UKC

What a week!!!!
Well done:
Eagle River first 8a
Needkraken first 6A
Nothern Clamberer first trad lead
Exile first v7
Nomics - first E2
and everyone else

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (320) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=548614

Eagle River - about bloody time! Well Done mate
Ali - hope your feeling better?
grubes - train harder!!
NeedKraken - Well done on your first 6A
Joughton - Well done on getting up to pule thats my local crag. ANd weel done on the pe session
mbh - hope the calf is okay?
Northernclamberer - Well done on your first trad lead
Biscuit - fingery bouldering? training for malham
NMN - well done on the VS
Porkpiegirl - Mescalito done yet?
IainRUK - not a good run and finished 6th is not a bad run really?
Luke Owens - NOOO!! so close. take it you did it this week?
Stevemarkperry - 5 days on nice!
Sankey - well done on the 6c good luck with the 7a+
Leon - nice week and well done on the 6c
Exile - well done on the V7
Kevster - sounds like a great weekend in the peak
Jimmykay - sorry weekend did not end up how you wanted it. There is always another Weekend/trip/project to keep you going
Mattrm - how did the ultra go?
Curious Yellow - nice progress on your project next session
Daniel HEath - awesome weekend in pembroke!
Si dH - hope you enjoyed the holiday
Nomics4sale - Well done on the E2 did nik make you second his new route :P
AJM - Well done with the sketching :P
allysmith - well done putting projects to bed. Hope my flying trip to spain is as successful.
Ian Bell - all the best hope the ankle gets beeter soon
Twigger - sounds like a fun weekend in the lakes. Shame about the blood rain!
Useful - sounds like an awesome weekend in pembroke
Maria85 - sounds like a great cool of weeks

Sats posters for next few weeks
19/5 : Ali
26/5 : grubes
2/6 : grubes
9/6 : Eagle river
16/6 : Grubes
23/6 : Eagle river
30/6 : Grubes
Thanks all who are doing it.

In reply to grubes:

Thanks mate, much appreciated.

M-Pembroke
T-
W-PE Circuits
T-
F-PE Circuits
S-Pull ups
S-3 mile Run

I think I'll pack in the boxing. Last week I felt I just wasn't quick enough. I know that some skill will come with persistance, but it's not a priority, and I've been so inspired by climbing outdoors that climbing feels bigger again

First pull ups and run in a long time, felt reasonable considering.

Diet going well, just need to do more of what I'm doing I think.

Probably do some campusing closer to the competitions.

Ta
Dan

In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes - I'm chuffed!

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Concentrating on 7a+ / some last minute fast weight loss at moment.

Bit of an easier week this week as I was feeling a bit frazzled.

Weeks training:

M: Rest
T: Evening. 2 hrs climbing, Castle Rock. Should have got on Ivy League really but couldn't resist Lakes trad as the weather was so good. Led Romantically Challenged (E1,) (first trad lead of the year without ice tools,) and seconded Gazebo, (HVS.) Found the climbing on both easy, which was another good affirmation about the training I've put in through the winter. We did joke that all the dynamic climbing at the wall goes a little to pot though when running it out above a tied off sapling!
W: Evening. 50min road / xc run
T: Rest
F: Morning: 30 min hill reps. Evening, 1hr 30 PE traverses at wall.
S: Rest
S: 2hrs climbing. Back on Ivey League. Very cold, (that's the problem with climbing between 7.30 and 9.30am!) so not the most effective session. However got the top more sorted and did the route on TR in two overlapping sections. Time to start RPing I think!

Feel more rested now, but need to make sure I don't overdo the training for training's sake and then arrive at the routes I want to do not on form.

In reply to Exile:

m: 14.3 miles steady pace, saw a bike for sale at a farm, so ran back to rostock and out to buy bike.. so longer than predicted.. 7:20 pace..
t: 9.5 miles with 7 at 6:30 pace.. 20 miles on the road bike..
w: 12.85 miles at 6:40 pace.. nice loop
t: 12.6 miles on trails steady pace.
f: 15.5 miles at 6:50 pace..
s: easy 4.5 after transatlantic flight
s: 14 mile sat 7:00 min mile pace.. trails and road..

nice week.. lots of decent mileage.. just shy of 85 miles for the week..

In reply to grubes: mescalito is way of being done by the girl of pork pie.. but i'm chipping away at it... as it's kicking my backside.. it's like it plants a few massive round house kicks on my chomps and i respond by flicking it's earlobe with my pinky. good job i'm too dense to give up

Every time i get on it i make progress... leading as much as i can every session, falling off a lot and not using the clip stick to get the rope up the first two thirds that i'm foussing on.. nowhere near ready to invest any time in final third section yet. enjoying the process.. slowly getting stronger and more decisive. endurance is certainly the issue now.

i have decided to provide shorter updates as generally i have nothing new to report because evey week i do pretty much he same fitness sessions and the same warm up routes and project at malham. (consenting followed by mescalito) can't see that changing any time soon.. and don't want it to.. i have enough spice in my life right now (sort of) so variety isn't an issue.

so last week... 6 bike sessions (4 turbo and two outside and hilly) 2 weight training sessions inc wide grip pull ups, 3 core sessions, 4 sessions at malham. sore arm from repeatedly (for two sessions) locking off on a wide pinch on my project until i decided that i can just about reach the next hold if i use the massive undercut.. so rested arm today and just cycled

next week will look the same .. minus locking off on the wide pinch.. unless i have a brain fart... again

PPG

In reply to grubes: re ER and 8a.. about time??? he's got that super quick i reckon...

In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 12st (not sure)

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - ITB
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - 40 miles, 2800m ascent
S - Rest

My idea of tapering is that it's basically a good excuse to do nothing. So I did DIY instead. The ultra went amazingly well, despite horrible conditions. 30-40mph wind, freezing level a 900m (and the max height is 886m) so it was cold. Coupled with rain and hail, I was very happy with an injury free 11 hours and 49 mins. No idea on positions, they've not released the results yet. As I thought I'd DNF due to my knee, I wasn't expecting to finish. So was very relaxed and un-stressed. Which made a massive difference.

Now to pick another race for the next 3 UTMB points. And do a bit more climbing and less running.

In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes,

Busy week, posted bank hol Monday in last week's post. Not a lot of actual route tickage, but plenty of volume - 5 7cs, 4 7b+s - gotta help the fitness.

Tues: Indoors, nothing too tough/trying.
Weds: Run then pull up session.
Thurs: Rest/travel
Fri: Outside - Cuttings. A number of burns (maybe 5?) on HOM. First 2 goes were really good - just reacquainting the route and clips, then the friction disappeared with a faint mist and the ganky crimp/corner stopped all subsequent attempts. I am still soooooooo close! and have been for 2 years! Can't wait to put that baby to bed and move on.
Retired to Infernal Din for 2 goes. Got all the moves quickly, just a little refinement needed. For those who know it, does it go direct in the lower section, or does it step right then back left - almost into European flavour?
Sat: Portland - 2 bashes at Road Rage - The moves are not hard, its just a crimp stamina fest. Friday impacted and I decided to do other routes after as my stamina was fading on the 2nd go.
7a OS, 6c OS and a couple of lower 6's.

Old man of hoy is rescheduled to August now.

Training for the next 2 weeks with the next trip being Tremadog in early june, though a couple of day trips will be put in between now and then.
I seem to have a trad heavy summer, but would like to tick over on sport too.


This week: Indoors once, FB once, arms once, run once.

