UKC

Hi,
I'm planning a climbing trip to the French Alps this summer. Could anyone suggest or give me any advice regarding possible routes around Chamonix. I am particularly interested in ten or so classic AD/D routes.
Thanks very much.

In reply to tinks:
Forbes Arete (or Migot Spur)
Tour Ronde North Face
Whymper couloir

In reply to tinks:

Aiguille de l'M. Doable from the Midi cable car.

In reply to tinks: Chere Couloir. Cos that needs more people on it.

In reply to psaunders:
+ Kufner Arete = Frontier Ridge
+ Rochefort Arete
+ Brenva Spur
+ Frendo Spur
+ NE Ridge of the Aig de la Perseverance (when the other side of the valley is out of condition)

In reply to tinks:
Here's 10 to be going on with:

Forbes ridge - Aig. du Chardonet
Frontier Ridge (Kuffner)- Mont Maudit
Brenva Spur - Mont Blanc
Frendo Spur - Aig. du Midi
Diable ridge - Mont Blanc du Tacul
Rochefort arete - Aig du Rochefort
SW Face - Dent du Geant
Aiguille du Moine South Ridge
Hirondelles Ridge - Grandes Jorasses
NE face - Les Courtes

These are all established classics so don't expect to have them to yourself (except perhaps the Hirondelles?) but that's Chamonix.

There's a bit of a ridge theme there, but classic routes at that grade tend to be ridges. There are plenty of classic rock climbs which used to get AD/D etc but as they're all done in rock shoes these days they tend to get rock grades now.
Get yourself a copy of Gaston Rebuffat's "100 classic climbs" for more ideas.
And finally, here's a recommendation for one route NOT to do Moine Ridge - Aig Verte. Whatever any guide book tells you, just don't be tempted!

In reply to pec: The only ones I've done which haven't been mentioned are Left Edge and the direct on the Triangle du Tacul (Contamine Grisolle and Mazeud). Not really classics but worth a look for a short day and getting to height fairly easily as the difficulties are low down.

However a few that haven't been mentioned are the Cordier and Corturier on the Verte, the Gervasutti on Tour Ronde. Bit of a gully/face theme from me.

In reply to tinks: I have only been to the Alps once and I did some of these routes suggested. The Forbes Arete was magnificent for someone of my ability at the time (leading competent E1, very little snow and ice experience).

In reply to tinks:

Kuffner & Frendo are the two must do's IMO.

In reply to Solaris:

All excellent (though I've not done the Persevaerance route and didn't personally rate the Frendo). However, The Innominata Ridge tops the lot.

In reply to pec:


These are just D in theory - they're all serious for the grade, expecially the Hirondelles, because of the approach and the descent from the Jorasses. I would not put them in the same list as the rest.

A very good real D climb in a very remote area is the "little Kuffner", the SW ridge of the Aiguille des Glaciers. A very good and not too serious real AD is the normal route of the Pointe de L'Innominata from the Monzino hut.

In reply to pec:

I did one summer back in 2000, it was plastered in snow, I can confirm that when the guidebook says considerably harder in full snow, it is correct! Great route, but it certainly had some moments on it.

Not sure how long the OP has to achieve his ten though!

In reply to tinks: Here are a few more:

Aig. de Bionassay NW face (AD+ a great snow climb which is usually in condition)
Mt Blanc Tournette Spur (probably D, super classic)
Aig. Savoie Preuss route (AD+ rock, very nice)
Aig. Argentiere, Jardin ridge (long rock climb, D)
Mt Dolent N Ridge (D)