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Wimberry's Last Great Problem falls to Pete Whittaker, whilst Tom Randall gets the 2nd ascent of Appointment with Death (E9 6c) and Nathan Lee makes the 3rd ascent of Order of the Phoenix, (E8 6c) all in the same day.Saturday the 4th May saw a very impressive day with three big...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68052
In reply to Quarryboy:
It is, I've stood underneath it and thought "No wonder it's known as Myles' *project* - That thing'll never get climbed!"
So, Good effort, Pete!
It is, I've stood underneath it and thought "No wonder it's known as Myles' *project* - That thing'll never get climbed!"
So, Good effort, Pete!
In reply to UKC News:
I remember looking up at the prow direct and thinking it looked amazing on my first visit then on another visit I saw Pete & Tom drop a rope on it (can't remember if they just inspected it or top roped it as we were to busy climbing) in April 2011 and ever since then I've been expecting this news! Top effort.
I remember looking up at the prow direct and thinking it looked amazing on my first visit then on another visit I saw Pete & Tom drop a rope on it (can't remember if they just inspected it or top roped it as we were to busy climbing) in April 2011 and ever since then I've been expecting this news! Top effort.
In reply to UKC News: Where does the E10 in the headline come from?
In reply to GDes: One of the most amazing features on grit- very impressive !
In reply to UKC News: cant wait for the film looking at the close up, proper war face!
In reply to GDes:
I think UKC have been taking hints of the Daily Fail!
> (In reply to UKC News) Where does the E10 in the headline come from?
I think UKC have been taking hints of the Daily Fail!
In reply to GDes:
Err, yeah wondered that too, didn't Pete: "Decline[...] to give it a grade..."?
Still, I guess there is a question mark in there.
> (In reply to UKC News) Where does the E10 in the headline come from?
Err, yeah wondered that too, didn't Pete: "Decline[...] to give it a grade..."?
Still, I guess there is a question mark in there.
The prow is a fantastic line with mad-looking climbing. Congratulations to all three.
In reply to GDes:
> Where does the E10 in the headline come from?
Betteridge's law of headlines: "Any headline which ends in a question mark can be answered by the word no."
"The reason why journalists use that style of headline is that they know the story is probably bollocks, and don’t actually have the sources and facts to back it up, but still want to run it."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betteridge%27s_law_of_headlines
In reply to Daniel Heath:
According to the Rockfax table, a safe f8b equates (roughly) to E8. So not E10 and seemingly quite a way off the bleeding edge of trad today.
Not that I would know.
Nice line though.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> 8b climbing on a grit route! amazing
>
> 8b climbing on a grit route! amazing
According to the Rockfax table, a safe f8b equates (roughly) to E8. So not E10 and seemingly quite a way off the bleeding edge of trad today.
Not that I would know.
Nice line though.
In reply to Marek:
I'd go with the FA's opinion rather than the Rockfax table!
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> [...]
>
> According to the Rockfax table, a safe f8b equates (roughly) to E8. So not E10 and seemingly quite a way off the bleeding edge of trad today.
> [...]
>
> According to the Rockfax table, a safe f8b equates (roughly) to E8. So not E10 and seemingly quite a way off the bleeding edge of trad today.
I'd go with the FA's opinion rather than the Rockfax table!
In reply to Marek:
I know you're being a bit tongue in cheek, but to be fair to Pete, it still represents one of the hardest technical achievements on a grit route, just maybe not the most dangerous.
I know you're being a bit tongue in cheek, but to be fair to Pete, it still represents one of the hardest technical achievements on a grit route, just maybe not the most dangerous.
In reply to Marek: I get the impression that this is safe in the same way partheon shot was safe, i.e. not very!
In reply to Marek:
And the word to note here is "safe". Having made the 10,000th ascent of the corner crack to the right some years ago I had intended to wander over and solo the prow until I realised I had forgotten my lucky brown pants. Oh, and its nails and FEKKIN DESPERATE!
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> [...]
>
> According to the Rockfax table, a safe f8b equates (roughly) to E8
> [...]
>
> According to the Rockfax table, a safe f8b equates (roughly) to E8
And the word to note here is "safe". Having made the 10,000th ascent of the corner crack to the right some years ago I had intended to wander over and solo the prow until I realised I had forgotten my lucky brown pants. Oh, and its nails and FEKKIN DESPERATE!
In reply to Blue Straggler:
Which was? Hint: 'Declining to give a grade other than f8b..."