Brief goal thoughts:
STG - Beast myself on the arms/finger board & run more.
STG/MTG - Sport 7b+/7c, Trad E3/E4
MTG-LTG - Sport get on 8a, Trad consolidate E2/3 and E4 OS.

Thanks all, Kev

In reply to grubes:

M - 7.1 miles trail, 2 at sub 7:30
W - 5 miles, road in Brighton (got lost), plus 15 hours of driving
Sa- am 5 miles road, slow (ie 8-8:30 pace), 2 km swim, pm 3 mile walk on Bodmin Moor around De Lank quarry - highly recommended, then 10 miles run home, trail, slow.
Su am 13.2 miles slow, trail, went to go swimming but there was a gala on. A silent cheer, as always when this happens. pm 4 miles road, 2 at sub 7:30.

A strange week, with all sorts going on. 44 miles of running, but only 4 of those at "fast" for me. So, more X in my Y needed. Still, I've averaged 40 miles a week for the last 3 months and got to 1420 or so for the last 12 months. And I've lost weight again. BMI now 22.6, down from 28 a year ago. That's 15 kg gone, almost 20% of me!

In reply to Kevster:


I hear ya. you looked well close on it last year, stick with it - good cuttings conditions happen over the summer, you just need to be ready in the right place at the right time.


What the 2007 guide says is (from memory, something like) 'The first crux can be bypassed on the right if needed, but that's cheating of course'. When I did it, I took a couple of steps left from the horn at clip 3, and climbed pretty direct on the bolt line past clip 4. This was the crux of the route for me and IMHO is integral to the route. It does require quite a big span however, if you can't make the span it makes sense to go up on the right. IMHO the right hand sequence is best regarded an easier but not as good variation that skips the first boulder problem. Enjoy, I thought it was a really cool route and great companion to HOM.

In reply to mattrm:

Great effort! I can't comprehend running that far

In reply to mbh:

wow it's cool to compare yourself to 1 year ago, that's some weight loss.

Often we celebrate success in a short time frame (2 kgs in a week wooo) and then lapse back but keep it quiet.

15kg in one year is much more impressive imo as your efforts have clearly been sustained

In reply to grubes: Thank you kindly for the honourable mention!

Not the best week in the world for me. Really wanted to consolidate on last week and attack every diff and vdiff I could find but finding a partner seemed impossible. The weather was good and I was demoralised. Decided positivity was needed so I made plans! A weekly plan, an indoor bouldering plan, an indoor plan and a trad plan. The weekly plan goes something like this:

Be nice to yourself
Monday - Rest (unless weather good)
Tuesday - wall
Wednesday - boulder or trad
Thursday - Rest (unless weather good), morning run
Friday - Outside trad or boulder and yoga
Saturday - all day trad or rest, run if feel like it
Sunday - all day trad or wall/boulder if not outside all weekend, rest if out Sat (unless weather is really good!)

Unfortunately it the reality for this week was:
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Rest (Weather lovely, no partner to be found, could not face indoors....)
Wednesday: Bouldering (with plan!)
1 warm up route,
7 other problems in sets of 3 (so try 3 times then move on).
20 goes in all.
3 goes at campus board (with feet) on big rungs, once on little rungs. Felt far more focused and for more knackered with this approach. Obviously all the problems were just easy ones, I'm just a bit rubbish!
Thursday: First run since ?January due to horrid injuries. 5.27km in 36.47 mins. I don't run fast anyway and I popped a hill in just for sadism. To be honest, I was happy to still be able to keep going for 37 minutes!
Weather lovely, no partner......
Friday: Yoga session, followed immediately by indoor bouldering.
Same system, 26 goes in all over 9 routes.
Up and down (with feet) big rungs x3 , up middle rungs (f/o) x 3, up less of small rungs (f/o) x 3
Saturday: Trad mission (having finally found someone to come out!), weather iffy, kept drizzling, abbed in, friend led vdiff I did last week, it rained more, I seconded, it felt hard and greasy . Started to piss down, left. Should have gone to the other side of the island where it was sunny all day. Grr.
Sunday: Rest, stuff (life) going on, generally pissed off at not being able to make more of the good weather.

Also started a food diary and thought about visiting the nutritionist.

In reply to grubes: Quiet week since the bank holiday. Slightly tweaked knee so main focus is on recovering that at the moment (is a recurring patella tracking problem).


T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Cicruit board at Edge, 5+,6a+,6b+ and then working the 6c+
S: Exercise bike 30 mins

STG: Start aerobic stuff for summer trip to Alps+More 7a's

MTG: 7a+ Appetite

LTG: 7b I guess, why not!

In reply to NorthernClamberer:

Keep up the food diary!

You might not appreciate this but in the hazy and controversial world of Nutrition I've got to recommend you Martin Macdonal. I personally take most of what he says as word, and he has a lot to say against common misconceptions. http://www.mac-nutrition.com/ I met him in person today, really nice guy

Make your own judgment of course, and I hope the food plan leads to some healthy decisions

In reply to NorthernClamberer:

Personally, at your level, I wouldn't bother with campusing just yet. You just need to focus on technique. It's all about that at the lower grades. You just don't need much strength. So far (for me) it's all been about endurance up to HVS/E1. After that you need finger strength and power. Just my thoughts tho.

When I'm up in Orkney on holiday (September), if you're stuck for a partner, I'll bring my shoes, lid and harness, if you're super desparate. The climbing up there looks lovely.

Dan - thanks for that. It's not that hard, you're walking 50% of the time. Aren't you in the military or summat? Don't you have to do that sort of thing. Saw guys out on exercise doing the Fan Dance stuff. Quite a way with a 35lb bergen. Grim.

In reply to grubes:

Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Castle. Boulder, short campus, pullups, pressups etc.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Biscuit Factory, green circuit. Only did 10 or so but felt broken.
Sat - Castle. Bouldered for about an hour.
Sun - Millstone. 2nd The Mall and led Lambeth Chimney, then seconded Ali up Great Portland Street, by the time I topped out it was evident that the rain was only going to get worse... feeling keen for trad though

Kev - what Nick said about Infernal Din. I spent two days last year trying to find a way to do that section straight up and then gave up on it. I've come back to it this year having decided to step right rather than not do the route but if anyone has any short arms beta, please mail me!

In reply to mattrm:

I don't have to do much "tabbing" at Uni, although some of my mates like to do Para 10 for fun.

I've run a half marathon in boots, but since haven't bothered for fear of injury. I'll train that kind of fitness before officer training which is over a year away!

In reply to grubes: thankies, I'm glad I finally ticked one, even tho it wasn't my project its onwards and upwards from here!

This week started with the end of the awesome bank holiday but my climbing since then has been a little slow, but this was kinda needed as I've been uber tired this week! Need to change up my goals a bit I think as well

old goals
STG - boulder 6a , get more confident outdoors, keep the psyche
MTG - 6b sport, E1 trad on second, get psyche to lead
LTG - to not be the one in the group that people have to lower their grade for

M - Best day of the bank holiday weekend, went to froggatt with Grubes, seconded an E1 win, 2 HVS and most importantly I led two VDiffs both of which I felt confident, happy and still focused on my feet
T - sunburnt ouch
W - indoor session (stupid rain) played on the circuit board and led the worlds hardest 5+, keeping the psyche and feeling strong
T/F/S - Lazy with too much alcohol and a big concert with my band on the sat
S - morning Holmfirth session before the rain came in, repeated a load of lines, closer to my project but was generally tired and a bit broken

New goals

STG - boulder more 6a's , get more confident outdoors, keep the psyche, second whatever my friends climb & lead every session I can
MTG - 6b sport, lead S by choice, get psyche to lead routes I chose
LTG - to feel I can push myself on lead, be stronger, find routes I really want to do

In reply to mattrm: agree re campusing but if it's something you're just enjoying guess there's no harm if you don't go too mad trying really hard stuff at first.. i've not tried doing it yet.. i would if our wall had one tho... i do campusing on boulder routes sometimes and really enjoy it.. but is an elbow killer if ye not careful

northern ..like the idea of you always having a plan that consists of a couple of different options on the days you plan to climb regardless of weather or partners... will mean you always tick your objectives for the week

In reply to grubes:
Holiday was great thanks Grubes, lots of sun and 30 degrees +, lots of time on beach, swa some nice places, and want to go back. Crete is surprisingly mountainous although all the rock I saw looked a bit rotten. Dont know how much climbing there is?

