/ UKC Fit Club Week 323
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (322) thread:
Daniel Heath - Good luck in the comp
Sankey - How did you do on the lime get another 7a?
IainRUK - Great mileage as ever
mbh - good luck on the 3000
florence58 - Welcome whats your goal from training? rest your fingers if they are not feeling good.
Exile - did the project at scout scar go?
Kevster - Good for you having a rest week everyone needs one every 3 months now make up for it!
Biscuit - well now you know where you are time to put more effort into the triathlon training
Stevemarkperry - Better week this week?
NMN - Anything good at stanage done
Northern clamberer - Sunday sounds so much fun.
AJM - Welcome back! That 7c gives you a reason to go back to ceuse
Ali - not been up in a while, but SS normally is dry seeps in a morning and drys back even in the worse conditions from my visits
Si dH - awesome stanage tick list! shame about the E3 next one will got
maria85 - nice session at trollers. the middle of jim grin is straight forward but pumpy the first move is okay once you have done it a few times. Go back to it some time supposed to be the best 7a in yorkshire but not the easiest by a long way.
Mattrm - did you achieve your weeks targets.
Porkpiegirl - Another very heavy week of training! do you ever worry you are over training?
Needkraken - well done at the depot
ally smith- nice on the LF progression
deacondeacon - welcome back nice tick list after your return
Nomics4sale - how many sessions on stickey whicket now? time to move bolt to bolt? well done on cemetary gates but you should of tried left wall!
Luke Owens - nice day at LPT. I tried to onsight broadwalk but fell on the last move. Was gutted not got back on it.
jimmykay - get your project done?
useful - nice goals looks a busy week. good effort the only way to improve trad is to do trad!
steve john B - good luck with the marathon
leon - nice week putting the effort in
sorry did not post last week apparently you get banned if you post from India.
If people still want to do the fit club meet 14-16 june in yorkshire say I am keen
Quick post on the go, will do full post tomorrow night.
I am keen as long as weather ok, might be bringing a friend.
M: meeting all day followed by curry and beer
T: Meetings followed by curry and beer
W: 6am flight mcdonalds for breakfast at 5am
Meeting at one side of bangalore
Meeting at the other side of bangalore
Curry and beer watching IPL
T Meetings and flight
Sleep in a chair in bangalore departures
F: Two flights
Made a roast dinner
Went to pub drank beer
S: Holmfirth. Repeated stuff
Went for a curry
S: Pule hill. Lead HS onsight soloed a HVD in boots
So a horrific week for me with work in india and entertaining a friend visiting from germany.
Will make up for it next week.
STG - boulder more 6a's , get more confident outdoors, keep the psyche, second whatever my friends climb & lead every session I can
MTG - 6b sport, lead S by choice, get psyche to lead routes I chose
LTG - to feel I can push myself on lead, be stronger, find routes I really want to do
M/T: rehearsals, get back late, should've done a bit of core work but bed looks so comfy when I get back
W: Went to standing stones with uni club, spent most of the time helping people on routes so only got in one second, but found myself utttering the phrase 'I'm going back to lead that'...definately a first
T: Went to a friends for dinner, ended up doing a drunken core session which was hard but hilarious
F: food and drinking (sound familiar?)
S: warm session at holmfirth, mostly repeated stuff but did a new traverse, still can't get my 6a project and fell in a painful manner which ended my session
S: headed up to pule, only got a few routes done but led my first severe! Was terrified and jibbered a lot, but it was good, I was thinking of my feet and I managed it!
So glad I got in the lead, hadn't felt amazingly secure on either second I did so I'm proud of myself for actually doing it!
Next week...climb more eat/drink less
Also I might be up for a day of fit club meet, can't do the whole weekend but it would be good to put some faces to names
Yes a better week this week and feeling much better for it, too. Enjoyed training on the bike this week and psyched after watching the XC World Cup today (go Nino!) and got some nice bouldering sessions in, too. Still on the look out for regular partners to get out on the trad with so struggling a bit there.
Gain ML(S) -- I'm filling up my logbook ready for training at the end of 2013, so get in touch if you want to get out!
Consolidate seconding experience (trad) including some mountain multi-pitch.
Lead 20 mountain multi-pitch of at least VS 4c by end of 2014.
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!).
Learn to ski.
If anyone is interested in how I beat, and still working with, my fear of heights and falling, I have written quite a lot about it on my blog. This post pretty much sums it up: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/fear-of-heights-conquered/ and this one adds to it: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/my-pledge/
M: 2x12 Push Ups
T: Churnet bouldering up to 6B+/6C. Slow start but good session once warmed up.
F: 12km MTB XC ride
S: Churnet bouldering up to 6A+ (flash) // 12km MTB XC ride // 3mile walk
S: Churnet bouldering (easy session, sore skin)
M-4x4 on crimpy 7a circuit. Noticing being a bit lighter making a huge difference. Found it almost too easy, but a great session and got a real sweat on.
W-Sport near Matlock. Onsighted classic 7a "supercrack" and a 7b. Nice to start consolidating my european grade in the UK :P
Tried a 7c 3 times and confident I'll get it next time.
F-Power session. Felt great, and also got PBs on the circuit board - 3/4 of a 7c and 3/4 of an 8a circuit.
S-Last session before the RAF champs on Wed. Last minute power, thinking I have enough endurance now.
Now to rest up and apply ClimbOn continuously :)
The diet is ok but I had a day of weakness on Thursday which set me back a week or so. I've picked myself up and am 64kg today.
Can't do 14-16 I'm afraid but should be up there a bit once I finish trad roadtripping.
Not a bad week this week.
Wednesday - afternoon Wintours raid. My friend bailed on his lead so I got to lead both of the hard E2 pitches on Kangaroo Wall (E2 5c, 6a,5a,5b, classic). All free, my feet popped off the infamously slippy footholds on the crux but it was just as my hand hit a good hold so i held it all together and ploughed on upwards. A nice evenings work! Eyes on the GO Wall E3s now :)
Thursday - Cheddar. Repeat of Its a Kind of Magic (7a+) as a warmup putting clips in. Good stuff. Got on Right Hand Man. Swapped the order of a hand and foot move and increased the % of the crux massively! Felt stronger on at least one other section too. Good stuff. Linked most of the crux a couple of times, which is good. However I've forgotten 2 crucial bits which I need to sort out again, moving out of the groove and the very top. Had sequences for this before but just can't remember them. Should have written it down. Elbow sore.
Friday - Avon. Attempted stupidly to warm up on some stupid bouldery micro route, elbow sore. Idiot! Then did Us pitch 1 (E2 5b) which was nice, elbow very sore. After a lengthy wait seconded Rancho (E3). Elbow rehab when I got home.
Saturday - elbow rehab
Sunday - Wintours, chilled and lazy day. Led Wurlitzer, E1. Elbow rehab.
Off trad roadtripping the next fortnight, psyched for more E2/E3s (whisper it, E4 attempt?). N idea where yet. If I do my rehab whilst I'm there it should be just the break my elbow needs. Be good to get back on RHM once elbow is sorted. Felt progress on thurs.
m: 9 mile road run, tired after flight
t: 9 mile run with 5 miles at 6:30 pace and 2 at 6:00 pace
w: 12.8 mile road run felt very tired.
t: am: 7 mile trail run. pm: 7 miles with 3 x 1k efforts at 5:00 pace and 3 x 200m sprints.
f: 4 mile trail run
f: Rennsteiglauf trail marathon.. well 26.6 miles, 8th in 2:51, 700m ascent. Happy with the run
s: steady 6.5 mile recovery run
Yep, got it this week!
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
Concentrating on 7a+ / some last minute fast weight loss at moment.
T: 2hrs climbing. Warmed up on Ivy League, (7a+, Scout Scar,) move to move, then pulled the rope and led it. Nearly cocked up the crux - ended up reversing it and doing it again. Mate led it clean too. A good night all in all.
W: Morning. 40min road run. Evening. 40min road run.
F: Evening. 45min traversing on 7a traverse - good fingery session.
