UKC

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (318) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=546928

Ali - Work been any better this week?
Deacondeacon - Amazing tick list
Daniel heath - ERgh nasty slabs are not something to fall off
IainRUK - all the best with the marathon training
Si dH - Dont worry too much about 1 bad trad session. There is always next time
kylieo - Wow 7b awesome
Eagle river - So close yesterday keep at it you will get toadal
AJM - nice work in pembroke
Jamming dodger - nice goal hope you get your 7a just put the work in and you will get it
Exile - Lack of time on rock will probably of hindered your progress ext session
Need kraken - Well done at LPT
Sankey - Awesome! your efforts paid off first 7a feels good dont it
Leon - Rest is important especially with an injury you still did quite abit any way
Pork Pie Girl - Another intense week. good luck with mescalito
Jimmykay - 8a beast!
Ian bell - sounds like a fun weekend even if the climbing suffered
Curious yellow - good effort getting out of the city 4 times in a week
Mattrm - Well done getting on the E3. good luck with the 7a goal
NMN - wellcome back to outdoor climbing. glad you enjoyed it
Northernclamberer - well done on the 5+ flash
Grubes - fat punter
Joughton - well done completeing the DOE silver
Biscuit - did you enjoy your reintroduction to malham?
Nomics - how did you get on at crookrise?
Seankenny - thanks for the suggestion its a route i am keen to get back on. If the E3 looked do able do it
Luke Owens - AS they said on UKB if you are so close to a route build the fitness on the route. Take the rast and make the most of it.
Ally Smith - Did you make it to malham?
Twigger - I love chequers buttress done it about 5 times. Nice tick
mbh - wellcome back
kevster - focus on what you want to do with the sport/trad thing.
Stevemarkperry - nice busy week. How are the knees after mixing bouldering with mountain biking?

In reply to grubes:

Thanks mate
M-Boxing, great session
T-working hard circuit, linking ~8 moves
W-military training, running around in boots
T-working hard circuit, linking ~11moves
F-Hill Sprints, weak but good to start them again
S-working hard circuit, linking ~21moves (some progress is just refined beta but I'm sure I'm getting fitter too )
S-Should do hill sprints after this coffee!

Still on track with weight loss goals but need to drop from 66 to 65 this week which will be require some discipline.

AnCap trg has been good on the circuits - next time I think I'll do a proper "get pumped" session before returning to 10-20moves.

thanks
Dan

In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes.

Started off a good week, finished less dedicated.

Mon: FB session & arms too
Tues: indoors - found an alternative for the hard blacks. Will see next time.
Sat: Wintours leap - E2x2 (1xOS, 1xrest). Good day, Kangaroo wall - with the 6a crux, is it really only E2 climbing or should I have aided it for E2? (Si, andy?) I've done easier cruxes on sport 7a's! especially as Fire fly is high end E2 and the crux of that was easier and just as well protected (and I went direct). Besides these, did E1 Wurlitzer too.

Please with firefly - most E2/3s I have done recently have had strong crack lines and excellent gear throughout. This was a little more varied in style and solid at the grade.

K wall crux- the feet evaporated on the OS once level witht the thread. The style is very malham/kilnsey incuts and poor feet - proof that I need to get out on the sport once more. Maybe bank hol weekend.

I may be stuck for a partner on the sunday day of bank holiday, peak/yorkshire. If people are going out & can bare an extra to their group, let me know please.

This week: FBonce, run once - this will happen this week, indoors once, outdoors maybe 3 days, yay. Really wanted sharpnose or pembroke, but lack of partners means peak/ yorkshire.

Thanks, Kev

PS Andy, did you get back on Them yet?

In reply to Daniel Heath:

update, ran round the block but still got DOMS so no sprints today. Running to boxing tomorrow is 1.5 miles both ways.

In reply to Kevster:

Meant to be all free, no aid. Not done it but you may have just put me off Well done on Firefly, that's on my list too.

Not been back on Them, no. Did The Mal this week which I can recommend, and apparently have a date with Think Pink on Tuesday (eep). Probably have to be when I get back from France now.

In reply to grubes: Decent week but not much volume. Had the Leading Ladder Final at Kendal, went much better than I expected! Having qualified in tenth place (only the top ten were entered in the final) I had expected to come out with a similar ranking, but instead managed to bump up a few places to fourth! A while ago I set a goal of top six in a national competition, I came 7th in the YCS so just counted that, but top four in a competition in an adult category definitely means that goal in ticked!

Wed - Bouldering at Rockover, felt so weak! Only managed one V6, and a few V5's after work. I do think it was a hard set but it was a bit of a wake up call to get strong again - I seem to lose it so easily!

Sat - Leading Ladder Final! We had five routes to have a go at, 7a+, 7b, 7c, 8a, 8a+. There was one bonus hold on each route, and the 7c, 8a and 8a+ had three on each. I warmed up doing some easy bouldering and a 6c, then I got on the 7b because there was a big queue for the 7a+. It was short, really steep and dead bouldery, with the crux being a big slap for the last hold. Just about managed it but flash pump nearly got the better of me. Next up was the 7a+, completely different, a long techy 7a+, which went pretty easily despite a bit of sketchy-ness. I'd seen a few people flash the 7c so I gave that a go next, and it turned out to be easier than the 7b! The lower wall was quite tricky before a massive roof, which had a few long moves between big holds. Proud to say I didn't cut loose once! Now the pressure of having to do the 'easy' routes was off, I could have a good relaxed go at the 8a. On my first attempt I felt great, and got to the last of the three bonuses on my first go, and a hold further, before just totally pumping out. I gave it another go but got to the same place, so gave it up and went bonus hunting on the 8a+. I reached the first bonus (about 7b+ to here) then a little further but things got much harder!

So I managed to finish 4th, beating a few people by just one bonus (the third on the 8a). If I'd made it a few more holds up to the top of the 8a I would've finished joint third, but 2nd and 1st place were a long way off! Admittedly there are a lot of people who would have beaten me if they had bothered to do the qualifying rounds but like my friend said, I could only beat the people who turned up, so I'm not too bothered. I think the reason I did better than usual is having much less pressure to perform well - I qualified last place and was the youngest in my category, so I had nothing to lose!

Jake

In reply to grubes: Thanks for all the nice comments guys! Good to see other FC'ers ripping it up, new grades left right and centre. Been a quieter week, but hopefully will be getting back on some routes next weekend.

M:
T: Rock Rings (pull ups+repeaters on a big hold)
W: Matrix: 15 probs around 6a/+ flashed, worked a few harder ones up to 6c, flashed a 6b+.
T:
F:
S:
S: Pleasley Vale: Laps on the traverse

STG: Start aerobic stuff for summer trip to Alps+More 7a's

MTG: 7a+ Appetite

LTG: 7b I guess, why not!

In reply to grubes: This week has been an awesome week, gonna do a sun-sun so I can start adding sunday climbs into the end of my posts. Have been really psyched this week and it was pointed out to me on Wednesday that I don't watch my feet placement well so I've been making an effort to watch as I place my feet which is helping =)

STG - boulder 6a, get confident outdoors, keep the psyche
MTG - 6b sport, HVS trad on second , get psyche to lead [slightly]
LTG - to not be the one in the group that people have to lower their grade for

Sun - Quick Holmfirth session, flashed a 4, got a couple of 5+'s I tried before and got so close to the 6a I've been trying. Touched the top hold but not enough to hold...damn short person!
Mon/Teus - Busy no climbing =[
Weds - Went back to Netherton, had a scared moment on a high problem, did the hard part of another 6a but couldn't finish the route, pottered around for a little more
Thurs - Undid the good climbing work by drinking too much wine
Fri - Indoor session to try and keep up strength, got a v4 [win] due to some small child beta (finally someone my height), worked on some more problems and actually felt good about my climbing at rokt for the first time in weeks
Sat - Harrogate flower show gig so no climbing =[
Sun - Have just had an awesome day out, got the mid-term goal by seconding 2 HVS's, the watching feet and being more confident on smears is really starting to pay off xD. I also led a VDiff, which doesn't sound that hard but my first lead of the year and I'm such a wimp that its a big enough deal that I didn't have to be bullied into it

New goals

STG - boulder 6a, get more confident outdoors, keep the psyche
MTG - 6b sport, E1 trad on second, get psyche to lead
LTG - to not be the one in the group that people have to lower their grade for

