/ UKC Fit Club week 324

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
AJM - on 02 Jun 2013
I seem to remember grubes wanted someone to stick a starter post up, so here goes...

Plus writing my weekly update gives me something to do on the train!
AJM - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

First question - anyone from FC free on Friday? My plan is Lakes Mon-Thurs, but have a free day Friday before I head back home Friday night. Happy for anywhere between Lakes and Cheltenham really although priority to Kilnsey since I've never been before and I quite fancy having a play on something with intentions of coming back for a bit later in the summer.

Would be ideally looking at low-mid Es trad, sport in 7s, boulder to about 7A maybe...
AJM - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Indoor/training priorities
  • Keep up strength, flexibility and core training

<STG>
  • Keep getting out as much as possible and push hard
  • Try more E4s
  • Get back on Ames Low, and try a real (ie not power stamina) V6/7 too
  • Tick some sport pyramid routes

<MTG> - 2013
  • Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
  • Right Hand Man
  • 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route)
  • Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s <So far: 4xE3 onsight, 1xE3 flash, 1xE4 onsight>
  • Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips (see priority below for reasoning) - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
  • Get in best shape possible for 2014 road trip - mainly this means going out as strong as possible since strength will inevitably fade over the trip

<LTG>
  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
  • E4 onsight - ticked 1
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)

<BHAG>
  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

M: Rest
T: Got to the slate just as the heavens opened. Went to Hyll Drem instead. Got on The Burner, E2, but sat on gear on the last move - super strenuous, including strenuous gear, and didn't feel super obvious. Also tried Samurai Groove E3 but down climbed from the junction with Raging Bull - just a whole different level of mental position and my head wasn't in for it.
W: Gogarth. Did The Moon! Greasy/humid/wet on some of the holds on account of the rain which made it feel like a full on experience. Took ages to lead the main pitch. Fantastic spacewalk, brilliant experience. As usual, mental tank drained after that so nothing else that day.
T: Gogarth/Holyhead Mountain. It was meant to be an Upper Tier day but there was a cold wind blowing straight onto it and it as shady to start too so we fled to Holyhead mountain for shelter and sun. Seconded Branflake E2 to get started. Then saw a crack line which looked good, Penny (or Katana in the old guides, some sort of naming confusion). E4 but looked like plenty of gear, figured you've got to try these things so set off. No real mental pressure because it wasn't a route I'd been building up to for ages or agonising over or anything. Sustained climbing, some rests but no great ones, tons of runners, just slowly ground my way upwards. Never got totally boxed just absolutely drained by it. Totally redlining by the time i hit the last hard moves. But I didn't fall off! First E4!!! seconded Breaking the Barrier to finish which was nice, but no energy really, so glad it wasn't harder. Forearms have never felt so empty. Stoked!
F: Cromlech. The morning after the night before, in climbing terms. Head all over the place, still readjusting, and I felt battered too. So I seconded The Monster, which was fun, and flailed on second on Grond - both E2 but Grond highlighted my inability to jam as there's few other options. I guess maybe I'd have been better trying to layback but I figured I should try and jam it. Fell off the thin hands section at the bottom and my foot pinged off high up too. Debated trying to lead something but came to the conclusion I was letting a fear of failure get in the way, "who wants to fail on Foil" sort of logic. Went to the Grochan and made a half hearted attempt on Slape Direct but gave up, head just not in the right place.
S: Psyche back. Cromlech. Seconded Left Wall to start, freezing hands. Worried about coldness, but figured I'd have a look at Resurrection E4. I think the "well if its freezing ill down climb from the thread" approach removed a lot of the mental pressure. Climbed the bottom really slow, it's quite open so feels exposed and I was puzzling my way through the way ahead. Scary from the girdle ledge into left wall too. Got into the upper crack and got up past the spike at the top. Got a bit stuck, ledge syndrome (not on a ledge, but on some holds I was reluctant to leave) but got some psyche from my audience (Pete Robins and Alex Megos had done the route before us and by that point were abbing post Right Wall) got me moving again. Hands and feet set up for the final long move to the flat hold, and my foot popped! Inches from victory. Surprisingly not really that disappointed, I'd pushed as hard as I could and I'd climbed well to get there, if I did that the whole time I would improve fast, and there wasn't really anything more I could have done, at your limit you can't always be lucky. Awesome experience. Pleased I climbed until I fell, obviously I could have fallen doing the move even if my foot hadn't popped but its good to be able to sit back knowing there's nothing more I could have done and no harder I could have tried. Finger skin destroyed from the pockets and my shoulder muscles on my right shoulder had seized up so much it hurt to turn my head too far. Utterly beasted.
S: London today so a rest day. I need it!

Well, what a week! Some failures for sure but I also did The Moon, and my first E4, and came inches away from another E4. And I learnt a lot about trying bloody hard too. 4 days of trad left, then hopefully someone will take whatever's left of me to Kilnsey on Friday. Then a rest!!
Ally Smith on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Nice write up. Seems to confirm that it was a mental block stopping you from trying E4's, not a lack of ability?

Good luck with the Lakes mission.

P.s. AJM makes a bloody good home brew!
AJM - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Cheers dude, ill save you one from the next batch :)

Yeah I think I've been a bit scared of getting on them because a lot of the local ones, Arms Race etc, ive wanted to do for ages and so there's a pressure there of trying something you've been building up to and you don't want to blow it and so on and that just sort of gets in the way of actually climbing the damned thing! It was good to go on the trip really because it meant I got on stuff that I hadn't necessarily been thinking about because of the crags we ended up at.

If I can distract my head for long enough to just commit to climbing them I reckon that might be the way forwards. That and caring less, if that makes sense - if you care intensely about getting every route onsight it stops you from trying as hard as if you accept that some will inevitably get away from you because that frees you up to just really go for it rather than save everything until you're confident you can do it.

I've been thinking on the train btw, what French grade would you suggest for Penny?
Ally Smith on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Pumpy 'cos you hang around to place the gear, but maybe only F6c? 6c+ tops

Snakebite wall similar, 6c+?

Crossiant 7a/+ and a complete sandbag at E3 6b!
AJM - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to ally smith:

That was where I was guessing too. 6c plus a dose of pump for gear placement/trad faff.

Is that 6c on the same scale as right wall being 6c, which you suggested in your email?
IainRUK - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Still not able to talk freely about my next event.. but training has been good this week.. long term aim remains Berlin Marathon, steady start as had a marathon saturday so needed to recover.

m: 10 mile trail run
t: lunch: 6 mile trail run. pm: 9 miles, with 9 k at 6:30 and 3 k at 6 min mile pace.
w: am: 3 mile run. pm: 10 mile road run
t: lunch: 7 mile road run. pm: 8 miles with track, 4 x 200, 3 x 1k and 2 x 400m.
f: 10.7 miles steady road and trail run
s: 19.2 miles trail run, steady 7:25 pace, just one banana.
s: 17.1 miles trail run, 6:30 pace, no foood or water, hard.

Happy enough, 101 miles in the week following a marathon.. not sure to run another marathon next weekend or a weekend in the mountains getting some hills in..
Joughton on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy,

Good week training wise making the most of time between revising, though it's been absolutely gutting not to get out in the sun! Feeling pretty strong though now, just need a quick bit of endurance work to bring it back to normal (how it was two months ago) and I should be at my peak.

