/ Not enough quick draws
My question is if I'm climbing sport and I'm on a route with more than 3 bolts would it be ok to use 2 screwgates on the anchors instead of 2 quick draws? So I could so a route with 5 bolts?
I couldn't see why not but just double checking?
What I've done:
If you have skinny slings, could use the 4 screwgates and 2 slings to make 2 extendable draws.
I prefer to use those at a two bolt anchor, rather than just two screw gates.
Thanks guys :)
You wouldn't want to do that if the anchor was set back slightly. Try and avoid situations where the rope runs over loads of rock, especially at the top.
Also avoid if the bolts are set in such a way that the rope running between the screwgated bolts runs over rock. That rarely happens with QDs because that little bit of extension makes all the difference.
more than a third of my quickdraws are alpine draws made from 7mm accessory cord with a double fishermans forming a 120cm loop. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4QfF-_gAZ4 dirt cheap, handy for rescues and lots of abseil tat. when extending, clip the loop with the knot for snag free extension. will need binning sooner than slings though.k
My advice would be to buy more quickdraws - you're going to need them soon enough.
Alpine draws are dreadful for sport, they don't lend themselves to quick clips or dogging.
you'd be better using slings the 7mm cord once lengthened is weaker than most of your trad gear!
You think? I love mine for working routes. Clipping them can be a pain though when the krabs have flipped.
So if clipping them is a pain what are the plus points? Must admit I'm struggling to see them - more cluttered/tangled on harness, harder to grab, likely to abrade against rock faster..
If you're on a route with less than 3 bolts.....you're still bouldering ;)
i agree - but consider the lengths - all short or mixed lengths. I usually have 1 alpine draw for sport in the bag incase of a non straight line to reduce drag but don't like them that much.
there are usually great bargains to be had on quickdraws in shops, on here but not on ebay!
> you'd be better using slings the 7mm cord once lengthened is weaker than most of your trad gear!
more risk more fun! Only joking.
breaking strength for standard 7mm is about 10kN, so looped with a double fishermans id expect slightly more than 15kN which im comfortable with. as stevo says its not quite 22Kn. there are thicker cords or fancier materials if you want to go stronger.
You can pick up some very decent deals on QD's at the moment. Talking £50 for 5 or 6, I know Dick's Climbing are doing 5 x Spectre 2 QDs for £50, and you can pix'n'n'mix the sizes between 12cm/18cm/25cm. Hes also got 5 x Clog QDs for £40 if you want them for sport. Joe Browns and Ellis B have some great deals also, haven't looked at needle sports.
It might be me being stupid but, if the breaking strength is 10kN and you are putting any kind of knot in it, it lowers the breaking strength. Hence why people say that a Fo8 knot is safer then a Bowline, as a Fo8 retains 80% of the ropes strength but a Bowline only retains 75%.
> It might be me being stupid but, if the breaking strength is 10kN and you are putting any kind of knot in it, it lowers the breaking strength. Hence why people say that a Fo8 knot is safer then a Bowline, as a Fo8 retains 80% of the ropes strength but a Bowline only retains 75%.
He has already assumed the df decreases the strength of cord by 25%.
The difference between 75% and 80% is 1/20th of your full strength. That's not much reason to chose one knot over another. As far as tie in knots go, the reason people shun the bowline is mostly because the FoE is thought safer for non-strength related reasons (no stopper needed, last thread can be skipped, more familiar)
not stupid at all. True, any knot will weaken the overall strength but where its formed in a loop your now working with two strands doubling its strength so you loose bit and gain a lot.
Adjustable length, not fussy about gate direction since they're so floppy and being able to put your wrist into the sling for a low stress grip when pumped. The awkward hung up krab is sometimes a headache but one I can cope with.
would definatly be worth buying longish quick-draws which can be used 4 trad aswell rather than the short stubby draws which are really only good for sport imo.
Exactly. The OP is clearly just going through a sport-climbing "phase" and will inevitably in time move to the One True Path that is trad.
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