/ Please recommend some easy routes in South Wales (Llandysul)?

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Tom Last - on 23 May 2013

Hi.

I have a wedding to go to in Llandysul on Saturday and have conviced the missus to go for a climb on Sunday, either locally to Landysul, or on the way back through to Bristol.

So can anyone recommend a nice area for easy access single pitch climbs - or even better, multi-pitch with big ledges - near to Llandysul, or on the way back through South Wales really?

I'll likely only get one multi-pitch or a couple of single pitches done so needn't be the biggest venue in the World, but would like to do good quality routes, as it'll be a first visit.

Grade-wise I think about hard severe max or maybe easier for multi-pitch (she's nervous). No abseil entry please.

I've never climbed on The Gower, would that fit the bill? Or would I be better off in The Wye Valley etc...?

Cheers all,
Tom
Tom Last - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Southern Man:

Anyone want to plug some low-grade South Wales classics?

I would look at a guidebook, but I don't have one and can't really buy one for a half-day's climbing.

Cheers!
spearing05 - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Southern Man: SWMC wiki page is good for dealing with a lack of a guide book. Not the most descriptive in the world but has more info than the data bases on here.

Would suggest the Gower over the Wye for easier stuff though I'm not particularly familiar with the venues there. A couple that I have been to could be a bit intimidating for a nervous second. The Gower has the advantage of some nice climbs straight off the beach at places like Caswel and Three cliffs.
mattrm - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Southern Man:

Not sure what the tides are like but here's some Gower options:

Three Cliffs Bay - Mod-VS - Tidal
Boiler Slab - Diff-HVS/E1 - Non-tidal
Lewes Castle - VS-HVS (with one Sev warm up) - Non-tidal

If you want to try the valleys then there's loads of topos on the wiki:

http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Best_For..
Tom Last - on 23 May 2013
In reply to spearing05:

"nice climbs straight off the beach at places like Caswel and Three cliffs."

Brilliant thanks Spearing05, that's just to sort of thing she likes. I'll have a look at the wiki.

Ta :)
mattrm - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Southern Man:

Oh and can you suggest a grade range and I'll suggest some routes!
Tom Last - on 23 May 2013
In reply to mattrm:

Great, thanks a lot Mattrm. Slabs she can manage.

Cheers for the link too.
Tom Last - on 23 May 2013
In reply to mattrm:
> (In reply to Southern Man)
>
> Oh and can you suggest a grade range and I'll suggest some routes!

From diff to hard-severe I think really Matt. She can manage harder, but I think she'll struggle and it'll be less enjoyable for her. Slabs are good.
Dave Williams - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Southern Man:

The Ceredigion sea cliffs, described in the new Pembroke North guide, are by far the nearest decent climbing to Llandysul and would meet all your requirements other than the fact that all access is by abseil.

On that basis, the Gower it probably is then, especially as the tides are good, with LW at mid afternoon on Sunday.

HTH

Dave
Tom Last - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Dave Williams:

Great thanks Dave.

I like the Gower so would be keen to climb there anyway, plus there's the wiki to help.

Thanks all for the help.
Tom
mattrm - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to mattrm)
> [...]
>
> From diff to hard-severe I think really Matt. She can manage harder, but I think she'll struggle and it'll be less enjoyable for her. Slabs are good.

In that case (and based on what Dave says about the tide), definitely Three Cliffs Bay. There are two really good VS, that are well worth doing, Arch Slab and Scavenger. Neither are particulary hard for the grade, so if she's done some of the other HSes there, then I'm sure she'll be fine. Scavenger is (I find) quite juggy for a slab. Also it's a very nice area. Short walk in. Great beach.

The Ivanator - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Southern Man: If tides mean Three Clifffs is out then Boiler Slab is a good non-tidal alternative on Gower. Selection of good single pitch routes from Diff to Low E grades and as the name suggests, largely slab climbing (the harder lines tackle a roof at 3/4 height).
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1031
It is a little bit of a walk to get there (20-25mins) but very scenic on the way, SWMC topo here:
http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Boiler_Slab
The Ivanator - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Southern Man: Just read the thread more carefully and see the tides for Three Cliffs look favourable, and that Boiler Slab has already been suggested as a non tidal alternative, anyway the link to the topo might be some use.
If you do go to 3 Cliffs then take a wander across the beach to Great Tor for a classic 3 pitch V Diff, contender for the best easy route on Gower and good belay ledges.
Enjoy!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33411
RANGITOTO on 23 May 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

I was just about to say exactly the same.

Its an excellent route that fits the requirements perfectly.
Tom Last - on 23 May 2013
In reply to Southern Man:

Thanks guys, great stuff.

East Ridge it is I reckon :)
The Ivanator - on 27 May 2013
In reply to Southern Man: Did you get your climb in? Hope the weather/tides/wedding recovery all obliged!

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