> (In reply to Marek)
> [...]
>
> I'd go with the FA's opinion rather than the Rockfax table!
> [...]
>
> I'd go with the FA's opinion rather than the Rockfax table!
Which was? Hint: 'Declining to give a grade other than f8b..."
In reply to Blue Straggler:
But the FA didn't give his opinion - the report explicitly says so.
I'm guessing that the reason for that (and for the E10 speculation) is that it's impossible to really know whether the bolts would hold a fall or not, so whether it's safe as houses or potentially deadly is best left for the person attempting it to judge for themselves...
Awesome line, anyway - top climb! And props to Tom and Nathan, too.
But the FA didn't give his opinion - the report explicitly says so.
I'm guessing that the reason for that (and for the E10 speculation) is that it's impossible to really know whether the bolts would hold a fall or not, so whether it's safe as houses or potentially deadly is best left for the person attempting it to judge for themselves...
Awesome line, anyway - top climb! And props to Tom and Nathan, too.
In reply to remus:
From the FA: '...line, climbing, position, holds, danger and safety are all perfect'. I read that as (to paraphrase) it's safe for the grade.
> (In reply to Marek) I get the impression that this is safe in the same way partheon shot was safe, i.e. not very!
From the FA: '...line, climbing, position, holds, danger and safety are all perfect'. I read that as (to paraphrase) it's safe for the grade.
In reply to Marek:
In contrast, I took that to mean that whatever the relative levels of safety/danger, the risk/lack thereof was an acceptable level to the FA.
> (In reply to remus)
> [...]
>
> From the FA: '...line, climbing, position, holds, danger and safety are all perfect'. I read that as (to paraphrase) it's safe for the grade.
> [...]
>
> From the FA: '...line, climbing, position, holds, danger and safety are all perfect'. I read that as (to paraphrase) it's safe for the grade.
In contrast, I took that to mean that whatever the relative levels of safety/danger, the risk/lack thereof was an acceptable level to the FA.
In reply to Ramblin dave:
Didn't Pete's blog say that falls were taken safely onto the bolts? Or did I misread that?
I know he declined to grade it. I was just commenting that the top end of the Rockfax grade conversion table possibly has rather less meaning than Pete declining to grade it.
> (In reply to Blue Straggler)
> But the FA didn't give his opinion - the report explicitly says so.
>
> I'm guessing that the reason for that (and for the E10 speculation) is that it's impossible to really know whether the bolts would hold a fall or not
> But the FA didn't give his opinion - the report explicitly says so.
>
> I'm guessing that the reason for that (and for the E10 speculation) is that it's impossible to really know whether the bolts would hold a fall or not
Didn't Pete's blog say that falls were taken safely onto the bolts? Or did I misread that?
I know he declined to grade it. I was just commenting that the top end of the Rockfax grade conversion table possibly has rather less meaning than Pete declining to grade it.
I like the trad ethic that it's okay to bolt something as long as it's 8a or above
In reply to Kemics:
Did you read the article?
> I like the trad ethic that it's okay to bolt something as long as it's 8a or above
Did you read the article?
In reply to UKC News: WOOT! Awesome news.
Not sure where the E10 came from though? Surely this is not possible without a death fall?
Not sure where the E10 came from though? Surely this is not possible without a death fall?
In reply to Removed User:
I really, really hope that is supposed to be a joke, but have a sinking feeling.
Chris
> (In reply to UKC News) WOOT! Awesome news.
>
> Not sure where the E10 came from though? Surely this is not possible without a death fall?
>
> Not sure where the E10 came from though? Surely this is not possible without a death fall?
I really, really hope that is supposed to be a joke, but have a sinking feeling.
Chris
In reply to Blue Straggler:
Condition of the bolts has to be taken into account. They're old 8mm aid bolts that have been there since the 80's at least (anyone know?), so the line in the article that collectively they might provide a soft catch (i.e. they're not great and the belayer is going to have to help reduce the impact) is what needs attention.
Okay, they've taken one fall, but that's not to say they'll take another! Someone mentioned Parthian Shot earlier, but I seem to remember a discussion about clipping pegs on London Wall and what grade it should be at about the time someone ripped the pegs and fell to the ground that might be more relevant.
So it could be E8 if the old aid bolts are brilliant, or it could be E10 if they turn out to be questionable.