In reply to grubes:
STG (July 2013):
Climb 7a or harder in UK and abroad - Tick
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Climb on the cromlech
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
E3/4
Plan a font trip

This Weeks Goals:
Crack climbing! - climbed some cracks and did some jams

M: Netherton first visit on my own fell off a 3 warm up. Then flashed a few 3's did a 6B. then got two 6A+'s second go.
T: rest
w: Netherton. Did a few problems mainly spotted needkraken
T: Rest
F: Malham. Warmed up trying to flash Hardly There (6c+). I worked my way to the top and got it second go. Then tried puddle Jumper. Worked a sequence then had 4 rushed RP attempts watching the sun go down and the rain come in. Twice dropping it after the last hard move.
S: Malham with Eagle River and biscuit. Warmed up dogging up puddle jumper then got it 1st RP of the day. First UK 7a of the Year.
Then dogged up something stupid (7b)then had a top rope go. Felt very hard. skin felt sore.
Then tried to work frankenstein but I was knackered
S: AM Lawrencefield. warmed up on a bold HVS then lead a HS and VS with Needkraken seconding.
PM Burbage North. Lead Knights move and seconded Green crack (VD)
Then went for a walk

Next week goals:
Trad

Nice weekend feel pretty worked now.

In reply to Joughton:

Awesome performance Jake, nice one.

In reply to grubes:

m: easy 10 miles, slow pace.
t: am: 7 miles road and trail. pm: 8 miles tempo pace
w; 12.7 mile trail run at 6:30 pace
t: 6.2 miles tempo
f: 6 miles slow
s: am: 3 miles. pm: 2.5 mile warm up. Airport Run half Marathon, Berlin. Won, 1:15;09, new pb so happy enough, ran whole race on my own in strong wind and rain
s; easy 6 miler

In reply to grubes:

Cheers luke, and well done on puddlejumper.

Goal: 8a by end of 2013

Mon: rained off at CYL so went to boulder uk. New problems upstairs and ticked 3 tough V6s and did the 7b traverse twice.

Wed: Sneaky afternoon malham trip. Got on Toadal Recall, had one abortive lead attempt where I wimped out then one good effort falling at the crux.

Sat: Malham, back on Toadal Recall. First two RP attempts I fell at the crux press. Third attempt I made the crux press then fell off the next move, essentially 2 moves from the easy top section. Had a further, tired attempt falling at the crux. It feels close now, if I make no mistakes and am fresh it *should* go down.

Annoyingly I might not get back to Malham for a bit but I'll be trying my best to wrangle an opportunity.

In reply to grubes:

M: 7 miles flat, 7:30 pace. This is very fast, for me. swim 2km.
Tu: 6 miles trail. Really bad pain in the (looks up in his anatomy colouring book) soleus or fibularis (?) muscles somewhere inside the calf of the right leg after 3 miles, especially when going uphill. I probably should have walked from there, (and not run for the rest of the week), but didn't. I did my crab-crawl run instead. Was in some pain all evening.
W: Row 8400 metre
Th: run 5 miles, road.
Fri run 5.5 miles
Sa: swim 2.4km, run 4.5 miles
Su: swim 2km, run 6 miles.

This is the first week in two months that my mileage has dropped below 40 and when I haven't done 20 miles over the weekend. That muscle in the calf seems to kick in after about 5 miles, making running further seem a bad idea. I have done more swimming than normal, but I'd rather run.

On Wednesday, the idea is to walk/run the 26 miles of the Saint's Way from Padstow to Fowey, that is from Cornwall's north coast to its south coast, cycling first to Padstow then back home to Bodmin from Fowey when I've done the trail, picking up the bike that my step-son will leave there, him doing the same thing but in reverse. He is 22, I'm 50 - have a feeling it will be run/walk for him and walk/run for me.

In reply to grubes: Nice one on Puddlejumper! Get on Frankenstein when you're fresh and it'll feel much easier...

In reply to grubes: Cheerse grubes - work been pretty busy again - its a bit up and down at the moment so I'll have a few quiet weeks then get really manic. Been trying to make the best of it by fitting exercise around it, but this tends to work better for running than climbing

M - worked late
T - ran into work (6.5miles) - forgot to start my watch but think I was a minute or two slower, which I put down to lack of carbo loading the night before
W - Biscuit Factory - ended up getting there later than intended (work again)so didn't have a long session and it was mega sweaty - like climbing in the tropics - but had a good session and felt pretty strong.
T - BMF - Got a 'good, you're working yourself hard' from the instructor (they don't generally say anything so I figured this was pretty good) and had a good session. Nice and achey afterwards
F - rest
S - planned to run to pick my car up from garage, but overslept so failed on pre-run prep of banana eating and waking up. Run from hell but just about made it there (4.6miles)
S - nothing - met some friends for lunch and was planning to go to the Biscuit Factory after, but lunch turned into afternoon tea and I feel completely wiped out. As in pretty much zombified...hoping I'm not coming down with my friend's cold...

Exercise seems to be a bit all over the place at the moment - some days I'l have great sessions, others not good. Also ate out a lot this week which probably hasn't helped and been sleeping badly. Aim for this week is to start getting into better habits!

In reply to grubes:
Cheers Grubes, you're right about good and bad days, much better again today - I think Cratcliffe just doesn't like me!

STG (spring): Onsight at least 2-3 new E2s on grit then try to get maybe 2 grit E3s done. Also do an E3 in Wales while away over Easter (possibly on slate). [DONE 2 GRIT E3S NOW AND 3 OTHERS THIS YEAR, SO CONSIDER THIS A SUCCESS]
MTG (summer): Onsight at least 3 E3s & maybe an E4 on peak limestone and at least 2 E3s further afield eg Wales or South coast. Redpoint at least 1 F7b/+ to help keep fitness levels up. [1 PEAK LIME E3 TO DATE]
LTG (autumn): Onsight another 3 E3s on grit and an E4 either on limestone or grit.

M: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Short session, spent half an hour bouldering then half an hour dong ancap circuits on the systems board - after Cratcliffe experience last week end was determined to work a bit of power endurance.
T: Bouldering at the Churnet. Went to a new crag and did a few different things. Highlight was the first ascent of a new Font 7a traverse that I've tentatively called 'Sideways Smash' (the up problems on the block are Low Speed Impact, Near Side Collision and something else in a similar vein). Pleased with this, was a good evening. Neil thought it might even be 7a+ but I'll say 7a for now.
W: 5 minute chin-up session (think I managed 55) followed by a few repeaters on the 35 degree slopers - only a short session.
T: nothing - work night out, got far too drunk and ate a kebab...
F: hungover, no exercise, and ate a lot to soak up the remaining booze.
S: no climbing or training but walked about 8-9 miles with some friends and resisted booze both Friday and Saturday nights at the pub so not too bad.
S: Went up to Higgar Tor to do The Rasp but after doing one route (a short/soft HVS called The Riffler) we realised the wind was just ridiculous, so bailed to Lawrencefield. Had a really good day - onsighted Billy Whizz, Boulevard and Scoop Connection - another 8 E-points Also seconded Neil on Great Peter (done before) and High Plains Drifter. Found the crux on HPD quite hard but did it clean - not so far off that E4 is unthinkable later this year.

So a good week overall, not a huge amount of training but I got some good performances in and enjoyed it. Not climbing next weekend (and won't be posting, at least on time) as I'm away in Crete with my wife for the bank holiday, so hoping to get out in the week if work permits.

Cheers,
Si

In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes. I still can't quite believe I did a 7b, it seems so unlikely! This week was mediocre, I was tired and felt a bit goal-less at the beginning.

Monday - easy routes, still really achey from the weekend. Think I maxed out at 6a+ and they were mostly nice bridgey routes.
Tuesday - conditioning.
Wednesday - lots of easy bouldering, about 50 problems, all on jugs though as all the crimping effort from the weekend left me with a sore finger - just bruised, nothing serious.
Thursday - conditioning and 29 pullups in 5 minutes, 1 more than before.
Friday - hard routes. Onsighted a 6c which pleased me, I think it's only the 2nd time I've done that. Had a go on 2 7a+s - one I worked before but had forgotten a lot of the moves. The other one I made it to the penultimate move clean then fell, the last couple of moves require all my strength (and some).
Sunday - routes, complete fail on a 6b+, I think it requires you to be a mutant! 3 goes on the 7a+ I was close to on Friday but no luck. Found a nicer way to do the top and got to the last hold twice but never quite held it, very frustrating!

