/ Bolt ripped out at Giggleswick North
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You've got your blog address slightly wrong. Needs a dot not and at.
This is quite serious news, hope the person who bolted it gets informed, and problems are rectified.
Hope you've not been put off!
Yep, definitely the rock not the bolt which is still in tact according to the photo on the blog. Imagine it's pretty difficult to avoid tufa and flowstone in the cave, but the bolt itself looks poorly designed for the steepness of the venue.
Hmmm, thatīs a pretty old Petzl Collinox, havenīt seen one that style for a very long time. The glue failed, not the rock.
That is a pretty old bolt design, the current Petzl Colinox has raised keying ridges rather than troughs, so it's likely that this was placed some time ago.
In the photo, I don't see any resin residue left in the troughs, so it looks as though the glue never filled these in and keyed the bolt in properly. Either the glue didn't mix and set properly, or it was placed at too low a temperature and the glue wasn't viscous enough to flow into the troughs. Modern bolts have more tolerance but it goes to show that sport climbing isn't "safe" and that you still need to take care.
I've emailed a link to this thread to a contact at the Yorkshire Bolt Fund, in the meantime probably best to avoid routes in the vicinity with similar bolts.
I placed all bolts on the lead on each route, using sky hooks and nuts. I placed expansion bolts, ideal for this type of overhanging limestone rock.
It seems the routes have subsequently been rebolted with resin type bolts.
Aidey texted me last night about the resin bolt failing and aidey has been in touch with inglesport and the Yorkshire bolt fund I believe.
I don't know who placed this bolt Ade. It is not of a type that the YBF has ever used. Were all the bolts on the route of a similar design Ade?
I believe some of the Burnley lads cleaned up and re-bolted some of the harder routes in the Bowl last year but I'm pretty sure they used more modern stock and I don't remember them mentioning Illywhacker.
I'll ask around and see if I can get one of the local devotees up to re-assess the climb and get it re-bolted.
Dave if you send me a tube of glue I'll get up there and get it done.
I'll organise some resin next week some time,
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