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Has anyone climbed this in recent years? Seems like it used to be a classic big tick, but you never hear of anyone climbing it these days. Is there a reason for this?
In reply to Pete Graham: Did it back in 84' - good route, quite hard in places.
Maybe other better informed folk on UKC might have a better idea as to why it's not climbed too often these days - jon of this parish might have some info.
Maybe other better informed folk on UKC might have a better idea as to why it's not climbed too often these days - jon of this parish might have some info.
In reply to Pete Graham: It's remote, hard and dangerous especially with the conditions that prevail these days?
In reply to Pete Graham: This is close:
http://www.tvmountain.com/video/alpinisme/7064-mont-blanc-pilier-d-angle-bo...
http://www.tvmountain.com/video/alpinisme/7064-mont-blanc-pilier-d-angle-bo...
In reply to Pete Graham:
The last person (well UK climber) I heard of doing it was Jerry afore in the early 1990s and shall we say his ascent was "interesting". I've not seen news of any more recent ascents but then I haven't been checking for any.
It was on my ticklist but I never seemed to get over to that part of the range.
I think a lot of the lesser known big ticks have fallen out of favour in recent years due to climate change and the modern "Piola style" routes being in vogue. More's the pity as they have both good climbing and are a good adventure.
ALC
The last person (well UK climber) I heard of doing it was Jerry afore in the early 1990s and shall we say his ascent was "interesting". I've not seen news of any more recent ascents but then I haven't been checking for any.
It was on my ticklist but I never seemed to get over to that part of the range.
I think a lot of the lesser known big ticks have fallen out of favour in recent years due to climate change and the modern "Piola style" routes being in vogue. More's the pity as they have both good climbing and are a good adventure.
ALC
In reply to Pete Graham:
Did this back in 78.
Apparently P did ask me about it and I said I could not remember.
However, the East face section is probably much the same as then. It will clear fast after bad weather. The guide was pretty confusing and complicated, we just took the easiest looking line up the chimneys, mostly alpine V (4b to 5a ) with one or two short 5b sections. The rock was mostly OK with little fixed gear.
The North face section is probably like the easier sections of the routes further right ( but I have not done any of them). It was scottish III or IV .
The final arete to the Peuterey is amazingly exposed at one point. I almost puked.
As other posters have said a real adventure and as committing as you can get ( without doing the P integral )
Joe Tasker described it well " as raw and brutal not sanitized like the Walker "
Did this back in 78.
Apparently P did ask me about it and I said I could not remember.
However, the East face section is probably much the same as then. It will clear fast after bad weather. The guide was pretty confusing and complicated, we just took the easiest looking line up the chimneys, mostly alpine V (4b to 5a ) with one or two short 5b sections. The rock was mostly OK with little fixed gear.
The North face section is probably like the easier sections of the routes further right ( but I have not done any of them). It was scottish III or IV .
The final arete to the Peuterey is amazingly exposed at one point. I almost puked.
As other posters have said a real adventure and as committing as you can get ( without doing the P integral )
Joe Tasker described it well " as raw and brutal not sanitized like the Walker "
In reply to Rick Graham:
Forgot to mention it was graded TD+ in the old AC guide.
What a joke, A grade harder than the Walker, say, think ED1 or easy 2.
Forgot to mention it was graded TD+ in the old AC guide.
What a joke, A grade harder than the Walker, say, think ED1 or easy 2.
In reply to Rick Graham: I've done the Walker and I know what you mean. All of the routes in that area have always terrified me and I never had the confidence (bottle) to do one. What people tend to forget is that it's not just the route, it's the approach and the descent as well.
In reply to GridNorth:
In 1978 the approach from the Col Moore was a quick dash over snow and avalanche debris ( which felt useful as it filled in any crevasses).
It is now apparently a real horror show with a huge recent land slide off the foot of the Major.
Perhaps Luca will describe again the huge landslide (100 years ago ?) that formed the GPA itself.
In 1978 the approach from the Col Moore was a quick dash over snow and avalanche debris ( which felt useful as it filled in any crevasses).
It is now apparently a real horror show with a huge recent land slide off the foot of the Major.
Perhaps Luca will describe again the huge landslide (100 years ago ?) that formed the GPA itself.