Mon - Bouldering at MCC. Great session, though felt a bit tweaky to start with. Once I'd warmed up I flashed every V4-6 (apart from slipping off the last move of the last one left - is it sad that I was really annoyed!?). Also flashed three of the V6-8 circuit and got four others second go, very pleased.
Tue - rest
Wed - rest
Thurs - Route session at MCC getting fit again, bit dissapointed after feeling strong on monday but I was just getting pumped a bit quick. Still managed to onsight two 7as and a 7b/+ though so not too bad.
Fri - session bouldering at home setting with my new holds, they're awesome! Started off with some short problems then finished with some long circuits. Circuit ~7b, then big rest on jug shaking out, then repeat x3.

Haven't been able to climb this weekend because of travel injections and revision (a terrible combination for morale...) but I've done some antagonistic work to sort out my shoulder which is feeling better.

Busy couple of weeks coming up - I've got three days climbing in Gogarth this weekend, hopefully getting on one of the BIG main wall E5s. Mega-psyched for that, Citadel looks good for me at the moment, well protected with a tricky crux sequence apparently, E5 6b. Also Warpath at Rhoscolyn looks like a fun, pumpy E5, apparently that is also pretty safe and - even better - it's at the bottom of the gradest list!

The week after that I've got the national final of the youth climbing series. After finishing seventh last year, most of the stronger ones were in the older half of my category, who are now too old, so I've got my fingers crossed for a podium finish. It's really the only comp that combines leading and bouldering, and at the moment I'm feeling pretty balanced between the two so it should go well. The hardest route is usually about 7c which I can onsight if it's the right route for me, and I'll just have to make it as far as I can on the boulders.

Jake
Joughton on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Oh and congrats on the first E4 onsight! Sounds like you had a great trip, the Moon looks amazing. Keep going like that all summer and you'll be a trad king by the end of it!
biscuit - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Nice one Andy !


Looks like a good tactic to break into the grade on routes you don't 'care' about. Much less pressure.

M - Multi pitch trad. E1/2. 4 pitches of 8 done before abbing off. Doing a mountain route just after spring that has only had a couple of ascents and a hand drawn topo off the internet = dirty, loose rock, massive spiky bushes and route reading problems ( yes i got lost ). All good fun though and i got to do the hard pitches.
T - Nothing
W - Nothing
T - Nothing - fly to UK
F - 1h30m trying out bike fr tri
S - 1hr cycling round tri course
S - Triathlon - went OK but got 1h 32m so bit gutted not to get sub 1h30m. Got mad cramp in my left calf after the swim and spent a lot of time sorting it. Doing the bike ride on a mountain bike with normal pedals wasn't ideal but the best i could get. I got overtaken by a LOT of people on bikes worth £1000's that weighed less than my handlebars. Lack of bike fitness was the main reason though - no excuses. The run went badly as i only had 1 1/2 legs by then and the cramp was killing me. So i am glad i did it and glad it's over now and i can get back to climbing as a priority.....i may just do one more to get sub 1h30m though.
mrchewy - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit & AJM: Andy - already congratulated you on the E4 but nice work almost getting another. I found the Cromlech the most intimidating place I've ever climbed. Stopping by the Lakes on Friday myself but we'll only be doing some easy multipitch on the way to Scotland. Resurrection I think.

Biscuit - Gutted. Two bloody minutes but I wouldn't worry too much if you were on fat tyres... that's like starting off with your knees tied together. Really good effort! Cramp cost us maybe ten minutes or more in the adventure race last year, so so frustrating. Cross the achievement off the bucket list and get that 8a...
biscuit - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Yeah but 1hr 30m will be so much easier to achieve than 8a ;0)

Meant to say big thanks to Steve and PPG for the bike advice.

I would have been a lot slower without it.
mrchewy - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit: True! If you're 5ft 10ish and 32 inside leg, I've an alright roadbike you could borrow next time...
Jamming Dodger on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Got sent this link today and the four of us are gonna try get them all done by the end of the year.
http://peaktrailrunner.freehostia.com/mambo/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&secti...
It'll keep us out of trouble for a while.
Monday: Already reported on, 10.5 mile fell run round Edale Horseshoe.
Tuesday: 28 mile commute to work.
Wednesday and Thursday, had an EEG stuck to my head so swimming and getting wet in any way was out of the question. Soooo, watched lots of TV and was very very bored. I'd almost (only almost) have preferred to be in work.
Friday: Ran back from the hospital, 8.5 miles.
Saturday: Hungover. Bleurghhh.
Sunday: Ive just got showered after an 8 mile road/trail mixed run. I almost bailed at 7 miles cause I felt something in my calf tweak badly and id kicked a tree root so my left leg took a battering! Any ideas for getting bruises on feet down whilst still being able to wear shoes?
Weight has been stable at 8st12 now for several weeks so im not desperate to lose more so long as I dont gain. Right now keeping an eye on not getting injured or that tick list will go out of the window.
See ya. H
Nick Russell on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Hi all, I haven't posted here before but have had a look at some of the past threads so I think I get the idea. It seems like this is the best place on this site to get some good climbing/training discussion! Being my first post, it may be a bit longer than normal because of background etc. so well done and thanks for reading if you get to the bottom!

I've been climbing 2 1/2 years, mostly outdoor trad and indoor bouldering, but got into winter climbing this season too. I currently have a pretty good success probability on E2, and I'm surprised if I fail on an E1. E3 5c is normally ok, E3 6a normally not. I live in Bristol and don't have a car, so a lot of my climbing is done in Avon gorge/elsewhere locally. Lack of a car is definitely reducing my sport climbing opportunities.

Here's an attempt at stating goals

Ongoing:
make sure I keep up at least 1 fingerboard and/or 1 bouldering session per week so I don't get weak from too much trad.

Short term:
Get some more mileage on E3 6a ground. I'd like to onsight one at some point this summer! Attempt a few E4s (Arms Race and GT Special in the gorge seem like good candidates for accessible and protectable)
Redpoint 7a+. I have onsighted 6c and redpointed 7a, both in El Chorro. I have a candidate for a 7a+ at Cheddar, but as stated before, not much opportunity to get there
Run the Snowdonia marathon. I've entered, it's my first marathon so I'm not too bothered about times (but 3h30m is at the back of my mind). As long as I don't injure myself, completing shouldn't be a problem for me

Medium term:
Get steady at E3. More sport climbing and bouldering should help me crack that 6a technical grade, then it's just a case of getting mileage on different styles, rock types, etc.
"Paradise Lost", Cheddar. I've been inspired by this route since seeing the guidebook photo. This could go into the "short term" section if I was willing to just get on it and work it, but I'm possibly being a bit silly in wanting to wait until there's at least a chance of onsighting it

Long term:
I'll think about this, and maybe put something up in a future post.

My week:
M: Rest after the weekend (North Wales)
T: fingerboard
W: Indoor bouldering
T: 6km run. Ok, it's not much given that I'm training for a marathon, but I'm currently recovering from overtraining last month (shin splints) so I'm bringing it back in slowly.
F: Evening at Cheddar gorge. Had another go at a 7a+ called "Islands in the City", which I last tried last July (and that attempt ended in A&E). Unfortunately I only had time for one lead attempt because it was getting dark and I didn't get it, but it did refresh my memory.
S: Rest
S: Day at Symonds Yat. Cruised a couple of classic HVSs and a nice VS then attempted an E3 6a ("Double Diehard"). Rested at the crux, lacking a bit physically, but more mentally I suspect. Rock was horrendously dirty and vegetated higher up, so not a good experience really.
Nick Russell on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
> Well, what a week! Some failures for sure but I also did The Moon, and my first E4, and came inches away from another E4. And I learnt a lot about trying bloody hard too. 4 days of trad left, then hopefully someone will take whatever's left of me to Kilnsey on Friday. Then a rest!!

