In reply to Ali: Thanks Ali!
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A quick summary of last week:
13/5 M 55' run around Wepre Park (Ewloe Castle) - good random core stuff (uneven ground & terrain). Calf muscles didn't hurt afterward this time! Good result.
14/5 Tu Sport climbing @ Ty Newydd, Dyserth (
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17351): Most This stuff was way to hard for me to lead, so I settled for working some routes confidently on Top Rope. Made it to the top of "Wild Garlic" 6b cleanly, then spent the rest of the evening trying to work out "Girls will perform" 6b. Made 2 dogged ascents of it, where the crux just clicked (finding the invisible crimp is key!). Worked it out, so considering a return visit to Lead it.
15/5 W A quick 30' run to Ewloe Castle and back because going to see Star Trek film with work colleagues.
16/5 Th It looked like rain, so I went to Prestatyn Sports Centre with the express aim of doing circuits on a long overhanging V1 route I knew was there. Managed 2.5 circuits twice, and also did a few other Vb/V1/V2 routes for fun. Happy with the results, 1.5 hours climbing in all.
17/5 F Nothing
18/5 Sa 4 hours of driving, followed by 4 hours of karting at a Stag Do. Wow, that really works the arms and shoulders!
Oh, and came 3rd in the GP (competitive streak exercised).
19/5 Drive back to Gwynedd, then went for a 1h 10' run around the hills behind Bethesda. Lovely to be out in the sun and fresh air, so much so that I sat down and had a power nap near a disused quarry to the sound of water trickling over the rock!
So really only about 45' running...
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GOALS.
Ok, I've avoided goals for a while. These are the last ones I can find, from way back on UKCFC317:
STG: Get outside this week onto some rock and attack a familiar 6a or two;
STG: Back onto dieting properly (instead of coasting)
STG: More Trad practice at sub-HVS 5a and below in prep for May's Pembroke Trip (was MTG)
MTG: Learn to trad lead: on track.
LTG: On-sight Leading E2 5c, 6B sport outside, 6C sport inside (revised targets).
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First, let's get it out of the way: Diet. I've been looking at BF% graphs, and I'm on the low end of "normal" (16%) for my age group (40-49 - yes, I know :o ) and gender. So I'm not going to worry too much about that as I'm the leanest I've been since I was rowing 20+ hours a week in 1998! So the goal here is maintenance: continue to eat healthily and maybe exercise/train a bit harder to lower that number, but it's not a deal breaker.
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So that brings the next bit: Strength & Fitness. I know there's no benefit in just bulking up for climbing, so I'm going to try to find routes that I can work. Finger strength is a worry having had 2 minor pulls in the past 6 months, but as long as I tape them, they're ok. I'm aware that climbing-specific fitness benefits can best be achieved either by bouldering circuits or in the gym. The only downside is that this will go to pot if the weather improves and I'm climbing with partners again. Oh, the conundrum...!
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Let's get to climbing! Outdoors: My rock-reading has improved over the past month, so confidence is good. I am climbing sometimes with "Leader Never Falls" old-world tradders, which isn't good for trusting gear, but I do have bolder climbing friends too (old AND bold). I am very aware that I'm quite bold in my trad leading, often putting in less gear than I maybe should. But after seeing a very experienced friend happily fall on a single cam when we did World's End about a month ago, I need to at least build up to resting on gear between moves. I also learned a lot about "protecting the move" in Pembroke, which made the whole trad experience more enjoyable, so that will come with experience.
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So I think that makes my new goals:
STG: Maintain Body Fat percentage.
STG: Nurse the finger (TAPE) but not too much
STG: Actually use the Beastmaker properly when on my "Being a Dad" weekends.
MTG: Include Body Weight/Strength circuits at least once a week.
STG: Lead 6b doggedly outdoors (best last year was 6a+ dogged onsight, Llanddulas Cave).
MTG: Regularly lead around HS-VS to broaden experience & gain confidence in placements and ability.
MTG: Lead 6b outdoors, clean repeat.
MTG: Lead E2 5b in good style.
LTG: Lead E2 5c doggedly (hopefully this year).
LTG: Lead 6b clean onsight (probably not this year).
Too much? Feedback appreciated...