/ Good trad harness?

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stickonthewall - on 02 Jun 2013
Looking for a good trad harness. Been using the DMM Renegade for a few years now. Like the look of the 2.0 with the slide lock. Not really a fan of the double back. Looked at a few reviews but can't decide between arcteryx, dmm, petzl and black diamond. The 7 gear loops are quite good on the renegade but never used less gear loops. Advice please? Thinking of buying a trad only harness and sport only harness instead of an all rounder.
xplorer on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to stickonthewall:

I'll warn you about arcteryx harness's.....

Once you try one on, you're wallet becomes a lot lighter.

There second to none
cuppatea on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to stickonthewall:

Is the new Renegade 2 only available with ziplock buckles?

That would be a shame. DMM got my money last time as the Renegade was one of the few harnesses available with proper grownup buckles.
MFB - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to stickonthewall:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2034

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4476

The camp air cr, adjustable leg loops, weights about 240g, cost less than 50, unless you want to climb big walls it will carry everthing you need, used it trad and winter - great piece of kit
The Ex-Engineer - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to stickonthewall: A top tip from a climbing partner of mine:

Adding two ice screw clippers to a standard 4 gear loop harness works really well for trad. You can rack 4-5 short extenders on each clipper which means you are then not overly constrained by just having the 4 loops. You can do this with the majority of modern all-round harness.

As for which harness to recommend, my only advice is try lots on. If you are a fairly standard body-shape then you shouldn't have any shortage of options. Equally if you are a 'non-standard' body-shape, like I am, then you will struggle.

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