Congrats Andy, sounds like an awesome week!

Reading where you are grades-wise, you're not far ahead of me in trad, but miles ahead in sport... Maybe I should be trying harder!
mbh - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

M - 20 mile cycle from Pen y Pass plus 4.5 mile round-trip walk in a very stiff wind to retrieve tent and gear from Llyn Anafon above Aber top car park, at the north end of the Welsh 3000s. Car still there in one piece and tent still attached to the ground, so relieved! We had been very fortunate with the weather over the previous two days.
Tuw - 4 miles in Ludlow, moseying about. Nice place.
Wed - 5 miles along a disused railway track in Harpenden
Thu - 5 miles, same again
Fri - 6.4 miles
Sa - 13.2 miles
Su - 10.0 miles.

Legs ache after the Welsh 3000s and I have been slow all week but I wanted to get the mileage back up immediately. Bubbling around the 8:00 mark.
Exile - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Great week AJM - I'm hoping for my first E4 onsight this summer so good to hear about your experiences.

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

This weeks focus: Enjoying Scotland with the family, rest up, bit of cardio.

Weeks training:

M: 1hr 10min fell run
T: 50min fell run
W: Rest
T: 30min road run
F: 1hr 20MTB ride
S: Driving back from Scotland and sorting kit - Rest
S: Youngest lads birthday - Rest

I also did a lot of Canadian canoeing, a couple of MTB rides and running down, (having walked up,) a good size hill, all at fit 5 and 8 year old lads pace.

Back on the climbing this week.
AJM - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks! Either you need to try harder on sport or I need to try harder still on trad :) How long do you/have you spent on projects in the past? One reason why my redpoint grade outpaces my onsight grade and hence my trad grade is that I spend a moderate amount of time on projects, up to about 5 sessions so far but Right Hand Man is at 4 already I think...

Welcome to FC. I'm basically busy until about June 12th or so but am likely to have lots of free time after that so happy to go out and get on some stuff if you fancy.

In reply to Joughton, biscuit, chewy, Exile et al:

Cheers guys!
grubes - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy nice meeting you Friday and Saturday

Special congrats to Needkraken, Exile, AJM, Luke Owens, Useful and curious yellow on project tickage and grade push

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (323) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=550955

Grubes - You fat tw*t
Needkraken - Well done on your first Severe
Stevemarkperry - Well done on a 6A+ flash
Daniel Heath - how did you do in the comp
AJM - Well done on the E4 good effort on ressurection. Well done on the other E4
IainRUK - well done in the race
Exile - well done on Ivy League
Northern Clamberer - good luck with the PHD is that why you are down in bradford soon
Luke Owens - nice one time for something harder?
Joughton - sounds like some classic ticks there
useful - well done on the E1 Did I see you yesterday? we were just racking up for cemetary gates and a two guys were off to do flying buttress there first multipitch
Eagle River - its clear what you need to do. Climb more and at different venues
Leon - sounds an awesome day at black crag!
Jimmykay - Boom Well done on the south coast nice seeing you today
Jamming dodger - welcome back glad you feel better
curious Yellow - unlucky on SS well done on the 7b+'s
Si dH - nice one on getting solid at E3
Ali - Well done on SS
Nomics4sale - sounds a solid week
Porkpiegirl - hope you feeling better
Sankey - sounds like good training even if the ticks did not come
Steve John B - nice mileage
Quiddity - could the hold be glued?
Ally smith - nice seeing you today. Awesome week of crush hope the weekend went well
Biscuit - how was the tri?
maria85 - Well done on direct route that 5b move is a killer. Did you get on an E1?
Mattrm - congrats on the weight
MBH - well done on the 3000's
NMN - sounds an awesome week
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Hiya,

thanks the Comp was ok. I came 3rd and won a harness, which is nice.

M-3 mile run, easy pace
T-
W-RAF Comp
T-30min session then sacked it off. More tired than I thought I was!
F-
S-Raven Tor
S-Chee Dale

The comp was like this:
-7b+ Toprope qualifier (there were other qualifiers but by trying the 7b_ I didn't have to try the others). I fell off the last move which was encouraging.
-7a Lead Semi Final. I came joint 1st in this - suited my style being somehow delicate but on big holds.
-7c(or harder) Final. This was dissapointing. It was set with a hard move at the 3rd clip. everyone fell off pretty much the same place, except for 1st and 2nd place climbers, who got a few moves further. Doesn't make for a great competition but nevermind.

Weekend sport on Limestone:
Fell off a lot but getting some good onsighting experience on powerful cruxy sport routes. Feel like I'm close to getting 7c RP in a day. Unfortunately I found the right routes at the end of the day this weekend, so only got 1 RP attempt at each 7c.

So not good for my logbook but great for route climbing experience and I feel like I'm building up to some good ticks.

Hovering at 63.5kg with a couple of bad days again this week. Aiming for sub 63.0 again by Sunday.

Goals
62.0 kg
7b Onsights
7c in a day
Lots of trad plans but I'll keep them quiet for now ;)

Many thanks
Dan
NorthernClamberer - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Thanks AJM and Grubes!

STG: Get outside as much as possible (fat chance). Have the opportunity to lead as many VDiffs etc as I can find. OS 5+ outside without fear!
MTG: OS 6a. Get a solid load of trad under the belt. Lose two stone.
New MTG - second the Old Man of Hoy, perhaps before I leave here.... I'd quite like to kayak in, climb up and kayak home again. Ha ha ha.
LTG: OS 6b. Lead HVS. Second some totally awesome multipitch.

Yep, despite my hamfisted last minute, scrabbling around application and hunt for degree transcripts that I have lost, they appear to want to interview me, hence the upcoming trip to Bradford. I used to live there, the PhD study area is the Dales and there is lots of rock. All good things I think! But we'll just have to see, not had much luck with interviews of late!

So generally it was a very poor show this week and I hang my head in shame and am now going to go and stand over in the Fit Club naughty corner. Too much working late, too tired, too much going on, too busy to do much. Lack of outside partners again..... :-(

However, I did manage to get out today with the club, back to the place we were at a few weeks ago. More new routing. I took the fear and got the total pump on my last lead though as the gear ran out and the climbing became more tricky. It was about a 15 foot run out to the top. No ta. Not onsighting anyway! I asked for a top rope, but at least I tried.

Weight watching/food diary continues and I think there is a definite downward slow but stead trend to be observed.

I will try to do better next week. I am already being shouted at for missing indoor club sessions, although who really wants to climb inside when you could be out and to be honest, I am enjoying a break from pressuring myself at the wall. Looking forward to my grit mission in a couple of weeks though! Whoop whoop!

Mary


Daniel Heath - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Big week, and 17 miles without food or water sounds uncomfortable to say the least
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to Jamming Dodger:

That looks like a nice goal, have fun ticking them all off.

