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Topic - Training areas at walls

Ramblin dave - on 23 May 2013
So on the (now pulled?) thread about what you'd want from the ultimate bouldering wall, there were quite a few mentions of training areas, circuit walls, moon boards, system walls, campus boards etc, and I think this is something that gets suggested in that sort of discussion.

But this got me wondering... how much do training areas at walls actually get used? Maybe it's because I've always lived in flat places where no-one that committed to climbing would stay for long, but I've almost never seen any of the pure training equipment at a wall getting used properly.

You sometimes get a newbie showing off for their mates on the campus board, but never anyone who seems to be doing a properly coordinated workout on it. Meanwhile the system wall, if there is one, mainly serves as a convenient place where you can sit around when the wall's busy without worrying about getting in anyone's way, presumably because by the time people are good enough and committed enough to know what a system wall is for, identify the weaknesses they need to train on it and then build that sort of training into their routine, they've probably got one set up in their garage / basement / attic anyway. And I guess a similar thing applies on a less committed level with fingerboards - again, I've seen people do the odd pullup on one, but never anyone going to the wall to do an organized half hour fingerboard workout.

Is this a general pattern - that training gear is something that we like to feel that we COULD use, but never quite get around to? Sort of like the climbing wall equivalent of the exercise bike in the attic? Or would I find if I lived in Sheffield or Leeds or somewhere a bit more hard-climber-friendly that I could jump onto any boulder problems I wanted but have to queue for the system board?

(Also, on a more gormless note, what actually is a circuits wall?)
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