/ Anyone climbed at Binny Craig near Linlithgow?

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crustypunkuk - on 22 Apr 2013
I was driving from Linlithgow to Livingston today along the Burnhouse Road and spotted this wee crag which looked pretty interesting from the road. Has anyone climbed here? Is it any good? Worth spending a day here?
Cheers,
G
tony on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to crustypunkuk:

There have been a couple of threads about this in the last few months. Have a search on the forums (but the general consensus seemed to be that it's no great shakes).
crustypunkuk - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to tony: Should've really thought to search. Cheers.
bigdelboy - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to crustypunkuk:
I've literally just been searching about this as well. Always see it and think it looks good however after a quick search on here its appears to be mince. I was prob still gonna a quick look anyway though. Even to see if you could do a bit of low down bouldering/traversing or something.
crustypunkuk - on 22 Apr 2013
In reply to bigdelboy:
I'm not often over that way, so i just wondered if it was worth the effort to get there especially to climb. The general consensus would appear to be no.
If you take a closer look at it, let me know you think.
Lord of Starkness - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to crustypunkuk:

I visited Binny Craig a couple of times when I stayed in digs in Livingston back in the 90's. The main upper crag (visible from the road) has a reputation for looseness. I cleaned and did a couple of routes on the lower slabbier buttresses down by the pool ( my belay / abseil pegs may still be there), but they were poor quality in terms of both climbing and rock quality. The rock is very friable, and any cracks tend to be flaring or blind, so protection is also very poor.

The fact that we generally ended up climbing at either Rosyth or Auchinstarry even though my digs were 5 minutes from the crag says a lot about its quality. There are better places to play.
Fraser on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to crustypunkuk:

If it's the one I'm thinking of, I had a look close-up back in the late 90's when visiting the Tarmac-run quarry round the back, further along that same road. As others have said, it's pretty loose and despite when it promises from a distance, not worth the trip back IMO.
Fraser on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Fraser:

Ignore that - I'm talking rubbish, sorry. I'm thinking of the 'decent-looking' crag just north of the M8, somewhere round about the Harthill area. Close up, it's rubbish.
Lord of Starkness - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Fraser:

Virtually all of the visible rock (natural or quarried) along the M8 corridor is shyte (and I looked hard enough) - hence the reasons for preferring the dubious delights of the 'starry or Rosyth. No wonder I was more than happy when I got made redundant and could return to West Cumbria and solid lakeland rock.

Saying that, at least my acquaintance with the less than perfect rock of Scotlan's central belt was a good preparation for the following 5 years I spent along the UAE / Oman border.
crustypunkuk - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Fraser: Funnily enough, i pass that crag you're talking about once a week and have often thought about exploring it, as it does look good from a distance. I'll scratch that one off the list too then!
In reply to Lord of Starkness:
>
>
> Virtually all of the visible rock (natural or quarried) along the M8 corridor is shyte (and I looked hard enough) - hence the reasons for preferring the dubious delights of the 'starry or Rosyth.

I did the same in the late 1970s, visiting Binney Craig amongst others (including Ratho Quarry!) and can confirm that your assessment is pretty much correct!


Chris
Lord of Starkness - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Ratho -- almost forgot -- the scene of one of my few (true) HVS 5a leads -- Shoskred. Is it still standing? A lot of the upper section seemed awfully hollow at the time. I can't imagine it's got any better with age!
Mark Bull - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Lord of Starkness:

Shoskred is still there, quite solid, and a worthwhile route these days. If you take the chimney (i.e. right hand) option instead of the groove at mid height, its probably only VS 4c, and the best VS in the quarry.
In reply to Lord of Starkness:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> Ratho -- almost forgot -- the scene of one of my few (true) HVS 5a leads -- Shoskred. Is it still standing? A lot of the upper section seemed awfully hollow at the time. I can't imagine it's got any better with age!

Not sure - haven't been there for 30+ years. I think that was one of ours (me and Willie Jeffrey) though,


Chris
Lord of Starkness - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:

Seem to remember I went straight up - but thought it no harder, less bold (and much better protected) than my other favourite of the central belt - Red Lead at Auchinstarry.
Mark Bull - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:


> I think that was one of ours (me and Willie Jeffrey) though,

Did you mean to call it that, or is it a typo for Snoskred?


Mark Bull - on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Lord of Starkness:

Red Lead is quite tough at the grade: the easiest sequence is not at all obvious (took me 3 or 4 goes to find it), though the gear is very good at the crux.
In reply to Mark Bull:
>
>
> Did you mean to call it that, or is it a typo for Snoskred?

Can't remember - it must have meant something at the time - but its s o o o o long ago!

Chris
prog99 on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:
You do have the advantage of permanently chalked up holds on Red Led.
Fraser on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Mark Bull:
> (In reply to Lord of Starkness)
>
> Shoskred is still there, quite solid, and a worthwhile route these days.

I'm perhaps thinking of a different route, but if it is the one I tried a few years ago, I'd definitely NOT have classified it as solid. Looser than a loose thing, held together with dirt, dust and will-power. No sneezing allowed!
Fraser on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Fraser:

Jeez, I'm doing well on this thread. Just checked the old logbook and it appears I was thinking of 'Sedge Warbler', sorry again!
prog99 on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Fraser:
The blue line here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=87532
Thought is seemed fine as far as central belt dolerite goes.
Fraser on 23 Apr 2013
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:

Yep, that one wasn't too bad from memory, it was 'Sedge Warbler' I was thinking of as being the very unpleasant one.
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Lord of Starkness - on 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:
> (In reply to Mark Bull)
> You do have the advantage of permanently chalked up holds on Red Led.

It was not always the case in the 80's or early 90's


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