/ Recommend a rope for alpine mountaineering/scottish winter/trad

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Brian Pollock - on 28 May 2013
I'm considering buying a new rope and would appreciate some advice.

I currently own a 70m single rope used for sport climbing. However, I would like something lightweight and versatile for use on alpine mountaineering routes, Scottish winter climbing and also useful for UK trad.

Would a 50m half be best (assuming partners also had the same)?

I don't suppose there is much point buying another single?

I see some people consider a half to be enough for moving together on alpine mountaineering routes and would perhaps carry a second half for more technical ground.

Thanks.
Brian Pollock - on 28 May 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

Thinking one of the triple rated ropes might be a good solution (i.e. Beal Joker, Edelrid Swift or Mammut Serenity)?
CurlyStevo - on 28 May 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:
Will you also be considering EuroIce ?
Brian Pollock - on 28 May 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

Long term - yes.
CurlyStevo - on 28 May 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:
Well for UK trad 50 metres is enough, but Scottish winter 60 metres can speed the day up, quite often the best way of climbing a route has belays a bit more than 50 metres apart OR you'd end up doing some very short pitches in paranoia of running out of rope. Euroice 60 metres is more important again as the bolted belays can be more than 50 metres apart.

For Scottish winter 8mm is great as it lowers the weight of a 60 metre rope for walking in, for euroice it's less important IMO as you are not walking in very far with the rope although a heavy rope may weight down on you towards the top of the pitches. A 60 metre half rope is also usefull for short single pitch routes (<30 metres) as the second can tie in to the middle and the leader to both ends.

The downsides to 8mm are less security as a single line for alpine use (and for two seconds), supposedly quicker wear (not what I've found with my mammut pheonix) and they won't work as well in standard belay devices as high factor falls can be hard to hold.

In your shoes I'd probably get a 60 metre 8.2mm to 8.5mm dry treated half rope (although you could consider a 8mm). I see little advantage to getting a mutli-purpose rope seeing as you already have a single rope and anything more than 8.5mm is getting a bit heavy IMO.
Brian Pollock - on 29 May 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

Thank you for the advice. Really appreciate it.

I think a half would be a good option. I'm only tempted by the ideal of a 60m triple rated rope as more often than not I'm only going to be able to take one rope on trips.

Quite liked the look of the Beal Iceline for a half though. Good deals on it too.
CurlyStevo - on 29 May 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:
If you search on here you will see many users are extremely happy with the life span they are getting out of the mammut pheonix (8mm dry treated half rope). I've had mine nearly 6 years now and I can't see any reason they need retireing just yet! One rope is getting close (ish maybe another year) and the other has a lot of use left in it! Friends have owned the ice lines and my impression is they don't take the same amount of useage before needing retireing.

However as mentioned 8mm is getting a bit thin for single rope alpine use and also 2 seconds one on each rope. Still it wouldn't bother me too much!
Brian Pollock - on 29 May 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:

Thanks I'll look into that.
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stuart58 - on 29 May 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock: a solution might be get a beal joker 9.1 and a 8mm half that way u have all options covered.

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