/ Yorkshire Off-widths

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MeMeMe - on 29 May 2013

Okay so I've got myself a size 5 camalot (and a mate with a size 5 friend), what I need now is a list of local off-widths to get some use out of it with, ideally in order of difficulty.

The list so far -

Desperation Crack (Brimham - ticked)
...
Forked Lightning Crack (Heptonstall - although apparently more of a layback)
...
Giggling Crack (Brimham - gulp)


Anyone like to help fill in the blanks?

Lankyman - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: there are some on limestone. Ones that spring to mind: Quad Crack http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=98416
Moughton Mauler http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=214425
Over here in Lancs:
Alladinsane http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=21672 (you don't actually need a big cam but it helps).
Probably lots more.
lithos on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe:

tons at Brimham, Bog Crack, Roadside thing and lots more
grubes - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe:
Dont limit yourself to yorkshire add in chew.
Freddies finale
Blue lights crack
then do trident at the same time
MeMeMe - on 29 May 2013
In reply to Karl Lunt:

Hadn't thought about Limestone for some reason, thanks!
MeMeMe - on 29 May 2013
In reply to grubes:

Want to concentrate on Yorkshire for the first list and then go further afield once we make some progress.


Okay the list so far is -


Desperation Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28133)
Bog Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90175)
Roadside Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=71223)
Quad Crack (Attermire - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=98416)
Forked Lightning Crack (Heptonstall - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28485)
The Moughton Mauler (Maughton Nab - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=214425)
Gigglin' Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28009)


Anyone for any more?

lummox - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: Botterill's Crack - Ilkley Quarry ?
Mark Morris - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: Boot crack,HS 4b, memory not helping with crag though, lots of bouldering there, left hand side heading out of Leeds.
lummox - on 29 May 2013
In reply to Mark Morris: Boot Crack is at Caley - a good route but defo not offwidth ; )
MeMeMe - on 29 May 2013
In reply to lummox:
> (In reply to MeMeMe) Botterill's Crack - Ilkley Quarry ?

Good shout, added it to the list -

Desperation Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28133)
Botterill's Crack (Ilkley - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28249)
Bog Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90175)
Roadside Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=71223)
Quad Crack (Attermire - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=98416)
Forked Lightning Crack (Heptonstall - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28485)
The Moughton Mauler (Maughton Nab - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=214425)
Gigglin' Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28009)
pebbles - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: you'll be wanting a size six camalot for roadside crack I'm afraid, size 5 is too small. its a place/udge/replace higher up all the way up type thang!

size 5 camalot is handy for Jabberwock chimney though, and not sure if it would work here but while youre ticking off widths dont miss central crack on cracked buttress - the most evilly offwidth VS top out at brimham
MeMeMe - on 29 May 2013
In reply to lummox:
> (In reply to Mark Morris) Boot Crack is at Caley - a good route but defo not offwidth ; )


Yup, nice route but not an off-width!
lummox - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: Are you prepared to delve into Guisecliffe ? If so, there are a few to add...
MeMeMe - on 29 May 2013
In reply to pebbles:
> (In reply to MeMeMe) you'll be wanting a size six camalot for roadside crack I'm afraid, size 5 is too small. its a place/udge/replace higher up all the way up type thang!

I almost got one at the weekend in the Go Outdoors sale but couldn't quite bring myself to buy both a size 5 and size 6 in the same weekend!


> size 5 camalot is handy for Jabberwock chimney though, and not sure if it would work here but while youre ticking off widths dont miss central crack on cracked buttress - the most evilly offwidth VS top out at brimham

Is Jabberwock chimney just that bit at the top of Jabberwock?
If so we did that the other weekend, nice route.

I've done Central Crack on a hot day one summer. I remember feeling a bit sick after doing the top. Good stuff :)

MeMeMe - on 29 May 2013
In reply to lummox:
> (In reply to MeMeMe) Are you prepared to delve into Guisecliffe ? If so, there are a few to add...

I went there once, we only just managed to find our way out again...