Well done with the weight management.
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Good effort with the Triathlon and all the training it required in the build up. Have fun climbing now!
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

great effort with the E4! Also well done for getting on Resurrection and climbing till you fell off. As you say that's much better than wimping out.

I can't believe you had the worlds best onsighter and the Welsh Wad Pete Robins watching you from Right Wall!
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

By the way has anyone seen Jimmy Kay's logbook this week ;)
IainRUK - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit: Good one.. keep thinking of Tris but think thats post running plan...

For now its 100% on running but once I stop improving at that I'll add bike and swim.. make a tad more interesting..

Aye Dan.. it was hard.. running with a mate from africa, class runner, he never eats, did that run off one banana for breakfast.. reckons we don't need so much.. I'm not convinced.. I was in pieces by mile 15..
Eagle River - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Well done Andy!
Eagle River - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

When you say different venues you mean Kilnsey, right??

Goals: Biological Need, have a look at Dead Calm, The Ashes and The Bulge

Tues: indoor routes with someone whose belaying I irrationally don't trust (it's perfectly safe, I'm just a coward with people belaying who I know haven't climbed that long). So did some leading and some top roping, including flashing a 7b+ on top rope.

Sat: Kilnsey. In my quest to sample lots of kilnsey routes before settling on the next project I tried Dominatrix. Jesus, that's steep. Absolutely mega route but intimidating and completely away from my comfort zone. Had one go on Biological Need and a "shouldn't have bothered" go on Subculture at the end of the day.

Sun: Kilnsey. Back on Biological need, really like it. Put the clips up then had two lead attempts, bolt to bolting really, figuring out sequences. Think I've got something that'll work so next time i'm there I should be on redpoints.

So much at Kilnsey to look at and all long, hard routes. Planning on spending as much time as possible there as it's style is so different to Malham it'll take some work to get used to.
biscuit - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

I am intrigued by your target you can't speak about.

Not sure about interesting. I enjoyed the swim - but not the swim training - and the nike i hated training and the race.

Great experience and i didn't really train much for it apart from the last month or so so it's totally my fault.

Got a 55km 3000m ascent trail run i'm going for in October and then i'm going to do the 88km version next year. No bikes is the way ahead for me, they're torture.
NMN - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes & AJM.

Another poor running week.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.

M: - on holiday.
T: - 1.61m hills, 907ft.
W: - trad coaching session.
T: – 1.51m hills, 899ft.
F: - 1.58m hills, 908ft.
F: - Stanage High Neb routes.
S: - nothing (lots of work).
S: - nothing (lots of work).
Si dH - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy, and Grubes.
As I said on Facebook mate, well done, great trip - but I didn't know you'd failed to second Grond! You really need to learn to jam :) HVS in the Peak.

Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 4 E2s, 2 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 10 E2s, 5 E3s in 2013 (so far 1 E2, 3 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)
Overall that would be 91 E-points...let's chuck in 9 E1s and make it 100 :)

Sport: 2 7b+s to keep my hand in, ideally Brachiation Dance and Space Race but I'm not holding myself to those - too conditions, travel and partner-dependent.

M: Chee Tor, see last week
T: Rest
W: Nothing
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Did most of the new set of problems.
F: Nothing - early start and long drive to Kent for wife's grandma's funeral. Pretty crap day.
S: Nothing - long drive home. Totally knackered for some reason, went to bed at 930pm.
S: Good, fairly relaxed day at Shining Clough, a crag which I'd somehow managed to never go to before. Seconded Pheonix Climb VS, led East Rib HVS, Pisa Superdirect HVS, Galileo E1 and Yerth E2. Some really good classic routes. Somehow managed to fall off the starting crack on Galileo first time around - went fairly easily when I sorted a sensible sequence out instead of climbing like a prat. Yerth was good and seemed fairly steady.

1st wedding anniversary next weekend so climbing is taking a back seat, but will try to get some training done in the week. Then the week after is the supposed Malham trip?

Cheers, Si
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:

This time last year we climbed at Chee Dale just before your wedding. It's cool to see that one year on marriage has not seemed to slow your climbing, and you seem to have done a lot more on trad.
Si dH - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan! I think relationships and climbing can work fine as long as you have a reasonable routine and set of unspoken rules you work to that both of you are happy with. In my case my other half is a keen writer so she likes a day at the weekend without me to allow her to get on with that, which helps. I'm trying to really focus more on trad this year after not doing so much for the last couple.
What did you get on Chee dale by the way?
Daniel Heath - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:

That sounds like it works very well then :)

I fell off a lot, but got Blockhead first RP today. In the back of my mind I remember that you did it really quickly on your second day, so I felt some pressure to remember all the beta and smash it out!

Si dH - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
:)
Ye I did it first go when I went back. I had the advantage of going back while I still remembered all the moves so well I would probably have done most of them in my bedroom that morning though. 'Tis a good route.
mattrm - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes. Think I'm going to give the Malham meet a miss, as it seems daft to go up there (as it's not cheap) to really struggle.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st
3 core/yoga, 1 climb, 1 run, eat well, fingerboard (2/3, yes, no, yes, no) - same goals for next week

Weight - 11st 13lbs (1lbs gain)

M - T - Rest
W - Yoga
T - Core
F - Climbing
S - DIY (digging big holes)
S - DIY

Actually went climbing this week. Bit of a shock that. Loaded lots of expectations about leading VS onto myself as a result. And then wussed out. And then soloed a E1. Go figure. However it's a boulder start E1. So like a V0+ then a VDiff. Really ought to be something like VDiff 5a. Tho if that's a 5b move, then I'm a monkey's uncle. Seconded a couple of VSes, so that was good. Ate fairly badly, but didn't put on much. Was hoping to get out a bit this week as the weather forecast is good. However the wife's gym streak is continuing, so I don't have the car, so no climbing.
mattrm - on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Nope, not seen it? Linky?

IainRUK - 19 miles on a banana? I guess once you're used to it, might be a goer. I tell my sister similar stuff about running shorter distances and not needing much water or gels, but she thinks I'm nuts as well...

AJM - E4? I'm impressed. Keep it up. Been meaning to email you, I should be able to wangle a day off mid-week soon, maybe we could meet up and climb?
leon on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
Nice one on the e4s, especially Resurrection, it sounds nails.
leon on 02 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
STG: No top roping unless I cannot (because I keep falling) bolt to bolt.
MTG: 15 epoints in june
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(0)
Focus: Strength(3/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF, using core to reduce strain on fingers (maybe), not search for the best sequence when redpointing.

Mon: Arc(30 mins).Repeaters.
Tue: Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
Wed: Bouldering pyramids (V4 to V8).
Thu: Core. Push-ups(111), Pull-ups(45), Back(weights).
Fri: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3).
Sat: Nothing.
Sun: Gogarth (2*e3)

A great week really. Training went well & managed to onsight most of the pyramid on Wednesday (taking only 2 gos on the others), went on to add 4 problems of pyramid number 2.

Sunday was amazing. Did The Moon & The Assasin. The Moon was awesome.
JimmyKay - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

M – Lakes Bouldering! (2 v8’s both second go)

T – Rest Day!!!

