/ What new harness?
BD aspect is a nice all rounder. Adjustable legs, 5 loops, clipper slots. Not the lightest but all the bits
funnily enough i've just got a BD aspect - v good though I have to say the gear loops are disappointingly small (the only issue I have with it and depends how big your normal rack is).
Another vote for the BD Aspect
I tried a wild country syncro for a couple of months which I found very comfy for sport but I couldn`t get on with the overlapped gear loops so have gone back to a DMM Renegade, 6 loops + a rear loop, ice screw fitments and comfy, got mine from fell and mountain at Accrington for a good price.
What do you mean by 'double waist buckles'? Do you mean the waist loop has 2 buckles so you can center it effectively? Or double back buckles?
I'm guessing two buckles like on the old Petzl Guru (replaced with the Gurou?) which were the traditional doubleback rather than ziplock speed undo style.
The DMM Renegade has a floating "padded bit" that can slide along the main webbing strap. Works brilliantly to centre all the gear loops and seems a good solution.
DMM Renegade for winter and long trad.
Something cheap and light for indoor, sport and short trad (eg. BD Ozone or something similar).
The renegade also has 7 gear loops, so plenty for whatever you climb, which angle down to the front so you gear doesn't get hidden behind your back! Very comfy aswell!!
Might be some bargains to be had on the Renegade due to the Renegade 2 coming out ;-)
I bought a DMM Super Couloir to use as a winter specific harness, but found that I like it so much I use it year round.
Admittedly that's a bit of a left field suggestion, but I find it is the best harness I've had (and I've tried loads over the years).
Lightweight, plenty of gear loops, easy to put on, comfortable enough.
Camp Air - very light, reasonably priced, does what it says on the tin in both summer and winter
Petzl corax has double buckles so you can centre it, I'm on my second. Mind you, is that was you have already?
Bit heavy though, Hirundos is nice and light , read Es Tresidder's review on here.
I've been using the Hirundos as an alpine harness for nearly a year and it's very light and comfortable to wear around. But I've noticed just recently, doing some trad (which it is not specifically designed for) that involved more abseiling, that it would not be great to hang around in, not comfortable, seems to need more padding or a different design. Or maybe I do...
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