The plan for this week is mostly bouldering and then hopefully away at the weekend so I plan to sneak up on the 7a+ after that and get it whilst it's not looking!

I still can't really come up with any summer goals since I got my only one. After a few days recovery from the weekend though I am still psyched to climb hard so I think I'll just see what I like the look of when we're away.

In reply to grubes:

Better session on Ivy League this week - found a better sequence and it was warmer

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Concentrating on 7a+ at moment.

Weeks training:

M: Morning. 1hr 20min PE traverses & core at wall. Evening. 30min hill reps. Felt good.
T: Evening. 2hrs. Found a new sequence for the crux on Ivey League, did the route at the end of the session in three sections on TR. Should complete a clean TR next session.
W: Rest
T: 1hr PE traverses & core at wall. Tired - poor session.
F: Morning. 30min hill rep session. Evening. 40min continual traversing on 6b+ traverse outside. Good endurance and finger work out.
S: Rest
S: 1hr 30min PE traverses & core at wall. 4hrs MYBing, (work - but good tech riding.)

Excited about progress on Ivy League - just need to have some dry weather line up with my climbing time now!

In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes.

I ran 3 times this week for an hour a time and still no hip soreness.3rd run saw me feeling much more 'into' my running so all good.

I was in a hotel on Wed night and out of boredom on the train on the way down i bought a 'Men's Health' magazine. There was a press up routine in it that looked good and as i was stuck inside i gave it a go. It went OK but counting up later i'd done over 120 press ups in different variations and my shoulders and chest are still wrecking me badly. Oops !

Saturday i was forced into going to Malham by Eagle River, and the weather. It went as predicted and i got spanked by everything. Good to be out again though and great to see Grubes crush Puddlejumper and PPG hard at work on the left wall, and Eagle River is really close to Toadall. I never did like Malham

Sunday - supposed to be trad but rain meant I ended up at Kilnsey with Nomics. A grand day out making the best of a wet day. Tried a 7a/b (there's some discussion over what grade it is ) and it's obvious i am lacking the ability to put hard sequences together. I was suffering from massive power fade and couldn't get anything back. Again it was great to see Nomics crush it in great style and getting it first RP attempt.

So this weekend has given me the kick up the backside i needed. 7c is the goal this Summer and i have a partner willing to work the same route as me so no real excuses.

Stuck for the next 2 weeks due to my wife staying in UK for work so i'll use that time to train at home and get some cardio in for the Tri. I am buying a turbo trainer to get some serious work in.

Onwards and upwards !

In reply to Joughton:

Great result Jake !

In reply to Kevster: Don't suppose you'd be free on the Mon instead? Or anyone else fancy a peak outing bank holiday Mon? Up there for a wedding so can't really do Sat/Sun...

In reply to grubes:

Thanks for doing FC again G-dawg.

STG: Get better, do some stamina/PE training, lead an E1. (Done.)

M: Nothing.
T: WW 13 routes, up to 6c o/s, and dong 6c back to back with other routes. Good session.
W: Nothing
T: Half hour doing some traversing and a few easy problems.
F: Day hit to the Roaches. Did my first E1 of the year, Choka, very reasonable. Did the Mincer, took a fall (!) - just slipped out of the crux. Got it next try. Did a few other things, jolly nice day.
S: Tired after all that. So went for sushi.
S: Bit o' stretchin'.

A good week, nice to get an E1 in so feeling like things are going okay, tho falling off The Mincer was a bit of a surprise. Need to start stepping things up a bit now.

So, new goals:

STG: More stamina training, more E1s, try an E2.
MTG: Classic E2 ticks, eg Fern Hill, Pembroke routes.
LTG (later in 2013): E3.

In reply to Ali:

Kev and Ali, might be up in the Peak Sun/Mon on the Bank Holiday, depends on the weather and so on. Drop me a mail later in the week!

In reply to grubes:
Yes, i was at Malham in Saturday. I've worked out who you are now; i was on hartly hare/hardly just after when you redpointed Puddlejumper. Didn't twig you were with other UKCFCers though.

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond

MTG (Spring 2013) - Host of 8a+'s at LPT, namely;
Melan-copout, Bad melans, Melanbeach, Para-trooper & Battle (original method) as fingery training for;
Melanchollie at LPT & Insomnia at Dinbren.

STG (by first May bank-holiday)
Priorities:
- Aero-power; Get pumped 3 times a week - possible return trip to Santa Linya early in May
- Lots of core and flexibility to counteract all over body-pump that Santa Linya induces
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) before May Bank Holiday (77.4kg and 6.9% currently; too many puddings/not enough biking this week)

Others:
- Re-hab ankle injuries & assess whether surgery is the answer or not (still awaiting scan).
- Continue finger boarding
- Lots of elbow eccentrics & sports massage - Zottman curls proving good combination exercise. Other shoulder exercises too to realign poor hunched posture.

The week just gone:

M - Frodsham An-cap session. Repeated tries and failures on V10 version of "The Indirect" including snapping a hold/punching myself in the face on one go!
T - Quick racecourse stamina traverse session. Cut short due to ming; lots of salt used on roads over winter has washed through and crystalised out on the surface.
W - Completed home-made/shoddy short campus board, then completed foot-on campus. 6x100s on/5min rest. Core & antagonists during rest.
T - AWS routes. Finger feeling tweaky; OS session up to 7b. Couple failures due to unwillingness to slap. Routes seem to lack much variety, lots of front on rockovers
F - Rest. Rode to work and back (16 miles ish)
S - Malham/ 7a/+ warm-up. Dogged then TR'd Space Invaders. Almost fell at last bolt on RP, but sketched some new beta and clipped the chains. Glad to tidy up unfinished business. A link from Minimum Fuss or Tremelo might be pumpy fun? Then sorted belay on Unjustified and TR'd 7a+ extension and had strange allergic reaction to something en route; lichen dust? Went horse and croaky for 4hrous!
S - More DIY. Then quick cave hit. Did new (to me) V8 and some V6 laps and 3x20 kneebar sit ups. Stretched loads in last hour. Feels good.

Planning 2 more days on, then double rest day before heading back to Santa Linya for long weekend. I think the 8b i tried previously is out of the equation due to tweaked finger, but have my eye on a couple of 8a/+'s instead

In reply to grubes:
Cheers Grubes

Firstly: Needraken: Well done! Who cares what the grade is? You achieved your goal and it's all great progress.

Well! What a crapoid week! Work has been **** - a GIS shapefile I have been editing for literally months corrupted at 1am last Sunday with only 61 polygons left to edit. This pretty much set the tone for the week.

Monday: Shattered, crap day at work, sat on my fat arse and ate rubbish

Tuesday: Still knackered. Made it to the club session, climbed with someone different, wimped out of a few things I should be able to do, felt a bit frustrated with myself but nice to mix it up a bit.

Wednesday: Still shattered, went to bed at 7pm and tried to read the White Spider, fell asleep after a sentence!

Thursday: Considered bouldering, still tired

Friday: Serious case of CBA - no bouldering

Saturday: Wanted to get outside but no partner, slobbed instead.

Sunday: Went to the club session, tried my friend's new route, fell off repeatedly, didn't get to top, tried the 6b on TR, got stuck at the crux again (and again, and again, and again). Tried to flash a new easyish ungraded thing, got to the top but not cleanly. Friend led her new route, friend led the 6b. I felt thoroughly demoralised.

Fed up of being shit and not sure how to improve! Feel like giving up!

STG: Get outside as much as possible (fat chance). Have the opportunity to lead as many VDiffs etc as I can find. OS 5+ outside without fear!
MTG: OS 6a. Get a solid load of trad under the belt. Lose two stone.
LTG: OS 6b. Lead HVS. Second some totally awesome multipitch.

Hoping next week might be better, may get a session at Alien Rock or Ratho on Thursday on way to job interview if I can find a partner.

Muh!
Mary

In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.