W – Woke up feeling very ill. Weather looked crappy. Decided to have a bit of a lie. Still managed to make it to Anstey’s by around 2. The weather was gorgeous in Torbay. I warmed up by running up a 6c. The draws were already in on Cider Soak but there were lots of people trying it. I bided my time before having a quick dog up to remember the moves. Everything felt good. Still felt pretty run down but conditions dropped and the temperature was perfect so I gave it a go. Screwed up the bottom section. Damn. I had another play on the moves and another long rest. Gave it another blast. Found myself on the last move. Went big. Too big. Completely missed the top hold by going about a foot too far…? Damn. The rain came in and my skin was shredded. Not to worry, the route is so good I didn’t mind having to come back on another trip for it.

T – Wow. The weather was sooo good. Must have been 25degrees in the sun (I have the tan to prove it) My skin was awful. Still thin from Carrock Fell boulders. Shall I have a rest day? Didn’t climb until about 2 when I was drawn in to climbing a fun looking 7b slab. Managed it second go. Skin was pretty saw and it was so warm. Went for a walk down to the cove café and had an ice-cream an a tea. When I got back my partner convinced me to at least have a play on the moves of cider soak. I resentfully agreed despite my fingers needing the skin to regenerate. Ran up the route and put all the draws in. Surprisingly I felt really strong on all of the moves. Decided to give it a redpoint after a 15 minute rest. I found myself at the last move again. This time I latched the top with ease. Absolutely cruised it. It felt brilliant. What a route.

F – Torbryan. Chilled out and had a mileage day at Torbryan. I Flashed Barney Rubble as a warm-up and then flashed thread Flintstone. I managed to squeeze in Little White Lies before it got too hot to climb. Ended up stopping off at Cheddar on the way home and playing on Get that Man. Did it second go. Wasn’t a fan of Cheddar to be honest!

S – Rest day

S – Weird day. Made the mistake of heading to Pigeon’s Cave instead of LPT. Played around on the starting jugs for a while before sacking it off as the rest of the routes (which my partners were trying) were shit. They went and messed about on some crappy blank slabby stuff so I decided to go for an ice-cream. Stopped off in Parisella’s on the way back and felt as though Left Wall High was a doer. It was 4. After dropping the crux and some helpful beta from Cave Strong’un’s I managed to link it all. Psyched, that’s been on the list for years. Finished the day off by O/S / flashing Bloodsports on Mayfair. Pretty cool day.

With regards to the Cider Soak. I didn’t want it to be a battle to the top. I wanted to absolutely cruise it. I was so psyched with the ease of which I climbed it when it went. I felt so solid at the top. Every move felt perfect. I never felt like I was going to fall off. What a feeling.

Half-term routes (trip to Lakes, Devon and Llandudno)

Bouldering: 7C x 2; 7B+ x 1; 7B x 3; 7A+ x 3; 7A x 4

Sport: 8a x 1; 7b x 3; 7a+ x 3

PS I dedicate this week to PPG who inspired me to get my game on.
Eagle River - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Holy crap Jimmy, strong trip!
AJM - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Awesome week dude bit since it was half term week I think you breached the access agreements by being on get that man - the right hand side of the road is closed during half term.
AJM - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:

I thought you might latch onto that...

Having not dome any serious time on grit or other crack intensive venues since graduating (from where I've lived, why would I?) its hardly a surprise is it? Like I said if I'd laybacked at the bottom I might have had more joy on the lower section but you only learn by trying and all that, thin jams like that are one of my many areas of weakness.

THe problem, incidentally, with saying It's peak hvs is that when you compare it to things like gnr and bond street which i did not too long ago it becomes apparent that it's cobblers! ;) I'm sure there's something in your little book of sandbags that is as hard as grond but grond representative of peak hvs, I struggle with that...
AJM - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to leon, Dan, Steve etc:

Cheers guys

In reply to grubes:

Good to put another name to face, hope you had a good day after we last saw you, plus Sunday down at ppt too.

In reply to mattrm:

Cheers Matt. Yeah that would be fun. I'm out of circulation with tradtrip round 2 and then a wedding until about the 12th or so, but assuming things stay as they are midweek after that could work.

JimmyKay - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Shit the bed... Really? Nightmare. We didn't have a guidebook and just looked at somebody else's quickly before getting on it. I wish I'd stayed in the traffic jam on the M5 to be honest.
grubes - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy


STG (July 2013):
Sort out Squamish accomadation
Top out a tower
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Climb on the cromlech - Tick
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
E3/4
Plan a font trip - 2x currently planning

This Weeks Goals:
Trad - Tick

M: Stanage High Neb - Lead a VS onsight and VD repeat. SEconded a S was knackered and windy and other excuses
T: Rest
w: Rokt - Mainly circuit board bit of bouldering ending with long core session
T: Rest
F: Drive to Nant Peris
Cromlech Boulders. Flashed a 5 and a 6A.
Saw AJMs van said hello.
dropped the last move of a 6A+ on the flash then repeatedly. went to the pub
S: Morning.
Cromlech - Saw AJM again belaying his mate on left wall.
Seconded Cemetary gates great route and soft. Good first E1?
Managed to pull my ropes down on Pete Robins head.
Cenetaph corner looked wet and had a group on so I Lead Noahs warning (VS in guide HVS on here) swapping leads.
Then headed down due to dampness and how busy it was.
Slate quarries next. Lead looning the tube (E1/HVS) Felt E1 5b to me not the HVS 5b in the new guide or E1 5a on here.
S: Cromlech boulders. Loads of V0's. Tried a V3 dropped the last move several times.
tried a few move on Jerry's
LPT
Lead a 6a onsight. Tried under the boardwalk again placing draws on lead again. dropping the top move again. Stripped the route again.
Met ally Smith belayed him on a couple of routes to warm up.
Parisella's
Went to mess about in the Cave.
Saw Jimmy Kay.
Fell off the pillar start abit.
Drove home.

Next week goals:
Trad
Big Routes

All in all a great weekend. Some classic ticks. Took lead falls. Met loads of fit clubbers. Felll well and truely defeated!
grubes - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
Well yes kilnsey but also Yew cogar and CHS
AJM - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Double check the RAD but yeah I'm pretty sure the whole rhs as you go up the hill is closed for May half term.

What didn't you like about it?
AJM - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Just been told apparently it was a different Alex, Austrian guy. It was definitely Pete though :)
grubes - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to mattrm:
Well done on the E1
grubes - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
I was gonna say he looked abit different to the picks on here. He was strong as though
grubes - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to AJM)
> Half-term routes (trip to Lakes, Devon and Llandudno)
>
> Bouldering: 7C x 2; 7B+ x 1; 7B x 3; 7A+ x 3; 7A x 4
>
> Sport: 8a x 1; 7b x 3; 7a+ x 3

you seemed pretty nonchalant about your week yesterday wow! what a tick list
JimmyKay - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

It was far too British for my liking. I'd just come back from Costa del Anstey.

Maybe in the right mood with Cheddar psyched climbers I'd enjoy it more.
grubes - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
Okay here is a list of stat writers for June.
9/6 : Eagle river
16/6 : Grubes
23/6 : Eagle river
30/6 : Grubes

Please can some one do it in July?
I can do the whole of august but definately not in September.

