/ Rogelio + Valentines day multi pitch advice El Chorro 60m rope?
However i was unsure of the abseiling in el chorro, when it states back down the line will that be a direct line, to other abseil points or back to each of the belay stances?
I was also hoping to have a crack at valentines day if we did well with rogelio, but the two top pitches are 40m will it be possible to abseil back down these routes?
Any information regarding good practice on multi pitch and first hand experiance of the routes would be greatly appreciated
Rogelio is back down the line not to seperate anchors.
Valentines day can be done with a 60m - just. Some comments here:
Every pitch is excellent! p1 hard for grade but nice delicate moves. p2 is the best, thrilling safe F5 climbing. 6a pitch is steep compared to rest but very good, big holds and well bolted. Final pitch a touch runout and hard for grade but still excellent. 6 abseils to the bottom on 60m rope. Beware, p4 ab requires the full 60m! Ab from p1 stance can reach ledges to downclimb final 5m, however we abbed to chain midway on p1.
Off the route database here:
and info for Rogelio:
I use it for teaching multi pitch to clients. Not a great route but you can ab off any of the first 4 or 5 pitches with a 60m or go all the way to the top ( about 300m roughly 8-10 pitches ) and walk off to the left. The last 2 of these pitches are the hardest and longest. LAst pitch is 35m and 6a+ ish.
I often just use the first 3 pitches with clients tbh and then try and get them up something like Amptrax or Valentines Day which are much nicer routes but obviously more involved.
If for what ever reason I found myself in an area where it wasn't long enough could I lower her off on a belay, ab down to a decent bolt, secure myself and re thread through like if failing to top out on a sport route? Iv been trying to find some good multipitch articles but most aren't covering the kind of situations I could see arising!
Throwing the rope down Rogelio is a thankless task, its not really steep enough!
I think the book shows it as 4 pitches, which it is not, as the log book says, it is longer.
There is an appealing looking in the book beginners section, which is slabby, polished and hard for the grade. Be cautious of this little sandbag too. (Through the tunnels).
Valentines day is a lovely climb though, a great spot on top for a bite to eat
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