M: - outdoor bouldering coaching session.
M: - 0.39m treadmill, 0% (warm up).
M: - 3.07m treadmill, 0.4% (speed).
T: - working away.
W: - working away.
T: – working away.
F: - outdoor bouldering.
S: - 9.74m trail run, 2,346ft.
S: - 6.04m trail run, 693ft.

In reply to grubes:


STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 11st 12lbs (no change really, still it's a low point!)

M - Rest
T - Core + ITB
W - Rest
T - Core + ITB
F - 13 mile run
S - Rest
S - Climbing @ Navigation

A good week I guess. Decent amount of core workouts. Not stretched my ITB enough really. Got through the 13 miler with out any pain, but it was feeling tender at the end. Not sure that I'll be able to do the ultra without painkillers, which seems to defeat the point. Weight has dipped again. Which is good I guess. Had to cancel the 55 mile ultra I was planning for September. As we're off an family holiday then. Bit annoying as they take 50% of your fees, for (as I can see) no real reason. So got to find another race to do to get my 3 points for UTMB. Which is annoying, cause that's another wodge of money gone. Not even entirely sure the UTMB is a good idea. I'm keen for the race, but not the races to get to it.

Session today was ok. Got up a 6a (very run out) and then my mate tried a 6b, but (cause it was run out) didn't really want to. So abbed the route and stripped it. Rather cold. Really ought to buy a decent down jacket for days like this. And some more fleeces.

In reply to Si dH: Great day at Lawrencefield! I had a nearly identical one last summer, it's an underrated crag. Also you're definitely close to getting that E4 onsight, so close than in some guidebooks you've already done one! I've not done it but my Dad certainly claims Boulevard as an E4. Also well done for seconding HPD clean, I found the crux to be seriously hard, pushing for 6b.

I'd say get to High Tor next time you can and jump on Flaky Wall, it's miles easier than HPD, and definitely not two grades harder than Darius. If you're committed and confident, then I'm sure you're fit enough to onsight it, it's an absolute classic! Plus it was my first E4, in my opinion it should be everyone's....

In reply to Joughton:
Sorry Jake but you'll have to tell your Dad Boulevard is actually soft E3 - not much in it between that and Billy Whizz Thanks though. I'm well psyched for High Tor once it's too warm for grit, and once I've done the rest of the classic E3s, Flaky Wall is definitely on the wish-list!
Si

In reply to Joughton:

Good work dude. 3rd is a good results fromthe youngest in your category!

In reply to Si dH: It's alright he's done plenty of others! I'd choose Flaky Wall over Lyme Cryme though, it's only a little bit harder but much safer - the fixed gear is well dodgy on LC.

In reply to Daniel Heath: it was 4th, just missed out on the podium

It's also worth mentioning that though I finished 4th in the adult category, the winner of the U16 category (you may have heard of a certain Alex Waterhouse) actually topped the 8a+, so would've won if he'd been in my category so I really should've been 5th...

In reply to Ali: (from last week's thread)

Sorry Ali I've only just seen your reply on last week's thread. I hope you enjoy(ed) the blog posts. I speak to a lot of climbers and you would, or maybe wouldn't, be surprised at how much head-game holds people back in many sports, not just climbing. Feel free to email me if you want to chat or quiz me on here.

In reply to Nomics4sale: (also from last week's thread!)

I seriously need to read threads after I've posted on them.

In answer to your question on last week's Fit Club thread. I have a trip planned to the Himalayas next year, but I'll be starting 'small'. Plenty of experience to gain yet.

In reply to grubes:

Pretty good weekend, I'm not going to lie. Headed down to Anstey's Cove. Super psyched and feel really strong at the moment. Managed a PB on the campus board on thursday night. 1-4-7'd the smallest wood grip rungs and it felt easy. Surprised as I haven't touched the campused boards all winter (apart from a brief play on tuesday night)

M-Core, Sit-ups and plank.
T-Session at the wall. Mainly spent on Fingerboards.
W-Core, Sit-ups and plank.
T-Session at the wall. Mainly on fingerboard but also tried to do the yellow circuit. Managed most problems (V6-v8) bit warm though!
F-Rest/Football.
S-Anstey's. Jumped on Cider Soak, absolutely psyched out of my head. The route was absolutely amazing. I was shocked by how easy all the moves felt. I felt like I could crush every move/hold. Gave it three RP's but kept getting the half height pocket wrong. (I think the top section will be the part to kick me off on the better RP's next time.) Psyched to get back on it in a few weeks. Cooled down by flashing Empire of the Sun. What a great route.
S-Woke up knackered from camping. Moaned about pretty much everything - skin, grease, aching, damp holds. Haha. Warmed up. Climbed up to the break on Just Revenge - rested on the rope as I was only hanging the draws. Then fired off the crux first go. Felt well easy. Gave it one proper RP but pumped out on the start as I didn't climb it well. Ran out of time so had to get the draws out. Had a brief play on the Lynch to gt friends draws out. Moves all felt well doable after a bit of work. Next time I'm down I reckon I'm in for a big ticking weekend!!!

So psyched. Can't believe how easy the moves were on an 8a considered 'hard'. I need to work on my PE over the next few weeks so I'm going start prioritising circuits in my midweek sessions.

What's everybody doing for the bank holiday weekend? I'm keen for Pembroke, but if anyone needs a partner to climb some sport anywhere in the UK let me know!!! I am literally bursting with keen-ness at the moment.

In reply to grubes:

Effort Jake!

In reply to grubes:

Effort Grubes!

In reply to JimmyKay:

Forgot to add the UK hit-list:

Cider Soak (Anstey's)
Mussel Beach (LPT)
Rain Dogs (Malham)
The Thumb (Kilnsey)
Let Them Eat Jellybeans (Kilnsey)
Elite Syncopations (Dinbren)

Let me know if anyone wants a partner at any of the venues on a weekend.

In reply to JimmyKay:

Cheers Jimmy!


That list is pretty much identical to mine at the moment, when I was looking for my 8a those were the routes I decided on! The only other's were perhaps Statement of Youth, or The Prow in a oner. Just to say I would be really psyched to try some of this stuff with you but transport is always an issue - I'll let you know when I've learnt to drive!

In reply to ally smith:
Ah okay makes sense.
Biscuit was my belayer and then the guy who went up it on toprope after.
Eagle river was either on F+EE or had already gone upstairs to toadal

Well done on getting one of your routes ticked now just to do unjustified.

In reply to Joughton and JimmyKay:

s looking likely I might end up a full time climber again for a few months over the summer (not my choice!) so would be very keen on getting on some of those too.

On another point, well done to everyone this week - I noticed IainRUK racing in horrible sounding weather, JK becoming the sport climber he always should have been and Joughton crushing the comps bit I'm surethere were others I've missed too...

In reply to grubes:
Okay yorkshire lime fit club meet.
If people are keen still I suggest the following:
14-16 june
places to stay:
Campsite in malham

For those that dont like camping There is a hut in settle
Yorkshire Ramblers Club Hut: Lowstern
Location: Lowstern, Clapham, SETTLE, North Yorkshire,

Travel Lift share could be a good option if people can work something out.
If using public transport I can offer a lift from huddersfield or possibly leed/bradford to yorks lime.

if your interest just say so we can sort numbers

In reply to grubes:

Morning grubes, well done on Puddlejumper. Quick work! Crookrise, ha, well that didn't happen but I had a really good day at Kilnsey instead.

STG (Summer 2013): 7b at Malham or Kilnsey, trad E1s and look at E2.
MTG (Autumn 2013): Something good in Spain, maybe 7a flash or 7b RP.
LTG (2014): lots of E2s, maybe look at E3 and RP 7b+.

Mon: Kemple End hill reps with Bowland runners
Tues: Ingleton, working circuits.
Weds: 5 mile Saddle Loop with Bowland runners
Thurs: Kilnsey, lead rpt 6b+, TRed Alternative Optional Extra (7a in guide book, 7b on UKC).
Fri: Malham, TRed Sycophants (7a)
Sat: 15.5 mile run 1,413m ascent to Steel Fell, Helvellyn and Dollywagon from Grasmere.
Sun: Kilnsey with the Fitclub Spanish branch, RPed Alternative Optional Extra, yay!

Sycophants felt really hard on Friday. Took me ages to work out a sequence. Gutting as the last time I was on it I TRed it cleanly 2nd go. Not sure what went wrong.