S: Drive to Scotland. 30min MTB
S: 50min MTB
Chuffed with Ivy League, but learnt a few things. Given I basically did the crux twice I think I've got it in me to RP 7b, just need to get my RP tactics a bit more sorted. Also didn't realise until after I'd done it how much pressure I was putting myself under to get it done - felt like a weight lifted off my shoulders when it went. Is this normal? If it is I think some trad onsighting is called for for a while - just going climbing!
There is definitely a totally different mental side to redpointing. Nick wrote a detailed blog about the pressure of long term redpointing. If he is lurking maybe he will post a link.
But yes, there comes a point where you know you can do it and then there's that rratcheting pressure of why you haven't done it this time or that time.
STG: Get outside as much as possible (fat chance). Have the opportunity to lead as many VDiffs etc as I can find. OS 5+ outside without fear!
MTG: OS 6a. Get a solid load of trad under the belt. Lose two stone.
New MTG - second the Old Man of Hoy, perhaps before I leave here.... I'd quite like to kayak in, climb up and kayak home again. Ha ha ha.
LTG: OS 6b. Lead HVS. Second some totally awesome multipitch.
Monday: Rest - Visiting friend suggested food and beer. Haven't really seen her in 6 years...
Tuesday: Unexpectedly had to apply for a PhD very, very, very fast!
Wednesday: Working late, invited round to friend's for pizza
Thursday: Morning run. 3.36 miles, 36 mins. Working late. More app stuff to do.
Friday: Working away so half a day in the field (literally in a field). Too much food. Some beer.
Saturday: Working away, full day in the field. Too much beer.
Sunday: Hung over in the field.....
So generally rubbish all round. Have a day of TOIL tomorrow as I am shattered after the weekend so hope to do something then and also to get along to the club on Tuesday. But we'll see.
Food diary maintained, and now recording weight each day. Quite a good motivational tool/depressing enough to dissuade me from eating!
Another shocker with respect to climbing, work has been off the scale and gf based weekend.
Went for a jog, did some pull ups. Think I'm closer to holding a lock off, so maybe getting stronger. Just as well, given all the food and meals out.
So psyched for outside. Just have to wait another 2 week's. That'll be 4 weeks without clikbibg, longest break for years.
Tremadog - e3/4 recomendations welcome.
I had a great week...
Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Dinbren - Did my F7b project! "Walking With Barrance". Crushed it, felt awesome and went pretty easily in the end. Took 3 evening sessions. moving onto the F7b+ "I Punched Judy First" next, psyched!
Here's a video of me on the route:
Also did some core:
30 Crunches with legs up
15 Side rises each side
20 Aqua Man's
Front Plank with alternate leg raises for 1 minute
Star Side Plank both sides for 1 minute each
30 Glute Bridges
30 Aqua Man's
30 Glute Bridges
Dish for 1 minute
30 Aqua Man's
30 Glute Bridges
Dish for 1 minute
50 Body Weight Squats
Hip Flexor Stretching
Wednesday - Rest
Thursday - Went up to Pinfold (Half an hour walk in) after work as my mate has a project he wants to do. Go to the crag. Heavens opened with hail stone... Bailed to Ty Newedd a sheltered steep limestone crag near the A55. Didn't start climbing until 7pm.
Retro-flashed a F6b+ "Chill Out" to warm up then on-sighted a really long steep F6c "Chilly Tea". Tried to flash a F7a and fell. Got straight back on and climbed to the chain...!? Lowered and didn't rest and went for it again fell again to tired. Had limited time so had to leave one to come back for.
Friday - Deadhangs:
35's and 20's alternate hands - 5 secs x 3
Open hand 3 finger 30mm pockets - 5 secs x 3
Middle 2 - 5 secs x 3
Half crimp 20mm edge - 5 secs x 3
3 x (1:30 minute on 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 5 minutes)
30 Crunches with legs up
15 Side rises each side
20 Aqua Man's
Front Plank with alternate leg raises for 1 minute
Star Side Plank both sides for 1 minute each
30 Glute Bridges
30 Aqua Man's
30 Glute Bridges
Dish for 1 minute
30 Aqua Man's
30 Glute Bridges
Dish for 1 minute
50 Body Weight Squats
Saturday - Did loads of hanging leg raises and stretching
Sunday - Craig Arthur - Massive 30 meter limestone crag in the Eglwyseg. Always deserted, never a soul at the crag...
Went for the on-sight on a 30 meter steep F6c+ "Delta Force". Fell between the last clip and the chains!! Very hard to read at the top sequence. It gets steep and fingery at the end so no way to reverse the moves.
Got it easily on redpoint great route!
Got on the classic 3 star F7a+ "These Foolish Things" it's been a year since I was on it and I'd completely forgot the sequence. Still felt hard, took ages on it figuring it out on the lead on the way up (Slack redpoint tactics) The moves are not to bad but the final 2 meters is steep and damn hard. Without this section it would probably only be F6b+ for the first 28 meters!
Got a new improved sequence for the crux so should go next time. Both my mate and I took an hour and half on it so had no time to rest and redpoint.
Had a quick final burn trying to retro-flash a F6c+ fell at the crux then climbed to the top. Felt hard in the heat.
Did some more stretching.
I'm coming to the end of a 2 month endurance focused cycle and looking to do a strength cycle for maybe a month. Does anyone have any advice/experience with maintaining my route fitness/endurance while focusing more on strength? Would hate to lose the gains I've got over the last 2 months.
Congrats on the 7b!
I can't offer much advice on strength while maintaining endurance because I've just trained endurance pretty much for a whole year and I'm still improving without much strength training. I do a couple of weeks of power or campusing before a trip or a comp but I consider that temporary.
I guess one endurance session a week is probably necessary to keep your enduro gains.
Fingerlicker E4 if you're psyched ;)
Assuming you'll still be doing routes outdoors that should be maintenance enough?
Cheers Dan! I'm tempted to just carry on with the endruance training as Sport climbing is my main thing.
But... my dilemma is my regular climbing partners boulder a lot harder than I am and seem to be able to get up the same routes (and harder) without any focused endruance training. Obviously being carried by their strength. I'm wondering wether getting stronger will actually help...
I can boulder up to V6 and I know this should get me to about 7c but a friend of mine has hit 7c with bouldering strength/power alone.
I guess I'm never sure if i'm training "enough" as friends/partners make bigger improvements with seemingly less effort.
Just trying to figure out the best approach to improving really...
Will still be doing routes outdoors atleast twice a week.
Climbing is a personal sport so I don't think it helps to compare too closely to how others reach a certain goal.
A coach told me that to maintain power whilst trainig endurance you should throw in a bouldering session every 1-2 weeks. That's what I did along with trying routes harder than I could currently climb and I've maintained pretty much exactly the same power but have improved endurance.
It's been mentioned previously that there are 7cs which are extended boulder problems (so not much stamina required, just power and PE) and there are 7cs with nothing harder than a v3, but that v3 comes after 20m of climbing.
So if you want to do a 7c, get on some and find out what it is that's stopping you currently from being able to do it. If you can do all the moves and link sections then just throwing redpoint attempts at it will get you the fitness and refinement needed to climb it.
Well done on the 7b!
In reply to Luke Owens:
I am probably the same as you then, albeit perhaps more extreme (boulder about the same, aiming slightly higher on sport). In the summer I end to assume that outdoor routes will take care of all my endurance needs and focus indoors on strength on the grounds that its not something you work as much outdoors (unless you're trying threshold bouldering on a rope of course by starting serious projects!) and it means you're hitting all bases. Also factor in strength being generally slower to improve and being the longer-term limiting factor and therefore being something you always can benefit from keep ticking over on.
Think of it as your regular partners under-performing rather than putting less work in for the same grades - if they are proper boulderers by comparison and only doing the same sport grades as you it means they could be doing so much more if they put the time in to really apple that extra strength to sport. It all depends on what your weakness is. If you're monstrously over strong for the grades you climb then endurance training will most likely get you the quickest wins, if the cruxes on routes are actually really close to your limit then maybe you want to boulder more.
Cheers guys, that's some good advice. I guess I should taylor what i'm doing to what I want to achieve. 7c would be a great milestone for me and i'm pretty sure i'm strong enough for it.