Condition of the bolts has to be taken into account. They're old 8mm aid bolts that have been there since the 80's at least (anyone know?), so the line in the article that collectively they might provide a soft catch (i.e. they're not great and the belayer is going to have to help reduce the impact) is what needs attention.
Okay, they've taken one fall, but that's not to say they'll take another! Someone mentioned Parthian Shot earlier, but I seem to remember a discussion about clipping pegs on London Wall and what grade it should be at about the time someone ripped the pegs and fell to the ground that might be more relevant.
So it could be E8 if the old aid bolts are brilliant, or it could be E10 if they turn out to be questionable.
In reply to Hephaestus:
There were bolts on the Prow in the early 70's but I don't know if these are the same ones.
There were bolts on the Prow in the early 70's but I don't know if these are the same ones.
In reply to Hephaestus:
I can't see there is any way they can be other than crap; hand drilled 8mm caving bolts that are 30+ years old and (I assume) upside down. Crazy!!
Chris
>
>
> So it could be E8 if the old aid bolts are brilliant, or it could be E10 if they turn out to be questionable.
>
> So it could be E8 if the old aid bolts are brilliant, or it could be E10 if they turn out to be questionable.
I can't see there is any way they can be other than crap; hand drilled 8mm caving bolts that are 30+ years old and (I assume) upside down. Crazy!!
Chris
In reply to UKC News: This is awesome news and have been following details since a friend caught a photo of folks up there the week before. Can't wait for the Hotaches film to be released!!
My only complaint is that Nathan needs to work on making his ascent look harder. Talk about effortless!
My only complaint is that Nathan needs to work on making his ascent look harder. Talk about effortless!
In reply to Removed User:
Wow.....
> (In reply to UKC News) WOOT! Awesome news.
>
> Not sure where the E10 came from though? Surely this is not possible without a death fall?
>
> Not sure where the E10 came from though? Surely this is not possible without a death fall?
Wow.....
In reply to UKC News:
What is this grade/bolt/death route speculation bollukcs all about?
Just imagine the time, talent and sheer commitment which goes into rare ascents like this.
BIG PROPS!
Nuff said.
What is this grade/bolt/death route speculation bollukcs all about?
Just imagine the time, talent and sheer commitment which goes into rare ascents like this.
BIG PROPS!
Nuff said.
In reply to UKC News:
"Tom Randall made the second ascent of Appointment with Death (E9 6c). First climbed by Sam Whittaker in 2003, the route has waited ten years to see its first repeat, likely owing to the long walk in and near protection-less nature of the climbing."
It was certainly the "long walk in" that had put me off!
"Tom Randall made the second ascent of Appointment with Death (E9 6c). First climbed by Sam Whittaker in 2003, the route has waited ten years to see its first repeat, likely owing to the long walk in and near protection-less nature of the climbing."
It was certainly the "long walk in" that had put me off!
In reply to Hephaestus: Bolts were placed in 1969.
In reply to UKC News: Vid shows consolation prize being climbed on RHS of arete as a FA. I've personally seen this done three times this way IN 2003/4.
In reply to Phil Sneyd: probably not in the new guide
I blame martin
I blame martin
In reply to Hephaestus:
Rhapsody was graded E11 by the FA, after multiple >20 falls from the top without injury.
> (In reply to Blue Straggler)
>
> Condition of the bolts has to be taken into account. They're old 8mm aid bolts that have been there since the 80's at least (anyone know?), so the line in the article that collectively they might provide a soft catch (i.e. they're not great and the belayer is going to have to help reduce the impact) is what needs attention.
>
> Okay, they've taken one fall, but that's not to say they'll take another! Someone mentioned Parthian Shot earlier, but I seem to remember a discussion about clipping pegs on London Wall and what grade it should be at about the time someone ripped the pegs and fell to the ground that might be more relevant.
>
> So it could be E8 if the old aid bolts are brilliant, or it could be E10 if they turn out to be questionable.
>
> Condition of the bolts has to be taken into account. They're old 8mm aid bolts that have been there since the 80's at least (anyone know?), so the line in the article that collectively they might provide a soft catch (i.e. they're not great and the belayer is going to have to help reduce the impact) is what needs attention.
>
> Okay, they've taken one fall, but that's not to say they'll take another! Someone mentioned Parthian Shot earlier, but I seem to remember a discussion about clipping pegs on London Wall and what grade it should be at about the time someone ripped the pegs and fell to the ground that might be more relevant.
