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arco(italy) polish

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 chrisaustralia 29 May 2013
going to arco in italy sport climbing end of august.i have been told that there is a lot of polished routes there?
are there any areas around arco that have not been affected? (nago,monte brento,pietramurata,sarche etc).
will be taking a trad rack to do some multi pitch,are these polished to??

chris
 samwillo 29 May 2013
In reply to chrisaustralia: A lot of the crags right close to Arco are polished as anything, pretty much don't bother with Massone, like trying to climb a crag made out of butter.

Nago does have some gems worth checking out, try Esuli Lontani and I Soliti Ignoti.

Much better option is to go a bit further out from Arco, La Gola. Lot less polish, free camping (if you're subtle) and sick climbing.

Further out again is Val D'Algone, bit higher up so cooler too. Scenic little crag in the woods by a river, not polished at all.
In reply to samwillo:
thankyou,will check out la gola and val d algone,hate crowds/polish??
 Null 31 May 2013
In reply to chrisaustralia:

As already said - in general the further away from Arco you travel the less polish, as regards the sport climbing. This is particulalry the case for "easy routes" which means up to 5c/6a. There are millions of hard routes and relatively few easy routes (and of course the climbing poulation does not match this). So easy routes are slick.
The trad (mostly semi-trad because there are a fair number of fixed pegs and sometimes odd bolts) is generally less polished, but the same concept applies.

You might also consider that Arco (in normal years - this year is very odd so far) is like a steam oven in July and August, and any sane human is heading up valley (north, towards my house) to find cooler climes. The further you go the cooler it gets and the less polish.
 Jamie B 31 May 2013
In reply to chrisaustralia:

> hate crowds/polish??

So why go sport-climbing in Arco?

 FrJ 31 May 2013
In reply to Jamie B:

Because of tall beautiful looking rock with views out over the lake?
 madam 01 Jun 2013
Hi,
as already said: When you go to Arco, do not climb at Arco
I will just add one more tip: Val Lomasone which is close to Sarche. It is a little bit higher above sea level = colder = better for summer.

adam
In reply to Jamie B: hi mate
staying on the lake with family,so thought we could do some routes not to far away ,looks like we shall have to drive north to get some good stuff!taking trad rack so will look into that.
 Null 18 Jun 2013
In reply to chrisaustralia:
You mean Lake Garda, presumably.
There is almost certainly good sport climbing very nearby. Depending on where exactly you are (it's huge) you can look at the Versante Sud Brescia guide for the south western side:
http://www.versantesud.it/italiano/dettaglio.asp?id=142
or,
Versante Sud Arco giude for the northern end
http://www.versantesud.it/italiano/dettaglio.asp?id=268
and
http://www.libreriadellosport.it/libri/tra-il-lago-e-il-fiume.php
for the south eastern side.
It will be hot so need to choose east or west facing and match the time of day.
There are actually plenty of big trad crags down there too, although finding (and understanding) information about these will be a challange.
If you give me a location fix I might be able to give you some specific ideas.

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