/ Please recommend some easy routes in South Wales (Llandysul)?
I have a wedding to go to in Llandysul on Saturday and have conviced the missus to go for a climb on Sunday, either locally to Landysul, or on the way back through to Bristol.
So can anyone recommend a nice area for easy access single pitch climbs - or even better, multi-pitch with big ledges - near to Llandysul, or on the way back through South Wales really?
I'll likely only get one multi-pitch or a couple of single pitches done so needn't be the biggest venue in the World, but would like to do good quality routes, as it'll be a first visit.
Grade-wise I think about hard severe max or maybe easier for multi-pitch (she's nervous). No abseil entry please.
I've never climbed on The Gower, would that fit the bill? Or would I be better off in The Wye Valley etc...?
Anyone want to plug some low-grade South Wales classics?
I would look at a guidebook, but I don't have one and can't really buy one for a half-day's climbing.
Would suggest the Gower over the Wye for easier stuff though I'm not particularly familiar with the venues there. A couple that I have been to could be a bit intimidating for a nervous second. The Gower has the advantage of some nice climbs straight off the beach at places like Caswel and Three cliffs.
Not sure what the tides are like but here's some Gower options:
Three Cliffs Bay - Mod-VS - Tidal
Boiler Slab - Diff-HVS/E1 - Non-tidal
Lewes Castle - VS-HVS (with one Sev warm up) - Non-tidal
If you want to try the valleys then there's loads of topos on the wiki:
"nice climbs straight off the beach at places like Caswel and Three cliffs."
Brilliant thanks Spearing05, that's just to sort of thing she likes. I'll have a look at the wiki.
Oh and can you suggest a grade range and I'll suggest some routes!
Great, thanks a lot Mattrm. Slabs she can manage.
Cheers for the link too.
> Oh and can you suggest a grade range and I'll suggest some routes!
From diff to hard-severe I think really Matt. She can manage harder, but I think she'll struggle and it'll be less enjoyable for her. Slabs are good.
The Ceredigion sea cliffs, described in the new Pembroke North guide, are by far the nearest decent climbing to Llandysul and would meet all your requirements other than the fact that all access is by abseil.
On that basis, the Gower it probably is then, especially as the tides are good, with LW at mid afternoon on Sunday.
Great thanks Dave.
I like the Gower so would be keen to climb there anyway, plus there's the wiki to help.
Thanks all for the help.
> From diff to hard-severe I think really Matt. She can manage harder, but I think she'll struggle and it'll be less enjoyable for her. Slabs are good.
In that case (and based on what Dave says about the tide), definitely Three Cliffs Bay. There are two really good VS, that are well worth doing, Arch Slab and Scavenger. Neither are particulary hard for the grade, so if she's done some of the other HSes there, then I'm sure she'll be fine. Scavenger is (I find) quite juggy for a slab. Also it's a very nice area. Short walk in. Great beach.
It is a little bit of a walk to get there (20-25mins) but very scenic on the way, SWMC topo here:
If you do go to 3 Cliffs then take a wander across the beach to Great Tor for a classic 3 pitch V Diff, contender for the best easy route on Gower and good belay ledges.
I was just about to say exactly the same.
Its an excellent route that fits the requirements perfectly.
Thanks guys, great stuff.
East Ridge it is I reckon :)
Elsewhere on the site
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
From a personal point of view, photographing the night sky is one of the most difficult, frustrating yet ultimately rewarding... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
The Grivel A&D Ascender & Descender is brand new for Autumn 2014 and incorporates a revolutionary and innovative patented... Read more
This survey is being conducted by the Outdoor Industries Association in order to find out more about how and why people... Read more