the rock and the gate pressed open. Open gate = weak crab. If the gear crab is floppy, its dead easy to rotate the crab so the gate isn't on the rock. Noticed more when clipping pegs really as you don't tend to always have a choice which way you can hook a crab on a peg.
Sorry if many know all this, it just this comes up a lot.
To make it easy to remember I just think 'r' for rubber, 'r' for rope so the gear is always clipped into the correct end.
Correct. I corrected myself, it was too late to delete my original post.
You can fix this with thick short rubber bands or, better, with castration rings - you can get 'em from agricultural suppliers on-line for about £1 per hundred. Just google it. I used 'em for years before you could get quickdraws "ready made".
If you use sling draws for more climbing than just trad, or your trad sometimes has bolts, remmember to have different coloured carabiners on each end and be consistent with the rope and gear end colours.
Falling onto bolts can cut grooves into the alloy that may abrade or damage your rope.
I use red for rope, grey (silver) for gear on all of my draws.
Good info cheers all, might mark (tape) some of my carabiners that are on the loose style draws to keep it easy.
From a practical perspective, tight end on rope makes clipping easier.
odd thing: in japan, quickdraws are often referred to nunchaku - as in bruce lee.
Some thoughts on using elastic bands to secure carabiners on open slings...
Saying that, I often use sling draws and don't worry about those, and I don't worry if I put a sling around a spike and clip that either, and my dragon cans are clipped without a rubber band etc. Not sure if there is much of a danger to be honest.
I can see how, for sport climbing, it would make clipping easier though, maybe not such an issue for trad?
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