/ Teaching a blind man to boulder, from scratch
So I've been doing some thinking, and have come up with one idea to help him climb, but wondered if the collective UKC conciousness could think of more.
My idea is this (and I've tested it on blindfolded volunteers)...
Take a problem with large, protruding holds (or stick some drawing pins in the wall near the holds), and wrap string around each hold, and along to the next one. The climber can then follow the string with their hands, with it getting in the way of their climbing very little. It seems to work quite well, although I haven't tried it with the blind lad yet (that's tomorrow).
So does anybody have any more ideas as to how I can help him climb more autonomously, but follow routes, and challenge himself?
How about recording an audio guide to a series of problems, similar to the advice you're giving but he could listen and relisten independently? It would only be the descriptions of where and what the holds were, he'd have to work out the beta himself of how to use the holds. The string sounds ok but a bit fiddly/ drawing attention to him whereas lots of people climb with iPods on.
I don't like drawing pins anywhere near people in bare feet or climbing shoes, alothugh the string sounds like a good idea, for hand holds at least.
There was an item on blind climbing on radio 4 today, mentioned a course at glenmore lodge for blind climbers and something to do with an MCoS section for blind climbers, IIRC.
If you haven't already you should ask him what he wants, what ideas he has. He might not mind the challenge of finding the holds, even if it takes a few extra falls. Also it's ok to let your clients help him, freeing you up, some people like helping
Having said that maybe you could rig up some sound emitting devices, maybe attach them to the holds with rubber bands/magnets/blu-tac?
Somewhere like Maplin would be able to help with the electronics bit. Cell battery/holder, buzzer/sounder, maybe a switch. Imagine you could do it for £3 each. Might even be able to make a device worth sharing?
Good luck with it anyway
Sounds good, it's cool that you've put effort into it for him, giving him something to look forward to! I reckon he'll soon develop a technique like scanning with a hand for holds.
I'd love for blind climbers to be able to watch this. But that's the cruelty of it. Scanning seems to work for those guys, even on lead.
Using a board (or lump of plasticine maybe or a mini sculp of the wall made with papier mache) and small lumps of blue tack you could quickly create a mini plan of the problem for him to feel and memorise before climbing.
The mini plan is a good idea. How about a verbal commentary composed of a series of pre-agreed codes smilar to what rally drivers and their navigators use?
I know someone who is involved in blind lead climbing comps (international), the competitors have someone shouting out where the holds are as you have been doing. They also have a mini model as has been suggested, using some sort of braille. Apparently in Russia, someone got a handful of gravel and some pritt stick and stuck them onto some card!
Have you thought about a long pole with a bell on it, and a piece of string so you can stop it ringing. (or a cycling bell and a string on the trigger)
You can move the bell to the next hold and let go of the string (or pull the string if you use a bike bell) so the bell will sound. He'll be able to gauge where the hold is by where the bell is. Just like they do with blind football.
I'd ask him what works for him, whether he has any ideas and I'd see if you can share the routefinding time with your other clients assuming you're in a group. It gets everyone thinking about how to climb which is good for them as well as the guy who needs holds identifying (presumably there are several problems per panel so simply feeling for them is not an option).
Rare earth magnets taped to bits of wool would make for a quick, safe, re-useable way of marking the way to the next hand hold if he likes that idea but it's not so good for the feet.
Presumably he's going to need a spotter to help with awkward landings, landing safely without depth perception is not easy. There's also the day to day stuff like not climbing over people or walking under them that will be a challenge. In that case a bit of teamwork on the route finding is probably still the best approach.
Have you tried the BMC, CWA and the RNIB to see if they can point you toward anything or anyone?
Get in touch with Carey at the BMC who is secretary of the BMC Equity Steering Group. There's been a lot of work on paraclimbing at the BMC recently including working with the blind.
Obviously a really inspirational guy.
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