/ Sport climbing on Gozo

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Justins - on 27 Apr 2013
Hello all! I'm relatively new to the climbing world and am heading over to Gozo later this month. I'm debating whether to take my climbing stuff and wondered whether anyone had been there?

I'm not the best climber in the world, and my wife would like to climb too so sports routes of a low grade would be ideal. We're staying near Xlendi, and from what I can gather there's a crag within walking distance. Does anyone know where exactly? And whether it has any low-grade routes?

Any help would be much appreciated. I know there's a guidebook available but I can't really justify spending the money on it, and I can't find one secondhand. Anyway, thanks for your help!

Justin
scoobydougan - on 27 Apr 2013
In reply to Justins:
steviehaston.blogspot.com
deepstar - on 27 Apr 2013
In reply to Justins: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=217961 You should definitely climb this! loads of low grade sports routes in this area of Gozo,your profile does`nt say where you live but if you are in the South West you can borrow my guidebook.Martin.
Justins - on 27 Apr 2013
In reply to deepstar:
Hi Martin,

Thanks for the reply. I'm in Brighton unfortunately.

That climb looks amazing! Did you have to abseil down or is there access from the bottom? Are there any other good (and easy!) climbs in that area?

Justin
Chris the Tall - on 27 Apr 2013
In reply to Justins:
Ab in, but there's a big ledge so it's not too intimidating.

Three routes on that face, VS, Sev and VD. The latter two have apparently been bolted since we were there, though its the left arÍte which probably needs it the most. I should know - I did the first and possibly only ascent of it!

There were a few other routes on the other side of the zawn, similar grades, no idea about bolting.

There's a UKC user called Coverdale who might be worth contacting for more up to date details.
deepstar - on 27 Apr 2013
In reply to Justins: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=218037 this photo shows one of the several easy bolted routes on the steps leading down into the Wied opposite the arch.There are a couple of bolted lower off points above Gozo,Gone,though the rock is quite sharp,we used the matt from the hire car as a rope protector.Have a great time!
Justins - on 28 Apr 2013
In reply to deepstar:
Thanks for the advice! Would 50m of rope be suitable?
deepstar - on 28 Apr 2013
In reply to Justins:
> (In reply to deepstar)
> Thanks for the advice! Would 50m of rope be suitable?

Yes.
In reply to Justins:
Hi Justins and others, here is a mini climbing guide to Gozo and some photos, I hope this helps.

http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2013/05/climbing-on-gozo-by-stevie-haston-and.html

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