Really really chuffed to have RPed AOE yesterday. As biscuit says there is a bit of confusion about the grade, it's 7a in rockfax but UKC voters have voted it up to 7b. Whatever, it's at least hard 7a so I'm chuffed!

In reply to grubes:

yep, count me in for the lime meet. Sounds good.

In reply to grubes:

Oh, and I'm based near Blackburn and happy to give lifts from thereabouts or en route.

In reply to Nomics4sale: you say quick work It should of been done friday night if not for stupidity

In reply to grubes:

ha ha yes well I know that feeling! If you'd had a bit longer on Friday no doubt it would have gone in a session.

In reply to Nomics4sale: Hopefully just was racing against time on the friday so rushed the top.
Would of sort of a session had tried it for 5 mins about a year or so ago. Did not get very far then.

Well done on your route

In reply to grubes:

well you didn't start climbing till 5pm so it probably wasn't even half a session! how did Si get on with Tremelo? Cheers re my route

In reply to Nomics4sale:
Okay he got all the moves again.
I seemed a little depressed about the block coming off. For him he thinks it adds a lot more to the route and exends the crux.

In reply to JimmyKay:
- class route. Moved away from the SW before i got it done. Definitely keen for a re-match though
- Not sure why this is considered soft, as the headwall is pretty darn tricky. Statement is a better route though, and has lots of history.
- another classy route, but busy at the moment with lots of wads trying extensions. Jim Pope crushed it with ease this wknd.
- strongest "line" of all those you mention.
- also great, with a real sting in the tail. Not sure its dry at the moment?
- short sharp and not particularly nice, but often dry.

I'm keen for all of the venues mentioned. Get in touch!

In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes, great effort on Puddlejumper!

Bit of a "rest" week for me, done a lot less than usual due to feeling burnt out last week. Still feel tired though...

STG - F7b+, Font 7A+
MTG - F7c and Font 7B (End of 2013)
LTG - F8a and Font 7B+ (Next few years)

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Rest

Wednesday - Dinbren - So psyched to be back at my local crag, suites my style of climbing down to the ground. Got the clips in on Walking With Barrance (7b) and warmed up working the moves. Managed every move pretty much first go in isolation.

Only been on it briefly 8 months ago so couldn't remember much. Did some good links from the ground to a pumpy rest about 5 meters up then rested on the rope then from there to the final throw/deadpoint at the top.

Need to get fitter for it but I'm going to stick at it and start the redpoints next session (this week). It's a really good three star route.

Thursday - Fingerboard Aerocap 30 minutes.

Friday - Rest

Saturday - Rest (Had planned to go out but plans changed)

Sunday - Pen Trwyn - First foray on Mayfair wall, oh my life the routes are awesome! So psyched for everything on it.

Had a flash attempt on Contusion (6c), managed the awkward move to clip the bolt on the first bulge but pumped out trying to figure out a sequence through it. My mate is useless at sharing beta to which his advice was "I have no idea what I did, there's a good hold somewhere"!?

After pulling back on I managed to flash the rest to the chains, Argh! Should be a quick tick next time.

Got on Axle Attack (7a+) - Worked up it on lead. Tricky awkward start but the climbing on the upper wall is fantastic. Hard crux move to a mono. A lot to remember beta wise. Going to need some fitness for it!

Came down in view of having a good rest and working it some more but it rained...

Went to see some friends in Split Infinity cave, pumped out on the last move of a V3 trav 3 times, i'm fed up of getting pumped all the time!

Watched Ally Smith crush some V8, nice one beast!

Also had some feedback about the new 7b route I put up at Denbigh. Two 8a+ beast's were on it yesterday and I spoke to one of them who said it was a great route and a solid 7b - Psyched!

In reply to Ally Smith:
Hadn't realised it was you at the cave yesterday, until i've just read your fit club post! Good to meet you buddy.

Hi all

For me;

S - Portland. 6a+, 2x6a, 2x6b all OS. 1 x 6a 1 fall (the shame, foot slipped as wasn't paying attention). 1x6b - fell off and twisted ankle.
S - hobbling around so couldn't climb.

Annoying to get another niggly injury but feels like it should be OK in a week or so.

In reply to ally smith:

Cheers Grubes. Knees are ok generally but I do find that if I ride a lot and push myself with bouldering, especially with drop knees etc., that they do ache a little so I try to keep the balance and switch-up what I'm doing depending on what my body says.

Bit of a work-filled week this week so nowhere near the amount of climbing done that I'd of liked. Hoping to rectify that this week. Onwards and upwards.

Goals:
Gain ML(S) -- I'm filling up my logbook ready for training at the end of 2013, so get in touch if you want to get out!
Consolidate seconding experience (trad) including some mountain multi-pitch.
Lead 20 mountain multi-pitch of at least VS 4c by end of 2014.
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!).
Learn to ski.

If anyone is interested in how I beat, and still working with, my fear of heights and falling, I have written quite a lot about it on my blog. This post pretty much sums it up: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/fear-of-heights-conquered/ and this one adds to it: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/my-pledge/

This Week:
M: Work
T: Work then quick 20 mins bouldering but had to rush off so session cut short
W: Work
T: Work
F: Work
S: Work then 2hr evening Churnet bouldering session, climbed well and felt confident. Feeling stronger than I should be.
S: Work

In reply to Nomics4sale:



Half of the 35 voters have said it's hard 7a+ and the others have said it's 7b so you should be double chuffed not just chuffed

In reply to JimmyKay:

I'm always psyched for Dinbren! Get in touch whenever you're keen.

In reply to JimmyKay:

147 small rungs! so much power!

In reply to biscuit:

Yes dammit it IS hard so I am double chuffed, ridiculously chuffed! Pysched now to get on something over which there is NO dispute!!

In reply to grubes:
What/when were on at lawrencefield, might have seen you?

In reply to Si dH:
I was there till around 12 or 1 started getting busy so I sacked it and went to burbage.
I did I was just getting in some milage I was pretty battered from a late night and two days at malham so just did some mileage repeating stuff

meringue to warm up then nova and gingerbread.

In reply to Eagle River: might not get back to malham for a bit???? has sky falled down?? no no noooo

sorry, that's made me feeling all panicky!

toadal is so close... very very exciting :oD

In reply to grubes:

Hey Grubes, I am keen and available that weekend. I may only come the saturday/sunday. Some malham trad would be great and maybe try space race while im there. I would drive from Derby and could give lifts to people en-route.

Si

In reply to Si dH:

15th/16th is good for me as well. I've put it in my diary and will lobby my lovely wife for a pass.

In reply to mattrm:

Bah, about the only weekend that month I cant do now...

In reply to AJM:
Sorry.
I looked through the last thread (breifly) and could not spot anyone say a preffered date. I just remeber Ali saying she could not do 21-23 and I could not do 28-30 so chose the other date.
I am sure there will be another in the future

In reply to grubes:

last week.. mostly consisted of pain.. iot went like this..
s- malham, freezing, puddle jumper on TR x2 for warm up, about three on first 10m of mescalito. ouch. road bike from malham.. quick hill blasts from malham over to settle and back again (rained alot)
m-rest day
t-lunch gentle session on bike in gym to save legs for sportive in a few days. pm bouldring at the uni and then weights and core.. mainly did steep problems.. felt fairly strong
w-soreish arms from bouldering, lunch bike session (about 70% work rate- again not wating to overdo it) pm bouldering at rochdale wall.. mix of probelsm and circuits.. no idea of grade as they hadn't graded them when i was there.. enjoyed the cicuits as they felt like they were hard enough to get me pulling hard for quite a few moves
t-weights and a tiny bit of cardio. arms sore from bouldering last night
f- malham, led consenting and then TRed it, three goes on mescalito on TR.. can now link from ground up to second bolt then second bolt to fifth bolt.. that's the only section i have climbed so far. hard a feel of the moves from fifth bolt to the ledge (8th bolt i think) moves feel powerful and i'm fully stretched but got told i was looking pretty good on it.. so that's encouragement. tweaked right wrist (so both wrists with tweaks now)
s- didn't feel like it as felt climbing tired but forced myself to do a quick session at malham as the rest of the day was spent organising things for the sportive the next day. consenting (led and TR'd for warm up) clipped up mescalito, first time going beyond the ledge, wrist twinging alot when doing movements like holding clip stick.. but ok when climbing... but made me a bit tentative at first. linked bottom to 2nd, then 2nd to 5th, then worked the rest (consists of three bulges) up to the 8th bolt .. did this twice. then climbed the whole thing again. i'm overstretch on the second bulge to the side pull pocket.. got lfet hand opn a great undercut that pulls me in well but i'm a couple of inches short on the pocket with the left hand, once i can do the rest on that bulge... so i need to try something else.. trying to be more dynamic and throwing for the move worked first time round and also the day before.. when i went up on my last go today i tried this about 6 times.. maybe tiredness?

