/ Dolomites Guide Book

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SCrossley on 01 May 2013
Hi,
I have come across but not seen the Alpine club Dolomites Guide book http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/publications/guidebooks.html#Dolomites is it for Rock Climbers or Alpinists if you see what I mean as these guides are not mentioned here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2633. The other guide, which I have is ok, but a translation from German and was wondering if the Alpine one would be superior.
Cheers sjc
davidbeynon - on 01 May 2013
In reply to sjc:

What grade are you aiming to climb?

If you aren't interested in stuff in the Es then these 2 guidebooks are excellent:

http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingShop/Western-Dolomites-One-Rock-Climbing-Guidebook.html

http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingShop/Western-Dolomites-Two-Rock-Climbing-Guidebook.html

I have a copy of the older edition of "Classic dolomite climbs", and have found it reasonably good, though other people have found accuracy problems. Maybe the 2008 edition fixes them.

In my experience the alpine club guide is great if you want to go out and have an adventure.
davidbeynon - on 01 May 2013
In reply to sjc:

I missed the other part of the question. The alpine club guide mostly consists of rock routes, although these include a lot of ridges etc.

Most of the ridges that would be scrambles elsewhere seem to have via ferratas running up them so they don't really figure.
SCrossley on 01 May 2013
In reply to davidbeynon:
Thanks I`ll check those out.
LJC - on 01 May 2013
In reply to sjc: The AC East and West are almost exclusively for rock routes. There is also the Memmel/Kohler Classic Dolomite Climbs. If you get that, take the topos with a pinch of salt. There is a really excellent Italian guidebook available out there for about 20. I don't remember the name, I just have photo topos from one we borrowed.
davidbeynon - on 01 May 2013
In reply to LJC:

I think the ones I linked to are a translation of the Italian guide.
henwardian - on 01 May 2013
In reply to sjc: I have the alpine club guides and classic climbs in the Dolomites guide. I'd agree that the classic climbs topos are often a bit inaccurate but generally it's a pretty user friendly guidebook. All the routes are good, the limiting factor is that there is almost nothing above about E2 in there. I used the Alpine club guide once or twice, I think my partners usually had a better guide (in German or Italian) for the routes we climbed, the Alphine club does give a lot more routes up to about E5 (above which it basically resorts to grading with aid grades) but I found the pitch descriptions a lot more cumbersome than a topo (I am very used to SMC guides, so this isn't just lack of experience on my part). Both guides are rock climbing only guides really, as others have said.

Recently bought the English translation of the Tre Cime guide, it's a very sexy book but I've not had a chance to use it yet. Enough hard routes to keep you busy for years no matter what grade you climb. But very area specific of course.
The Ivanator - on 02 May 2013
In reply to davidbeynon: I have the guides you linked to as well as Classic Dolomites Climbs and the Apine Club guide. The Western Dolomites volumes were consistently the ones we used when climbing and were accurate for all the routes we did and easy to follow with colour topos and pitch by pitch descriptions, they cover loads of classic lines in a wider area than the "western" tag might make you think, as David says only covers routes up to the low E grades, from UIAA III - VI, with the odd VII.
Erstwhile on 02 May 2013
In reply to sjc:

This was released on Tuesday (English edition available):
http://www.ideamontagna.it/librimontagna/libro-alpinismo-montagna.asp?cod=45

This southern end of the Brenta Dolomites is probably little known to Brits for rock climbing (aside from via ferratas). Not that well known to Italians, truth be told. However, it is one of the very best in terms of rock quality, landscape, and reasonably intact wilderness. The sort of place you have to walk in and sleep in the hut at the foot of a small glacier. Armed with this new guidebook you could spend a very satisfying trip in this valley. There is even a small ice filled cave to visit near the Agostini hut on a rainy day (the hut guardians will lend you crampons for free). You might even see wild bears (seriously).

At last (and slowly) some decent Dolomites guidebooks are being published to break the enduring myth that the best thing here is to drive around and do a dozen or so ancient polished classics. The Dolomites cover a huge area, best broken into chunks (about ten?) each of which can be visited and enjoyed in its own right.
Erstwhile on 02 May 2013
In reply to Erstwhile:

P.S. The Alpine Club guides are pretty poor.
jcw on 03 May 2013
In reply to sjc: You will also find in the sports shops and huts various regional guides with detailed topos which you can always look at if not buy
GridNorth - on 03 May 2013
In reply to sjc: Both. All the climbs in the summer season in the Dolomites are rock climbs although there are a few very easy routes and approaches that cross glaciers. The Dolomites are part of the alps and the climbs of such length and seriousness that they have always been considered alpine climbs.
LJC - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Erstwhile: We thought the AC guides were ok - at least they don't pretend to have accurate pitch by pitch topos!

For some reason the Dolomites gets lumped into one place. It's like us talking about 'climbing in Scotland', a rather broad term for an area which has lots of different things on offer.

What sort of climbing are you after? I'm sure ukc has some more accurate suggestions for books/routes/mountains if you narrow it down a bit.
SCrossley on 03 May 2013
In reply to sjc:
Thanks for all the replies. Dolomites will be a step up for me, lost 1.5 stone, gone up 2 grades and now huge things like this, I have stood at the foot of El Cap, well soloed the first 30` and if the routes in the Dolomites look anything like that, I will need bicycle clips I`m sure. Time to MTFU
sjc
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The Mole - on 03 May 2013
In reply to sjc: Have been twice and had two fantastic weeks on each trip never getting above VS. Yes, in places there is polish but nothing drastic, although admitedly we avoided the really notorious climbs on the Sella towers.

We found a combination of the classic climbs book and the AC guides perfectly OK. I have never been Yosemite but I don't think there is a free route on El Cap below E6. In comparison the Dolomites has loads of much freindlier but adenturous quality at HS-VS and no doubt plenty more above.

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