But oh go on then. Might not rush to do the Guisecliffe ones though...
Red Rover - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: Dogleg crack at Brimham
lummox - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: I once took as long to get to the chosen route on Guisecliffe as I did to the bottom of Pentathol on Gogarth Main Cliff : )

I'll come back to you with the Camalot fodder...
lummox - on 29 May 2013
In reply to lummox: Cave Crack at Widdop ? Not really offwidth but a struggle as I recall.
tmawer - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe:

Twinking crack, Chapel-le-dale, middle tier.
deepsoup - on 29 May 2013
In reply to lummox:
> Boot Crack is at Caley - a good route but defo not offwidth ; )

Also at Caley, and also not really an offwidth, is Compulsion Crack.
Great fun - it's like a dirtier version of Obscenity at Burbage North. ;o)
pebbles - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: re jabberwock -yes, just the top, and its not really off width, more of a narrow chimney. Bog crack now - I had to lie down for two minutes at the top of that before I could recover enough to set up a belay.
pebbles - on 29 May 2013
In reply to Red Rover: ooh, might have to take a look at that!!!!! i believe the second pitch is supposed to be a stinker...
kyaizawa - on 29 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: Certainly not an expert, but my housemate is equally deranged :P so I've got an idea of what's around. Have a look at http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=545 for a list of offwidths just at Brimham, some already mentioned.
Also I'm pretty sure there's stuff at Almscliff (the likes of Central Crack??) though it may be more down to having my small hands and finding fist cracks generally insure...
MeMeMe - on 30 May 2013
In reply to kyaizawa:


Thanks all! (I may regret saying that after I've tried some of these...)

Okay, the lost so far is now -

Desperation Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28133)
Botterill's Crack (Ilkley - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28249)
Twinking Crack (Chapel-le-Dale - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=89849)
Dogleg Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28042)
Bog Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90175)
Roadside Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=71223)
Quad Crack (Attermire - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=98416)
Forked Lightning Crack (Heptonstall - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28485)
Tube Break (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90159)
The Moughton Mauler (Maughton Nab - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=214425)
Gigglin' Crack (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28009)


Brimham seems a fertile ground for these kind of things so I'll have a look through the guide and see if any others sounds off-widthy.

Al Evans on 30 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: This is only just south of the border and could be off-widthed (if you were insane :-)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=109046
MeMeMe - on 30 May 2013
In reply to Al Evans:

It's in South Yorkshire so it counts!

I have done it already though, I don't think at the time I considered off-widthing it!
Rob Davies - on 30 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: Delilah at Pule Hill is a very awkward offwidth if you can't squeeze inside, though a big cam isn't necessary. Rhododendron Crack at Rivelin Quarry is another which becomes too narrow to squeeze past for a short section, but a big cam is too small!
deepsoup - on 30 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe:
> It's in South Yorkshire so it counts!

In that case you'll be wanting to put Kremlin Crack at Rivelin on your list. :o)
johncoxmysteriously - on 30 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe:

You'll be wanting that E3 at Brimham. Just as soon as I can remember its name. Left of Charming Crack. Is it The Brutaliser?

jcm
johncoxmysteriously - on 30 May 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Yes, here's the one.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28019

Not sure about the beta from the chap who suggests a shirt without holes in the elbows, mind. I think it's best just to accept that whatever you wear you'll have to throw it away afterwards.

Impressive too that chap in the Charming Crack galley doing it in shorts. No wonder they've upgraded it.

jcm
ads.ukclimbing.com
MeMeMe - on 30 May 2013
In reply to Rob Davies:
> (In reply to MeMeMe) Delilah at Pule Hill is a very awkward offwidth if you can't squeeze inside, though a big cam isn't necessary. Rhododendron Crack at Rivelin Quarry is another which becomes too narrow to squeeze past for a short section, but a big cam is too small!

Okay, added both of those although if a big cam is too small on Rhododendron Crack I might not rush to do that one...
MeMeMe - on 30 May 2013
In reply to deepsoup:
> (In reply to MeMeMe)
> [...]
>
> In that case you'll be wanting to put Kremlin Crack at Rivelin on your list. :o)

It's not that I want to do it it's more of a compulsion. Added.
MeMeMe - on 30 May 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> Yes, here's the one.
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28019
>
> Not sure about the beta from the chap who suggests a shirt without holes in the elbows, mind. I think it's best just to accept that whatever you wear you'll have to throw it away afterwards.
>
> Impressive too that chap in the Charming Crack galley doing it in shorts. No wonder they've upgraded it.
>
> jcm


I don't think I'll wear a shirt, holes or no holes.
Although something long sleeved might be wise, still have scabby elbow from last weekend.