SHORT ASS BETA WELCOME FOR MESCALITO

S (yesterday) road bike sportive thing to support sarah... wrynose or bust. 115 miles takes in wrynose pass.. which everyone very dramatic about but tructh be told he climbs (if not hypoglycemic) were fine.. the flat bits in between were boring, it rained from about 15 miles into it and it didn';t stop until about the 90 mile mark.. miserable wet and freezing day, an old injury (grade 3 muscle tear behind knee ) has re emerged due to not stopping once i felt it niggle.. the cold was the main contributing factor... and sarah spent most of the day bonking .. because we didn't eat enough between feed stations. hasn't put me off but given the choice i'd have enjoyed an intense 50 miles with the hills close together, home by mid day, bath and settee... 115 miles in the *issing down rain and cold is silly.. i've never seen so many grown men looking like death warmed up and huddling round a radiator.

PPG

In reply to ally smith: were you do the 7c or whatever grade it is extension of space race/taking the space.. the extra few metres over the roof on saturday?

In reply to grubes:

Not your fault, don't worry. I'm sire if I end up playing the climbing bum over the summer I'll spend some time camped out underneath some project or another at Kilnsey...

In reply to grubes:
Ah right, we arrived about that time or just after and might have been on gt peter as you were leaving, but didnt head over to the slab at all. How was burbage, not too windy? Higgar in the morning was mental...

In reply to grubes: good effort on puddlejumper.. i don't think it's a push over for the grade at all and even more so now the hold at the top..top right has been pulled off it makes the top definately something you really need to shift your ass on otherwise it'd be easy to get too tired.. the top was straight forward before

In reply to Si dH:
It was breezy on top but around the base of knights move was sheltered and surprisingly empty. Warm enough to be comfortable belaying in a soft shell.

Got there had some people on it so I was gonna do the vs to the left but they just finished by the time I started to rack up so did that. Then Needkraken lead the VD to the left with no one around.

In reply to biscuit: what did you get on at malham? it'll feel so polished after all that spanish rock

In reply to pork pie girl:

Yes, that was me. It's called Space Invaders and IMHO deserves the 7c+ grade it's given despite the multiple knee bar rests i found I also think it's a good route and should see more traffic.

The actual redpoint was a bit touch and go as i couldn't locate the smear i'd used whilst dogging it. Ended up throwing my heel up high instead and only just caught the next hold. Felt good to have a fight and get pumped before going back to Spain.

In reply to grubes: I also couldn't do the 15-16th as on call that weekend

In reply to grubes: I doubt it'll be the last time I climb it!

Very lazy week, felt a bit ill and lacked motivation.

M -
T - 20mile road ride 1hr20 with some old boys
W - set mower on fire
T - fixed mower
F -
S -
S -

Had a family do over the weekend. Was yearning for a climb indoors or out.

This week is going to be better, already started with the intention of routes tonight...

In reply to ally smith:

Ally - RE space invaders - is it fairly solid up there? It mentions loose holds etc in the guide. I've always wanted to do it, but its always busy on the left and didnt want to dislodge anything.

[Sorry to invade your club everyone btw, I lurk/read for psyche. And to keep an eye on Luke (Grubes) to make sure he is training for our onsight of Grand Wall in squamish this coming September Come on luke, more laybacking practice please!].

In reply to Ali:

Ali, sean, Jimmy and for that matter others, I am most likely going to the Peak this weekend, though weather might be a close call for venue. Mail or call when the forecast evens out. Sport or trad. Kev 07792179438

Northern Clamberer - Don't get dis heartened by poor performance/having your ego broken. I place my self as an average climber, trouble is as I get better, I go to harder venues and the wads get even bigger and stronger, making me smaller and weaker in comparison.
What I do know is that by my failing, I KNOW that I am pushing myself - an easy ride is a wasted opportunity if you have big ambition. I also know that by pushing I will improve and will get better/stronger. Failure (however you view it/achieve it) isn't always fun - usually if ego is attached it sucks, but can it be turned into a positive thing. Enjoying the view on a route is enjoyable, but I prefer the feeling of still being alive after a battle to the death - which means one has to go into battle!....and be willing to take a beating.
Keep it up son!

In reply to Kevster: Top words Kev - it's a lesson I'm having to learn. Not too keen on failure myself but I'm just realising I need to fail often to advance. I've not got to the top of anything in weeks indoors but I am getting better, stronger and more confident.
Take the beating Northern Clamberer and come back stronger for it!

In reply to NorthernClamberer:

Thanks and try not to get too disheartened, rubbish weeks are annoying but there will be a good week coming, the psyche will come back! Also trying to work on one thing to improve may work wanders, I'm currently trying to watch where I place my feet (it was pointed out to me the other day that I look for the hold but didn't watch my foot go on...sounds such a small thing but it helped)

Thanks for doing the thread grubes.

In reply to ally smith:
- Jim Pope crushed it with ease this wknd.

What a hero )

Mon - Rest.
Tues - Castle. Terrible boulder, still aching from weekend.
Wedns - Castle. See Tuesday.
Thurs - Castle. Short boulder, laps on envy, offset pullups etc.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cheyne Cliff. Road Rage is turning into a bit of a struggle. Physically I can climb it but there's a clip that's psyching me out. I need to switch my brain off and just clip it quickly but it's not something I'm good at.
Sun - Cuttings. Back on Infernal Din, going surprisingly well. A couple of small things to sort out but not far off starting redpoints.

In reply to grubes:
Oops, completely forgot to post last week :o


14/4 77.7kg 16.7% sneaking back up still after Kaly and feeling very groggy all week. Either an ear infection or hayfever is starting (or too much beer!). Resolve to avoid grain alcohol (wine's ok) and drink more water.
15/4 run on Halkyn Mountain: off-road running, split up with some small (3m) limestone ex-quarry crags, so had some fun bouldering traverses!
16/4 Maeshafn: Led 2 routes: Rambler HS 4a, then made a pig's ear of Puppy Power VS 4b by going off-route to the right and running out of small enough gear, needing a rope lowered. First epic! confidence slightly knocked...
19/4 short run but still feeling groggy.
20/4 Four routes at World's End, 3 seconded, 1 VDiff led, learned about rope drag! Still not too happy, this Trad stuff takes getting used to!
21/4 to temper my damped Trad confidence, went to the Beacon with a mate who's pushing 6c, so we had some good flying time! 4b,4b,5c,5b,6a+ dogged (3 rests), 6a+ dogged (1 rest), 6a+, 6a (rest), 5a, 6a, 6a+ dogged (2 rests), 6b dnf: 3 falls including a humdinger! 9 clips out of 13, 6a+ dnf (tired now), 6a then a few bouldering routes. Confidence RESTORED!
--
This week:
22/4 Gym, erg of 100 stroke warm up (3 mins), then 2 mins light (2:10 or 800cal/h) followed by 30s race pace (1:36 or 1600cal/h), repeat for 6 reps. then arm weights and stretches
23/4 Llanddulas cave, Lemon crunch 5+ twice, then the horrid Elizabeth Taylor (Dogged), couldn't balance up to the clip in, so took a fall, then was helped to clip in from Free the Bont. Then did neighbouring Free The Bont on TR easily. Hrmph!
26/4 wt 78.2k 17.1 % heading in the wrong direction!
27/4 took Daughter to Oxford Brookes climbing wall, some repetitions on V1 routes - fairly happy - followed by 1hr rowing on the Thames!!

So that's it: I'm just coming out of a slump, and this week I'm going to Penmaenbach Quarry tomorrow, then off to Pembroke on Friday where I intend to get a lot of Seconding practice!

In reply to grubes:
STG: Stick to the training plan.
MTG: 2*E2s, 1*6c & 2*7a by end of May.
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: Err
Focus: LE(2/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF, using core to reduce strain on fingers (maybe).