In reply to GridNorth:
Yes, possibly the gnarliest bit of Mont Blanc. Having done the serac threatened approach twice (for the Cech/Nom and The Boivin/Vallencant), the second time round I realised I just didn't want to be there and I havn't and won't be back! The Peuterey Ridge to finish is really knackering and insecure in dodgy snow conditions.
Incidentally, just read Bonatti's "Mountains of my Life" (which includes a chapter on The Bonatti/Zapelli but not the Bonatti/Gobbi). Rereading this stuff really blows me away with how utterly hardcore and ahead of his time he was. Surely the greatest ever mountaineer.
> (In reply to Rick Graham) I've done the Walker and I know what you mean. All of the routes in that area have always terrified me and I never had the confidence (bottle) to do one. What people tend to forget is that it's not just the route, it's the approach and the descent as well.
Yes, possibly the gnarliest bit of Mont Blanc. Having done the serac threatened approach twice (for the Cech/Nom and The Boivin/Vallencant), the second time round I realised I just didn't want to be there and I havn't and won't be back! The Peuterey Ridge to finish is really knackering and insecure in dodgy snow conditions.
Incidentally, just read Bonatti's "Mountains of my Life" (which includes a chapter on The Bonatti/Zapelli but not the Bonatti/Gobbi). Rereading this stuff really blows me away with how utterly hardcore and ahead of his time he was. Surely the greatest ever mountaineer.
In reply to Robert Durran: Agreed. I'm not into hero worship but Bonatti and Heckmair are about as near as it gets. I was lucky enough to meet both of them some years ago. They were guests at a CC or Alpine Club dinner, can't remember which but I was awe struck.
In reply to Robert Durran:
I think "On The Heights" has a chapter on the first ascent of the Bonatti/Gobbi, but I can't find my copy at the moment.
It seems that the whole of that side of Mt Blanc, from the Col du Brouillard to Col Moore has become much harder of access in recent years with the possible exception of the Inominata ridge. The Freney face was always "interesting" and certainly committing but the Brouillard pillars weren't too bad to get too and access to the GPA whilst variable was mainly problematic due to serac/avalanche from the Pear/Route Major face.
ALC
I think "On The Heights" has a chapter on the first ascent of the Bonatti/Gobbi, but I can't find my copy at the moment.
It seems that the whole of that side of Mt Blanc, from the Col du Brouillard to Col Moore has become much harder of access in recent years with the possible exception of the Inominata ridge. The Freney face was always "interesting" and certainly committing but the Brouillard pillars weren't too bad to get too and access to the GPA whilst variable was mainly problematic due to serac/avalanche from the Pear/Route Major face.
ALC
In reply to Rick Graham:
Do you not think giving grades to routes like these is pretty silly? They're big, hard, dangerous and committing. What else does the aspiring ascentionist need to know?!
> (In reply to Rick Graham)
>
> Forgot to mention it was graded TD+ in the old AC guide.
>
> What a joke, A grade harder than the Walker, say, think ED1 or easy 2.
>
> Forgot to mention it was graded TD+ in the old AC guide.
>
> What a joke, A grade harder than the Walker, say, think ED1 or easy 2.
Do you not think giving grades to routes like these is pretty silly? They're big, hard, dangerous and committing. What else does the aspiring ascentionist need to know?!
In reply to a lakeland climber:
I thought so. I read it a long time ago but I think it has been out of print for many years because Bonatti didn't like the translation. Hence the more recent "highlights" translation as "Mountains of my Life".
The Brouillard Pillars were straightforward to get to from the Eccles, but I've never known such incessant stonefall as when making a rapidly aborted attempt on the right hand Pillar!
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> I think "On The Heights" has a chapter on the first ascent of the Bonatti/Gobbi, but I can't find my copy at the moment.
>
> I think "On The Heights" has a chapter on the first ascent of the Bonatti/Gobbi, but I can't find my copy at the moment.
I thought so. I read it a long time ago but I think it has been out of print for many years because Bonatti didn't like the translation. Hence the more recent "highlights" translation as "Mountains of my Life".
> It seems that the whole of that side of Mt Blanc, from the Col du Brouillard to Col Moore has become much harder of access in recent years with the possible exception of the Inominata ridge. The Freney face was always "interesting" and certainly committing but the Brouillard pillars weren't too bad to get to
The Brouillard Pillars were straightforward to get to from the Eccles, but I've never known such incessant stonefall as when making a rapidly aborted attempt on the right hand Pillar!
