/ Well protected E1s Bristol
all of suspension bridge buttress is super safe routes. And very good.
I think all are E1 5b -
Earl of Perth
Unfortunately, they're all currently bird banned.
Outside of that the only one I can think of is M1. Which is a nice safe route and good climbing too.
Unfortunately I cant think of any others...might well be though. Lots of very safe E2s if you want to push the boat? Certainly Banshee and New Horizons II you can count as sport route safe. So take the falls and work the sequence :)
also thinking about it. Till the bird ban comes off (I cant recommend those 5 routes enough, they're all 2/3 star awesome) Goblin combe might be the better bet for safe E1's. Very close to Bristol.
Gollum is a good E1 5b
As you've mentioned M1, what about M2 next to it ? Arguably easier and doesn't have the tricky traverse of M1. I'd say M2 was borderline HVS/E1.
Or go over the severn bridge to Wintour's Leap and do the top pitch of Surrealist. A classic. The top bit above the break is a bit intimidating the first time you do it but the gear is great.
Or walk over to North Buttress and do Notung. Good gear at the bottom which steadily thins out as you go higher (but the top feels more like VS/HVS).
Or walk over to Fly Wall and do Wurlitzer. Gear next by your hip on the first crux (the traverse on p2) and a wire by your nose on the second (the last short wall, with the finger slot where you have to crank and smear).
At Goblin Combe, I thought Gollum was hard at HVS, Gundabad easy at E1 and Bullroarer pumpy.
At Avon, M1, M2 and the Suspension Bridge routes mentioned above are good.
Simba at Lion Rock Cheddar is fairly tough, but has bomber gear all the way and excellent climbing, highly recommended. Dinner Date also on the North side of the Gorge looks reasonable at E1, but I've not done it so can't comment on the gear.
The Firebird at Wyndcliff is quite bold to start (VS/HVS section) but the crux has a peg plus back up and the upper groove is well protected
Bad to the Bone at FCQ is probably HVS 5b but gets the E1 grade, well protected (take slings and cams).
Trouble is with a post like this, although many people will very helpfully answer your original question (specifically about well-protected routes), some will just recommend routes they happen to have done, or happened to enjoy.
Some of the above recommendations are adequately protected at best, others are well-protected but the gear is strenuous or awkward to place. One or two suggestions are downright bold! For example, in the light of your OP I would NOT recommend Notung, which has several long run outs.
At Goblin Combe the easiest and best-protected E1 is Gundabad (take plenty of small wires). Gollum is fair at E1 5b and pretty well-protected, but be aware that you have to hold a slightly strenuous layback position to place a crucial piece (in the base of the flake). If you fail to place this piece (or it falls out) then the route becomes bold. Black Riders is a similar story - plenty of gear but some has to be placed mid-crux.
At Shorn Cliff, Side Effects and the Bone are pretty well-protected, but a couple of placements on these are a bit fiddly. On the same buttress is Tigers Don't Cry, which is top end HVS and awkward, but very well-protected.
Bad to the Bone is bottom end of E1 and well-protected. The other E1s at Fairy Cave are significantly bolder.
A fair point. Though in defence of Gollum i'd say it is strenuous to place the crucial gear, but it's really easy to traverse back to the no hands rest. I spent ages whimping back and forth to fiddle in more gear :)
Gollum was HVS when i did it and i think it still is.
I think you're a sandbagging evil b*stard :)
Don't get "preciousss" about Gollum.
No seriously, i did it when it was given HVS 5b and distinctly remember thinking that was spot on
I don't know, hvs 5b to me says hard but very safe/easy to protect. While I think the crux is protectable, it's strenuous and fiddly and it's a crucial piece. I think it's adequate rather than bomber which hvs 5b suggests. If there was a thread of something there instead then definitely. But I don't have the best eye for small wires in limestone and tend to underrate them, so it's very possible I'm just a whimp.
Personally it felt harder the limbo or m1 at the same grade. But I think they're both consider fairly soft touches
Depravity? The technical crux (first pitch) seemed pretty safe; can remember absolutely nothing about the other pitches, but they're presumably easier. Was going to suggest Kranz but I see it's E2 - still pretty safe though. The downside is that I'm trying to remember from 30 to 35 years ago, so more recent opinion would probably be welcome.
Fair enough, i was onsighting E2/E3 at the time so it would have naturally felt straight forward.
I'd struggle on it now though!! :(
> Fair enough, i was onsighting E2/E3 at the time so it would have naturally felt straight forward.
> I'd struggle on it now though!! :(
Actually, thinking about it, I find the first bit of Gollum the hardest, and the steep bit relatively straightforward.
There are surprisingly few to choose from. M1, Dinner Date and No Musketeers direct all fit the bill. Notung is very good but is not my idea of well protected. King Kong? The hardest bits are are short and can be made safe, but both P1 and 2 will be a challenge and you need a reasonably steady team.
>...Depravity... the other pitches... they're presumably easier.
The other pitches are definitely easier than the first.
Elsewhere on the site
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more
A fantastically versatile little pack; whether out running in the hills, hitting the trails on the bike or just running for the... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more