Mon: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Tue: Routes @ Alderly to HVS
Wed: Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
Thu: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Steep wall lock-offs.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Core. Arc(30 mins). Chee Dale
Sun: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters * 2.

Thanks Grubes & well done on the 7a.

Hit the training target. The actual sessions where mixed, Core, Arc & 4x4 went well but the repeaters and weights were not so good. First time on lock-offs for 3 years & no surprise I'm back to square 1. I rekon they will help on steep limestome.

Chee Dale on Saturday was good. Tried Max 'is wall & was surprised at how hard I found it. Had two goes on top rope & rekon I'd need another go before I could lead it. Think/hope a big part of this was getting back into sport climbing. Tried Bream in Black as well & was happy to do it with 1 rest (thanks to beta) on the first top rope.

Looking back at last year I rekon I had kicked into gear by start of June (very late in the year I know) so am going to set myself an MTG that will represent an improvement over last year. I've also change the LTG to make it more of a lets do better than last year goal.


Plan for next week:
- 4x4 -1 set.
- ARC -2 set.
- Repeaters -1 set.
- Bouldering/routes -1 sessions.
- Core -3 sets.
- Steep wall lock-offs
- Weights

In reply to Kevster:

Kev, sounds good, if not the Peak then would you be going elsewhere? I'll get in touch later this week when I've a better idea of what I'm doing...

In reply to Needkraken, Mrchewy and Kevster:

Thanks guys. You are, of course, all right. The routes I got the most out of in Siurana were the ones that scared the shit out of me, that I had to do a (perceived) horrible move on or that I absolutely fought my way up, dogging the hell out of it.... pushing myself in other words.

I suppose that cos I fell off the overhang at the wall and hurt myself quite badly a few months ago, I'm still a bit scared. But if if I'm not likely to fall off then it isn't difficult and if it isn't difficult, I am not trying.....

Going to use you guys as motivation and try and get the psyche back tomorrow for the club session.

In reply to NorthernClamberer: That's what we wanna hear! There's nowt wrong with being scared either, it's how we react t the fear that matters. Don't let it swamp you.

I was at the wall tonight and slipped whilst seconding as I was trying to undo the 2nd clip and hit the ground with rope stretch. It was a bit of a jolt. I got straight back on and had 3 more goes at it but I was a bit too psyched to think straight. Took a rest and then tried to lead the 6a next to it, despite sore knees, rope burn and shakes like an alcoholic. The soreness will go and at least I didn't give up... there's a lot to be said for not giving up.

There'll always be a route or problem that pushes to your limit, that won't change no matter how good you become.

If you can get hold of a copy, watch The Wizard's Apprentice, it had a huge impact on me. There's thinking you try hard and then there's actually trying hard. Ondra really does try hard. It's an education that DVD and I don't really like climbing films.

In reply to NorthernClamberer:

Hiya Mary... sounds like you had a tough week last week, maybe you'll be able to identify other factors that made you feel so knackered?... a late night on sunday isn't a good start to the week but sounds like you tried to catch up on your sleep a couple of days later... best to probably just accept it as a crap week and not over analyse it if it's a one off.

i think the whole feeling rubbish issue comes and goes with loads of climbers (it does with me on a very regular basis) the thing that i try and remember is that with the lows will come the highs.. i try to find positives in all of my climbing sessions, sometimes easier said than done... but try and take even the smallest achievement away from each session.. even if you climbed badly in session in comparison to your usual standard then surely the positive from that would be at least you've got more mileage in?

keep your chin up, get stuck in next time you're out, climb with people that you feel safe with, who encourage you and are also willing to try really really hard... everyone trying is really contagious. if you can't find people that want to try realy hard then promise yourself that you're going to regardless of anything. oh... and try really hard on routes/problems that excite and inspire you i.e. that make you buzz your *i*s off when you manage just one extra move or link sections.. getting drawn in is huge motivating factor.

PS hope the job interview goes well

what about the campervan/travel plan???

PPG

In reply to grubes:

what do you think of Stark and Stiff Upper Lip, Ally? They look like my style (especially as SUP has a boulder problem extension.)

In reply to Si dH:

Good work cleaning up Lawrencefield. I'm sure something like HPD would feel much easier on lean than second. Get on some E4s

In reply to JimmyKay:

They both look awesome, but I guess the only problem will be making sure Pigeons's is in condition.

Doylo's got video's of both of the routes on his YouTube incase you haven't seen them.

In reply to JimmyKay:

I've not done Stark, but belayed folk on it. I think it's more conditions dependent than SUP. Also, you really should do the proper finish moving left into Koo koo now, but that means it's now top of the grade.

SUP is an excellent route. Lots of tricks and beta options so should suit a range of body sizes. Doylo & Mawson thought hard 7c+, but everyone else has taken the 8a tick, some even saying it's solid at the grade.

The extension is about 7A+ boulder and a bit of a weird move. Still can't be that hard if Ding Dong can use it as a warm-up with holes in his boots...

ps, have you seen this ticklist? Should school you in the ways of proper 8a

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=162

In reply to ally smith:
either that or mr dyer is an absolute beast ...

In reply to ally smith:

Where are you climbing this weekend? I wanted to get a 3 day trip to project something somewhere but I'm currently struggling for partners so may have to break it up into day trips.

In reply to JimmyKay:

Santa Linya - yer keen?

In reply to Kevster & sean: I'll def be in peak and still looking for partner - up for trad or sport, generally prefer limestone to grit but could be persuaded. If the weather turns bad may go for a run and wall session (got to drive back to London so don't want to head too much further afield!

In reply to pork pie girl: Cheers PPG! It's just hard shaking off negative head, especially when I struggle a bit with the lows of my bipolar anyway.

Went to the wall and tried to try hard but got the total fear on the second lead, a proper full body shake fear. Friend was scared I was going to fall off at the reunion I was shaking so much as I went to clip (and of course was fumbling). Tried the overhang - was scared, backed off. Then went to top rope things and fell off about a million times, but there was a bit of progress and I suddenly realised that they are probably all 6b ish so falling off is nothing to be ashamed of (for me)! Finished by getting back on scary lead and was scared still but less so and although I had to rest with hands on diff colours at one point and take a moment, I got there. My fingers are really sore now so I must have been working hard at my crimping at the very least.

In reply to grubes:

I had been hoping to get a few sessions in this week and have a good week and a half to report but last minute van tasks have been dragging on so doesn't look likely.

So last week I did the Mal, a nice E3 at Avon - takes me up to 4 this year. Pleased with that although would have liked more really. Fingery, pumpy, lots of pegs, good fun.

Weekend was a bit frustrating, had so many plans and almost none of them came to fruition. Messed out on meeting mattrm too. So all I managed was a day at Brean. Wasn't super psyched to start, but did the usual set of warmups and dogged Storm Warning Variation which my mate was on which is good fun. Managed all the moves apart from the weird rockover right that people who've tried it will be familiar with. Strained muscle in right leg just didn't want to play ball.

That got busy so I eventually got back on Global Solutions. Should have got on it earlier in the day really, because I felt way stronger on it than before. The move was doable but hard, and I got the rest of it, but had one serious redpoint and skin was screaming so had to give up. Gutted. 7b+/c I guess? Could have done it if I hadn't trashed skin - fell off the last hard move.

Feel very unsure about how the trip is going to go - feeling like trad fitness is coming back really well and am feeling strong, but training has also been totally haphazard with work stress and van work so I might be totally lacking in the power endurance to glue the whole thing together. Could be anything from "smash smash" to abject punterdom, guess there's only one way to find out!

In reply to AJM:
If youre feeling strong nd fit, be positive about it - youll probably be well rested and crush everything in sight. How long are you out again?

In reply to Si dH:

Hopefully so!

Climbing coming Mon/Tues with Ali so prob on easier stuff, then Wednesday through until Fri 17th or whatever it is with Alex, so maybe 10 days of hard climbing including some rest days...

