/ All day trad shoe recommendations
So anyone got any recommendations? Ideally they would be:
- Super Comfortable, this is the main aim.
- Stiff as possible. Mainly for foot support, but also have a good edge when I get on something harder.
- Be able to cope in the heat when my feet expand. So should be able to breath a bit, and stretch. I suffer really bad with hot feet.
- OK for a resole (The moccasyms are not).
- Ok for walking a short walks in like the descent from Gogarth Main.
- Bonus points if they are good for climbing cracks as i'm off to squamish later in the year.
Current Contenders are:
5.10 Hueco - They seem stiff, and made of leather so should stretch/breath ok.
la Sportiva Trantula - Come recommended by a mate, not tried them.
La Sportiva Mythos - Like the classic look of these, and they seem stiff enough. Don't really know much else about them. I cannot find a shop near me (Stockport) that sells them either. Anyone know of anywhere?
Any comments on the above 3 or any other recommendations?
Unless things have changed, Mythos wear a bit easily. You need to try the things on, so go to a shop with a good range and buy for fit.
Scarpa Force are v comfy for me and still technical enough for 'proper' climbing. Usually loads of pairs knocking around for cheap. Not right stiff though (I normally find stiff an comfy quite incompatible).
I use my 5.10 spires for just about everything and i have yet to have sore feet from them, even after long multi pitch days.
another vote for the previous model of Red Chili Sausalitos, the new ones unfortunately are not as stiff, although they are still quite stiff.
Aye, though I cannot find anywhere local that sells them. Not sure I am that interested if they wear too quickly. Thats why I am looking for a replacement for the Moccasyms, they are great, though they get real thin and sloppy pretty soon. And cannot be resoled. Though they are probably considered cheap at £80 these days!
You can buy cheap Scarpas for £40 or less (the Vantage in various sales). They are fine if they fit.
Thanks All. Will check out the Red Chillis and the Scarpas suggested by Jon. Thats if I can find em.
In general I would suggest that you go to a decent shop and try on as many shoes as possible. Go Outdoors currently seem to have a big range in Sheffield, covering several manufacturers.
Good luck with the quest!
so i'd recommend them. clearly.
From the pictures they seem to have a padded heel, is this the case?
I do like the sound of them, they seem to be exactly what i'm looking for.
Would recommend Mythos. Super comfortable for all day climbing and great performance. Durability is not a problem in my experience.
Have been told the rubber on Tarantulas is not that great.
Can't comment on the 5.10's.
You should be looking at Sportiva TC Pros; they meet most of your criteria and were designed for granite face- and crack-climbing on long routes.
Some of the shoes mentioned, like the Mythos, are good but are not at all stiff.
I think the new Evolv Valour is excellent. Very good value at £70 too.
I got my pair to review and will definitely be buying a new pair when they wear out.
Review here: http://info.rockrun.com/reviews/evolv-valor-review.html
Another vote for La Sportiva Mythos - I'm just about to invest £35 in having them resoled, but I've had them for well over 10 years.
I've not come across these, they do look like what I am after though.
Did you get them from the UK? I cannot track a pair down anywhere. The evolve boots above sound pretty similar, but I've not been impressed with other evolve shoes I've bought.
......but only if they fit your feet....like every other UKC outdoor footwear question along the lines of "I'm after XYZ and ABC and DEF and GHI in one piece of footwear"!
I'd too recommend La Sportiva TC Pros as their sole is stiff enough for edging on micros even with a comfortable size. They've designed for granite crack/microedge all-day climbing on a big wall. They also cover your ankle, protecting it when crack climbing. This feature also makes them a bit warmer – which is good if the weather is a bit colder. But they do have small holes in the side of the shoe to provide extra ventilation. Streches a half size. TC Pros also have a P3 mid-sole, which helps the shoe to maintain it's shape over time.
I have also Scarpa Forces as my all-day trad/multipitch shoe. They're not quite as stiff, but the friction is a bit better (XS Grip vs. XS Edge in TCPros). With velcros they're really easy and fast to take off at belays. Doesn't stretch much, as they're fully synthetic.
Seems that Scarpa has replaced XS Grip with XS Edge for their newer model Force X. I find them both really comfortable shoes. My feet are greek style (Morton's toe), otherwise quite average.
I hope this helps.
Its unlikely I will be able to actually see them in the flesh, though I am in spain in a few weeks but would like a pair sorted before then as we're off to riglos which is going to require some confortable all day shoes. Shame really as I do like Sportiva boots having had many pairs in the past.
From La Sportiva one could also consider the Katana Lace, which comes also with P3 rand and XS Edge. Especially if your feet are on the narrow side. Tried them on week ago and they were pretty comfortable as they have softish interior.
There's also an all-day trad shoe Scarpa Techno, but I've never seen a pair available in a shop. I guess they're an older model...
I hope you'll manage to find the shoes. There's a Barrabes Outlet in Huesca near Riglos, if you don't get it sorted beforehand :)
is it just where i am, or are TC pros almost double the cost of most other shoes?
Where are you and how much are they?
I cannot get a uk price, but in the states they appear to be $180! 10 more than the solutions.
Probably should have noted, it have really wide feet. Tried the katana laces before for sport climbing boots, shame they didn't fit. I've got Muira lace up and velcros instead.
I've had 5.10 Newtons and Spires. I bought the Newtons too small, so they were a bit painful, but the spires are great, I can wear them for hours without any hassle. Just wish they were a bit stiffer! I would have bought more newtons in the correct size, but I can't find them anywhere. :(
A mate had the newtons, they didn't last. I want a pair good for multiple resoles really.
I'm struggling to find anyone who actually sells the sportiva mythos...... Anyone know anywhere that isn't amazon?
Mine lasted for ages, and I'm a big fat sod. They do have a couple of design flaws though, like if you walk on slightly damp grass (as is often the case when walking off the top of any crag), your feet get wet.
most other shoes are between $100 and $160, but TC pros are $220!
i still like em tho.
I've got a pair of lace-up La Sportiva Jeckyls - http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/la_sportiva_jeckyl
They're great comfort-wise, and once the leather has shaped to your feet you can comfortably wear them for hours. The only real down-side is the dye they use - even after 6 months they still leave my feet bright orange.
as it goes was in a gear shop today. i tried some tarantulas on and had a 5min boulder in them.
very different shoe: much roomier toe box, not nearly as stiff and heel harder to lock down compared to TC pros.
more comfortable tho because they were more shoe-like and less forced (not that TC pros are very forced by climbing shoe standards tho).
my foot is scrawny, all tendon and bone, with slightly longer 2nd toe (enough to hurt in very asymmetric shoes). also, the TC pros and tarantulas are the only sportiva shoes that feel comfortable on me (other than running and climbing boots which i could have been the model for).
hope that helps.
Cheers, just noticed go outdoors stock them and quite a few of the scrapas that are recommended on here. Will head there today. Bonus as they are all cheap.
Highly recommend La Sportiva Mythos for all day trad. On my second pair plus a resole and will definitely buy another pair when these finally give out!
Mythos? Comfortable for a whole day out, yes, but stiff (as requested by theOP)they definitely ain't!
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