STG (spring): Onsight at least 2-3 new E2s on grit then try to get maybe 2 grit E3s done. Also do an E3 in Wales while away over Easter (possibly on slate). [DONE 2 GRIT E3S NOW AND 3 OTHERS THIS YEAR, SO CONSIDER THIS A SUCCESS] MTG (summer): Onsight at least 3 E3s & maybe an E4 on peak limestone and at least 2 E3s further afield eg Wales or South coast. Redpoint at least 1 F7b/+ to help keep fitness levels up. [1 PEAK LIME E3 TO DATE] LTG (autumn): Onsight another 3 E3s on grit and an E4 either on limestone or grit.

M-T: hols
W: alter rock. Bouldered for half an hour then started some ancap work, but felt a finger tweak so stopped
T: rest
F: not much but did 50 chinups i.think, didnt want to pull on anything small
S: rest
S: water cum jolly. Did Rubicon (7a) 1st rp, tried a 7a+ on the wcj cornice a couple of times, should have gone really but I didnt get my act together. Then did all the moves on brachiation dance (7b+) twice - want to go back for this on next sport trip. Really good route, but very steep so too many attempts = getting knackered quickly!

Cheers, Si

In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes.

Not training for Malham but it's good to have your weaknesses highlighted ( or your arse kicked in other words ) now and again.

Thanks to seankenny and PPG for turbo trainer tips. It's made a lot more sense this week. It appears you can change gears on the bike and that can make it easier or harder. Who'd have thought it ?

A good solid week really that ended better than i thought. I wasn't expecting to get out but got to touch real rock 2ce and despite having 2 days off i only missed out on the press ups.

M - Rest - felt quite 'empty' so didn't do anything.

T - Life got in the way ( tbh i think i let it get in the way) so nothing done.Felt guilty.

W - Turbo trainer warm up/down and 25mins @ 155bpm
Test session for weighted hangs - 30% added to bodyweight. Need to buy some more weights.
Swam in a lake for 1st time. Totally thrown my rythmn and technique. Not sure if it's the wetsuit or the open water thing but my breathing has gone to pot resulting in me hyperventilating like mad and going dizzy in the middle of the lake. Need to slow it down but couldn't find a stroke pattern that worked. ALso first swim for about 5 or 6 weeks so it felt hard.I didn't see any lake monsters but totally bricked myself on the first swim across when a 4ft long snake decided to join me. Turned out to be a grass snake but it got my heart rate going mental for a while until i saw what it was properly.

T - Intervals on turbo trainer 50min session. Not completed due to exhaustion but much better than last week.
Weighted hangs proper session. I reckon i can do more though it's hard to judge so will stick with 30% for now.

F - Turbo trainer. warm up/down and 30mins at 155bpm
Weighted pull ups and one arm session.

S - Bouldering. Didn't get back on the project as partners wanted to go to a different area. Amongst other stuff i did a highball 6B+, a 6C/+ long ( 20+ move ) technical traverse and what i was told was a 7A. Didn't feel like it to me really i'd say 6C+ max.It was a 3 move wonder followed by a grovelling mantelshelf on slopey nothingness. So 3 problems in different styles all done in a session. Maybe i am not as weak as i thought. Why do i always assume that's the problem when i've climbed badly ?

S - Routes. Cried take in the 6b warm up 3 times. In fairness it was not a nice climb and it was in the sun and very greasy and i have many other excuses as well. My target route ( 30m steep 7a ) was busy so i set to work toproping my mates 7b+ project for the day. It had a brick hard steep start involving dynoing off a 2 finger pocket with your legs feeling like they were in the splits. It then got harder ! Really sustained but brilliant climbing. Rested lots but did all the moves. SO again i am strong enough but not fit enough. The guys on my project couldn't get to the top so i ended up bolt to bolting it on their gear and got it all first go with a few hangs. Lots of chalk around so hard to see what was good and what wasn't. A bit run out in places and didn't feel nervous so all good. Not got the PE to put together the crux sequence of the last 5 metres with out a rest.

It would appear i am lacking in PE. I've not got around to putting my training board back up. When i was using that i got 7b in a session a couple of times. Maybe the two are connected ?

This week:

Mrs Biscuit gets back tomorrow night so hope to get a bit done this week

Put training board back up - QUICK

3 x turbo trainer with brick runs after
1 x real bike ride
1 x swim in a lake
1 x weighted hangs
1 x pull ups/one arm session
1 x press ups antagonist session
1 x boulder
1 x routes

In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.

M: - nothing.
T: - Stanage Popular routes.
W: - 4.89m hills, 3,096ft.
T: – 4.09m trail run, 386ft.
F: - 6.05m trail run, 685ft.
S: - nothing.
S: - 5.9m hills/trail, 2,216ft.

In reply to biscuit: i think you need to wear a weight belt on ye pal's 7b+ project to really feel the benefit of the two finger pocket whilst in the splits dyno move... sounds horrid!


can you measure watt output on ye turbo trainer? i find that really makes me push myself hard... almost puked after my session yesterday... wish all the cardio and leg work benefitted my climbing more! i ate a bag of haribo star mix from the vending machine at the gym before i did my weights to save myself passing out! that's my excuse anyway

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Fair enough. The bergens did look massive. Have to wonder what is in them. Ammo I guess? Bit of food? What else? Road running in boots can't be good for you. Should be ok on soft ground like the Beacons tho. Amusingly one guy asked us for directions. I nearly went go 'over there' where over there was the wrong way and then run away going 'we're the enemy'. But he had a gun. So decided against it. Was amused by the camo and orange fluro bits as well. Some of them were really shifting it tho. I was impressed.

In reply to grubes: Yeah feel mostly better cheers grubes!

M - reported last week, Millstone
T - Street orienteering - felt knackered and full of cold, but got round ok.
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - Biscuit Factory - Sloper circuit! Did hardly any problems, but tried hard and could definitely feel my 'sloper' muscles burning. Problems really good which made me a bit more psyched for trying slopers!
S - Short, easy run - 39mins
S - Millstone - Led The Mall (VS), seconded Lambeth Chimney then led Great Portland Street which I found harder than I expected (both mantle move and scary run out at top!). Rained off.

Bit of a long shot, but I'm up in Bolton next weekend and have a free day Saturday to potentially get out somewhere - only thing is I don't have a car (though could probably get train to suitable places) and I need to be back in Bolton for 5 (as got a wedding in the evening), which I appreciate doesn't generally fit great into a climbing day! However if anyone's up that way and wants to get out/doesn't mind a tag along would be great to get out

In reply to pork pie girl: That's my plan! If I'm too rigid, I'll get frustrated so have tried to think about how much of any one thing I want to do and allow myself to mix things up across the week. The main thing is to remind myself that this is also about enjoyment!