In reply to NorthernClamberer: ah right... well only you know how to manage that ... and if encouragement helps.. then here's on of the places to get it :O)


firstly 6b isn't a push over at all, so it's wortyh investing the time into these routes your trying.

sounds like you did have a good session, pushing yourself to keep trying to lead when you feel frightened to the point where you're shaking so much takes alot of commitment.. which will start to pay off sooner than you think... my last red point to break into a new grade took more mental work than actual physical climbing. The process wasn't as long as i expected but i really had to totally force myself to press on and climb and take the falls.. (something that i have been told by others alot).. and something that i will need to do with my next project..

i do find jumping off on the sections that intimdate me the most really helpful when my fear is stopping me climbing as well as can ... the process still isn't easy. You still have to really psyche yourself up .. and the most dominant feeling i have when doing this is aggression really.. turning fear into aggression .. often born out of feeling frustrated with myself for feeling afraid.. i am a wierdo.. i tell myself to attack the fall!!! bloody stupid but works for me.. once i've gone through this process i often find that falling doesn't enter my mind.. i just get absorbed in the moves and excited about the possibilities.

so far it sounds like you're doing alot of what you need to do anyway.

the other thing i find really unhelpful is if i hear fear or hesitation in my partner's voice.. i don't want them to feel afraid of what might happen to me.. especially when nothing bad's going to happen!! so often i tell sarah (who i climb with quite a bit) to just pretend she feels super confident and really put a confident voice... even though i know she's putting it on it works for me... having others believe i can do it is a huge factor.

many people don't find this side of climbing a big deal.. but i'm still very new to sports climbing and it does require a different approach if you're climbing at or above your limit.

In reply to grubes:
Just a reminder my month is up again so stats for the next few weeks,.

I will do the 26th again as I have a few weekend I cant do in june.

5/5 : Jamming Dodger
12/5 : Jamming Dodger
19/5 : Ali
26/5 : grubes
2/6 : grubes
9/6 :
16/6 : Grubes
23/6 :
30/6 : Grubes

If anyone can fill in the blanks I would appriciate it. Or if some one is willing to take it on for a month or a few months I would be very happy.

In reply to grubes:

I can probably do the 9th June. Should be psyched after just getting back from climbing somewhere during half-term.

In reply to JimmyKay:
I will be psyched out of my mind as I am doind a weekend raid of riglos that weekend.

In reply to NorthernClamberer:

The thing about leading is, yes, it can be scary. But also, we don't really do it very often. The last time I did routes at the wall, I did about 13, so we are looking at a maximum of say half an hour leading, and of that time only half of it was with gear below my waist (that's walls for you). So a perhaps a mere 15 mins in a week of being above my gear.

And that's a good session. Guestimating from your post, I'd say you spent probably under five minutes leading something. It's hard to get better at something if you do it for five or ten mins a week.

Maybe (and remember I'm an internet random!) if you want to get better at leading you need to spend as much time as possible leading. Forget the grades, rainbow your way up if necessary, just spend wodges of time leading routes. You want to get comfy so you associate leading with having fun, rather than full-on fear. This is particularly so if you've already fallen off and hurt yourself. Treat the mental side of things like stretching - relax into it slowly and carefully.

In reply to grubes:

Right, I think I'm heading to Malham for the weekend so I may see some of you there. Zoolook is the recommended route as Raindogs is busy?

In reply to seankenny:

I'd agree with leading as much as possible - when your ready to do so!, I stopped top roping warm ups a couple of years ago as I felt it was n't warming my head up - it was too secure.

I also go with not clipping the top and dropping off (when it's safe to do so) on as many routes indoors as possible.

I still find the anticipation of falling a little scary, but know the actual thing is fine, and it builds belayer trust.

In reply to Kevster: Yes, I totally agree with leading as much as possible, definitely as practice for climbing sport outside. I have no idea why the yellow was scaring me so much - it's well within my capabilities! I started with a nice familiar lead to warm up (totally fine), then the yellow (crapping myself!), then a top rope, then 2 goes trying to lead up the overhang (scared!), another 2 top ropes and then yellow lead to finish(a bit scared still). It feels like I can lead up to a level fine, but then as soon as I think I can't do it (I see the grade), the fear kicks in and then I really can't do it! I wish I had a big 'brain off' button!!

When I was having massive paralyzing panic attacks after falling off the overhang, my friend made me keep climbing up the 10 degree wall and jumping off higher and higher above the clip until I nearly kicked him in the head when I fell. That definitely helped, but you really have to trust your belayer!

In reply to Kevster:
Also agree with not top.roping routes. I think this should only ever be necessary if you are just starting to work a route that is right at your rp project limit (hence has sequences of moves which you find difficukt to do each of even in isolation, making it difficult to work them on lead), or possibly if you are at a crag with nothing at all that you can lead to.warm up.on - but even then I think warming up bolt to bolt works better. Regularly top roping routes that you can do the moves on doesnt help.the head at all. Same goes for clip sticking bolts above your head all the time.

In reply to Si dH:

Agree. topropimg sport routes f*cked my head over for onsighting and the stick clip and top rope method didn't help because I became helpless without a stick. I still use it but I try and make sure I've had a few goes first and that it's genuinely about efficiency and not deep down a crutch for cowardice. I'm a naturally shit onsighter so I need to not make things worse for myself and for me working projects on toprope once I can reliably link each bolt doesn't help with that.

In reply to NorthernClamberer:
Sounds like you're going through what I'm just coming out of the other side of.
Bear in there, rest up (it could be a bug, it could be overtraining) and focus more on technique rather than harder routes. I've been having probs with 5 sport slabs this week (trusting those grippy rock shoes it daunting!) so I'm in the same boat! It'd be good to find someone to climb with who can make helpful suggestions perhaps?

In reply to DoctorU:

*shouts...

"Trust those grippy rock shoes!"

Or rather, weight those feet to get them gripping properly.

In reply to NorthernClamberer:

If you see "capabilities" as purely physical then the route may be within them. But climbing is massively psychological. So perhaps best to see the route as on the edge of your capabilities *at the moment*, because it's very frightening to you. That way you can put this in its proper place, ie. as something you find hard, not an ideal route to do as your second in the session, etc. And you won't feel so bad about struggling with it. Don't worry, tho, your capabilities will change.



To me that doesn't sound good, as you're reinforcing the link between falling and injury. And it sounds like you're taking the practice fall way, way too close to the ground. Perhaps you need to go at your own pace on this kind of work, rather than having someone "make" you do something.

In reply to seankenny, Si dH, AJM, DoctorU, MrChewy

Thanks guys. It's good to hear others who have similar experiences and advice. I suppose I am just very rational and am therefore upset that I can't rationalise this fear or easily overcome it. I think I am going to just keep leading what I can (clipping practice at least!) and keep plugging at the yellow until it feels easy. Hoping we might have weather for a foray outside at the weekend. There's a nice 6a in the quarry I'd like to try.

Re the wall jumping: friend is very experienced and also very, very tall (and was off the ground). That was the last fall before it was deemed anything higher was too high. I wanted to do it and he structured it incrementally and got me to do at least 10 falls in a row.

DoctorU: trust your feet!!!!!

In reply to NorthernClamberer:


What he's like 30feet tall or something? The other thing is of course that with more rope out the falls are much more comfy.

In reply to JimmyKay: Hi mate send us a text and I will head over one day or two

In reply to mrchewy: Oh, there's plenty of weight over them

In reply to NorthernClamberer: That's a good, rational approach to an irrational fear. Keep plugging on and you'll at least develop the muscle memory and improve route finding by dogged experience!

re: feet: I know, I know And I thought I was rational, too... :/

In reply to grubes:
has anyone heard from jamming dodger? she was meant to be doing stats on sunday but she has not posted this week
If she does not post on here by saturday night I will post stats. I think next weeks posts could be rather interesting ...

In reply to grubes:

I can do it this week if you want Grubes.

I am stuck at home with not much better to do other than bask in the glory of others

In reply to biscuit: Okay I will let you have this one. :P

In reply to grubes:

No worries i'll get it done. Probably get it done early in the morning, about 8

In reply to grubes: I'm looking forward to reading next week's posts too

In reply to Ali:

Why? What happened? I can't think of anything memorable or awesome.

In reply to Eagle River:

I see you've already updated your profile (sorry I didn't reply to your text - sent to an old phone I rarely look at - didn't see until this evening). What next - GHB / Zoolook?!?!

In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Kilnsey season now, although I'm not climbing for three weekends as I'm away for two and busy this one so ill have plenty of time to think about it.

In reply to seankenny: Yes, he is 30ft tall. He's quite conspicuous!