/ fingerboardiing how much

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d conacher - on 21 Apr 2013
Hi there
Been fingerboarding little and often(5days a week plus some weights over the last few years, but this winter i started doing weights once a week instead of my normal two times aweek and noticed a big diffrence in the progress i was making and it made me wonder if the same progress might be made on the fingerboard if i did it less, look forward to your thoughts,oh and am 48 years old.got a power endurance query thread as well so feel free to give me your thoughts on that
cheers dougie
shark - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to d conacher:

Hi Dougie

I've just turned 49 and for many keen oldsters intense basic strength training is in many ways the only card we've got left play.

I have had a few stints of weighted deadhangs twice a week over the last 9 months yielding substantial gains in finger strength.

More here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=541174&v=1#x7249577
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ti_pin_man - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to d conacher: I was told 3 times a week and fully warmed up. If I'm at a wall I'll do it after warm up and somewhere towards the end of my session, then ease back to a few easy routes and stretch and go.

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