I'd rather have great endurance than being stronger right now, so I think i'll benefit most from the continued endruance training.
Good effort on the 7a+!
I get the "weight lifted" feeling when I complete a project. I get so focused on them that I don't realise how much pressure i'm putting on myself. Redpoint stress!
Sometimes I have to remind myself to calm down between attempts especially when i'm really close to the send...
I've had three decent indoor bouldering sessions, and I've noticed massive improvement since the first one which I think is a sign that I was operating well below max power before. Hardest ticks have been V6 flashes and V7 after work. Also managed to complete one a half circuits on the 7b on the circuit board at MCC - power endurance = good.
I've also had a few days outside which have been very nice, the first in a long time!
The first was half a day at the Cheedale cornice, warmed up on a 7a that I'd done previously, then I wanted to try an 8a. Got on Ouijaboard, only to realise it's the living end of technical limestone climbing! There was not a single horizontal hold on the entire route and most of the moves revolved around snatching between upside down gastons - not my thing. Was going to give it up completely but Seb Grieve tried it and gave me some beta so I gave it another go with him belaying, I think the pressure helped and I actually made a decent link, but I just couldn't work out a way for me to do the crux so I gave it away. Powerplant looks good though, might be a better candidate.
The next trip out was to Curbar, mostly bouldering. Warmed up doing some easy highballs then ticked the two Curbar classics, Gorilla Warfare and Trackside, both 7A, in the space of about half an hour which was nice. I didn't have beta on either so they each took four goes, Gorilla was great, really fun and even a little pumpy. Trackside was just frustrating because the moment I got the right beta to get my feet high enough to reach the dish on the arete, the rest was piss, so I feel like I should've flashed it... Next did some scary highball/solo E2 called Kayak, then had a go at a mega E4 called Usurper. It's an awesome route but absolutely nails! I ended up dogging it feeling, a little dejected, but I was cheered up when the guidebook said it regularly repelled onsight attempts for E8/9 leaders. Abbed for the gear then went home - a good day despite the failure.
Next was a day at High Tor. I warmed up doing Debauchery, then Perseus, which I thought was a brilliant route in the same league as Darius, but not quite so polished. I then got on Tales which you made have read about me whinging about in last weeks post - I grabbed the thread! Bad Jake. Really looking forward to going back with my head in gear to crush it though.
Last was a day at Hobby yesterday, really nice. Warmed up bouldering about the bottom of routes, then did four sets of there-and-backs on the back wall traverse. I think the there-and-back is worth about Fr7b so I'm pretty pleased with the session. Also did a couple of new eliminates that aren't it the guide, one of which felt much harder than Trackside so I'm going to give it 7A, it was a really cool problem. I also cycled to and from the crag, which I think was good for me as I'm starting to gain a bit of what I call 'Exam Weight' - weight gained from stress-eating and not enough time to exercise!
So it's been an up and down couple of weeks but I'd say overall it's been pretty good considering I'm in the middle of exams, looking forward to them finishing next week!
After that I've got a weeks holiday, then three weeks back at college which I'm hoping will involve very little work - just giving us time to figure out what we want to continue at A2. Then after that it's summer = crushing time!!!!
(Posting on the tablet, so will be brief)
M: Nothing, exhausted from travelling.
T: Craig y Forwyn, Llangollen: Craig led, I seconded, then I led, he seconded
Shelfway S 4a
Coltsfoot Corner HS 4b
W: Felt I still had more in the bag this week so convinced Jayne to second me at the Great Orme.
***MY FIRST E1 5b LEAD!!! Precious Metal at Upper Pen Trwyn, led clean. Very pleased especially as the log book says it used to be an easy E2! I wonder what's changed?
F: weight 78.3kg 16.0% (used the "keep hydrated" technique!) Up but lean, happy there.
Sa: Took 7yo Lizzie to scramble up Moel Siabod. Roped up, she kept asking to do harder climbs until I'm certain that we did some short Moderate pitches. She loved it, so proud of her! Fun daddy daughter time.
Su: At Benllech beach with Steve's family, popped to do a few on Craig Dwlban, mainly vertical overhanging stuff:
Poison Ivy 6a Lead on sight
Central Reservation 6b Lead DNF: really thin crux, didn't feel like falling or pulling a finger today so let Steve finish it! Consensus was that the top traverse was horrid.
Hard Shoulder 6a+ Lead on sight but a bit run out! Holds are where you expect them though. Worth its star.
So happy with trad progress this week! Sport was just for fun :)
Good effort on the E1 buddy!
Goals: Climb some brilliant routes in the 7c-8a grade range. (Subculture, the ashes, dominatrix, biological need etc)
Wed: indoor bouldering. First time climbing after 2 weeks off, predictably weak and had DOMS for 3 days afterwards.
Sat: Kilnsey. Still feeling weak from time off but got on subculture. Did all the moves and linked some sections. Completely different style to what I've been on recently at Malham but keen to put some time into it as it's got some really nice moves on it. Power faded embarrassingly quick but hopefully it won't take too long to get back up to previous level.
STG: No top roping unless I cannot (because I keep falling) bolt to bolt.
MTG: 2*E2s(done), 1*6c(done) & 2*7a by end of May.
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF, using core to reduce strain on fingers (maybe), not search for the best sequence when redpointing.
Thu: Arc. Steep wall lock-offs. Repeaters
Sun: Black Crag (7 e points).
Poor training week due to illnes & going away.
Went to Black Crag with the wife for the first time on Sunday. Warmed-up on a HVS that my wife hated so then took her up Glass Slipper (she likes slabs), she liked it but we both agreed it felt too straightfoward for all the stars. I then saw Need Arete, e3 in the Langdale guide & gave it a go. I was really surprised at how easy I found it, like so easy it felt like a lemon squeeze e2. We finished with Yellow Fever, what an amazing route!!! The climbing was interesting all the way, but not too hard. I found the gear fiddly & a bit so so. The combination of constantly interesting moves & challenging gear placements really added-up to a great climbing experience for me. When I got home I checked the log book & it looks like a fair few people agree with me on Needle Arete. Still, beggers cannot be choosers so I am taking the tick. I just need to get another e3 in before a new Langdale guide is published that takes my e3 tick away from me ;)
So it looks like I'm in Snowdonia up to and including this Saturday.
Sunday I've got to go to London, long story.
The week after obviously the weather is a lottery but if it's nice we will likely aim for the lakes until Thurs 6th.
If we do end up in the Lakes then on Friday 7th my partner will have gone home so I could be very tempted by a day at Kilnsey, or Malham or Lakes trad, if any FC folk are around.
M- Nothing. (Good start)
T- Bouldering session down the wall. Did my red circuit (50moves) 3 times - but I was feeling pretty shattered and didn't want to go overboard.
W- BRAT session (running). First training session in about 3 months. Still managed to keep up with the fastest runners there right up until the last 5minutes where there was a bit of confusion with the circuits.
F- 5-a-side football for 90mins.
S- KFC for lunch then arrived at the bowderstone. Got Impropa 3rd go - after working out the first move. Picnic Direct first go (after remembering the first move?) and Ears of Perception 2nd go. Repeated the latter for the camera. Moved onto the Honister boulders and O/Sed the 7a and 6c+ before heading to Keswick for a curry.
S- Fry up in Keswick followed by a drive to St Bees. Did Headbanger and a couple of other 7a's and 6c+'s mainly flash/ O/S. Got a little underwhelmed by the place so sacked it off by 13:30. Drove back to Keswick and had a hot chicken and stuffing sandwich before heading the Carrock Fell. Really good place. Got shut down on Roof route before ticking Ground Force and The Nose and some other 7a. Really quite sharp on the old skin in that temp! Stopped at the pub for a 'famous' pie and chips.
M- Fry-up in Keswick. Pissing it down so we headed to Crag-y-Longridge. Managed to fire off Big Marine and Fertile Delta sit start (both second go) before it started to piss it down. Went to a cafe for more beans and egg on toast. And Lemon cake.
Not a bad bouldering trip first for around 3months as I've been focused on sport, which is what I'm mainly going to be sticking to. Going to head to Anstey's later in the week as the weather looks good.
