/ "Biggest" crevasseless Alpine climb
I don't know. But I do know you can do the Lagginhorn (4010m) without going on a glacier, because I've done it.
Most major peaks seem possible with sufficient ingenuity and skill. Mont Blanc via peutery integral (getting down might be tricky without touchng a glacier).Tronchey ridge on Grandss Jorasses. North Face ofEiger
Matterhorn if using the fixed ropes doesn't disqualify?
Then just be sure to die on the way up, not on the way down. Simples.
Oh, you do actually mean *run*, right? Certainly when I did the Lagginhorn you could have run up it, provided you're happy running up a 45 degree slope in crampons through mushy sticky snow. You could have run down it too, on the same condition, and with the added proviso that you'd need to be confident that you were going to stay in control.
This is just the upper half of the route I'm talking about--it's an open, simple, 45 degree snow slope about 300m high. Below that you have a rocky ridge, which is more like a scramble than a run (at least for me). Below that you have the approach path from the Lagginhornhuette, which is certainly runnable.
Not my bag, but if that's your thing, respect.
> Then just be sure to die on the way up, not on the way down. Simples.
Or alternatively get better insurance. Surely it's worth another 5 euros or whatever not to face such artificial constraints on what you can do?
Ah! Your title didn't make it clear that we are talking about real running rather than to figuratively "run up" it....
Weissmies you just turn round and go down the same way surely (well I know actually!)
The upper slopes were plastered in hard, frozen snow when I did it.
Yeah, running down with no crampons would have got me down an awful lot faster.
There was a recent article by Steve Ashworth in the FRA about running up the Dome Des Ecrins and Gran Paradiso. There were crevasses to be avoided, and he is a good climber.
For a 300m peak I'd take at least running crampons. Actually, I'm probably coming from Venice anyway.
Dome de Neige des Ecrins is surrounded by glaciers, no? Doesn't sound so great.
He has ran up 5b already so I guess we may live to see 5c too...
Mont Blanc by the Gouter Route has little crevasse risk (if you stay on the path). There are other risks but that depends on your climbing ability.
The route up from the Almageller Hut is perfectly safe to ascend and descend solo, but I think the voi normalle from the Weissmies hut can be quite badly crevassed. So a traverse solo is not a good option.
Bit far from Venice.
I just hope that meteo France is talking b*ll*cks about what is coming next week!
If you really mean running in one continuous journey, I'd suggest Mont Pelat - in the sense that you can actually run it all the way, but it's still quite big and isolated, which seems to be closer to what you mean.
It isn't cool or fashionable, but the Grande Sassiere, NE of Val d'Isere, is 3747m and one of the simplest high peaks in the Alps. The standard west ridge approach gives a 1500m ascent walk with just a bit of shaley scrambling and a steepish final ridge to the top; in recent years it's been virtually snow-free later in the season, with a path a lot of the way. In those conditions it would be almost like running up Skiddaw, just a bit bigger and with superb alpine views. But you need to come back the same way. Rather fine video of an MTB party on it at http://www.pinkbike.com/video/276918/
Monte Emilius from Aosta?
Bigerhorn 3626m or Balfrin 3796m, both above the village of Gasenried 1659m, Valais, Switzerland.
Approach the force la from the south, and go up Via Ferrata, then reverse , and you'd be fine without rope. Axe and crampons still required though.
On camptocamp.org, you can search for routes with total ascent larger than x, no glacier equipment required, and grade, for example, less or equal to AD-. Will have to look at that more carefully this weekend. By the way, the Lagginhorn looks pretty epic. Not sure if trailshoes would be entirely appropriate though (Kilian has helicopter support on the Innominata, mere mortals like us wouldn't...)
Elsewhere on the site
2012 saw the release of the beautiful first volume of definitive Yorkshire Gritstone climbing, produced by the YMC with Robin... Read more
Skiing Baffin’s couloirs has been on my to do list ever since I saw Andrew McLean and Brad Barlage’s inspirational... Read more