/ Half Rope Advice Sought.
Searching through the forums/ ukc articles/ the web generally, there are lots of articles on what type (single/ half /twin) of rope to pick, and ways of choosing between different ropes based on their individual stats, but really I'm looking for first-hand advice on different ropes.
-Lots of friends have Mammut Genesises (Genesees/Genesi??), they seem to have all the usually good stats, with relatively high UIAA falls listed at 15-16.
-I've heard good things about the handling of Edelrid ropes.
-There are some good deals on Tendon ropes at the moment.
-Another friend swears by Sterling.
So what to do..
I should have probably mentioned I'm most likely after 60m dry-treated ropes for all the classic UK trad, Scottish winter and alpine trips.
I got the pheonix and they are nearly 6 years old now and regularly used and still have life left in them! One of the ropes is looking a bit worn but serviceable and the other is still looking pretty damned good.
I've climbed on all sorts of rock including gneiss, grit and granite with my pheonix 8mm and they are going well and 6 years old.
I've got Beal Cobra II's, awesome ropes, don't think you can go wrong with the Mammuts either!
some good pair deals online, urbanrock, joe brown and v12 I think!
Wearing fine, handle well and the dry treatment seems as good as anything else I've used. Happily used just the one in winter (naughty I know)and they don't stretch anything like the Icelines. All the stats added up for me when I went through them all.
As far as belay plates go, I bought a spare Buggete in case someone wants to use a narrower one but I use a Reverso fine, my mate uses a Bug and no one has noticed any slipping with their usual device. They've been fell on too.
I much prefer them to my mate's Mammut Genesis to be honest but I couldn't tell you why.
Lovely handling, very easy to belay both ropes. Very water resistant eg in wet soft snow. Not very heavy, have lasted a long time.
The pheonix handle pretty well I think mammut now apply a heat treatment to all their ropes (they used to call duraflex), they always used to do this on the pheonix anyway and this improves handleing.
I've got some Mammut Phoenixes, 8.0mm. They're great for winter/ice climbing. But for 80-90% of what I do, which is standard trad climbing, they're not that great. Tangle very easily and a bit 'rapid' when abseiling etc.
I'll be going for a more 'standard' 8.5mm rope or maybe one of these 8.7-9 single/half/twin jobs next time I buy a rope.
I agree they tangle a bit easily as do all/most 8mm ropes, especially ones that are less stiff / handle well. However you do get used to avoiding it. Personally I can't justify having two sets of half ropes so some compromise is necessary.
I disagree they abseil too rapidly but then I use specialist belay devices (ie buggette and alike)
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