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
OK then ED1/ED2-.
A big committing alpine route by most peoples standards but not as hard or dangerous as an ED 5 or whatever the top routes are nowadays.
> (In reply to Rick Graham)
> [...]
>
> Do you not think giving grades to routes like these is pretty silly? They're big, hard, dangerous and committing. What else does the aspiring ascentionist need to know?!
> [...]
>
> Do you not think giving grades to routes like these is pretty silly? They're big, hard, dangerous and committing. What else does the aspiring ascentionist need to know?!
OK then ED1/ED2-.
A big committing alpine route by most peoples standards but not as hard or dangerous as an ED 5 or whatever the top routes are nowadays.
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
How big, how hard, how dangerous perhaps?
> (In reply to Rick Graham)
> Do you not think giving grades to routes like these is pretty silly? They're big, hard, dangerous and committing. What else does the aspiring ascentionist need to know?!
> Do you not think giving grades to routes like these is pretty silly? They're big, hard, dangerous and committing. What else does the aspiring ascentionist need to know?!
How big, how hard, how dangerous perhaps?
In reply to Rick Graham:
Luca probably has more sources, but until he turns up -
http://www.jstor.org/stable/1646218?seq=1
and a newspaper report from singapore (!!)
http://newspapers.nl.sg/Digitised/Article/straitstimes19210106.2.8.aspx
which sounds similar to the issues of global warming today!
and a fairly modern report
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S027737910800293X
figure 6 is the relevant bit
Luca probably has more sources, but until he turns up -
http://www.jstor.org/stable/1646218?seq=1
and a newspaper report from singapore (!!)
http://newspapers.nl.sg/Digitised/Article/straitstimes19210106.2.8.aspx
which sounds similar to the issues of global warming today!
and a fairly modern report
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S027737910800293X
figure 6 is the relevant bit
In reply to Rick Graham:
It makes me wish I'd been a geologist - the detective work defining the Brenva and Val Ferret avalanches would have been the bees knees of excuses for pottering about on the hill.
It makes me wish I'd been a geologist - the detective work defining the Brenva and Val Ferret avalanches would have been the bees knees of excuses for pottering about on the hill.
In reply to pneame:
And beginning to get a bit off-topic - a thesis with some great historical pictures
http://www.climatestudies.unibe.ch/students/theses/msc/33.pdf
And beginning to get a bit off-topic - a thesis with some great historical pictures
http://www.climatestudies.unibe.ch/students/theses/msc/33.pdf
In reply to pneame:
That makes T Graham Brown's exploits on the Brenva Face all the more remarkable! Sentinel Rouge 1927, The Major 1928 and The Pear 1933.
That makes T Graham Brown's exploits on the Brenva Face all the more remarkable! Sentinel Rouge 1927, The Major 1928 and The Pear 1933.
In reply to jon:
Certainly - he must have known about the avalanche. Perhaps he reasoned "well, that's out of the way - won't happen again for a bit".
But folks of that era, it seems to me, were not quite as risk-averse, or took the time to asses risks over some time (years) rather than todays "get out and do it now" approach.
Or perhaps I don't really know....
Those were remarkable routes for their time.
Certainly - he must have known about the avalanche. Perhaps he reasoned "well, that's out of the way - won't happen again for a bit".
But folks of that era, it seems to me, were not quite as risk-averse, or took the time to asses risks over some time (years) rather than todays "get out and do it now" approach.
Or perhaps I don't really know....
Those were remarkable routes for their time.
In reply to jon:
From the photo in the third link it looks like the 1920's rockfall was from the left side of the Pilier d'Angle and would not have affected the Brenva routes approached from Col Moore. The 1990's one left of Col Moore I presume helps explains the current lack of traffic on the Brenva routes.
Forget the Bonatti/Gobbi, when did anyone last climb the Pear?!
> (In reply to pneame)
>
> That makes T Graham Brown's exploits on the Brenva Face all the more remarkable! Sentinel Rouge 1927, The Major 1928 and The Pear 1933.
>
> That makes T Graham Brown's exploits on the Brenva Face all the more remarkable! Sentinel Rouge 1927, The Major 1928 and The Pear 1933.
From the photo in the third link it looks like the 1920's rockfall was from the left side of the Pilier d'Angle and would not have affected the Brenva routes approached from Col Moore. The 1990's one left of Col Moore I presume helps explains the current lack of traffic on the Brenva routes.