>
> So it could be E8 if the old aid bolts are brilliant, or it could be E10 if they turn out to be questionable.
Rhapsody was graded E11 by the FA, after multiple >20 falls from the top without injury.
In reply to Hirosim:
Yes, because the climbing on Rhapsody is significantly harder than on any of the E10s that were around to compare it with. Dave Mac reckoned f8c+ and Steve Mac thought that to be right.
> (In reply to Hephaestus)
> [...]
>
>
> Rhapsody was graded E11 by the FA, after multiple >20 falls from the top without injury.
> [...]
>
>
> Rhapsody was graded E11 by the FA, after multiple >20 falls from the top without injury.
Yes, because the climbing on Rhapsody is significantly harder than on any of the E10s that were around to compare it with. Dave Mac reckoned f8c+ and Steve Mac thought that to be right.
In reply to Hirosim:
I don't think MacLeod had over 20 lead attempts on Rhapsody. I thought less than 10 but I could be wrong!
No serious injury but it looked like he sprained his ankle quite badly.
> (In reply to Hephaestus)
> [...]
>
>
> Rhapsody was graded E11 by the FA, after multiple >20 falls from the top without injury.
> [...]
>
>
> Rhapsody was graded E11 by the FA, after multiple >20 falls from the top without injury.
I don't think MacLeod had over 20 lead attempts on Rhapsody. I thought less than 10 but I could be wrong!
No serious injury but it looked like he sprained his ankle quite badly.
In reply to everyone going on about grades:
Have a look at this and see how hard it is to make an estimate of a grade:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22256.0.html
A great honest write up that i think shows how tricky it is to get the grade of a FA correct.
Instead of going on about it here we will all have to wait and see what successive ascentionists ( if there are any ) think and a consensus will be reached like it generally always has.
But i guess that would take away half the fun
Have a look at this and see how hard it is to make an estimate of a grade:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22256.0.html
A great honest write up that i think shows how tricky it is to get the grade of a FA correct.
Instead of going on about it here we will all have to wait and see what successive ascentionists ( if there are any ) think and a consensus will be reached like it generally always has.
But i guess that would take away half the fun
In reply to UKC News: That wasnt the only breakthrough that happened in Chew that weekend, Wilderness Gully East now has a sitting start.
In reply to UKC News:
What is it about those funky super hard grit routes? They give me the shakes just looking at the pics. Fine effort lads all round. Shame the debate has to start, mostly by people who will never climb the routes in question. Does it really all matter at the end of day? Damn fine looking route, savagely imposing!
What is it about those funky super hard grit routes? They give me the shakes just looking at the pics. Fine effort lads all round. Shame the debate has to start, mostly by people who will never climb the routes in question. Does it really all matter at the end of day? Damn fine looking route, savagely imposing!
In reply to nilcanpoop:
It's a discussion forum, why not discuss the route? It would be a pretty bland thread if everybody just posted congratulations, although that is clearly due!
> Shame the debate has to start, mostly by people who will never climb the routes in question. Does it really all matter at the end of day?
It's a discussion forum, why not discuss the route? It would be a pretty bland thread if everybody just posted congratulations, although that is clearly due!
In reply to Jamie B:
Im not against discussion. I just hate all the nit picking about grades. If there was a mat present in a half mile area around the base of the route then the E grade drops to E7. If the wind blows a certain direction its easier and there goes another E point. I have to say though there is not much of that here. As for discussing the route,well it looks amazing, its on grit and the lad who did it is a savage climber. Just don't mention he used a stick to clip one of the bolts. The other classic is why do people not grade routes in the UK? Because everybody disagrees and claims the numbers are inflated and the person who did it first just wants his name on the front page.
Im not against discussion. I just hate all the nit picking about grades. If there was a mat present in a half mile area around the base of the route then the E grade drops to E7. If the wind blows a certain direction its easier and there goes another E point. I have to say though there is not much of that here. As for discussing the route,well it looks amazing, its on grit and the lad who did it is a savage climber. Just don't mention he used a stick to clip one of the bolts. The other classic is why do people not grade routes in the UK? Because everybody disagrees and claims the numbers are inflated and the person who did it first just wants his name on the front page.
In reply to grubes:
And he blames me for eating the script with the RHS of the arete in. It was covered in cheese, see?
> (In reply to Phil Sneyd) probably not in the new guide
> I blame martin
> I blame martin
And he blames me for eating the script with the RHS of the arete in. It was covered in cheese, see?
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