UKC

I was hanging from my fingerboard the other day and got thinking about whether it can be used for anything other than pure strength. I know that it's not the ideal tool (as about 80% of replies to this thread will probably point out), but I'm more interested in the principle/whether anybody else has thought about this.

So a normal training session on a fingerboard consists mostly of repeaters: 6 x 7s on/3s off or similar, which are great for increasing contact strength if used properly.

If you were to extend this to, say 5s on/5s off on easier holds for a longer period (say 3-5 minutes), would this start to target some kind of power endurance? What about if you do something similar but over a period of 10 minutes or longer? Targeting endurance? Of course, it would be boring as hell, and getting to a wall would be much more effective, but could it work?

In reply to Nick Russell:

Repeaters are halfway to power endurance anyway.

If you put your feet on a chair behind the board (or my fingerboard mount has some holds at the bottom for feet) you can do aerocap or other stuff that raises a pump by walking your hands round and round. Requires a high boredom threshold. Works though.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Absolutely. When I just have a pull up bar I openhand it and do a session like this:

7/3 repeaters but 3min long sets

3min rest

5 sets.

Definitely get completely pumped over about 30 minutes. This would work well on good holds on the fingerboard. You improve fast doing something like this as well.

In reply to Nick Russell: I specifically trained for an 80m traverse by doing double handed hang on the 30mm deep slot on my crusher holds board 10secs on 10secs off for 15 minutes. Boring as hell but simulated the endurance type perfectly, and I did the route 'cause of it. Whether it would do you much good if you did it regularily for elbows and shoulders is another thing..

Thanks for some good input. It's always good to know how to maximise my training resources