Okay, the updated list is -

Kremlin Krack HVS 5a (Rivelin Edge - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=9673)
Botterill's Crack HVS 5a (Ilkley - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28249)
Desperation Crack HVS 5b (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28133)
Rhododendron Crack E1 5a (Rivelin Quarries - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=41675)
Twinking Crack E1 5b (Chapel-le-Dale - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=89849)
Dogleg Crack E1 5b (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28042)
Delilah E1 5b (Pule Hill Rocks - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6521)
Bog Crack E1 5b (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90175)
Roadside Crack E1 5b (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=71223)
Quad Crack E3 5c (Attermire - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=98416)
Forked Lightning Crack E3 5c (Heptonstall - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28485)
The Brutaliser E3 5c (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28019)
Tube Break E3 6a (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90159)
The Moughton Mauler E4 6a (Maughton Nab - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=214425)
Gigglin' Crack E6 6c (Brimham - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28009)


Feel free to keep them coming.
johncoxmysteriously - on 30 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe:

>I don't think I'll wear a shirt, holes or no holes.

What?!

Up to you, of course, but won't you file off your nipples?

jcm
MeMeMe - on 30 May 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to MeMeMe)
>
> >I don't think I'll wear a shirt, holes or no holes.
>
> What?!
>
> Up to you, of course, but won't you file off your nipples?


I think there may be a misunderstanding, I'm not yet attempting the purity of the topless on-sight, I will of course be wearing some kind of t-shirt, which granted is a type of shirt.

deepsoup - on 30 May 2013
In reply to MeMeMe:
> It's not that I want to do it it's more of a compulsion.

Ha ha, I know the feeling.
The good news about Kremlin is that you may be glad you own a size 5 camalot. ;o)
dunnyg - on 31 May 2013
MeMeMe:

Was up at moughton a year or 2 ago, there was tat in the mauler, which might need replacing before an ascent.
MeMeMe - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to MeMeMe:

So I just wanted to post an update of progress and thank all the people who have posted.

We made a start on Saturday at Brimham, warming up on Inside Out (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90269). More a chimney than an off width but a good warm up if you ignore the advice to stick to the outside of it and get stuck in it as far as you can get. Bear in mind on this one that you've got to get back down the way you went up, as we realised once we'd got up there...

Then straight on to Bog Crack (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90175), tricky to get started (I've come to realise the hardest bit with these off-widths is often get established in them) then a bit of a struggle at the top where we were glad of my number 5.

Then after lunch and an ice cream onto Dog Leg Crack (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28042) where Tom made short work of the bottom pitch (yes, a 2 pitch route at Brimham) and belayed on the ledge beside a family having a spot of lunch.
I struggled muchly on the second pitch which had a steeply overhanging start which needed a few attempts but eventually got to the top in a ground-up style.

After this we licked our wounds did a few non-offwidths and then rounded the day off with Crackaroo (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=57473) on the way back to the car.


A really enjoyable day and we both feel we'll learning some techniques that if not new to us are certainly un-practised.
It's nice after climbing for 15 years to get that some of that sense of progress you get when you're a beginner.
lummox - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: Good work ! I mostly got cold at the far end of Stanage..
pebbles - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: is there any gear on the second pitch of dogleg crack? was eyeing this up on saturday and thinking it looked a giggle (ie completely horrendous but got to be tried)
MeMeMe - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to pebbles:

Yep, my number 5 fitted and the bottom is hard to work out so well worth getting a bit of gear in.
I think I then got a number 4 in really deep (really hard to place would have been better with another bigger cam) then re-using my number 5 higher up but I was sort of stuck head first i the crack at that point so it's a bit of a daze...

I really recommend the climb though the start was surprisingly sequency for the type of climbing!

Did any of those photos you took of Bog Crack turn out any good?
pebbles - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to MeMeMe: bit rubbish ( phone camera rather than proper one, didnt cope well with the bright sky ) so didnt put in my ukc gallery, was looking to see if I could attach via email, message me with an email and I'll post them to you direct. You seemed to manage it with a minimum of faffage, considering!

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