Aaaand she's back. On form, feeling much better than I have in months :)
New meds are like the wonder drug. Ive not felt so "normal" in ages.
Ive kept the weight off too, which is nice.
Sorry for going AWOL and not starting the thread like I said I would. I needed to take a break from here and get well again.
Long(ish) term goal: to lead 7a. Indoors or out, redpoint or onsight (in my dreams) I dont really care. Just something that requires some effort and skill.
Monday: Nothing (I dont think... to be fair I cant remember)
Tuesday- Friday: 28 miles a day hard riding. Really going for it and lots of out of saddle sprints, making the most of a dull commute.
Saturday: Rest day; did a small walk but that was about it. Followed by curry and mucho wine.
Thursday: Rode to the swimming pool and did half an hour core and 1hr hard swim. He was in sadistic mode that evening. 250m sprints x 4? With pull buoys? Sicko. ;)
Sunday: 7 mile run. Ive been taking advice from my ex (much as I hate to admit that) and trying to run on my toes rather than heel striking because after most runs now I've ended up with a very sore hip and knee. It worked wonders! It felt quite alien at first but I quickly got used to it. My calves were sore today, which was a good job (not) because....
Today (Monday): 10.5 mile fell run around Edale Horseshoe. We had a fab morning and ran at the same pace all the way round (except I am quicker uphill and he is faster downhill, but hey ho). Twisted my ankle twice but not badly, lost my trainer twice in the peat bogs, but overall I loved it. I could seriously get into this trail running malarky and it was the best way to make the most the Bank Holiday sunshine imo. Im tired and sore now.
I wont be able to get as much done this week. Having a 48 hr EEG from Wednesday so getting sweaty is out of the question.
Oh well, got a couple of jigsaws and a friend with dogs and wine coming over. Not all bad!
Hope everybody cracks some goals and has a productive week. H
Sorry, also missed posting last week so a 2 week update, unlike you no good excuse though.
Complete 7b+ pyramid - done! Now if I can just get Road Rage finished, that would be my 7c pyramid too...
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Castle. Good boulder.
Wedns - Biscuit Factory. Most of the blue circuit (V2-3) and a handful of harder problems including a (very) soft yellow (V6-8! *ahem*)
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Portland, Cheyne Cliff. Road Rage (7b+). Nice day but very unproductive. I'm not sure if I'm lacking a bit of fitness or whether it's some kind of mental block, but I'm feeling a bit stuck at the moment with it.
Sun - Castle. Short boulder and campus.
Mon - Fingerboard.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Portland, Cuttings. Infernal Din (7b+). Stuck the clips up and then did it first go - woohoo! Thrashed around on Hall of Mirrors until exhausted.
Thurs - Castle, I think, but didn't do much.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Malham. Something Stupid. Feeling totally doable but totally failed to do it! Best redpoint fell off standing up to clip the anchors. Nice to meet PPG and Sarah :-)
Sun - Malham. Something Stupid. A re-run of the previous day but more tired and with sorer skin. Next time maybe...
Good tick Infernal Din, what's holding you back on road rage? Is it a stamina thing? I ask as I know you have RP'd harder/more technical climbs.
HOM is my achilles at the moment. So straight forwards, yet seemingly so fluffable.
Running out of power on the big move up from the sidepull into the final section. Last year pre broken finger I could get through that, so perhaps I've lost some PE and/or I'm psyching myself out worrying about the falls (making the fourth clip is a stretch and the way I've got the clips extended it would be a bad idea to drop it there). Maybe some pressure from feeling I ought to done it already is a factor too...
Heh, I don't find HoM straightforward! :-) Keep the faith with it, you're so close sooner or later everything will go right. Which bit's the problem?
Also forgot to add: After leading Precious Metal (nicely bridgy and balancy) we had a nice top-rope set up for IT (E2 5b) which was a very different style (more overhanging and beasty), but I got to the top fairly doggedly. No idea where the gear should go though! Another project ;)
Decided my goals were a bit arbitrary in saying certain rock-types/locations at certain times of year. I've actually ended up just doing things in whatever order suits my climbing partners, as they are all keen for a smaller range of stuff than me (some for grit, some lime, etc). So I've set new goals as follows. Completely breaking all the rules on STG, MTG, LTG etc...
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 10 E2s, 5 E3s in 2013 (so far 1 E2, 3 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)
Overall that would be 91 E-points...let's chuck in 9 E1s and make it 100 :)
Sport: 2 7b+s to keep my hand in, ideally Brachiation Dance and Space Race but I'm not holding myself to those - too conditions, travel and partner-dependent.
T: Quick sport trip to Willersley after work. One bolt-to-bolt then a clean repeat on Blessed are the Weak (F7a+)
W: Fingerboard session
T: Just 50 chin-ups
S: Dovedale. Seconded Yew Tree Wall E1 5c (done before, really good), led Crazy Horse E3 5c (just to the left of Yew Tree Wall, also really good), seconded The Man with the X-ray Eyes E2 5b, then had a go at Adjudicator Wall (classic hard test-piece E3 5c). I got 3/4 through, past the hardest move (although there is lots of 5c) but then fell off high up. It was a tactical error - I was pretty boxed and had to lock off on a poor pocket with my right to clip a peg, and instead of going back a move for a rest, elected to keep moving through to the next hold once I'd clipped it. As I took my right out the pocket it suddenly died on me and I couldn't even make a fist...had nothing left, so came off. One to chalk up to experience. Such a stunning route though, it deserves more attention. Felt a bit like the E3 version of Darius in some ways.
S: Rest (day out in Oxford with wife & family)
M: Chee Tor. Led Sergyenna E1 5b and Goal of the Month E3 5c. Did extensive cleaning and gardening of both these, plus Hergiani, bits of Absent Friends on ab, and the VS next to GoTM. Also replaced the threads on GotM. All in good nick now. Both routes I led were very good, Sergyanna is a toughie for E1, quite sustained and took me quite a while - it was meant as an easy warm-up. I found GoTM quite intense - steep, fingery and run-out.
Overall a good week, got out on rock three times which is v unusual. Felling like E3 is the grade I want to go out and lead every week now, certainly on lime - I think I have a shout at any now, but the hard ones still have a good chance of spitting me off. Pleased with this :)
Good effort getting on the Cornice, wasn't it gopping?? Walked past today and it was dripping from every part of the crag :(
Trackside is a funny problem. I just can't do it - I've had my left heel on properly and had the best bit of the arete with my right hand more times than I care to remember, but I still can't make the 'udge' to the top. Just once- once, about 2 year ago I got the top with one hand, but it was damp and I came off as I took my other hand off to match. I think everyone else I know has done it now so hopefully I'll never have to try again! If you've got the knack though, it seems that it can feel very easy. My mat has down-climbed in barefoot several times for my amusement...
Week inc bank holiday monday
M - nothing
T - run to work, 6.5 miles
W - nothing (worked very late)
T - nothing (worked late again)
F - 25min morning jog (can't even call it a run). Epic 8hr drive to Malham followed by a broken half nights sleep disturbed by noisy campers and a cow with something on its mind!
S - Something Stupid (7b) - clips in, quick reminder of moves then tried to get a redpoint in before the sun went round. Epic fail as hasn't rested nearly enough and had the shakes. Made tactical decision to retreat until shade came round. Bolt to bolted, then ticked first redpoint after a mega-faff trying to clip the chains. Very pleased to have put that one to bed, even if only because I don't have to pull on those holds again.
S - Space Race (7b+) - couple of goes to work out all the moves. Made a few short links but totally boxed and skin painfull
M - Felt knackered but couldn't leave without trying to climb, so got back on Space Race. Had a warm up go then a decent go making some links on the slab and through to the knee bar.
Very psyched and terrified for Space Race - fortunately I don't have to think about the whole space walk, scary fall potential at the moment! Think I need to focus on endurance a bit more to get through it too.
