In reply to Siward:
> (In reply to Trangia) That's very true but fresh snow isn't so likely to necessitate ice axe/cramps- I could get by with walking poles. It's the old hard patches that pose a potential problem.
Exactly right-- and it's been a big winter for snow, it's never got very warm since, and it's turning cold again right now. So you have every chance of running into unavoidable old hard snow/ ice. This can happen in July, never mind May. Take the kit then you don't have to worry about it, would be my advice. In fact if you've got the kit you can design your ascent route around as many gully-strips of ice as you can find. On a warm, sunny day, hacking up a hard old gully is an absolutely brilliant feeling. I love it when you get your shadow on the snow behind you just as you're topping out. A real Alpine moment. But only available if you pack the axe and the crampons!