UKC

This Friday we have the first of two videos from Wild Country in which James Pearson shares his secrets for training stamina. If you don't want to get pumped at the first clip - follow James' advice!

I was interested to watch this video as I remember that a few years ago James was primarily a boulderer and hard grit headpointer, and he said himself that stamina and endurance were his biggest weaknesses...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68048

In reply to UKC News:

question for the training gurus:

How long would you 'cycle' endurance training for. Assuming 2/3 session as week, would you expect to see any gains over 4-6 weeks? Or non linear cycles? 16 sessions as often as you can fit one in with an irregular schedule?

In reply to Kemics:
Depends on your goals.If you are training in between regular climbing trips or days out trying a project I would think short and sharp 4 week cycles.With plenty of resting between very hard sessions.
If you are training for a distant trip on the horizon 6 weeks doing anaerobic training on say 15,30 and 50 move circuits(and rts if you have a training partner).
Then perhaps 4 weeks adaption where you can focus more on specifics so if perhaps if you are training for 30-40m rts,to do this a good thing to do is to replicate similar angles and also contact time to ready the body for the 'recovery'demands of such routes.
Nothing written in stone depends so much on the individual.