Thank you to all those that have done and offer to do the stats it takes time and effort to write. Espcially those that did it for a long period (biscuit, AJM, Daniel Heath, Shark).
IainRUK - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to NMN:
> (In reply to grubes)
>
> Thanks grubes & AJM.
>
> Another poor running week.
>
> Running goals:
> Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
> Edale Skyline - 4h.
> Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
> Half Marathon - 1h 25m.
>

Half Marathon and Snowdon are normally within 1-2 minutes of each other.. my pb's are 1:15:09 and 1:15:20..

Most people are a minute either side too...

Nick Russell on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
> How long do you/have you spent on projects in the past?

I think Arabesque (my only 7a so far) at El Chorro went on my fourth attempt and Mirage in the gorge was on the fifth (though the first two of these were half-hearted top-dogging so possibly don't count). Both times I loved the feeling when it all went together on the successful try! In any case, I suppose I haven't really got into working projects yet.

> Welcome to FC. I'm basically busy until about June 12th or so but am likely to have lots of free time after that so happy to go out and get on some stuff if you fancy.

Yeah, that would be great. I'll be in touch by e-mail some time mid-June. (It would have been sooner, but I had some pretty big disruption at home and it looks like you've not been spending much time in the SW recently anyway)

pork pie girl - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit: well done for getting the tri done and it doesn't sound like you're too far off your goal..bet it feels nice not to have the pressure of having one to do now? do you still dislike cycling as much as you did?
ads.ukclimbing.com
pork pie girl - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit: did you do the tri on a road bike (just wondering about mrchewy's comment re fat tyres?) i wouldn't worry too much about very expensive/fanciful bikes in comparisoon to an entry level road bike being a massive factor.. like you say it's about getting used to the bike fitness..

let us know if you fancy a multi activity day when you're next over... malham a.m followed bu hill climbs on bikes from malham to settle and back again etc.. good mix with an ice cream at the end! (and chips) .. i mean a protein shake and a lettuce leaf
AJM - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

I knew he had been around, saw a strong Germanic type with photographers in tow and made the leap! Oops

my know about July, once I get home I might have a better idea of calendar, should be in the UK at least though.
pork pie girl - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: jimmykay big guns!! that's more like it Grrrrrrr!!!
NMN - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to NMN)
> [...]
>
> Half Marathon and Snowdon are normally within 1-2 minutes of each other.. my pb's are 1:15:09 and 1:15:20..
>
> Most people are a minute either side too...


Thanks for that Iain, that's amazing, looks like my goals are way out of line.
The half marathon target is based (from a calculator thing) on my only ever road race of 38:17 10k.
(I have entered a half in December)

It is not the way I would like it but I seem to be a better road runner than fell / hill runner. Although, the goals seem to be so far apart from what you say that maybe I am not trying hard enough off road?

The 1:35 Snowdon target is a good 8 mins quicker than my previous best!
Needkraken - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Thanks Grubes, AJM and everyone really, posting on here is definitely keeping me motivated and wanting to push, that and everyone seems to have awesome adventures. The S I did last Sunday was quite a bit of effort I was absolutely terrified (ask Grubes he heard the gibbering) but it was worth it!

After starting well the week kind of trickled down due to other commitments and issues getting people to come climb with me =(

STG - boulder more 6a's , get more confident outdoors, keep the psyche, second whatever my friends climb & lead every session I can
MTG - 6b sport, lead S by choice , get psyche to lead routes I chose
LTG - to feel I can push myself on lead, be stronger, find routes I really want to do

M: Trad at Stanage, seconded VS and VD, then chose to lead a S over a VD felt totally secure and had fun (I like slabs), led the VD after as well
T: Rest day (spent mostly looking at gear on the internet)
W: Indoor session, mostly repeats couple more V2/3ish ticks and did a bit of core at the end
T: Ate pizza, bought gear
F: Had plans to go local bouldering by bus, partners bailed and everyone else had weekend plans so were lame, ended up in the pub looking whistfully at the sky
S: Down in London
S: Had a bandstand gig at 2 so meant I couldn't get out before or after

This week I am planning to get in at least my usual 3 sessions, a little bit annoyed I couldn't follow up the start of this week with a good finish but it happens. Need to keep up the psyche when people bail and do core/stretching instead of drinking!
useful on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes: Ah, I wondered if that was you! Yes, that was me with the Red Paramo and Ecrin helmet matching combo and a completely unscratched shiny new rack! I'd already asked a few people if they posted on UKCFC and too many had said 'no', so I'd stopped :)

Update tonight... although we certainly had an Adventure (with a capital A!).
pork pie girl - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

sunday-gym- a.m int training on bike... ouch... weights. pull ups, core. started eating a banana between the cardio and the weight training to prevent me passing out with hunger.

mon-malham and turbo..warm up on consenting better (no ear infection so better balance) managed crux move on lead on mescalito after a bit of fuss, couldn't link it from bottom though but getting closer, fell of next bulge in lead. felt average after this

tues-rest day (didn't want to but thought i should)

wed-gym- int training on bike (scoffed banana) weights. pull ups, core

thurs-malham - seepage on first overlap of project.. led the bits that i could and TR'd a three times. not much progress. Hill climbs on bike from malham - lancliffe, back over tops towards malham, back to l;angcliffe, the giggleswick, pucnture at the top of last hill.. but sarah in van at the bottom drinking lager in a deck chair. picnic on the way home :o)))))

fri-a.m turbo trainer in garage for 45 mins.. at about 80% as didn't wnat to knacker myself for climbing, p.m malham.. sack on shit on project, did look at top wall but felt disheartened with general performance, attitude and lack of strength (not to self: climbing whilst sulking isn't a good way of being positive)

sat- longer bike ride 50 miles with lots of hills.. fuelled with jam sandwiches

sun- malham a.m.. much better session.. almost didn't dog consenting for my warm up... but decide dto rest on last bolt 'because it is a warm up afterall' will get over this though. project wnet loads better... almost led through from second bolt to fifth but fell on the last move of the crux..feel alot stronger on this now though so just a matter of time in terms of power endurance i reckon. got it second go, retsed at fifth bolt as have struggled with this next move .. got it first go, clipped the rest up with stick, started to work top wall properly for first time.. it's very technical and could easily be buggered up but i think it's doable for me if i make the very most of the rest at the ledge (A. if i ever get to the ledge and B. if i allow myself to relax enough on a horrid ledge with horrid holds to rest)

p.m plan was hill climbs on bike but went on turbo in garage whilst lasagne was in the oven and watched football (well prentended to .. was actually visualising moves on mescalito)

plan for project this week.. if i'm feeling good..lead up the third bulge and on to the ledge, possibly lead some of top wall. try and link more on top rope.. i.e. through first overlap.. at least slap the hold on the second overlap rather than slumping before trying

might do a long ride up in the lakes.. that 6 pass climb thing.. in the north lakes...

PPG

PPG
Nomics4sale - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

cheers grubes/AJM.

Nice one AJM with the E4 lead. And The Moon, I quite fancy that at some point. Sounds a bit scary mary! I'd offer to partner up on Friday but I'm taking Thursday off this week, hopefully at Trow Gill. Might be at Chapel Head on Tues if you're around that way.

biscuit: well done getting the tri done, that multipitch day sounds good too. Adventurous.

northernclamberer: Are you new routing with your club? No wonder you get a bit pumped. It's an awesome effort to give it a go. Very exciting!

STG (Summer 2013): 7b at Malham or Kilnsey, trad E1s and look at E2.
MTG (Autumn 2013): Something good in Spain, maybe 7a flash or 7b RP.
LTG (2014): lots of E2s, maybe look at E3 and RP 7b+.

