/ Which rope and gear for Paklenika, Croatia?

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tlm - on 20 May 2013
So, it says we will need a 60 metre sports rope for the sports climbs, but recommends 2x50m for the multipitch! We aren't going to take both, because of weight restrictions. So I turn to the good folk of UKC for advice!

Also, what trad gear (if any) should we take.

We are raging bumblies, so will be on the easiest stuff available.
floss_81 on 20 May 2013
We took a 70m single.Some others in the group had half ropes bit we found we used the singles each day out of ease. Even for the multi pitch stuff. Do MOSORASKI it great! Enjoy your trip
tlm - on 20 May 2013
In reply to floss_81:

What about gear? Will we need it for the multipitch stuff? Do you have any recommendations?
full stottie on 20 May 2013
In reply to tlm:
We managed fine with a 60m rope, inc for the multipitch. Took a small selection of cams, a set of nuts and a few slings - probably a half rack at most, but found it was plenty. We took some ab tat and two mallions in case we had problems on multi-pitch descents but didn't need them.
Have fun.
Dave
tlm - on 20 May 2013
In reply to tlm:

Thanks very much all! This is very helpful. We will take our sports rope and a bit of gear then... Not long now, got our kunas!
Owen W-G - on 20 May 2013
In reply to full stottie:

Second that. One set of wires, 3 mid cams, a few more slings than usual for a sport hol should do the trick. Don't bother with full rack.

One 60m sport rope should be fine provided you are not planning on aborting from the top of some 9 pitch monster route!
Blue Straggler - on 20 May 2013
In reply to tlm:
> So, it says we will need a 60 metre sports rope for the sports climbs, but recommends 2x50m for the multipitch! We aren't going to take both, because of weight restrictions.

Your other baggage needs may be way different to mine but we managed a single 6 and a pair of 60mm halves plus a reasonably comprehensive (maybe 2/3 of my full one) rack between two of us - in amongst our other stuff - with standard 20kg baggage allowance on easyJet flying to Sardinia. The half ropes were at the top of my "ditch it if we go overweight" list though, and we only really used them on one multipitch to save the number of abseils but would have been fine really just using the 60m single on that one. We had had big visions of monster multipitch routes but didn't do them in the end.
tlm - on 20 May 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:

It's not my baggage needs...

...but Duncan needs ALL of those shoes, and his make-up bag...

Nah - I just can't be bothered to take 3 ropes when 1 will do. I'm very minimal in my needs...
Blue Straggler - on 20 May 2013
In reply to tlm:

I don't know the multipitch routes in Paklenica but I assume you ab off them. Assuming each pitch is no longer than about 25m then a single 60m should be fine but obviously the half-ropes would get you down quicker....but how many of those routes would you do, how much time would you save, and are there other reasons to use halves?

In hindsight we'd have been fine in Sardinia with just our single, and the only time I did a weirdly bolted route that could have used trad back-up, was when I'd left the trad rack behind. Spicy times!

(I have climbed in Croatia but not Paklenica, we were in Istria. The grades were all over the place!)
Robert Durran - on 20 May 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:
> (In reply to tlm)
>
> I don't know the multipitch routes in Paklenica but I assume you ab off them.

For the routes oin Anika Kuk, you walk down (or at least everyone did when i went), but personanally I would still take double ropes just in case of retreat.
tlm - on 20 May 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

No retreat for us! We shall push onwards and upwards. We tend to be modest in our choice of routes so tend not to have epic retreats, and the descents are walking ones...
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Zgemba - on 22 May 2013
In reply to tlm:
60m single will be fine if you are not going to retreat.
Most hard parts are bolted very well, but easier pitches can be quite run-out. As others have pointed out, a few mid sized cams and small selection of wires will be enough. I find offsets work better in irregular limestone features than regular nuts, but that is just me. Take long draws and slings as rope drag can get quite hideous from time to time.

Also, if you are going to climb any of the routes on the lower Stup (Domzalski, Danaja, highly recommended, Trik or Karabore for a bit more of an adventure) you can just barely abseil down the 'Absseil pista using a 70m single. But you can of course also continue up the 'Brid za veliki cekic' and top out on the western part of Anica Kuk.


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