/ 30m rope long enough for easy alps?
for glacier / snow routes where there is no need for pitched climbing or abseils then yes perfectly fine.
and also fine for rock where there is no pitched climbing / abseils
Question is, with two people on the rope on glacier crossing, would 30m leave enough to set up a haul system for crease rescue?
Clearly not enough for an assisted hoist. If you believe a unassisted hoist would work with two people, perhaps just enough. If you are relying on prussiking out then no problem.
> Question is, with two people on the rope on glacier crossing, would 30m leave enough to set up a haul system for crease rescue?
> Clearly not enough for an assisted hoist.
No. I wouldn't want a rope that short.
I'd say it was a bit short, 15m abseils would make for a long descent! It depends on the route of course. A light 50m rope would be better and I there was a short more difficult pitch you could use it double.
So I wonder if this Decathlon cheapie would do the job??
Ive clibed alpine mixed routes upto TD- with a single 8.5mm half rope.
I'm off to Alaska in 2 weeks and will be taking a 45m 8mm rope.
> So I wonder if this Decathlon cheapie would do the job??
please tell me the above was posted as a joke?
get 50mts of quality single rope - your life might depend on it. i prefer 10mm for better grip especially when it's cold and wet.
"Does not withstand falls from height" would give me pause for thought.
You assume I'm competent enough to stay on route. I'm not. Therefore I have. :)
seriously though, I see rope as a different thing in alpine compared to cragging.
in alpine the rope isn't going to snap from a fall. but will get cut. a thinner rope will get cut far easier over a sharp edge, get ruined by skiing over it, or standing on it with crampons.
but for non technical snow plods which are essentially walking and not climbing short thin ropes are fine.
then again I see ropes as generally disposable items so if you want some longevity go for something thicker.
PD routes can have a pitch of 3 or 4 which is quite enough for a beginner to feel the need of a rope, especially if they are not accustomed to exposure. People do get into trouble even on PD routes, having a bit of extra rope is not a luxury if things go wrong. Apart from this buying a special rope for "snow plods" rather than just taking one half of a double rope doesn't seem cost efficient, it gives you a 50m rope, the weight of 15m of rope is no big deal.
That'd be my view as well. 30m of twin-rated 8mm is would be ideal for a pair on pretty much every Facile route I can think of and most (although not all) PD routes.
I can understand why some will see it as a rather limited bit of kit and hence prefer a longer rope for abseiling. As such, for those who already own a 50m/60m half rope, buying another shorter rope may make little sense.
However, for easy alpine use, especially on snow routes, I am not convinced by the arguments that a thicker rope is needed. Again, I'd concur with steveej, ropes are consumable and worrying about wearing them out doesn't make too much sense. Owning a large number of ropes and splitting use across the most suitable ones makes more sense to me than having a smaller number of thicker ropes on 'durability' grounds. Finally, in terms of a single PD route, I can't readily see how an 8mm rope is going to be massively more susceptible to damage from stone fall or abrasion than an 8.7mm rope, just because the former is rated as a twin rope and the later a single rope.
Short rope limits crevasse rescue options (e.g., dropped loop technique). This may be fine if you have a lot of other people around to assist you with their equipment, or if your team is sufficiently skilled and strong to operate with minimal resources.
Selecting an alpine route means doing your research and working out whether you need to abseil before you even start the approach.
For most standard non technical snow plods a 30m half rope or randonee rope will be fine.
If you have loads of rock, scrambling, pitched climbing, abseiling etc then you choose the appropriate rope, rack, and equipmemt for the task at hand.
Alpine climbing varies massively from walking along a glacier to climbing mixed vert terrain at altitude. Like comparing walking up easy path up ben nevis in winter and climbing grade X on the north face. Different things, different strategies, different gear required.
ENSA (L'École Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme ENSA de Chamonix) did tests on the different type of ropes and their suitability for glacier travel. They published their results on Youtube on 17 October 2012.
You might find that this information differs from some of the advice received above, but it is very recent research and their findings are based upon a scientific methodology.
A complementary video by ENSA focuses on glacier travel for pairs, 2:27 onwards - considerations for your length of rope length if you wish to use knots in the rope to safeguard yourself, 2:50. Tie-in lengths, knot length, coils + distances suggests that 30m might be tight...
Not really a joke - just wondered what people thought. I've always used either a 50m half rope (for easier glacier snow plods) or a 50m lightweight single rope.
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