/ AD/D routes in Chamonix
I'm planning a climbing trip to the French Alps this summer. Could anyone suggest or give me any advice regarding possible routes around Chamonix. I am particularly interested in ten or so classic AD/D routes.
Thanks very much.
Forbes Arete (or Migot Spur)
Tour Ronde North Face
Aiguille de l'M. Doable from the Midi cable car.
+ Rochefort Arete
+ Brenva Spur
+ Frendo Spur
+ NE Ridge of the Aig de la Perseverance (when the other side of the valley is out of condition)
Here's 10 to be going on with:
Forbes ridge - Aig. du Chardonet
Frontier Ridge (Kuffner)- Mont Maudit
Brenva Spur - Mont Blanc
Frendo Spur - Aig. du Midi
Diable ridge - Mont Blanc du Tacul
Rochefort arete - Aig du Rochefort
SW Face - Dent du Geant
Aiguille du Moine South Ridge
Hirondelles Ridge - Grandes Jorasses
NE face - Les Courtes
These are all established classics so don't expect to have them to yourself (except perhaps the Hirondelles?) but that's Chamonix.
There's a bit of a ridge theme there, but classic routes at that grade tend to be ridges. There are plenty of classic rock climbs which used to get AD/D etc but as they're all done in rock shoes these days they tend to get rock grades now.
Get yourself a copy of Gaston Rebuffat's "100 classic climbs" for more ideas.
And finally, here's a recommendation for one route NOT to do Moine Ridge - Aig Verte. Whatever any guide book tells you, just don't be tempted!
However a few that haven't been mentioned are the Cordier and Corturier on the Verte, the Gervasutti on Tour Ronde. Bit of a gully/face theme from me.
Kuffner & Frendo are the two must do's IMO.
All excellent (though I've not done the Persevaerance route and didn't personally rate the Frendo). However, The Innominata Ridge tops the lot.
> Diable ridge - Mont Blanc du Tacul
> Hirondelles Ridge - Grandes Jorasses
These are just D in theory - they're all serious for the grade, expecially the Hirondelles, because of the approach and the descent from the Jorasses. I would not put them in the same list as the rest.
A very good real D climb in a very remote area is the "little Kuffner", the SW ridge of the Aiguille des Glaciers. A very good and not too serious real AD is the normal route of the Pointe de L'Innominata from the Monzino hut.
I did one summer back in 2000, it was plastered in snow, I can confirm that when the guidebook says considerably harder in full snow, it is correct! Great route, but it certainly had some moments on it.
Not sure how long the OP has to achieve his ten though!
Aig. de Bionassay NW face (AD+ a great snow climb which is usually in condition)
Mt Blanc Tournette Spur (probably D, super classic)
Aig. Savoie Preuss route (AD+ rock, very nice)
Aig. Argentiere, Jardin ridge (long rock climb, D)
Mt Dolent N Ridge (D)