Daniel Heath: Trying to avoid 'dieting' and find a sustainable diet that will give me energy to do things but help me lose a fair amount of weight. Would be interested on what you're doing to achieve weightloss.

In reply to Needkraken: Well done on your E1 second! You're crushing goals at the moment!

Mattrm: Arrghhh!! I really don't know what training to do for the best! Being stronger seems to help the bouldering, although being lighter would do more. Remember our campus board has foot holds so it's not too harsh. Seems quite good for reminding me to keep my weight in the right place which is usually why I fall off....

In reply to pork pie girl:

It was quite a hard move ! There was a guy yeterday lapping the 7a with a weight vest on so i was told. Perfect training as it just gets pumpier and pumpier the higher you go.

No wattage output. It's just a basic trainer. I can see how the numbers would make you push more. I was going to sell it after the race in June but i'm considering keeping it as i've not found anything else that can get me so knackered in under half an hour.

In reply to mattrm:

Great result. Well done. Sounds like you cruised it despite the conditions.

In reply to mattrm:

haha as if he asked you for directions!

The sleeping bag fills the bergan, it's ridiculous how bulky they are.
Classic military equipment - High Performance, High Function, Low Cost, Very heavy

In reply to NorthernClamberer:

I agree with your point about energy during weight loss.

I guess my attitude is that I only eat "just enough" carbs to give me energy to exercise, then moderate carbs immediately after. This takes some practice and I've underestimated it sometimes, causing some failed sessions, but I've got better over time. Protein and Fat I don't restrict (within a reasonable total calorie amount).

I use coffee in moderation as well, carefully timing it when it will help at a time when my energy levels would be low.

In reply to Needkraken:
Careful what you say about the rokt grading Mr Jennings read this thread. I did text him to complain

In reply to pork pie girl:
It's hard to portray sarcasm on the internet :P

In reply to mattrm: Well done on the run.
This week I think a long bath and lots of sleep would be good training for you

In reply to Ali: Sorry am away alll next weekend and most of next week with work but, try sending Nomics an e-mail she lives near blackburn and will probably be out.
Eagle river is not too far from there either

In reply to grubes: I know, it was more like it felt hard for a 5+ and completely anti my style

In reply to Ali: i might be free on saturday so could make up the numbers if you wanted to tag along with any of the north manc lot if they're heading up to malham.. i live between lancaster and ingleton. i might be doing a north lakes sportive though so won't know what i'm doing yet.

In reply to biscuit: it sounds a nightmare move!!

In reply to grubes: thank god for that!! ;oD

In reply to grubes:
STG (July 2013):
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Climb on the cromlech
Lead E3 try onsight
MTG (October of 2013):
Work out what I want to achieve in 2014 and what I need to do to achieve it.
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
E3/4
Plan a font trip - Wheels in motion ...
LTG Summer 2014
Achieve the goals I set myself following squamish and summer.

This Weeks Goals:
Trad - Sort of tick only 1 session

M: Froggatt - Lead 1xE1 2xHVS all repeats 1xHS onsight
T: Rest
w: Rokt - Poor session. bouldered about to warm up. tried the 7a circuit stupid drop in aweful hot and humid conditions. Worked the moves. Tried the 7c circuit. Laps on the 6a+
Lead wall lead the worlds hardest 6a+ (tres ponts style grading ..) twice. had a look at a few moves on the 8b (it looked fun) mono crimp to aweful pinch to shitty crimpy undercut .. nasty! tried the new sand breifly but was far too hot.
Went back to bouldering hung around on the 45deg board doing moves front on for core
ended with a core session
T: Rest saw a band drunk beer and bourbon
F: Rest - Absolutely knackered from day before.
S: Holmfirth in minging drizzle trying to keep hold and shoes dry working the 7A. Good progress on my attempts.
S: Holmfirth again. better conditions. All session wasting sking and strength on my 7A. I left a chalk mark with my hand touching the lip of the good hold. gutted!

Next week goals:
Couple of sessions before going away with work
First Font 7A

Not a great week training wise. Was going to head to the wall this weekend but two different groups of mates wee going to risk holmfirths fast drying reputation. Two sessions on my project both went well third or forth overall.
The battle now is keeping skin and tension to latch the top hold. so close its stupid.

In reply to grubes:

I'm sorry, I might have been a bit harsh on that one...

In reply to grubes: I'm gonna rejoin to try and get some motivation - has been a poor 6 months, exercise-wise.

Goals: work out some goals, run a bit, lose weight

M -
T - 3.2 mile run
W -
T - 3.2 mile run
F -
S -
S - 5.6 mile run bilton / nidd. overdid it a bit but nothing terminal

Thanks grubes

In reply to grubes:

Go get that 7A!

In reply to Nik Jennings: In fairness it was probably good for me, not sure I would've chosen it as my first lead of the session if the grading said itwas harder =)

In reply to Nik Jennings: Hiya nik.. hope you don't mind me asking but i am working mescalito at malham (7c+) it's a long route, moves have felt very powerful up until more recently i am managing the moves a bit easier whilst leading and also on TR, it's clear that my endurance could be an issue rather than my power.

my plan is to start linking longer sections together whilst leading and also on top rope... i can get to malham alot.. 3-4 times a week.. would i be best training endurance at the wall or at a bouldering venue for a session a week or could i do laps on easier routes at malham.. or should i stick to what i plan to do.. i.e. keep chipping away at mescalito , trying to get higher and higher to buidl the endurance? my preference would be the latter as it motivates me and i get excited when i make small gains. does it really matter as long as i'm getting mileage?

In reply to grubes:

cheers grubes. Not much chance of me getting off the ground on an E8 6c!

STG (Summer 2013): 7b at Malham or Kilnsey, trad E1s and look at E2.
MTG (Autumn 2013): Something good in Spain, maybe 7a flash or 7b RP.
LTG (2014): lots of E2s, maybe look at E3 and RP 7b+.

Mon: nowt
Tues: 6 mile run with Bowland runners.
Weds: Troy Quarry, led Rapunzle VS 5a and Sounder HVS 5a. 2nded Pink Edge E2 5b and Stacked Deck HS 4b.
Thurs: 10 mile trail run Pendle Hill, 560m ascent.
Fri: Kilnsey. RP attempt at WYSIWYG but it was a bit too wet for my liking first go amd then even wetter for my 2nd go.
Sat: 7.8 mile trail run Pendle Hill, 600m ascent.
Sun: Kilnsey, top roped Sticky Wicket.

Thursday was very disappointing as I had hoped to RP WYSIWYG. One of the undercut holds was wet which put me off my first go and then on my second go another two holds were wet. As soon as I got to the first newly wet hold I slumped onto the rope. In hindsight I should have M'edTFU and had another good go as it's now likely to be wet for a while. Easy to say in hindsight.

Sticky Wicket is really hard for me, I coudln't work out the top section at all. I got some good beta just before I left though which will hopefully work for next time. It's not as good a route as WYSIWYG but is apparently permadry so a good one for me to go at.

In reply to Exile:

You may have already said, in which case apologies for missing it, but what is Ivy League and where is it?

In reply to Ali:

I have plans to be in North Wales next Saturday so I'm probably not going to be around. It may well get rained off in which case I might be up for a wall session. Will give you a shout if so. ER's on holiday I think.

Nice one leading GPS, it looks well hard!

In reply to mattrm:

Bloody hell that's a big run up (and down!) in miserable conditions!! And an impressive time. Well done!!

In reply to Nomics4sale:

It's a 7a+ on Scout Scar, just above Kendal.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13076

I've had three goes(?) on it this year, but none of the goes has been longer than 2hrs with both me and my partner playing on it, and all of these so far have been 7.30am - 9.30am in the morning, (to match in with family commitments,) which has been cold - so probably not the best tactics for a quick success!