Forget the Bonatti/Gobbi, when did anyone last climb the Pear?!
In reply to Robert Durran:
I rather thought a massive rockfall like that might make you question the stability of the rest of the face only a few years afterwards...
As for the Pear, well I know someone who did it in the 80s... wait for it... as part of his aspirant guides training! Not British, I should add!
I rather thought a massive rockfall like that might make you question the stability of the rest of the face only a few years afterwards...
As for the Pear, well I know someone who did it in the 80s... wait for it... as part of his aspirant guides training! Not British, I should add!
In reply to jon: yes, a stunning 'tryptych' of first ascents! The Via Della Pera was climbed in 13 hours from the Torino hut " we had no need for the lantern", to the summit of Mont Blanc.
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> I rather thought a massive rockfall like that might make you question the stability of the rest of the face only a few years afterwards...
>
If you have Brenva I think fig 43 may show the 'missing bit' just left of the Pear. If I am right, I would be questioning the general stability of everything nearby!>
> I rather thought a massive rockfall like that might make you question the stability of the rest of the face only a few years afterwards...
>
In reply to MG:
I have it right in front of me! (possibly the most nerdy mountaineering book I have) It does look very scoured...... I don't know.
> (In reply to jon)
> If you have Brenva I think fig 43 may show the 'missing bit' just left of the Pear. If I am right, I would be questioning the general stability of everything nearby!
I have it right in front of me! (possibly the most nerdy mountaineering book I have) It does look very scoured...... I don't know.
In reply to Robert Durran: If anyone would like a copy of the paper linked above and can't access it, send me an email. It is interesting.
In reply to MG:
The diagram of the Brenva Glacier in that paper sems to show the 1920 fall being too near the Aiguille Blanche to be from the scoured area in Fig 43 of Brenva.
> (In reply to Robert Durran) If anyone would like a copy of the paper linked above and can't access it, send me an email. It is interesting.
The diagram of the Brenva Glacier in that paper sems to show the 1920 fall being too near the Aiguille Blanche to be from the scoured area in Fig 43 of Brenva.
In reply to jon:
Except that there are all sorts of immediate causes for an avalanche, the majority of which we don't know. The dru is a pretty much bog-standard exfoliation process, whereas the Brenda face is more complex. The eckpfeiler, on the other hand, is more like the dru. In my opinion, anyway!
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> I rather thought a massive rockfall like that might make you question the stability of the rest of the face only a few years afterwards...
>
> I rather thought a massive rockfall like that might make you question the stability of the rest of the face only a few years afterwards...
Except that there are all sorts of immediate causes for an avalanche, the majority of which we don't know. The dru is a pretty much bog-standard exfoliation process, whereas the Brenda face is more complex. The eckpfeiler, on the other hand, is more like the dru. In my opinion, anyway!
In reply to Robert Durran: Yes,you're right. I can't see any other evidence of it in the figures, oddly.
In reply to pneame: must dig into brenva again.. It's not light reading!
In reply to Robert Durran:
I know one ( English ) dark horse who soloed the Pear Major and Sentinel Rouge in a 3 week holiday. He gave me the impression he didn't bother doing any other routes that trip !
>
> Forget the Bonatti/Gobbi, when did anyone last climb the Pear?!
> Forget the Bonatti/Gobbi, when did anyone last climb the Pear?!
I know one ( English ) dark horse who soloed the Pear Major and Sentinel Rouge in a 3 week holiday. He gave me the impression he didn't bother doing any other routes that trip !
In reply to Robert Durran:
I don't have it here with me. What is the date of his opening paragraphs when he's in the Val Veni just after the war, and gazing up at the Brenva face?
Though he's never seen the face before, it's been his fantasy during all the years of the war to climb it and it's largely this that's kept him going. He knows of the existence of the Old Brenva and imagines his routes to be on the massive face to the left. When he finally sees the face he's devastated to see the Old Brenva squarely in the middle of the face with hardly any room to the left of it... that is until he realises that he's staring at the unclimbed line of The Major and the Old Brenva is way over on the right! Nerdy - I think that's fabulous. Of course later, when he links his endless footnotes to the B+W photos in the back... well OK, that's nerdy.
> (In reply to MG)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> I have it right in front of me! (possibly the most nerdy mountaineering book I have) It does look very scoured...... I don't know.
