/ Bavarian Alps (UIAA) Grades for Brits

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Lizard - on 10 May 2013
I know comparing grade systems is fraught with doom and dispair but I recently acquired a guidebook to the climbing in bavarian alps (Best of Genuss 2) and am trying to get a picture of the UIAA grades.

One of my best climbing experiences was climbing the Espolón Central, Puig Campana in Spain which Rockfax gave HS (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=22506). Looking through my German guidebook, it looks like the Bavarian alps have loads of routes similar to this one- i.e. bolted stances, 8+ pitches, some loose stuff, fair amounts of fixed gear, low technical difficulty (sport 4/5),- but maybe I am misunderstanding the UIAA grade (?).

A route like Fahrradlkante, Wetterstein (UIAA 5-) (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=149330) should be similar to Espolon in Spain (ok- maybe less sun!). Is this a bad or fair comparison?

pheotleyr - on 10 May 2013
In reply to Lizard: UIAA grades can mean quite different things in different areas, but basically UIAA 5- with bolts on the difficult parts (as the Fahrradlkante is supposed to have) should roughly amount to HS.
jimtitt - on 11 May 2013
In reply to pheotleyr:
With all the delights Hard Severe can occasionally deliver! I´ve solo´d 5-´s and have to severely man up on other 5-´s, there´s a few in the Dolomites which come into the latter category.

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