In reply to Exile:

Impressive time management skills. Are you warming up on the way to the crag, loosening up your fingers between changing gears?? It might help it being so early, maybe you're not awake enough for any head f*ckery to kick in??

Looks like a good route, 2 star hard 7a+.

In reply to Nomics4sale:

To be honest neither of us have done much RPing before so our warm up tends to be putting the clips in with a stick, jogging about and using a theraband to stretch before getting on it and working up to longer and longer links. I'm sure this could be more effective if we had more time. Hoping to get an evening session, (6.00pm - it goes dark,) on it this Wednesday which should give us a bit longer to play with.

In reply to grubes:

Cheers Luke. The productivity of the weekend was probably due to the pre-work done in the Easter trip and deliberately training 2 and 3 days on before going so i was ready to keep cranking for the whole weekend.

You'll need to get used to climbing in the sun for Riglos. We did Zulu Demente in direct sun with 300ml water between us and felt completely frazzled at the top, especially on a guano white ledge reflecting the sun and making a disgusting stench!

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond

MTG (Spring 2013) - Build a pyramid of 8a/8a+'s and top it with an 8b or two, namely;
Melan-copout, Bad melans, Melanbeach, Para-trooper & Battle (original method) at LPT and one or two of:
Melanchollie at LPT
Insomnia at Dinbren
SUP ext at Pigeons
Stolen at Kilnsey

STG - minor update
Priorities:
- Finger re-hab; getting there
- Shoulder/elbow physio; tackling the cause of my elbow pains, not the symptoms
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) currently 75.7kg and and 6.7%

The week just gone:

M - Travel home from Spain and sub hour lap of Red and Llandegla which would indicate i've still kept some biking fitness
T - Thought about resting but saw forecast (shatcast) for the rest of the week. Frodsham an-cap. Got close to doing project - Direct righthand with now broken hold (hard v10). Got the finish 3 times but dropped it on the go again slap. Think i need a spotter to go full-bore at this move as it's so disconcerting with a heel-toe lock in up high.
W - Rest/Sports massage
T - Foot-on campusing; 1min50 on 3min10 off x6. Hard work on the last set.
F - Freezing/windy session at Dinbren. Soloed a few things up to 6b failed to warm me up, but got on Insomnia anyway. Top felt doable, bottom supposed f7b+/c vitually impossible; must be missing something. Fingers feeling creaky in the cold.
S - Biking 1hr dead lap of 'degla. Got hailed on; fairly miserable. Slower in the wet too.
S - Kilnsey. Dogged Cold Steal repetitively. Very techy 8a/+ "slab". Slowly unlocked sequences. Finger feeling better by end. Keen for the extensions, Stolen and Steal the Show.

p.s. i've finally gotten round to writing some thoughts about my spring trips up on my blog at http://allysmithblog.blogspot.co.uk/

Better late than never!

In reply to Exile: i think SS is quite a difficult crag to get used to.. seems to be lots of flat holds.. i tried the last route on the right.. 7b.. bloody nails.. and blank about half way up.. hold missing?

defo worth a few visits there once i've ticked my project.. maybe

In reply to pork pie girl:

I haven't got a lot to compare it to although I have been told SS / South Lakes Limestone grades are a bit hard - I know last year that we were taking a few sessions to RP 7a on Scout Scar, yet nearly onsighting 6c at Robin Proctor.

I find the feet hard to spot at SS, but that is probably lack of time on rock this year.

In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan. I started losing weight more or less as soon as I started doing regular exercise again, having been shocked at the site of myself in photos. To help me keep it going, I set my main goal to be, pretty much, to keep it going right into old age, as well as, more tangibly, to do the Welsh 3000s, which is coming up in a couple of weeks, all being well. Most of the weight went in the first few months, about 12 kg in 20 weeks, and since then only another 3 kg has gone, despite that I exercise at least as much as before - 8-9 hours a week. I don't know why. I don't eat cake or fatty things, but I do drink wine, albeit less than before. Much of my running is done first thing, often at 6am, either to get it done before work or to be in time for swimming. I have a coffee before I go, and don't eat until I get back. I've always been an early riser so this isn't as tough as it sounds, and it frees the mind of "the run" for the rest of the day.

A spreadsheet I wrote helps me, with all kinds of graphs and ranks and averages. With over 1000 entries now stretching over six years, it's like a diary and one of the most interesting, personal things I have.

In reply to pork pie girl:
I've replied to your email.

In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes. It did take it's toll but was ok after a rest day. Steady week this week enjoying some Scottish walks with the misses.

Goals:
Gain ML(S) -- I'm filling up my logbook ready for training at the end of 2013, so get in touch if you want to get out!
Consolidate seconding experience (trad) including some mountain multi-pitch.
Lead 20 mountain multi-pitch of at least VS 4c by end of 2014.
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!).
Learn to ski.

If anyone is interested in how I beat, and still working with, my fear of heights and falling, I have written quite a lot about it on my blog. This post pretty much sums it up: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/fear-of-heights-conquered/ and this one adds to it: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/my-pledge/

This Week:
M: Well deserved rest after 5 consecutive days bouldering. Steady walk with the misses, weeded the garden and re-felted my garden shed roof in the sun (and got sun burn).
T: Walk and ticked a few boulder problems en-route.
W: Nowt (except packing for Scotland)
T: 2hr walk around Bracklinn Falls after travelling to Callandar.
F: Sgurr Finnisg-aig summit and watched some British DH Series 2 practice runs, after travelling to Fort William.
S: Hidden Valley of Glen Coe.
S: Steall Falls and Nevis Gorge. Travelling home.

In reply to mbh:

Running the Welsh 3000s is one of my all time top five days out - its great - enjoy!

In reply to grubes:
Only just had a chance over the weekend to look at last week's thread, some super-impressive and inspiring things in there, well done all you goal achievers!

Nomics/Ali - I'm also looking for some gear-tastic E2s to get on this summer. Would be keen to get out at some point?

This week was fairly unproductive. I got sucked into a good book which killed a couple of evenings.

M: Castle Rock, think I reported this last week, nothing exciting.
T: Bike commute.
Castlebergh Crag, led a 5+, 6a and 6a+. Wanted to get on more but a school group was taking up most of the lines. Happy with the 6a+, felt steady.
W: Bike commute with longer, fun way home. Lunchtime run, 4.8km, 25 mins.
T: Biked to work only (a lift home was too tempting as it was pouring down, I felt guilty all the way home though)
F: Ran to work (finally... been putting this off for months (10km, 57mins)). Biked home.
S: 2hr run/walk around Malham area. Should have gone climbing as it wasn't as wet as expected.
S: Started driving to the Peak but it started raining... Leeds wall instead. Only had half ropes with us so just TR'd - was aiming for every TR route 5 and above but had to quit after 26 lines... quite a few 6b's in there, a pretty good attempt at a 7a (just one move I couldn't do) and jelly for arms afterwards.

I set goals until the end of April, so here's how I got on: (not too well...)