Thanks to CY for keeping me awake on the drives, being clipstick bunny and not eating all the jelly snakes :o)
Nice one on Something Stupid Ali! I think the hokds on all the routes around that bit of malham are horrible...space race looks awesome though :)
Yeah I think it's just very knacky, when you do get it (I'm sure you'll get round to it) you'll kick yourself for taking so long! Just out of interest, how tall are you? From what I can gather, if you are tall reaching the dish is easy but then getting the heel on and rocking feels really bunched up and hard - I know a very strong tall person who's bouldered much harder but hasn't been able to tick it because he's not that flexible - whereas short people have a hard time reaching the good bit on the arete but when they do the rest of it feels fine. To be honest though I found it very overrated, I was expecting better to be honest! Unlike Gorrila, which was awesome.
Im 5ft11. I cant reach the dish on the arete with the knee bar in, but im very close so its a fairly easy small move to it. It does feel very bunched and I am vey inflexible.
Agree re: gorilla, really good isnt it.
if anything i'm a tiny bit mindful of doing too much actual climbing on rock and not enough climbing training... think i've been to a wall twice in about 6 weeks (maybe longer)
Woo! I thought SS was desperate on my top rope go, very impressed you RPed it :-)
Thanks grubes. Sounds like you had an intense week in India. Hope you like curry! And you are dead right I need to get on the sharp end with Sticky Wicket.
STG (Summer 2013): 7b at Malham or Kilnsey, trad E1s and look at E2.
MTG (Autumn 2013): Something good in Spain, maybe 7a flash or 7b RP.
LTG (2014): lots of E2s, maybe look at E3 and RP 7b+.
Tues: Witches Quarry with Maria85. Lead onsight Witch Bane (HVS 5a) and Crucible (E1 5b). 2nd Broomstick (VS 5a) and Hell Hounds on my Trail (VS 4c).
Wed: 7.5 mile trail run Pendle Hill. 325m ascent.
Fri: Diabaig, 2nd Con Con (E1 5b), alt lead onsight Black Streak (E1 5c, I led the 5b pitch) and then lead onsight The Pillar (E2 5b). My 2nd E2!
Sat: Seana Mheallan which was a bit wet. 2nd the only dry route, Route with a View (HVS 5a).
Sun: Diabaig, alt lead onsight Route Three (E1 5b, I led the crux pitch, although the 5a pitch was more like 5b too).
Really good three days in Torridon and I'm mega chuffed to have onsighted The Pillar, my second E2. It was bit run out so I had a little jibber but managed to get it done.
Both E2s I've done have been graded 5b so at some point I need to get on a 5c.
bit of a rubbish week as I got a cold on monday which i am pretty sure is about a lower immune system due to things going on with my mum and a load of major hassle at work..usually shake a cold in a couple of days but still have a bit of it now, been at the hospital visiting my mum for the last few days with sessions a malham before hand.. some constructive some a waste of time as not well enough to get enough out of it.
m- rest day
t-ill but not as bad - malham and turbo trainer (gentle session)climb ok but balance crap because i had snot in my ears!got on project.. key holds wet.. but linked alot more yp until where i couldn't hold on because of the wet holds.
f-about 70% of my usual self, gym (int training on bike.. shorter sesison at 80% work rate, weights, pull ups, core)
s- malham- felt crap with the cold.. buggered up warm up. got on project, linked more from bottom to first overlap on lead, worked extra few moves needed to get into position to make the crux moves.. before now i have clipped in, asked for slack to be taken in, positioned my hands and feet and just rocked over.. the extra couple if feet of climbing required to actually get in this position feels hard, so did that until i was sick of it.. catching the hold and slipping off it as it was wet. felt tired today.
s- gym (int training on bike, proper session, felt much better, breathing ok now, weights, pull ups, core)
m- malham and sesion in gym on bike. climbing..felt much better on warm up. project.. almost led through from second to fifth bolt.. (so that would've been through the crux) but got puffed out on last move. eventually did it after stopping using the damp hold as an excuse.. it was a valid reason up until today but now it was loads drier than it has been for two weeks. fell off next over lap a few times.. feet aren't right here. worked out a better way on top rope afterwards. links are coming along, endurance is the issue still but getting a bit better. had two proper sessions of working endurance on it (and not feeling well) so early days in terms of seeing significant results with this.
this week could see a three day in a row at malham for me on my project... which i expect won't be the best thing to do...but if the weather's good, i'm not full of snot and i have the time i won't be able to resist
Well done with Precious Metal, first E1, that's awesome!!
and ... also good to meet ali and CY at malham.. loads of effort..strong climbing and made me feel less embarrassed about my grunting!! it sounded like the french open women's semi final last year
brilliany effort on SS Ali.. i wasn't chuffed when i bagged that.. just relieved. you'll get space race no problem once oyu get your head round it .. and as ER always says.. take the falls and they become less of a big deal.. yucky but true
S: 5x TR on 6c+ @ Kilnsey, (tying the "left hand" method)
S: 4 TR goes on 6c+/7a at Chapel Head Scar, last go clean
M: 4 lead/bolt to bolt/TR dogs on the 6c+, trying "right hand" method
STG: Start aerobic stuff for summer trip to Alps+More 7a's
MTG: 7a+ Appetite
LTG: 7b I guess, why not!
Nice one with Ivy League. Deffo get on a 7b. Do you have any good ones near you? Is Chapel Head Scar climbale at the moment?
I also feel intense pressure when I'm redpointing a route which is partly why I don't really enjoy it as much as onsighting. Nice when you do it though, like you say the weight is lifted and you can enjoy life again!
cheers for that re 5c. I'm a bit apprehensive. The Pillar is soft E2 5b and I had a jibber which makes me think a hard 5c would make me jibber even more. But like you say it's likely to be better protected. I know, just get on one!
And cheers re CHS. I might be there tomorrow, I'm kind of avoiding Kilnsey just cos going there means getting on the sharp end!
Sounds like you're making good progress on Mesc, even with a cold. You'll be tearing it up when you're back to full fitness. You there thursday to Saturday?
you off tomorrow then .. as in wednesday? you getting an extra day off or are you still on leave?
i think i'm off tomorrow.. might be at malham if my mum's ok to be left as picking her up from the hospital tonight. so planning on malham wed- fri or thurs, fri and sun..
mescalito is going ok, making myself lead it to get clips up to just before rest ledge each time i go but was too tired to make last clip of that plan yesterday.. well my foor slipped as i made the last move. lost a couple of weeks on it properly because of seepage and then becaus eof having this cold.. that's two cold s in about two months.. not like me!!!
what's going to happen if you try and lead sticky? the worst thing that'll happen is that you don't red point it.. and what is guaranteed is that you'll see progress.. just trying to lead it is progress.. even if you lead two or three bolts worth and clip the rest up... nothing to lose at all.. i'd bet my chunky kit kat (stolen from my mum's) that you make progress in some shape or form!!
Goals: Run, lose weight (was 13st3, now 12st9, target 11st7), possible marathon late in year.
M - slow 3 mile run
W - 4 mile trail run
S - 7 mile trail run. itb pain last few yards
Yeah I should get on a well protected E2 5c (e.g. Left Wall!).
I'm in work today, off tomorrow and Friday. Probably go to Kilnsey tomorrow and maybe Friday if I can get a partner. And you're right about Sticky Wicket, except the first bolt is really high so I'd have to MTFU a bit for that. It's got to be done though.
You think maybe your colds are because you are doing a bit much and getting run done? Not just exercise, stress with your mum etc etc.
Why? too high for your clip stick borrow a longer one first bolt being high is a good thing you get to top rope for longer :P
I'd like to rejoin if I may. Have had a bit of a crazy busy last 8 months, have been working through the taught/rapid fire deadline bit of my MSc which hasn't left much time for even going down the wall, let alone climbing. I am just doing my dissertation now and have secured funding for PhD from september, so although I'll be busy, I should at least be a bit more in charge of my own destiny and should in theory be able to make a bit more time for climbing.
After highs last year, climbing has recently mostly been about limiting my losses, which I have struggled to find psyche for. Keen though to get out a bit more over the summer and start a campaign on the portland west coast sea cliffs, the routes there are a bit more complicated in terms of tides/conditions so should reward a blitz approach which fits in better with my life right now.
weight back to 65kg.
tick a 7 on west coast sea cliffs
back to onsighting 7a/+ and RP 7b/+ (specific routes TBC)
Current avrg weight: 67.7kg
M: Castle - mostly session working steep boulder problems in catacombs.