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> I have it right in front of me! (possibly the most nerdy mountaineering book I have) It does look very scoured...... I don't know.
I don't have it here with me. What is the date of his opening paragraphs when he's in the Val Veni just after the war, and gazing up at the Brenva face?
Though he's never seen the face before, it's been his fantasy during all the years of the war to climb it and it's largely this that's kept him going. He knows of the existence of the Old Brenva and imagines his routes to be on the massive face to the left. When he finally sees the face he's devastated to see the Old Brenva squarely in the middle of the face with hardly any room to the left of it... that is until he realises that he's staring at the unclimbed line of The Major and the Old Brenva is way over on the right! Nerdy - I think that's fabulous. Of course later, when he links his endless footnotes to the B+W photos in the back... well OK, that's nerdy.
In reply to jon:
1926
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
> I don't have it here with me. What is the date of his opening paragraphs when he's in the Val Veni just after the war, and gazing up at the Brenva face?
> I don't have it here with me. What is the date of his opening paragraphs when he's in the Val Veni just after the war, and gazing up at the Brenva face?
1926
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
> [...]
>
> I don't have it here with me. What is the date of his opening paragraphs when he's in the Val Veni just after the war, and gazing up at the Brenva face?
>
My copy is at work and I don't plan on going in tomorrow! I would guess having gone through ww1 gives one a rather different view of objective hazards. I simply can't imagine it. > [...]
>
> I don't have it here with me. What is the date of his opening paragraphs when he's in the Val Veni just after the war, and gazing up at the Brenva face?
>
In reply to pneame: he refers to his ' old daydream of a wonderful precipice there that eased many wearysome days during the Great War......so good a friend.........'
Of course there is the poem at the beginning of chapter 2.....
Of course there is the poem at the beginning of chapter 2.....
In reply to Pete Graham:
Been on the list for the last few years, just been waiting for the right combination of weather, conditions, partner & leave period.
Hopefully this will be the year that they all finally come together.
But yes, dosent seem to get much traffic nowadays.
> Has anyone climbed this in recent years? Seems like it used to be a classic big tick, but you never hear of anyone climbing it these days. Is there a reason for this?
Been on the list for the last few years, just been waiting for the right combination of weather, conditions, partner & leave period.
Hopefully this will be the year that they all finally come together.
But yes, dosent seem to get much traffic nowadays.
In reply to Pete Graham: It has a reputation for being extremely loose, as in, you're trapped in a massive diagonal chimney, and you're belaying the leader who is 30 metres above you making tricky steep moves on tottering granite blocks which you will not dodge if they come down... I think there are much better big routes on the south side of Mt Blanc, to be honest.
In reply to davidoldfart:
Good to get back on topic.
I think your assessment is OTT.
Just read the AC description again (1990 guide). This looks a pretty fair and accurate assessment of the route. A route for an average alpine rock climber to climb the GPA without the E5 difficulties of Divine Providence. The rock was not particularly inferior to classic routes I had done recently on the Dru, Blatiere Peigne Capucin.
Good to get back on topic.
I think your assessment is OTT.
Just read the AC description again (1990 guide). This looks a pretty fair and accurate assessment of the route. A route for an average alpine rock climber to climb the GPA without the E5 difficulties of Divine Providence. The rock was not particularly inferior to classic routes I had done recently on the Dru, Blatiere Peigne Capucin.
In reply to davidoldfart:
) It has a reputation for being extremely loose, as in, you're trapped in a massive diagonal chimney, and you're belaying the leader who is 30 metres above you making tricky steep moves on tottering granite blocks which you will not dodge if they come down... I think there are much better big routes on the south side of Mt Blanc, to be honest.
Thought the consensus nowadays was that you can take a more direct crack line to start the route, joining the chimney line high up therefore avoiding most of the chimney.
) It has a reputation for being extremely loose, as in, you're trapped in a massive diagonal chimney, and you're belaying the leader who is 30 metres above you making tricky steep moves on tottering granite blocks which you will not dodge if they come down... I think there are much better big routes on the south side of Mt Blanc, to be honest.
Thought the consensus nowadays was that you can take a more direct crack line to start the route, joining the chimney line high up therefore avoiding most of the chimney.
