/ Hutton Roof (State)

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ROBBIEB - on 16 May 2013
Last night I grabbed a window in the rain to go and boulder in my old playground HF. When I got there was pretty gob smacked at the state of the crag. Many routes we're overgrown and established ash saplings growing from the crag. All the roof routes had vegetation in them and the routes to on the buttresses containing nicks travers were overgrown. I've bouldered at HF for thirteen years, and worked with groups there a lot. I haven't however been up there in three years. The easy routes that groups were using clearly were clean, with signs of recent use. The more quirky and harder routes showed no signs of traffic ? What a shame if this lovely little crag is not being used as it once was. Last night I was the only person there, fantastic for the solitude, and peace. But a shame for the Routes which are overgrown.
ROBBIEB - on 16 May 2013
: Sorry should read HR as in Hutton Roof not HF
Ann S on 16 May 2013
In reply to ROBBIEB:

Hi Robbie - if you fancy a clean up session I would happily join you.
MarkM - on 16 May 2013
In reply to ROBBIEB:
It does seem that there's of the less harder climbing generally taking place there over recent years..

but is current overgrowth it partly a function of it having been pretty cold and wet since the arrival of Spring?
ROBBIEB - on 16 May 2013
In reply to MarkM: No this is well established growth years old, in my opinion.
ROBBIEB - on 16 May 2013
In reply to Ann S: Yes that's what I'm thinking il send you a private message and let's see what we can do. Thanks
ROBBIEB - on 16 May 2013
Also to bear in mind HR is SSSI so any cleaning needs to be done carefully
Lankyman - on 16 May 2013
In reply to ROBBIEB: haven't been up there for a while but this is the time of year when growing things are in overdrive. Add in the prolonged wet 2012 and the probable lack of traffic then that will have an effect too. The smaller Warton crags can get a little swamped by valerian growing out of the cracks - you just have to keep on top of it, pulling it out whenever possible. Have you also noticed that many much bigger trad limestone crags are like ghost towns these days?
ROBBIEB - on 16 May 2013
In reply to ROBBIEB: Karl absolutely right. Large trad limestone crags are indeed ghost towns, bolts, boulders and walls enticing the younger generation !?
Andy Say - on 16 May 2013
In reply to Karl Lunt:
> (In reply to ROBBIEB) Have you also noticed that many much bigger trad limestone crags are like ghost towns these days?

Karl - don't! Someone is bound to suggest bolting them to make them popular again.......
Exile - on 16 May 2013
In reply to Andy Say:

Talking of which, how clean is Warton Main anybody?
Lankyman - on 16 May 2013
In reply to Exile:
> (In reply to Andy Say)
>
> Talking of which, how clean is Warton Main anybody?

Warton is as clean as ever (make of that what you will!) - I drove past last night. It does suffer from valerian growing in the cracks as summer progresses. However, there is a definite bird ban on at present due to nesting something-or-others.
joel182 - on 16 May 2013
In reply to Ann S:

I'll be back up in Lancaster in June and would be happy to help out too!
Ann S on 16 May 2013
In reply to joel182:

Thanks Joel. If Robbie does the homework on what should and shouldn't be touched, 3 of us could do a good job. If we stand on each others shoulders we won't need ropes!!
ROBBIEB - on 16 May 2013
In reply to ROBBIEB: Il set a date and get in touch in next few weeks. Kind regards
Ian Black - on 16 May 2013
In reply to ROBBIEB: I used it regularly in 2011, but because of the washout summer last year it is definitely in need of a clean up. BTW it was fine in 2011. So it's deteriorated fairly rapidly.
Exile - on 17 May 2013
In reply to Karl Lunt:

yeah, know about the bird ban. Went to have a look at plastic iceberg and the third world last year but there looked like a reasonable amount of plant growth in the cracks. Is this the norm?
brokenbanjo - on 17 May 2013
In reply to ROBBIEB:

If you're 'cleaning' at Hutton Roof, you will need both landowner permission and consent from Natural England.
Lew13 - on 18 May 2013
In reply to brokenbanjo:

Party Pooper!
ROBBIEB - on 18 May 2013
In reply to brokenbanjo: yes fully aware, thanks
ads.ukclimbing.com
Lankyman - on 18 May 2013
In reply to Exile:
> (In reply to Karl Lunt)
>
> yeah, know about the bird ban. Went to have a look at plastic iceberg and the third world last year but there looked like a reasonable amount of plant growth in the cracks. Is this the norm?

The lower parts of Plastic often look overgrown later in the season and with the wet 2012/lack of traffic etc it's not getting any better. It's well worth getting on to the main pitch though. Warton Main is not my favourite crag but the 'classics' are worth the effort.
Climbster - on 18 May 2013
In reply to ROBBIEB:

I was at HR, for the first time, in Nov '12; highballing everything up to 6a/b. We climbed from the left end as far as the Cyclops area and it was a little polished in places but otherwise fine.
The areas further right did look as if they may be developing a bit of a growth, so we sacked it after Cyclops.
Seems a shame to let such a pretty little crag get over-run. If you can get consent to organise a clean-up I'd be happy to help out.

Climbster (Matt)

ROBBIEB - on 18 May 2013
In reply to Climbster: Would echo all that. I used to go up after work and do he same. As mentioned not been in a few years for various reasons. Roof routes were biggest surprise all overgrown with saplings, rose hips, and a veritable jungle. Il let you know. Regards
Calder - on 18 May 2013
In reply to Karl Lunt:
> (In reply to Exile)
> [...]
>
> Warton is as clean as ever (make of that what you will!) - I drove past last night. It does suffer from valerian growing in the cracks as summer progresses. However, there is a definite bird ban on at present due to nesting something-or-others.


Falco Peregrinus normally isn't it. I'm going to have to man up and get on them (3rd World and PI) when they fly the nest aren't I. It's usually mid to late June isn't it?
ROBBIEB - on 18 May 2013
In reply to Calder: Late June at the earliest
Lankyman - on 18 May 2013
In reply to Calder: the screeching birds are nesting (don't want to over-publicise this) https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=195 I saw the adults a couple of weeks back. We volunteered a few years ago to do a night nest watch as there have been disturbances and thefts here in the past. It was an eye-opener for what goes on in out-of-the-way places after dark.
ROBBIEB - on 18 May 2013
In reply to Karl Lunt: What was the extra Activity Carl do tell ??
Lankyman - on 18 May 2013
In reply to ROBBIEB: 'Furtive fumblings'. We had a brief from the local police to log every car number plate entering the car park. To help us we were given a night vision scope plus radio and mobiles. Of course, we only used it to scan the rockfaces. Most folks drove off quick-time once they noticed us with our surveillance kit!
ROBBIEB - on 18 May 2013
In reply to Karl Lunt: Outatanding what a laugh!

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