- Excited to get to the wall again regularly and get some strength back. 2x wall sessions/week, leading 6b indoors comfortably by the end of winter, working 6c. Bouldering maybe V4 or so? -Did plenty of bouldering over the winter, up to around V5. No where near as much roped climbing as I should have done. Was starting to feel 'ok' on 6b, though not totally comfortable. Didn't finish anything harder.
- Running - run at least 3x/week, and at least 25km/week. Build up milage aiming towards a marathon in the spring.-Was going well but seem to have dropped the longer runs a lot recently. Maybe 15-20km/week average. Haven't entered a marathon and think I'd struggle to run one.
- As and when weather permits, consolidate at E1 outdoors.-Haven't climbed anything harder than HVS, but then I barely climbed outdoors until a few weeks ago. VS seems to be going very smoothly at least, feel confident on pretty much any VS now which is a start.
- Get a mountain bike again as soon as I can afford it and get out lots!-Tick!
- Start training again, on the fingerboard and leg strength stuff also. 2 sessions of each/week.-More commitment needed. Lots more.
- Ski at least one week over winter, preferably touring.-Tick, one week long tour and quite a bit of day stuff
- Scottish 4 lead. Climb in Glen Coe/Ben Nevis area as only been to the Cairngorms before.-Only led III and pottered around on the Ben. I did realise (finally!) though that I'm really not a winter climber and would much prefer to have skis on my feet. I'm happy enough accepting that fact and going for occasional axe-swinging bimbles.
- Start a Yoga or Pilates class. -Not enough time, abandoned this plan though might try and do some yoga at home at some point.

So new STGs needed, set until mid-summer - end of July.

- Consolidate E1 (specifically, lead 8 E1s) and push to E2. Concentrate on crack climbing in preparation for Italian granite-fest end of summer.
- Sport: 6b and get on a 6b+/6c.
- Enough indoor/fingerboard/core training to enable the above. Develop a routine with this and stick to it.
- Spend a week climbing in either S Wales or Cornwall (weeks holiday to use still)
- Scotland trip - mountain multipitch somewhere (Cuillin Ridge would be a bonus)
- Running: complete a trail half or full marathon race. Run the 3 peaks (the Yorkshire ones that is).
- Run commutes at least once a week. Build milage up to ~40km/week.
- MTB: the Mary Townley loop in a day.

In reply to maria85:

There is a Mary Toownley Loop enduro in September, may be a good one to aim for:

http://www.rpmrt.org.uk/mary-towneley-loop/

End of the Summer so you'll be fit - all the gates will be open - other riders also suffering, (always helped me!)

In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes and thanks to everyone for their comments last week. Mega chuffed.

I flew out to Ibiza on Saturday but managed to squeeze in a session at Craig y longridge on Tuesday where I FINALLY did the 2nd 5th of the traverse (central ice fall to wobble block) which is supposed to be 7b.

I'm not back until the 21st so that'll be 2 weeks off climbing (shudder) although there is a DWS area I plan on checking out here that has about 6 routes from 6b to 8a so hopefully i'll get a couple of days there.

In reply to mattrm: Nice work on getting the points - I'd be inclined to follow Iain's advice and "run,run,run" if you're gonna do the Mont Blanc.

In reply to Eagle River: there's always door frames to dangle off :O)

In reply to maria85:

I'd be happy to partner up whenever. I've got a list of E2s to go at, mostly in North Wales although I'd be happy to get a day out in Yorkshire or the Peak too. I quite like the sound of Millstone although I expect I'd be looking at HVS not E2!

Also, if you do decide to do the Mary Towneley loop let me know as I may be up for it too. It looks brutal but fun (if that's possible!).

In reply to Exile: Cheers, looks like a good option. Have you done it?

Nomics: will email you

In reply to maria85:

No, not that one. I was meaning to get round to it when riding a lot of MTB enduros but somehow never did. A friend did it last time it was run, (hence I knew about it,) though and is going back this time for more. He really rated it.

In reply to grubes: Thanks, grubes, Pembroke was amazing, looking for a return visit before the end of the year!

And in my disorganised way, I've left my logbook at home, so the rest of last week is from memory:
Mon: Bank Holiday (see UKCFC 320)
Tue: Clwyd MC meet as Castle Inn (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1009)
A good evening, ticking off 8 routes starting with grade 4s, followed by the interesting Finale (5+) crack climb and then School Mam (6a, 1 rest) and a sunset-pushed Route 2 (6a).
Sat: A bit of a geocaching walk with 7yo daughter in Oxfordshire. Interesting with only Google maps and broken GPS on my phone :/

So I'm happy with progress outdoors, feeling confident, and felt style of ascent was generally good.

Must update explicit goals before next week...!

In reply to grubes:

Busy work week so not much climbing indoors and out. Also the pants weather and lack of climbing partners for my week off has sapped the psyche.

M-Work
T-Work
W-Work
T-Tried to get to the wall after work. Managed 20minutes before I realised it was a complete non-starter so went home.
F-Work
S-Work
S-Went down the wall and had a decent session. 35 v5's.

In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes, unfortunatly the day I could get out on the rope was bad weather so went to a sheltered crag instead.

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Went to Castle Inn to do some easy stuff with my Girlfriend. It was boiling hot and I warmed up on a F6b+ and she didn't want to climb. Looked at the short 7a there and the 7b+, they look completely uninspiring. Already done all the classics here so just chilled instead.

Wednesday - Hope Mountain - Did some repeats up to V4 and sent some eliminate V5. Also worked on a V7, very subtle problem all in the feet. Need to work on core tension to stick a deadpoint move to a side pull. Bit warm for the sandstone too.

Thursday - Core for 45 minutes and Stretching

Friday - Devils Gorge - Got close on a V4 and sacked it off to save energy, Tried some V6 got close but the last move is nails.

Had a go on the lower crux of a steep hard F7b "Broccoli and Icecream". Not my style at all which is why I like it. Took a long time to work out the move but unlocked it eventually. Didn't have time to try the steep juggy top section as mate had some redpoints. Keen for it.

Also had a few goes on a V5 but was very tired.

Saturday - Family Holiday - Did a big core workout and stretching:

30 Crunches with legs up
15 Side rises each side
20 Aqua Man's
Front Plank with alternate leg raises for 1 minute
Side Plank both sides for 1 minute each
30 Bridges with alternate leg raise
--Rest--
20 Leg raises
Side Plank both sides for 1 minute each
Dish for 1 minute
40 Russian Twists
15 Side rises each side
20 Aqua Man's
--Rest--
30 Aqua Man's
30 Bridges with alternate leg raise
Dish for 1 minute
30 Aqua Man's
30 Bridges with alternate leg raise
Dish for 1 minute

Sunday - Repeated yesterday core workout and did some stretching/yoga (Nails).

In reply to JimmyKay: now.. i understand if you wnat to tell me to get stuffed... but surely you don't work 24 hrs per day.. therefore can fit some climbing related excerise in? again.. tell me to bog off but... i've worked really long and unsociable hours and have trained at 5am in the mornings, mid night in the gym etc... once work becomes too much of a reason to not get ye bum in gear it's a slippery slope.

*waits to get shouted at*

come on JK... this week's diary better look better or i'm going to buy you a ball of wool and some knitting needles ... and book you in for a perm and blue rinse at the salon ;oD

In reply to pork pie girl:

Had an interview on Thurs and a termly review on Friday at school. So it was one of those wake up at 6am go to bed at 12:30am weeks. And Friday night (i did play football after school tbf) and Saturday I was entertaining a female friend. I'm going to get out this weekend. How's Malham/Kilnsey holding up with this weather?

In reply to JimmyKay: well i've lectured you now anyway.

don't know about kilnsey.. but i know stuff is being done.. malham is holding out pretty well.. had a couple of windy wet days there last week but generally it's all there to be had

In reply to pork pie girl:

Wicked. That might just happen to be my location for the weekend then. Can I reply on a conditions report from you Friday evening? Any seepage info on Raindogs/Toadal at Malham or Comedy/Thumb/Dom at Kilnsey would be much appreciated.