In reply to Rick Graham:
I remember Pete Holden and Chris Radcliffe climing the Bonatti Gobbi in 1974. Here's Chris's account, pages 12 and 13: http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/newsletters/2012/July%202012%20c.pdf
I remember Pete Holden and Chris Radcliffe climing the Bonatti Gobbi in 1974. Here's Chris's account, pages 12 and 13: http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/newsletters/2012/July%202012%20c.pdf
In reply to jon:
Brilliant. Takes me back to being a young upstart in the Cleveland club.
Most of the early British ascents were by climbers from or associated to the Teesside area. The likes of Al Dewison , Ron Lake, Pete Holden and Joe Tasker used to show slides of their summer adventures at the CMC mid week pub night.
Probably why I chose the BG as a logical progression after routes like the American Direct and Bonatti pillar.
One slide still haunts me though. A boot width crack up an impending headwall, hundreds of feet long. An amazing shot but never saw it as I climbed the chimneys.
>
> I remember Pete Holden and Chris Radcliffe climing the Bonatti Gobbi in 1974. Here's Chris's account, pages 12 and 13: http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/newsletters/2012/July%202012%20c.pdf
> I remember Pete Holden and Chris Radcliffe climing the Bonatti Gobbi in 1974. Here's Chris's account, pages 12 and 13: http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/newsletters/2012/July%202012%20c.pdf
Brilliant. Takes me back to being a young upstart in the Cleveland club.
Most of the early British ascents were by climbers from or associated to the Teesside area. The likes of Al Dewison , Ron Lake, Pete Holden and Joe Tasker used to show slides of their summer adventures at the CMC mid week pub night.
Probably why I chose the BG as a logical progression after routes like the American Direct and Bonatti pillar.
One slide still haunts me though. A boot width crack up an impending headwall, hundreds of feet long. An amazing shot but never saw it as I climbed the chimneys.
In reply to Rick Graham:
Yes, I seem to remember Pete giving a talk called Little Man, Big Mountains! I'm sure the BG featured in it...
Yes, I seem to remember Pete giving a talk called Little Man, Big Mountains! I'm sure the BG featured in it...
In reply to Pete Graham:
I've just dug out a copy of issue 3 from August 1993 of the sadly very short-lived "Mountain Review" magazine in which there is an article called "Paradise Regained" in which "Andy Macnae introduces seven routes chosen by those in the know that have few pegs, fewer ascents but lots of great climbing". Andy himself writes rather too briefly about a truly harrowing ascent of the BG in 1990. There is a small topo; TD (!) with loose chimneys up to VI featuring prominently. It's a good article (though being one of those "in the know" I would say that!) I could arrange a scan if anyone wants a copy
I've just dug out a copy of issue 3 from August 1993 of the sadly very short-lived "Mountain Review" magazine in which there is an article called "Paradise Regained" in which "Andy Macnae introduces seven routes chosen by those in the know that have few pegs, fewer ascents but lots of great climbing". Andy himself writes rather too briefly about a truly harrowing ascent of the BG in 1990. There is a small topo; TD (!) with loose chimneys up to VI featuring prominently. It's a good article (though being one of those "in the know" I would say that!) I could arrange a scan if anyone wants a copy
In reply to Robert Durran:
Hi Rob
Yes. It would be good to read that article again.
thanks Rick
>
> I've just dug out a copy of issue 3 from August 1993 of the sadly very short-lived "Mountain Review" magazine in which there is an article called "Paradise Regained" in which "Andy Macnae introduces seven routes chosen by those in the know that have few pegs, fewer ascents but lots of great climbing". Andy himself writes rather too briefly about a truly harrowing ascent of the BG in 1990. There is a small topo; TD (!) with loose chimneys up to VI featuring prominently. It's a good article (though being one of those "in the know" I would say that!) I could arrange a scan if anyone wants a copy
> I've just dug out a copy of issue 3 from August 1993 of the sadly very short-lived "Mountain Review" magazine in which there is an article called "Paradise Regained" in which "Andy Macnae introduces seven routes chosen by those in the know that have few pegs, fewer ascents but lots of great climbing". Andy himself writes rather too briefly about a truly harrowing ascent of the BG in 1990. There is a small topo; TD (!) with loose chimneys up to VI featuring prominently. It's a good article (though being one of those "in the know" I would say that!) I could arrange a scan if anyone wants a copy
Hi Rob
Yes. It would be good to read that article again.
thanks Rick
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