S: Wallsend - brilliant day doing easyish onsights
S: Coastguard - ditto
M: Cuttings - feeling a bit stronger on my project when I broke the key hold. Probably no longer possible for me at the moment.
It's too high to reach with a clip stick, even an extended one. Seriously, it's about 12m up, with a tricky move to get through an overhang to get to it. It's really offputting, I've even emailed Dave Musgrove to ask why it's so high and if the YBF would pay for me putting an extra bolt in. Directissima and The Ashes are the same. Everyone's attitude seems to be MTFU which is I suppose what I will have to do.
Left Wall is.not a bad early E2 if thats your style. The hard bit is firly short, theres a hands off rest, and you could put two.full.racks of wires in it. And its awesome.
The main thing with E2 5c in my experience is finding one that suits your style, and not being overly tempted by something thats short and hence looks less intimidating - sometimes they are properly desperate, especially on grit.
this one? Feels a long time ago now!
I had a look at Left Wall, it's intimidating for sure. But it's pretty safe I think, I could take a fall on the hard bit at the top if I get some bomber gear in where the rest is?
A friend said try Pull My Daisy first and see how that goes.
E2 5c on grit? Not for me!!
You're steady onsighting E3, what's your steady sport onsight grade? I'm thinking that 5c should be doable and equivalent to 6b+ ish sport grade?
A friend told me comes the dervish was eaiser than pull my daisy but has a bold start so that could be a good day for you first E3 :o)
Hey Nick. Just wondered what changes to your climbing you have made since you climbed Fighting Torque? You were getting so strong this time last year and I would have been expecting to hear stories of you sieging 8a's.
(btw this isn't a criticism. :) )
yeah since october last year my climbing has been a lower priority for me than getting a good result on my masters and getting some funding to do a phd. It turns out doing a masters and writing/interviewing for phd applications is pretty intense on its own and by jan I was struggling to get more than a couple of hours in at the wall a week. Climbing outside has mostly been about trying to have fun some time off work, with mixed success. I figure sometimes life just gets in the way a bit, it's not the end of the world and hopefully the way things have turned out there will be plenty of time to climb in the future.
or just put the bolt in yourself .. or offer to pay for it yourself and get soemone to help you?
can you do an easier route near it and lower down it to clip the firt bolt?
i don't now kilnsey so sorry if these are stupid questions
yes the colds are about added stress at the moment.. i.e. mum and work... had a shocker of a day at work on monday and then came down with a cold that night.. hadn't felt anything coming on before that... and daily visits to the hospital and extra driving down there haven't helped... she's coming out today though
There's no easy way around it as the routes next to Sticky Wicket don't have first bolts either! I'm tempted to put the bolt in myself but I don't want flak for having brought the route down to my standards or for irredeemably changing the character of the route. I think there's a fair chance that might happen. Maybe I should start a thread about it and see if anyone objects.
Ha ha not sure I'd go that far about grit but yeah in my limited experience it's an acquired taste!!
Didn't realise your mum was still in hospital. Glad she's coming out though, being at home probably a much better place to recuperate.
wonder if you can train the malham robin (who usually occupies the left hand side of the crag scrounging food.. locally know as.. mr fluffkins.. named his winter by me) to fly up with a quick draw and the rope... he'll do anything for half an eccles cake!
my mum had a neck dissection on friday, lymph nodes on one side of her neck removed and more biopsies.. she's doing really well though :o)
I thought Chee Tor took ages to dry out? But if you've been down there after all the rain we've been having I guess I'm wrong?
12m might be a bit of an exagerration... but it's deffo too high for a clip stick or an extended one. Moves are probably 6b ish, fairly easy I suppose. I'll probably just get on with it and stop whinging.
Blimey, yet more tests. Hope they find out what's going on.
Good effort on all the e3s by the way. Your an inspriation at the moment!
Yes that's true. Shouldn't be that big a deal if it's only once a day.
Nicely manic/mixed week of work, job application, visiting parents, over eating, emotional rollercoaster and overeating. Despite all this, managed to crush :-)
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond
MTG (Spring 2013) - Build a pyramid of 8a/8a+'s and top it with an 8b or two, namely;
Melan-copout, Bad melans, Melanbeach, Para-trooper & Battle (original method) at LPT and one or two of:
Melanchollie at LPT
Insomnia at Dinbren
SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me.
Stolen at Kilnsey
STG - minor update
- Finger re-hab; getting there
- Shoulder/elbow physio; tackling the cause of my elbow pains, not the symptoms
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) back up to 76.3kg and and 6.9% (filled my face at food festival and birthday meal)
The week just gone:
M - More cave action; great session repeating loads of stuff. Did BC direct for first time.
T - Racecourse traversing - 3x there and back (7a/+ ish?)
W - Went to Pigeons after warming up in Cave, but too cold to have a decent go on anything. Back to cave for more PE work.
T - Effin' cold in the wind so only managed 2x laps of racecourse traverse.
F - Applied for job in Houston. Eek! Might have to do some quick ticking before start date in September.
S - 1.5hr off from visiting parents and another cave session. Came very close to Highlife, 8A and did LF sans pocket in two overlapping halves. Big progress; maybe short sessions are the way forward?
S - Another short session; An-cap at Frodsham. Managed long term training goal (Indirect into Foghorn Leghorn, V10/11) as start of first problem :-) then got massively powered out doing other 7B an-cap laps.
M - went to food festival and then spent 4 hours going through late partners personal bank records and university notes. A lot harder emotionally than i expected. Beer, steak, wine & choc tart for dinner; fatty fatty!
Top effort on the training proj Ally!
I was given 8wks leave a year in my PhD and regularly took a half day off each week to climb on a wednesday afternoon with the undergrads. I went from 7c to 8b during my PhD; go forth and crush!
Late report from me as i have been out having fun :-)
My little brother ( well actually he's bigger then me and is 25 ) has been over for the week prior to going to China for the forseeable future and we had a night away for my wife's birthday so time has been tight and there has been too much beer.
I did get my training board back up though. It needs some adjusting but will be in use asap.
M - Planned rest day after practice triathlon
T - Un planned rest day due to massive hangover. Kicked myself up the arse in the evening and did a weighted hangs session. Still adding more weight ( 33% of body weight now ). Weighed myself for this and i am now 4kgs heavier than when i started triathlon training but BF is 14% which is lower than it was. I think the weight has gone on my legs from cycling and running. Not a bad thing as my legs are like matchsticks. 12% Bf seems to suit me as sustainable so i may go for this.
W - cycle/run session 21k/5k
T - Weighted pull ups then a night of excess at a posh hotel. Roof top bar with infinity pool overlooking the sea, big ( goldfish bowl sized ) gins and tonic and an eat all you can buffet. Awesome !
F - 500m swim in hotel pool, evening swim in lake and then cycle/run session 21k/5k
S - Climbing @ Chilam Balam
S - Climbing @ Cauche
Happy enough with tri training. The evening swim was to sort out my outside swimming and it went well. I realised i was breathing too hard and was basically hyperventilating leading to the dizziness and feelings of panic. Actually really enjoyed it by the end of the session
Climbing @ Chilam was amazing as ever. Seeing so many routes in the 8a-9b range all in one place is brilliant. I didn't get back on the 7c from last year but spent the day being battered on 7a-7b's on top rope. I did lead a 6b and a 6c on sight which went OK and very nearly got a 7a top rope onsight.
Cauche was OK. Bit sore from day before and picked a project 7a i hadn't done there. Warmed up leading a couple of routes up to 6c. All repeats, but the 6c is one that always makes me nervous on lead as it has a decent run out at the crux. Felt very steady. The 7a project turned out to be a bit of a sandbag. I bolt to bolted as far as i could and took some planned and un planned lead falls. I couldn't get the top section at all. My mate lead through and declared he'd been on many easier 7b's. I couldn't do it on a top rope. But its all progress.
