/ Bolt ripped out at Giggleswick North

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Adrian Nelhams - on 16 May 2013
I was climbing in the Hollywood Bowl today, Giggleswick North & the 4/5 bolt ripped out on Illywacker.
Check out my blog for any further information - http://adriannelhams@blogspot.co.uk/
Take Care
Ade
The Green Giant - on 16 May 2013
In reply to Adrian Nelhams:

You've got your blog address slightly wrong. Needs a dot not and at.

This is quite serious news, hope the person who bolted it gets informed, and problems are rectified.

Hope you've not been put off!
cuppatea on 17 May 2013
Lankyman - on 17 May 2013
In reply to Adrian Nelhams: I wonder if the bolt was placed into tufa (as opposed to bedrock limestone)? If so then it may have been the 'rock' that failed rather than the bolt or resin.
Hephaestus - on 17 May 2013
In reply to Karl Lunt:

Yep, definitely the rock not the bolt which is still in tact according to the photo on the blog. Imagine it's pretty difficult to avoid tufa and flowstone in the cave, but the bolt itself looks poorly designed for the steepness of the venue.

Jim
jimtitt - on 17 May 2013
In reply to Hephaestus:
Hmmm, thatīs a pretty old Petzl Collinox, havenīt seen one that style for a very long time. The glue failed, not the rock.
cyberpunk - on 17 May 2013
In reply to Adrian Nelhams: Ti is right, The Glue failed on that one.
Dan Middleton, BMC - on 17 May 2013
In reply to Adrian Nelhams:

That is a pretty old bolt design, the current Petzl Colinox has raised keying ridges rather than troughs, so it's likely that this was placed some time ago.

In the photo, I don't see any resin residue left in the troughs, so it looks as though the glue never filled these in and keyed the bolt in properly. Either the glue didn't mix and set properly, or it was placed at too low a temperature and the glue wasn't viscous enough to flow into the troughs. Modern bolts have more tolerance but it goes to show that sport climbing isn't "safe" and that you still need to take care.

I've emailed a link to this thread to a contact at the Yorkshire Bolt Fund, in the meantime probably best to avoid routes in the vicinity with similar bolts.
Michael Ryan - on 17 May 2013
I'm the first ascensionist of illywhacker, the route in question, and we come in fear and the sound of one hand slapping at Hollywood bowl.

I placed all bolts on the lead on each route, using sky hooks and nuts. I placed expansion bolts, ideal for this type of overhanging limestone rock.

It seems the routes have subsequently been rebolted with resin type bolts.

Aidey texted me last night about the resin bolt failing and aidey has been in touch with inglesport and the Yorkshire bolt fund I believe.

Mick
Dave Musgrove - on 17 May 2013
In reply to Adrian Nelhams:

I don't know who placed this bolt Ade. It is not of a type that the YBF has ever used. Were all the bolts on the route of a similar design Ade?

I believe some of the Burnley lads cleaned up and re-bolted some of the harder routes in the Bowl last year but I'm pretty sure they used more modern stock and I don't remember them mentioning Illywhacker.

I'll ask around and see if I can get one of the local devotees up to re-assess the climb and get it re-bolted.

Dave
Nez - on 18 May 2013
In reply to Adrian Nelhams: the route was rebolted using the dmm p hanger type glue in bolt just before the last ymc guidebook. The bolt in question must of been placed between mick doing the 1st ascent and then. It didn't get replaced as it seemed sound at the time.

Dave if you send me a tube of glue I'll get up there and get it done.
Dave Musgrove - on 18 May 2013
In reply to Nez:

Hi Nez,

I'll organise some resin next week some time,

Thanks,

Dave

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