In reply to pork pie girl: S'funny - I always feel guilty when I put down WORK as a reason for not doing anything. Yet quite often, that's the sole reason I literally can't fit anything in. If I'm in London or at an exhibition, then I'm picked up at 4.30am and get home near 10pm. I won't have sat down at all except in the van and I've still got to shower, eat, do the washing etc and this can go on for days. It's physical work too.
It's the same when I put down REST - I think people might think I'm being lazy but it always because I need to have a rest day, it'd be injury time otherwise.

Anyways, I'm in my mid forties - that Jimmy's got no excuse! Entertaining women only leads to trouble...

In reply to Nomics4sale: Cool - will drop you an email... I think I actually found GPS harder than Embankment 4 which is E1 - its all about picking your route!

Maria - def up for mutual E2 encouragement!

In reply to pork pie girl: Do you sleep?! I wish I didn't have to - it would make fitting in exercise so much easier...though if I don't get enough sleep I get ill and then that makes exercise even more unlikely, so it's a bit of a balancing act!

In reply to grubes:
STG: Stick to the training plan.
MTG: 2*E2s, 1*6c(done) & 2*7a by end of May.
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(94)
Fat %: Err
Focus: Strength(1/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF, using core to reduce strain on fingers (maybe), not search for the best sequence when redpointing.

Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Chee Dale.
Wed: Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
Thu: Repeaters. Arc(30 mins). Steep wall lock-offs.
Fri: Bouldering @ Stockport (max V6).
Sat: Core.
Sun: Work.

The rain is draining my motivation...

Away next weekend so probably only 4 training days
- Push-ups, Pull-ups, Back(weights).
- Bouldering/routes 1 session.
- ARC -1 set.
- Steep wall lock-offs.
- Repeaters *1.
- 4x4 *1.
- Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
- Core * 2.

In reply to grubes:

This whole Fit Club scene is just groovy gravy, grubesy. Peace and love to you for doing it brother.

Two weeks in a row for me as I missed out last week.

Wk 320

M: Wall session, warm up then foot on campusing, 90s on/2mins off x3. Very pumpy.
T: Nothing
W: Very short run, first in ages.
T: Wall, foot on campusing, 90s on/2mins off, three reps, then rest and some crcuits, 2m30s on, 2m40s off. Three circuits, very pumped by the end.
F: Wall, foot on campussing. 90s on/2 mins off x 3. Then antagonistic training, overdid it a little as forearm sore the next day.
S: Hanging out with g/f.
S: Same again.

Wk 321
M: Millstone with Ali and Kevster of this parish. Led a couple of E1s, seconded an E2, left elbow feeling rather sore.
T: Rest, knackered.
W: Nothing
T: Core and stretching.
F: Nothing
S: Core and stretching.
S: Stretching.

I seem very annoyingly to have hurt my left elbow. I've been icing it a lot and it seems to be getting better, but I think I'm still looking at a month minimum to get back to anything vaguely hard. Hugely frustrating, especially as I think I hurt it by over-doing the weights for some antagonistic training, which was supposed to be keeping me healthy!

Trying to be positive and use the time to get a bit more flexible, and do some running.

In reply to pork pie girl:

I came home tonight feeling tired, then I put the kids to bed and felt hungry. I was just about to blow out tonight's training when I read this. Now I feel really tired, really hungry & I ache all over. At least I don't feel guilty

>and have trained at 5am in the mornings

Is this even legal?!?!?!

In reply to leon:

You are Condolezza Rice and I claim my £5 voucher.

In reply to leon: After reading about everyone's training at home I ended up doing a core session when I got home from work after eating too many malteasers at my desk!

In reply to Luke Owens:

Hi Luke,
Was this during the daytime? We were there in the evening. We had an amazing sunset that day, and the rock was actually warm enough for me not to have cold hands as an excuse!

There's a couple of stunning routes over on Fine View Wall: Indian Summer (6a+**) and As you like it (6b+**).

In reply to pork pie girl:

Coming from a family of teachers I know being a full time teacher is an 80hour (40hours+ in school + 40hour per week lesson planning and marking) a week job so I would never complain at a teacher saying they were too tired to train because chances are they really are too tired!

In reply to useful:

We were there in the evening, great weather.

Just did As You Like It.

I've spent a lot of time at Castle Inn in the past and done all the classics.

Fine View Wall, Route 1, 2 & 3, The Cakewalk and Cakewalk Direct.

The only thing left I was keen for was the 7a and 7b+ but after looking at them they don't look inspiring. Good crag for the lower grades.

In reply to Luke Owens:

The 7b+ at Castle Inn has a proper hard move on it; some minging crimping.

Do something nicer at Dinbren or on the Orme if you're looking to break into the 7b+ grade.

In reply to Ali: i get a bit unwell quite quickly with lack of sleep.. sore throat that won't go away until i catch up properly. i'm an 8 hrs a night girl.. without that i'm rubbish.

sleep is inconvenient and have often thought how ace it would be if we only needed a couple of hrs a night... would they put flood lights up at malham and kilnsey for night time climbing do you think?

In reply to pork pie girl:


I dunno, I definitely think if you are putting in very long days (lets say 14 hours) there comes a point when to do much in the way of training is trading off against how much sleep you are able to get. I think if you are training hard (as in forcing your body to make physical adaptions) then you NEED a certain amount of sleep, I have ended up making myself quite seriously ill on one occasion and picking up some niggling chronic injuries on another, by overtraining in those sorts of circumstances. There comes a point when you are up against limitations on the physical resources your body has, it's not a question of how motivated you are to train.

I take the point that 'some climbing related exercise' is not necessarily the same as 'training hard' and doing some of the former is much more realistic than the latter if you are working really long hours.

~sigh~ back to the typing for me.

In reply to leon: good effort leon... that's what this forum is all about keeping each other going

i worked somewhere that had a gym opened 24hrs per day... infact it was a mini leisure centre .. basket ball, crash mats, punch bags.. and sometimes late at night after my workouts i would have mad 10 minutes trying to do as many sports as i could (on my own) ... with bat man sound effects punches on the punch bags etc... then one day i was told that there was CCTV cameras and the security guards who monitored them were often quite entertained .. so i stopped!!

mrchewy.. grubes...we all have days/weeks that are harder to fit things in... as long as it's not an issue long term that's ok isn't it?

In reply to grubes:

Wow. It's very rare someone defends teachers! We are rewarded with the ridiculous holidays! I manned up last night and spent three hours down the wall. Full on session with lots of PE training. Getting there. I'm holding up for sport routes this year however many I fall off. (although I'm tempted for a trip up to Northumberland boulders in a couple of weeks)

In reply to Quiddity:

You are absolutely right about mixing hard training with stressful times / long hours at work. I found the issue for me wass I would then see a drop in peformance and so, despite myself, train harder and so end up in a worse state. Need to be really careful of this.

Having said that, when work / life is at it's most stressful getting a run in is one of the best stress relief strategies possible.

In reply to ally smith:

Yeah, it looked crimpy as hell. I was only there for my partner to do some easy stuff, wouldn't be my crag of choice otherwise.

Don't worry, I've got my sights set firmly on plenty at Dinbren... If this rain every stops...

Keen for Insomnia after being on it last week?

In reply to JimmyKay:
> Wow. It's very rare someone defends teachers!
yea thats cause I dont think people quite understand how mcuh teachers actually have to do
Mums a teacher leaves for work 6.20 everyday gets home after 7pm then works till bed. only time she gets a rest is when she is off work ill (probably brought on by stress)
True but most of the holiday is recovery time from the last term then your back in preparing for next term.
People who think teaches have an easy life need to try living with one for several years.

nice one on the PE session last night. Sent you a text last night. The weather is worse now.