Mon: 10 mile trail run, 325m ascent. Torridon, behind Meall Dearg & Spidean.
Tues: nowt
Wed: Malham, lead dog Sycophants 7a.
Thurs: 6.2 mile trail run, 420m ascent, Pendle Hill.
Fri: Kilnsey, WYSIWYG dry! 2 RP goes but no joy.
Sat: Trow Gill, onsight 6a and 6b+, then another lead 6b+ second go. Just got going then time was called.
Sun: 10 mile trail run Pendle Hill, 520m ascent.

Slightly pissed off that I didn't get either Syccophants or WYSIWYG this week. But on the upside, I did at least get on the sharp end at Malham. My first go at leading anything there since I broke my leg there 5 years ago. The leg break more or less stopped me climbing for 3 years cos of endless operations and I think as a result I get a bit wierd about Malham. I was a bit wobbly on Sycophants but so what. It's progress.

Likewise I was pissed off to not get WYSIWYG as it felt pretty steady on my 2nd go. Just missed the jug at the top. Oh well, nearly there.
mattrm - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

I'd love to say it's one of those routes I can take the tick on, but I either did the wrong thing, or the grading was crap.

I'm actually targetting Cemetary Gates as my first E1. I want it to be something decent.

Also, I'll do Fit Club in July. I'm in Pembroke one weekend, so it'll be late that day (7th), but happy to do it the rest of the month.

AJM - Sounds good. I can be quite flexible about my days off (only need to give the boss a few days notice, so we'll pick a nice day).

JimmyKay - nice work on Cider Soak. You'll be onsighting 8a soon I reckon!
Sankey - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Great work on the E4!

Back to Chapel this weekend, lead the 7a from last weekend, started working another 7a and a 6c (which felt hard)

M:(bank hol, Kilnsey)
T:
W:
T: Bouldering @ Matrix
F:
S: Lead War Hero (7a-soft maybe), Working Bleep and Booster
S: Working Interstellar Overdive (6c)
M:

STG: More 7a's (2 so far)

MTG: 7a+ Appetite

LTG: 7b I guess, why not!
Ally Smith on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Hiya - it was me in the cave with Rich; i was the one intrigued by your quick sequence through the middle of LWH.

It's considered f8a/+ as a sport grade and you absolutely smashed it in. Sounds like Cider Soak went down easy too.

Time to get yourself an 8b project!?

The best bit of Stiff Upper Lip is the top half - bottom is scrittly jugs that have snapped and dumped me back on the beach before; best off pre-clipping the first bolt.
grubes - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to mattrm:
Its a discribed as a bold start but completely safe with clever gear placments, then it eats gear. Steep juggy clumbing on positive holds. just need to keep moving and placing gear. The upper arete is great fun too.

The first E1 does not have to be a good tick. Its a nice stepping stone. Take the grade for confidence and push on.
Quiddity - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Cheers for doing the stats grubes. Nice one AJM and Jimmykay and anyone else I have missed with the crushage.

> could the hold be glued?

Sadly not, it was a really small hold to begin with, just a little bit of encrusted flowstone. There was a little thumb catch on the top of it that was critical to me being able to hang/pull on the hold. It crumbled a tiny bit under too much foot pressure but now the thumb catch is gone. I don't think it could be repaired without making a real mess, due to the nature of the hold, repairing it would basically involve covering it in sika - as the route is basically 3 hard moves that revolve around that hold so any kind of improvement will change the character of the route quite a lot. It's quite a minor route and not worth making a mess over.


Failed to get to the wall this week but good weekend. Felt good to complete a redpoint, not done any for ages, nice to know I still remember how to do it.

STG
weight back to 65kg.
tick a 7 on west coast sea cliffs tick

MTG
back to onsighting 7a/+ and RP 7b/+ (specific routes TBC)

Current avrg weight: 67.7kg
M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Wallsend - RPd Troll Team Special (7a+/b) 3rd go. Brilliant route, feels good to be getting back in the game. V psyched for this crag right now.
S: Battleship - another day working the moves on Zinc Oxide. Got all the moves down and was given beta for a steadier sequence on the last hard move which feels like it is at least feasible at the end of a lot of hard climbing, unlike my previous slap-wildly-for-shit-crimps method. No real point continuing to work it now without committing to doing it.
JimmyKay - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Hey, you were looking well strong on the lip problems. I also think I need to spend a session trying all of those knee bars out - that seems like a session its own right.

In reply to the middle sequence - That's my style all over. Climb as quickly as possible through the hard stuff. Ha. Still need to work on climbing efficiently rather than quickly.

I want to tick off the remaining routes on my list (Thumb, Mussel Beach, Elite, Raindogs) but am well psyched for getting on some harder routes. Tuppence and Postman Pat look slick at Anstey's. Any suggestions?
Ally Smith on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Right wall is a very similar difficulty to Penny/Katana/Snakebite wall, just more run-out & you need to keep your head together for longer. Should be on your list of goals to tick off before the end of the summer i reckon?

Another hectic week; not much training but had very busy/productive weekend to make up for it.

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond

MTG (Spring 2013) - Build a pyramid of 8a/8a+'s and top it with an 8b or two, namely;
Melan-copout, Bad melans, Melanbeach, Para-trooper & Battle (original method) at LPT and one or two of:
Melanchollie at LPT
Insomnia at Dinbren
SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me.
Stolen at Kilnsey

STG - minor update
Priorities:
- Finger re-hab; getting there
- Shoulder/elbow physio; tackling the cause of my elbow pains, not the symptoms
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) back up to 75.8kg and and 6.7%

The week just gone:

M - as per last week: "went to food festival and then spent 4 hours going through late partners personal bank records and university notes. A lot harder emotionally than i expected. Beer, steak, wine & choc tart for dinner; fatty fatty!"
T - Foot-on campus session. 6x 110s on, 190s off. Starting to feel easier so need to up the intensity/duration.
W - Work BBQ; despise these kind of events normally, but needed to ingratiate myself with potential new boss.
T - Another rest day.
F - Really good cave session; dropped LF sans pocket at last move, thrice.
S - Late start, then Holyhead Mtn. First trad since Oct? E2 and 3x E4s; pumpier than expected due to ineptitude at placing gear quickly. E3 6b Crossiant was hardest thing by far; solid E4 6b IMHO.
S - Felt sore, but after fixing bike went out to LPT. Warm-ups, then failed completely to top rope Statement, so very surprised how well cave went afterwards. Worked out new beta for potential V11/12 tick :-) Short run when i got home to try and keep blood going and avoid DOMS. Fail - back legs and arms hurt badly this morning.
Ally Smith on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

> I want to tick off the remaining routes on my list (Thumb, Mussel Beach, Elite, Raindogs) but am well psyched for getting on some harder routes. Tuppence and Postman Pat look slick at Anstey's. Any suggestions?

The Thumb and Raindogs are quality. Elite trashes skin and mussel beach is so so in my opinion.

Statement is brilliant and would suit your stamina.

GBH at Malham would be a good step up to 8a+ in a similar style.

Needkraken - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:
> Looking forward to my grit mission in a couple of weeks though! Whoop whoop!
>

I'm getting excited, am gonna have a look over guidebooks/venues this week =)

IainRUK - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to NMN: Maybe, snowdon is essentially a road race.. its a pure assessment of fitness.

