/ Beal joker?

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ray - on 11 May 2013
On a budget and need to replace my half ropes. Give that most of the time i am climbing single pitch limestone, trad and sport, was thinking of getting a beal joker 60 m to use for everything. Double it for trad when needed single for sport. One rope not three. Anyone tried this? My only thought was how long the rope would last, in terms of abrasion rather than fallls.
ray - on 11 May 2013
In reply to ray: Or even a serenity 8.9 which are rathercheap at the mo.
ray - on 11 May 2013
In reply to ray: Or, maybe a 60m half rope doubled for trad single pitch, and a lightish 60m single for sport and teaming with the half for winter and multipitch. More expensive but more versatile.
Jock - on 11 May 2013
In reply to ray:
I have a Joker - great for single-appropriate trad & winter but it's scary slick for sport. Make sure you're using a grippy device & switched on belayer!
In reply to ray: It's not great for sport if you are working routes, you don't want to fall on them too much just because they wear, but otherwise - they're great all-rounders. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3765
Enty - on 11 May 2013
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to ray) It's not great for sport if you are working routes, you don't want to fall on them too much just because they wear, but otherwise - they're great all-rounders. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3765

Totally agree. Working sport routes really wears out the end few metres very rapidly.
However I can get them from a shop in Sisteron for 135 for 80m so I get a new one every year anyway.
I'd have no qualms about doubling it up for trad leading though.

E
jon on 11 May 2013
In reply to Enty:

But the difference between climbing/belaying with your Joker and my much harder wearing but nowhere near so pleasant to handle Simond/Decathlon is incredible! Joker every time, I think.
ray - on 11 May 2013
In reply to ray: thanks, my main concern was the wear, but as i don't tend to work routes i think i may get one. the mammut serenity is tempting tho, 120 quid for 60m!
Enty - on 11 May 2013
In reply to jon:

Yep that's the bonus. That Orange Simon thing i had was pretty crap - hard wearing on El Cap though.

<You out today?>

E
The Ex-Engineer - on 11 May 2013
In reply to ray: Great ropes to use but we completely trashed one when mountaineering (sheath abraded open for tens of cm) in Scotland this winter so I'd say people are right to be concerned about their durability.

I personally don't think mixing ropes between harder/longer sport and trad routes ever works very well.

I am a great fan of having a shorter (hence cheaper) single rope for general use on both sport and trad routes to save the wear on my longer sport rope and half-ropes. I've considered other options for trad including 30-40m half ropes or doubling a 60m half but have always come back to the fact that I still want/need a traditional pair of 50m x 8.5mm half ropes even if much of my single pitch trad climbing is done on a 30m x 9.7mm single or on partners' ropes.
TRip - on 11 May 2013
In reply to ray:

By the sounds of things you probably need a pair of 50m half ropes for trad and cheap single for sport and indoor.

Why don't you buy a budget pair of 50m Half ropes like Mammut Obsession. Available here for 150 for a pair. http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Ropes/Half-Ropes/Obsession#.UY5zgXf9yS... If your mates have ropes then just get one to pair with theirs.

Then get a cheap single. This looks like a good deal. http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Ropes/Single-Ropes/97-Classic-Special-...

60m is proablable more versitle and can but cut down, but 50m is shorter , more manageable and more than long enough for most UK crags.

I haven't used the Joker, but have owned both Edelrid Swift and Mammut Serenity. They're great ropes I've mainly used mine for easy rock climbing and alpine climbing. If you are the sort of sport climber who onsights lots of 6s to get fit for trad then great. However if you are into working routes I would look at something more durable.

HTH
alasdair19 on 12 May 2013
In reply to The Ex-Engineer: how did you trash.it ? I ask nervously having just invested!
silo - on 12 May 2013
In reply to ray:I use an 80m and it works well. when I tie in to the middle I use a bowline as it makes a smaller knot!
mmmhumous on 14 May 2013
In reply to ray:

I've got a 60m serenity 8.9mm, only been out once or twice, but It's definately not an everyday rope......the sheath is very thin

It's a rope that can do everything, not one that should be used for everything. Mine's reserved for Ice (when I need a twin), and when it's really only possible to take one rope with me. e.g. I'll be taking it to El Chorro this year.

As others have said these types of ropes are skinny and slick - belayers beware. Also, it could just be me, but when using it as a single on lead, it doesn't instill as much confidence as my chunky 10.2mm


I wouldn't recommend it as an 'everyday rope' but 120 for a 60m 3-in-1 8.9mm serenity is an absolute bargain! The joker is slightly thicker at ~9.1mm so may be more resilient to wear. I suppose it comes down to how well you'regoing to treat it.

jon on 14 May 2013
In reply to mmmhumous:

>
> It's a rope that can do everything, not one that should be used for everything.

That's about the best and most helpful comment I've ever read on here. I agree completely.
needvert on 14 May 2013
In reply to ray:

When people are cautioning that these ropes wear out fast, are they referring to the sheath or the core?

Been thinking about a superskinny rope, if its the sheaths that are wearing out then I don't mind so much.
thomaspomfrett on 14 May 2013
In reply to ray: You could buy a cheapish single for sport and just one double (halved) for trad. Only two ropes rather than three and works fine unless you're doing long trad pitches or abseils.

I've got a beal joker and I use it as an alpine rope and for trad but I wouldn't want to use it much for sport (not that I climb much sport admittedly)
spidermonkey09 - on 14 May 2013
In reply to ray: I've got a 60m joker, haven't had it long but basically it comes down to how much redpointing you do. If you don't do that much seriously then go for it, they are incredible to climb on, clipping is a dream.
mmmhumous on 14 May 2013
In reply to needvert:
> (In reply to ray)
>
> When people are cautioning that these ropes wear out fast, are they referring to the sheath or the core?
>
> Been thinking about a superskinny rope, if its the sheaths that are wearing out then I don't mind so much.

It's the Sheath (can't talk from personal experience, mines still silky smoothe after ~500m of ice and 100m of multipitch.

Page 7 sums it up really though: https://d1qxh2iwg385ci.cloudfront.net/images/Mammut_Seilfibel_E_web_11129.pdf
andic - on 14 May 2013
In reply to ray:

Its a good rope, but I keep mine "for best" ie trips to mountains or when I am going to pair it with a partner's rope). For most of my climbing (peak and indoors) I can get away with a 30m python which is tough as old boots.


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