/ Evje, Norway

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RobbieT - on 12 May 2013
It's looking likely I'll be working near Evje this summer.

Has anybody climbed around the area before? I've seen some articles about Setesdal Valley in the winter for ice climbing but can only find limited info on what the area is like in the summer.

Cheers.
RobbieT - on 12 May 2013
Also, Im planning to drive there from the UK. Has anyone done this before? Bit of a mission but is it easy enough? It's a shame the ferry from newcastle doesnt run anymore.

If anyone wants to join for the ride then let me know. I'll be leaving around may 23rd or so and can drop people off on the way.
hillman - on 13 May 2013
In reply to RobbieT:
The area is quite good also in summer. Slabs, sport climbs, walls up to ten pitches. This is an inland area with not so much rain as the area more close to the North sea.

There ia a guide to the area, written by the germans who have much of the development in the area. The existing is out of print, see excerpt here:
http://www.panico.de/de/panico_buecher/mittelgebirgsfuehrer/03_leseproben/kl_setesdal_leseprobe.pdf

But a new version is expected in May, more info here: http://www.kletterninnorwegen.de/html/aktuelles.html

The best sport climbing is at Urdviki, appr 30 km north of Evje. Best if climb above french 6c. The crag is included in Climb Norway. http://klatring-butikk.no/index.php?nr=90&idkategori=64&startrow=&case=4&id=88

Your trip to Norway by car should include passing the channel and a drive up to Hirtshals in northern Denmark, and take the ferry to Kristiansand in Norway (http://www.colorline.no/skip_og_ruter/kristiansand_-_hirtshals only in Norwegian)Another 1 hour by car to get to Evje. Be aware that Evje is at the southern end of the Setesdal valley, to get to Valle where most of the slabs and wall are it's another 1 hour to drive.
In reply to RobbieT:

I prefer Nissedal to Setesdal for summer rock - can't be too much further away presumably as it runs parallel, a little further to the east.


Chris
matthew jones - on 14 May 2013
In reply to RobbieT:
Plenty to go at, especially if you have wheels. The (relatively) new German Setesdal guide covers multi pitch trad about an hour north of Evje, there is a trad single pitch crag nearby ("44,5") originally developed by British Armed Forces many moons ago. Troll Mountain use this crag occasionally, but it seems to be suffering from underuse; diff to E3.

"Go North" (also German, atrocious guide, but gets you to the bottom of the routes!) covers Nissedal and Fyresdal, also within reach from Evje, bit more driving though. Rockfax have a download for some of the better multi in Nissedal, specifically on Bærumslandsfjellet and up at Hægefjell (brilliant spot, fantastic granite bouldering too...).

South to Kristiansand (45mins) or Arendal; sport and bouldering more prevalent on the coast (27crags has some coverage).
RobbieT - on 14 May 2013
Thanks guys, some good info there :)

It's going to cost a bit for the drive but I think I'm going to suck it up and do it. Sounds like it will be a lot easier to get to these places if I have a car around.
colin struthers - on 14 May 2013
In reply to RobbieT: About 15 years ago I was invited over by some guys who were working as PTI's at a British Army outdoor pursuits centre in Evje. We mostly went canoeing but we did do some local climbing, mostly on unclimbed or unrecorded crags. I remember being very impressed with how much potential there was in the area. I imagine there has been a lot of development since and if the base is still there I imagine the staff will have been quite involved in that.

Might be an idea to drop them a line - I was very well received when I visited even though I only faintly knew the guys who invited me.

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