Had a mixed day on a 230m E1 yesterday. We got lost after pitch 4. Using a hand drawn topo off the internet on a mountain route, which has only had a couple of ascents, just after the wettest Winter/Spring on record was probably not the best idea. Abbed off and went for beer but still got over 100m done and the crux pitches too. Felt very steady and no problems with the trad leading head at that grade. First limestone trad for ages and there wasn't much gear.
This week i am off to the UK tomorrow. Going to try and go to a local wall Thursday afternoon ,amongst other appointments, and then its the triathlon at the weekend. Once that monkey is off my back i need to get back to 7a first ( hopefully quickly ) fire on to 7b and 7c before the end of the year. No excuses this year really. I've got the partners now and i'm not short of rock.
I think PE training is what is missing and will continue working on the mental side of falling.
Can you do a PhD in climbing studies ?
Well done on ticking the project.
Please can someone start next weeks thread and I will post stats asap. Think I am in the pass so won't have internet access
Flying visit i am afraid. I get in late Wed eve and got Thursday to see my Dad and Mum in Manchester then down to my friends house in the flatlands for the triathlon then fly back from Birmingham on Monday morning.
When I did left wall, I placed gear from the rest, went up a few moves, place gear, reversed, went up another couples of moves, placed nore gear, reversed, then went for it. I dont think I had to do any hard moves with gear below my feet and theres nothing to hit. Tactics :)
The sport/trad grade comparin doesnt really work. I woudnt say im steady on e3, maybe on most e2s and appy to have a go at most e3s...sport wise I dont do much onighting at all but I guess 6c would be the grade id be dissappointed to fall off. Ive onsighted one 7a. However nost e2 5cs will be more lie 6a+/6b as a sport grade. The problem is that you just cant climb them.like tht - you have to climb slowly, constantly looking for possible gear placements, making sure your ropes are ok, and route-finding. All this takes a lot of energy. To me, climbing an e3 of maye 6b+ is t least as demanding physicially as a sport 6c/+, as well as mentally. Perhap if you were brilliant at trad this difference would reduce a bit - and it also depends on the route.
M: Core. Bike commute.
T: Lunchtime run, short one I think. Bike commute.
Witches Quarry with Nomics, led 2x VS (4c, 5a), seconded HVS 5a & E1 5b.
W: Took the day off to catch up with a friend who was briefly in the UK. Freezing cold in the Peak so went for a run/walk around Errwood Reservoir/Shining Tor, maybe 15km in total but lots of walking and a long time in the pub! Lawrencefield in the evening, led Once Pegged Wall (VS 5a) then seconded a HS. Awesome day, as much for the people as the activity.
T: Bike commute one way only. Completely shattered from nearly 20 hours on the go the day before.
F: Bike commute one way only.
S: Cloggy. Partner didn't fancy anything hard so did Slab Route Right Hand (HS 4c), crux was fine & run-out easy slabs above probably did me some good!
S: Dinas Mot - Direct Route (VS 5b). Led all except first easy pitch. Brilliant, though I expected a VS 5b to have one very well protected move - not so much! No gear above you on the hard move, would have hit the ledge complete with spiky rock quite hard. Took me a few up-and-downs to commit but did it. Rest of pitch harder than expected, think I'd psyched myself out a bit, but got through it ok. Ran away to the sun (it was freezing!) and did Skylon (HS 4b) & Crackstone Rib (S 4a) on Carreg Wastad. Both great. Very glad I didn't do Crackstone Rib when I was only leading severe... would have been very scared!
Good week, lots of milage on rock & lots of good mates time which I needed. Wales was fab, annoyed I didn't push myself onto something harder, but this was more partner related than anything else. I was horribly intimidated looking across at the Cromlech though, couldn't actually imagine myself getting on anything there even though it's been a dream for a long time. It looks horribly scarier when you're actually intending on climbing rather than just dreaming...
This week isn't looking like I'll get out climbing at all, I'm getting a cold & boyfriend's parents are here from Thurs for a week. 2 commitments though: I WILL do some longer runs once I've stopped sniffling. And next time I do manage to climb I AM going to get on an E1 if at all possible. Heckle and laugh if I don't please!
sarah and I went through my sister in laws house whilst she was in hospital before she died, i don't think you can prepare for anything like it really... (she was a serious hoarder too!!!) we always went out mountain biking on the way home to help feel a tiny bit better. I've no intention of going through any of my dad's stuff for a long long time... and when i do i think the steak, choc tart and glass of pop will be a good plan.
hope you have a good week training .. be gentle on yourself for at least a day or two maybe.. we'll see :o)
Re Sticky Wicket, could you take a bouldering mat to protect the initial pull over the undercut start. Once you are established, isn't it pretty easy ground to the first bolt and the start of the climb proper?
Thanks Leon. Chee Tor gets very dirty vegetated over winter so can hold the moisture, but once its been cleaned up, most of the crag (far left is a slower) will dry in a day or two of good weather. Those routes I mentioned are clean now and there are others that have been done this year as well. If you want to do.somethig that looks dirty still, just take a brush and a willingbess to pull some weeds out, the routes are well worth it :) The more traffic the better it will be.
Sounds like good tactics on Left Wall. I'm probably overanalysing it. I should just get on it.
I think you're right that sport grades don't equate usefully to technical moves on trad routes. The grades might be equivalent for the technical climbing but trad is so much more than that. I was looking to get an indication of the sport grade a reasonably comfy E2/E3 onsighter would be at. Just so I can tell myself my grades are about right and therefore looking at E2 isn't totally ridiculous!
Yep, I could. And probably will. Thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks grubes. Up for the Malham meet, have emailed you.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st
3 core/yoga, 1 climb, 1 run, eat well, fingerboard (2/3, yes, no, yes, no) - same goals for next week
Weight - 11st 12lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Yoga
T - Core
F - Rest
S - Table Direct on Cadair Idris
S - DIY
Easing back into things still. Went to Yoga on Wednesday, which was really unexpectedly good. So going again this week. Evening climbing is hard at the moment as I'm still trogging away with DIY in the evenings and the wife has decided to hit the gym in a big way, which is surprising. If she keeps this up, I'll have to get another car. Ate fairly well this week.
I have just weighed myself mid-post and it's a definite YYFY moment, back to 11st 12lbs. Wooo. 11st 7lbs here we come. However the Mother in Law has now joined in with the wife going 'ohhh you're really thin, better not loose any more weight'. Seriously? I'm 5ft 10in and 11st 12lbs, BMI of 23.8, so not a tubber, but not silly thin. Gah.
Went up Table Direct, VDiff on Cadair Idris on Saturday. Nice little route. One run-out section of grassy ledge climbing, which wasn't nice, but the rest of it was good. The approach shoes I was wearing gave me blisters, so the run on Sunday was scuppered.
Broke my combi drill this week. So no fingerboard up. New one on order. I'll get it done, honest!
Nomics - just whack another bolt in. It's a sport route, it's supposed to be safe. I really don't get the idea of adventurous sport routes. If you want adventure, do trad! (it's what I do at least!). Gah. I'll stop whining now. Possibly a bit odd, but have you thought about taking a stepladder to get a bit of extra reach? Or take a bouldering pad. Even odder, stand on a mates shoulder?
useful - well done on the E1, it's a big milestone.
PPG - You'll get the redpoint soon. I have faith in you!
All the crushers - well done all!
> Can you do a PhD in climbing studies?
> Well done on ticking the project.
I was given 8wks leave a year in my PhD and regularly took a half day off each week to climb on a wednesday afternoon with the undergrads.
=( I get about 4/5wks and my boss complains if we take all of that!
Nice one on The Pillar! How did it compare to the E1? Planning to head to Scotland tradding in the summer and Diabeg is one of the places I'd quite like to get to, so any tips for good routes would be very welcome!
*For the meantime at least :o)
Hope you and Sarah are both feeling better and all went ok with getting your mum out of hospital.
Cheers. It's such a relief to be sorted for three years - it's only three years, sadly I couldn't string the funding out longer than that :-)
Hoping that I'll be able to treat it like a job and have things like evenings off to train, regular holidays, weekends etc. that I don't seem to have had for a while - psyched to get into a more regular routine now.
I did Diabeg Pillar ages ago and it's very steady. You'll cruise it.