In reply to Luke Owens:


Yes, working my way through some options for 8b projects and Insomnia fits the bill for the local project.

Current options are:
Insomnia, Dinbren - crimpy as hell, but local and non-tidal. Low in the grade, but has been compared in difficulty to Zeke and Rubicon and everyone takes 8b for that. Promising candidate.
Melancholie, LPT - has already hurt my fingers, is tidal and conditions dependent. Back burner for now.
Stiff Upper Lip Ext, Pigeons Hole - 7c+ into a V7 via an awkward clip. Great route; further exploration this evening.
Stolen, Kilnsey - hard 8a "slab" (Cold Steal) into V5 into 7b+. Best Yorkshire candidate i've found yet, as it's relatively skin friendly and suits my strengths, i.e. it's 28m long!

Could be keen for a Dinbren session on friday evening if that works with you?

In reply to grubes:

but your mum isn't on fitclub and choosing to post her weekly exercise/climbing diary to get feedback, advice and a kick up the pants if she's flagging? i'm sure jimmykay isn't totally offended by my post? didn't have a clue what job he does.. but it wouldn't make a difference to my response.

my other half is a teacher... she's was running up and down the hills at malham at 10pm last night to get some cardio in..after a climbing session with me after work... but that's her lifestyle and her choice and she's not right in the head. and we both have a 3 hour round trip (driving) to work every day up until last week when we started working part time.

i'm not a teacher and i've worked similar hours and been as much of a freak because my fitness has been as important as my job

i sometimes climb with people that have come straight off nightshifts and are fuelled by caffiene and roast chicken! their belaying is consistently good, their climbing great but their eyes look a bit zaney


lets.. remember this is fit club.. not the appreciation society for people that work long hours

In reply to pork pie girl:

I'm not going to get to 8c slacking off training.

In reply to JimmyKay: things looking pretty dry last night.. tiny bit of seepage at the top of mescalito, usual seepage on tremelo, raindogs looked well dry. talked to some blokes last night who had been upstairs all day yesterday .. they said the routes were dry. we're back there tomorrow and possibly friday, will try and remember to pop a quick update here if i get the chance. forecast not looking too bad for the next few days.. as in showers and some sun.. not constant rain.. fingers crossed

nomics might be at kilnsey tomorrow.. so she might be able to update you

In reply to JimmyKay: :oD

In reply to ally smith:

Insomnia sounds like the best option in terms of it being so local. Looks really good from the ground!

All the routes at Pigeons look awesome.

There are a few 8b's at the Bren now. Insomnia, Binary Finary, El Zapatistas and the latest one from Sam Catell at the end of last year The Sound and the Fury, looks awesome, it's the steep project line at the far left of the crag past Elite.

I was hoping to get the Dinbren this eve as it stopped raining about 11am this morning. I don't finish work until 6pm though, I have no idea if it's dry and my mate wants to go to the gorge...

If you're keen for this eve then I can get there for 6:30pm otherwise it'll be the gorge again for me.

Won't be out on Friday as the weather looks bad and better for Sat/Sun so i'll hold off until then.

In reply to Luke Owens:

Sorry, off to the Orme this evening.

i might be about locally on Sunday; depending on conditions at Dinbren v.s Yorkshire.

Ally

In reply to everyone:

Any advice on getting rid of DOMS? I went to the work gym on Monday and did a fairly hefty session of weights and core for the first time in about 6weeks.

Since then i've been hurting just about everywhere (first time i've been able to run on my mangled ankles for 4months, so legs hurt too!)

Any advice beyond 'brufen and MTFU for speeding recovery from DOMS?

Ta, Ally

In reply to ally smith:

In my experience everyone is different. It's best to re fuel asap after to help speed the process.

Once it's too late and they've set in i've always found stretching to help. Totally my own opinion and now there seem to be as many articles that say it does nothing. I don't know about injury prevention etc. but for DOMS it works for me.

Also a hot bath seems to help me.

Again totally my own experience and based on no science at all.

I did a press up workout a couple of weeks ago and was in agony for ages. Stretching helped for sure.

In reply to ally smith:

I've used hot - cold - hot - cold showers for this. It has the effect of opening and closing the blood vessels so 'flushing' them through, (or so the theory goes.) Need to finish on a cold so when you get dressed you warm up. It's worked well for me but you do need to MTFU for the cold bits.

In reply to NorthernClamberer:


I wouldn't worry about it that much at the moment. Just climb lots. Looking at your profile and goals, time spent campusing (esp as you're doing it at the wall) would be better spent climbing. Also you're moving from the stage in climbing where you've been making lots of quick gains and rocketing through the grades. In my experience that does slow down after the first year or so. So if it feels like you're 'slowing down' with progression, that's just one of those things.

If you're campusing at home, to make up for the times you can't get down the wall, that's different. Looking at your schedule, you've got a lot of good stuff in there. Yoga is great.

Obviously you know your weight and it theres an issue there. It's a fairly easy fix, to loose a bit of weight. Helps a lot.

biscuit / mrchewy - Oddly enough I did pretty much cruise it (which was a shock!). Helped that I knew the course. I'll have to up the amount of running a fair bit if I'm going to go for the longer ones. Tho I talked to a lot of folk and not many people seem to do much over 20-30 miles in one go as part of their training. Now got to do a 3 point race (which is a 'flat' 100er or a hillier 70-80 miler). As for the UTMB, I'm just going to get round it. Would be happy with a 43 hour and 59 minute time!

grubes - yeah, I'm having a total week off from anything. Lots of baths for sure

Dan - yes, he really did ask me for directions. Not joking.

In reply to pork pie girl: Ah, and there I was thinking you were superhuman...

I am starting to come to the conclusion that the only way of getting decent training in is to sacrifice other 'life stuff' (i.e. seeing friends, housework, washing) - I say that, having just started a part time online course. I really am my own worst enemy.

And a kick up the backside, or at least questionning if you could have fitted something else in occassionally is good - you've already got about 3 Fit Clubbers doing extra sessions this week!

Wow, floodlights at crags...evening climbing all year round!*

And on that note, tonight I am definitely having an early night....


*presuming it didn't take 3.5 hrs to drive to the nearest crag

In reply to JimmyKay:

Right then. As of 4pm today Comedy's dry but Thumb and Dominatrix are both wet. The crag is drying out though, it was drier today than yesterday. Directissima was sopping wet yesterday but was pretty dry today. I suspect Malham's drier though...

In reply to ally smith: low impact exercise.. will hurt for a while into the workout but i find it really speeds up the recovery.. sounds a daft things to do but for example if my legs are killing and it is just muscle soreness then i'd get on the bike and get the muscles working again... i'm usually fine the day afterwards. i'd only use anti inflams and stuff like that if i had swelling round joints from exercise.. but try to avoid this.

anyway.. my advice is probably too late now.. hope you're feeling back on track by now

In reply to Nomics4sale and jimmy kay.. left hand wall at malham is knackered.. it was drying out quickly on thursday... then went back yesterday and it was really wet again.. on thursday we thought that most of it had come from run off rather than seepage but looking at it yesterday it must be seepage. it'll take a while to dry.. and today's forecast is pants. mush of the rest of the crag is really dry though.. so plenty to do.

In reply to Ali: house work and washing??? what are those things?

In reply to pork pie girl: LOL! Yeah, well I live in a shared house so don't really want to get evicted any time soon...