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Topic - Replacing belay loop with accessory cord?

Matt Amos - on 19 May 2013
I recently damaged the belay loop on my harness, probably by getting the edge of it caught in a karabiner which was later loaded. Its very frayed on one edge, and however sure I am that its safe to climb on (only very slightly damaged) I'm not going to risk it!
I have replaced it with a double loop of 6mm accessory cord tied with a double fisherman's bend. Before I use it, would anyone mind commenting on the idea.Here's my thinking;

1 Strength. The belay loop is rated at 25kN, each strand of cord is 7.5kN. 4 strands is 30kN or does the mechanics not work so simply. And does having only one knot lower the strength? And I'm leaving the original sewn loop on anyway.

2 knot. Pretty sure the double fisherman's bend is the best choice. But what length tails? I want it to work! but I don't want the tails catching in the belay device?

3. Only clipping one loop by accident could be a problem, but I'd be the only one using it and it would be something I'd remember!


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