Can't remember what else I did up there but had a great time at Rieff.
I thought The Pillar was steady climbing and probably easier climbing than The Strand (my only other E2) but the gear is more spaced. I get a bit wobbly on spaced gear so overall I experienced it as harder even though it's lower in the grade. Good though.
The other routes I did at Diabaig are also good. Route Two is a brilliant two pitch HVS, both pitches good. Black Streak has one hard move which is well protected. Route Three is good with one hard 5b move in the second pitch and a hard for 5a crack at the top. Northumberland Wall is another four star E2 and the other E2 near The Pillar is also supposed to be good. We didn't do either but if you were up for those two and The Pillar that would make for an awesome day.
It's such an amazing setting you'll have a brilliant day whatever you do. Gets a bit midgey apparently but there were none when we were there this year or last year.
I wasted my spare PhD time rowing. And to think I was in Bangor and the mountains/crags were all on my doorstep! :(
I now feel the world is my oyster, especially as there's a load of amazing classic less-than-extreme (e.g., HS, VS) routes waiting to be discovered (targetting Cromlech and Tremadog).
I've been waiting to get my own trad rack since about January: I have a load of slings, draws and bit and bobs already, just no metal-based passive protection. I feel a visit to Joe Brown with a wodge of cash is in order this weekend (£65 for a full set of DMM Wallnuts and £160 for 4xDragon Cams: can't go wrong...).
Have texted Ali already re friendliness of Pillar, very amenable early E2 material imo. (terrible internet in van last night!). Next time you're up there I though the bug was a little harder and better, loch tollaidh crags I think?
Saw some guys on Northumberland wall probably the day we saw you there last year and they thought it was very very much the opposite end of the grade from the pillar ie basically E3 instead of not far from E1.
We got midges badly our first day there. Usual precautions apply!
Either the Pass or Ogwen Valley, eyeing up Idwal Slabs/Milestone Buttress with my shiny new gear! :D
I am aiming for the cromlech but talk of cloggy going on is a very good alternative camping in nant peris oposite the pub
If this cold northerly wind hangs around then cloggy won't be much fun. We dodged the wind at gogarth today.
S : walk in to lake beneath Drum at north end of Welsh 3000s
S: Welsh 3000s. Walked it with wife, N to S starting at 4am. 16 hours peak to peak, 19 hours in all, and well done my wife for keeping going to the end. I had to race on at the end to get our foot in the door of Pen y Pass YHA before it shut for the night, then race back to find my wife in the dark and help her in.
Lead a severe (right hand trinity)and a VS (via media)last week and then a VS (pegasus wall) this week, so it is going ok.
Bad week for fitness this week but a great week for punk rock.
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.
M: - nothing.
T: - pm: nomeansno gig in Nottingham, fantastic as ever.
W: - am: hangover.
W: - afternoon: Stanage Plantation routes.
W: - pm: gutted to not be able to get over to NoMeansNo in Manchester.
T: – 7.46m trail run, 796ft.
F: - nothing.
S: - on holiday.
S: - on holiday.
If the first bolt is too high to be clipped with a stick and people are seriously suggesting taking a mat to protect the start then the route hasn't been bolted properly - if you know what you're doing then stick another bolt in low down. This isn't gritstone FFS - broken ankles aren't part of the game sport climbing.
I'm actually around N Wales this weekend, will have limited chance to climb though. The inlaws are visiting (from NZ), we're staying in Llandudno for the weekend, I'm thinking a day in the mountains and a day on Anglesey. They're definitely not climbers though (or even hikers) so sneaking a route or two in will depend on what they're wanting to do.
Sport around the Orme is a much more likely prospect. Don't have a guidebook - can anyone recommend any crags for lower grade (5 - 6c) stuff?
I'm planning on FC meet-ing it if it's happening, I live near enough in Bradford though so could probably squeeze a grit route or two in either at the weekend or after work.
If anyone's interested: the logistics for the Welsh 3000s worked much better for us this time than last time. We tried to make everything as easy as possible for the day itself. The forecast being good, we drove up from Cornwall on the Saturday, dropped off a bike and bags of clothes and food and coffee supplies at Pen y Pass YHA where we had booked a room for the Sunday night. Then we dropped off two bottles of water behind the wall at the first parking place you come to in Ogwen valley, then drove on to Aber car park and walked in to the lake at the end of the trail. We had snall OMM type-bags already packed for the day itself, and big sacks to take sleeping bags, tent and coffee (well, you have to have priorities..) up to the lake. We got up at 3am, got going at 4am and just kept walking. We did the normal (ie to the left) descent of Pen yr Olwen this time, rather than the hellish straight down descent we did last time to the right hand end of the lake,which was much less stupid, and, later, broke right from the scree ascent into the Glyders asap onto firm scrambling rock. On arriving at Nant Peris we walked up the pass then headed for the Blywch at the right hand end of Crib Goch, then over the pinnacles and back again. We messed up on the next one and somehow lost our way, got on to some goat-like track descending to the left and had to haul our way back up to the summit, then got to Snowdon 16 hours after reaching Foel Fras. Alone, I think I could do this easily in under 12 hours, but that's a challenge for another time. The hardest part is descending Elidir Fawr, knowing that the Crib Goch ascent is still to come, and forcing oneself to actually do it rather than stop at that point. The final section is the best bit.
Not knowing whether we would have a bed for the night, time running on and the hostel having refused to give us the combination for the door in advance made the final descent unnecessarily stressful.
The next morning early I cycled (well, free-wheeled, virtually, for the most part..) round to Aber car park then walked in to the lake, retrieved the tent and gear, by which time it was very windy, walked back to the car park then drove back to Pen y Pass to pick up my wife. I was back at the hostel by 10:30.
In all, our tine was slow, but we did it.
Did it in the same direction last year myself and somehow managed to get lost in the clag on Crib Goch. Work that one out,
Well done - an out and back next time.
Weather in Snowdonia apparently been good today (we were on gogarth but spoke to folk and also lots of dry looking rock on the way through ogwen this evening).
Gonna be in pass next few days, prob grochan Sat and cromlech tomorrow to minimise queuing. All flexible though depending on conditions and what we get done! Hopefully see you there! Hoping to see ally smith there too. If the weather is nice I'll probably be sporting bright red trousers, regardless I'm about 5'11", late 20s, brown hair, glasses, osprey pack. If I'm on the cromlech I'll probably be making up excuses for failing on some sort of classic in the low E grades :)
Or keep an eye out for the van which is a white transit ending NZT which will be in one of the laybys. I'll try and keep some doors open so it's slightly less intimidating/unfriendly to stick your head in and say hi.
I'm 6' ish Mid 20s short light brown hair and wear glasses.
I am keen for cromlech and so is my partner.
Hopefully see you around
Fixed that for you :-)
Precious Metal, E1 5b http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6143 It's actually quite nice, a slightly slabby finger crack traverse! IT (E2 5b), which finishes on the same lower offs, is a completely different mega-pump fest! :)
There's some nice new low-graded routes at Penmaenbach Quarry http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1012 although they use the bolts from the recent failure scare https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bolt-failures-on-north-wales-limestone as do the nice sport routes at Craigiau Heulog http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/08/20/creigiau%E2%80%99r-heulog-%E2%80%93-new-sunny-sport-venue-on-o...
Those are the only areas I've climbed on the Orme.
And I must stop replying to my own posts... (talking to myself?!)
After something of a hero day yesterday and a cracking day the one before today I was a broken man. Should be up at Cromlech tomorrow given lack of getting on ambitions today, assuming I'm recovered that is!
Elsewhere on the site
Coming up with a list of the 'best' has felt desperate, with this in mind I'm afraid I make reference to lots of... Read more
Since launching their fantastic Reactive lighting technology Petzl have been producing brighter and longer lasting torches that... Read more
Urban climber James Kingston will be on stage at all UK screenings to answer questions about his remarkable film... Read more
Shortly after the sun crested Half Dome on 28th October, two of Yosemite Valley’s fastest women started up the Yosemite... Read more
The Lakpa Rita and Kriti Tech jackets are a pair of shell products from the Sherpa Adventure Gear brand – the... Read more