So going up shouldn'y vary much between people, coming down its technical enough to make a difference, but not by much.

Even the road runners who run 66-67 for half a marathon will be down sub 70 normally.

Look at your summit splits. I'm up in 51 down in 24.. ascent should be around double your descent.. maybe just over, but I'm a stronger descender than climber.
JimmyKay - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Elite is merely a putting old demons to rest tick.
pork pie girl - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: hey don't be top peeved... you're so close to tocking both routes... that's just exciting.. getting closer and closer :OD
stevemarkperry - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Super-congrats on the E4 onsite. A massive achievement, one that I have no idea how to comprehend. Very well done.
stevemarkperry - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Well done mate, you must be very happy to come so close to your goal time -- yet frustrated not to beat it! It looks like it all came together pretty well in the end, yet you say no more cycling?
stevemarkperry - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to:

Cheers for starting the topic and for the stats, always encouraging to keep improving.

Another bit of a weird week for me. I'm at the tipping point of having so much freelance work on that I'm struggling to cope with also working full time. I really can't complain but something must give as I'm not focusing on my climbing / mountain biking goals, I appear to be just ticking over.

I also had best man duties to contend with this week so most of my focus was on that, and remembering my speech. A great day had by all and what lovely weather for it, too.

So onwards with the battle of work vs freelance vs climbing / biking. Hoping for a better week this week.

Goals:
Consolidate seconding experience (trad) including some mountain multi-pitch.
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!).
Keep consistent mileage on the mountain bike each week.
Learn to ski.

If anyone is interested in how I beat, and still working with, my fear of heights and falling, I have written quite a lot about it on my blog. This post pretty much sums it up: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/fear-of-heights-conquered/ and this one adds to it: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/my-pledge/

This Week:
M:
T:
W:
T: Short but fun mountain bike ride
F:
S: Wedding
S: 12km mountain bike ride
Nomics4sale - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Cheers PPG. Yep progress. Get you leading the crux move of mesc! Whole route next!
Nomics4sale - on 03 Jun 2013
mrchewy - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to mattrm: Cemetary Gates - for a first E1, it's not too bad for gear but it is a long way up if you do it in one pitch. Over 50m of vertical, so you do need a bit of PE and general stamina. I'd had a long day at Gogarth the day before and it spat me off on second more than once, I just didn't have it in my arms.
I wanted a nice route for my first E1 but to be honest, there's a lot to be said for what grubes and AJM have both said - there's less pressure on something you don't care about, get the tick and move on. I'd have saved Cemetary Gates for an onsight when I was comfy at the grade but I've already blown that.

Nice work on the E1 anyway. Ask yourself how many times you've been sandbagged on a VDiff and take the tick...
thebigfriendlymoose - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
....then hopefully someone will take whatever's left of me to Kilnsey on Friday. Then a rest!!

Don't suppose you need a partner? I have days off that need using and am keen to spend them at Kilnsey or Chapel Head. I live in Ilkley and would be happy to pick-up from anywhere in that neck of the woods.
Curious Yellow - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

AJM and JimmyKay - fantastic :-)
Nomics - good effort at Malham, I find it really hard to make myself get on lead there.

Mon - Malham. Clipsticked up Space Race. Very keen to try it properly but I need to do Something Stupid first!
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Portland, Wallsend. TRed Troll Team Special (7a+/b), bit of a mini-meltdown because it's a bit steep and I'm used to vertical. But once I relaxed a bit, the climbing is fine and really fun - on RP next time I'm down there.
Sun - Portland, Battleship. Back on Zinc Oxide Mountain (7b+). It's coming together but I don't feel like I can do the crux when I'm pumped...
JimmyKay - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

I have no motivation at all for work or climbing. (It's the first day back.)

Shall I book accommodation for Torquay this evening and head to Anstey's for the weekend? Knowing that it'll be two very hot days.

What should I climb? The classic 7c+'s? Another 8a? Or something harder Tuppence/Postman Pat? - I guess I'm a little intimidated by the hard routes.

Sorry for the Monday night blues. I'm just a little unsure where to direct my efforts at the moment. (Foundations/Cement/Advance?)

Or should I go somewhere else?
grubes - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
book a flight,
throw a Sicky Friday and Monday,
come to riglos?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Si dH - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to Si dH)
>
> I thought you might latch onto that...
>
> Having not dome any serious time on grit or other crack intensive venues since graduating (from where I've lived, why would I?) its hardly a surprise is it? Like I said if I'd laybacked at the bottom I might have had more joy on the lower section but you only learn by trying and all that, thin jams like that are one of my many areas of weakness.
>
> THe problem, incidentally, with saying It's peak hvs is that when you compare it to things like gnr and bond street which i did not too long ago it becomes apparent that it's cobblers! ;) I'm sure there's something in your little book of sandbags that is as hard as grond but grond representative of peak hvs, I struggle with that...

To be honest mate laybacking it is definitely harder. You can either bridge out or get your feet in the crack with good foot-jams all the way up, it's not even strenuous with even semi-reasonable technique. Like you say, you only get better by getting on them. I just find it funny you struggled so much despite crushing an E4 and The Moon in the same trip!

There are a lot of HVSs that are easier, but I'm serious when I say there are also quite a few that are harder, and that if Grond was in the peak district and on grit, that is the grade I think it would get. It doesn't matter anyway, we all have our weak-spots, and from looking at the route comments, you are far from the only culprit. I fell off an E1 this week so I can't exactly talk either, I am useless at finger jamming in parallel cracks.
Si dH - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:
By the way, if you are free from work for a while now it would be cool to arrange a meet-up for some peak lime if you'd be up for it? Let me know when you're around.
Ali - on 03 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy/grubes

M - already reported in last week (Malham/Space Race)
T - rest
W - run?
T - rest
F - Reach - routes up to 6b+ (though ended up doing that one in 2 as misread the crux - well set route!), then headded off early as sunny so fish and chips and beer...
S - BMF - def felt the fish and chips...not good pre-training food!
S - Plan to go for a nice long run in the country failed miserably as was waiting for longer than anticipated for runners to run past me... Out in evening so felt a bit twitchy not getting anything done.

Not too bad a week, though not much climbing wise. That said, felt like I needed a few days rest after three days at Malham, and I have an annoyingly tweaky shoulder...
biscuit - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to PPG:

I was on a mountain bike with no clips etc. that weighed more than me ! Looking at the stats ( it appears triathletes like a LOT of stats ) i lost over 3 mins on the 1st transition when i had to stretch my cramp off. That did the real damage to my target time.

I may pass on your very kind offer of a hill session - though i will take you up on the ice cream ;-)

stevemarkperry:

It was an effort to get myself to get on the bike everytime. I only trained on the bike 8 times from a background of no cycling for years and never competitively. I just don't seem to enjoy it.

I will keep open water swimming as that was good fun on the day and i have an ultra run to go for in October. I may well use the bike/turbo trainer as less impactive training for that.

As an inspiration i know the guy who won this:

http://www.ratracecitytosummit.com/

Now that's a triathlon !
grubes - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:
So are you going to do another one?
Ali - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Ali: Ah, remembered now! Wednesday's run was home from work - 8.5 miles, 76 1/2 mins. Quite please as furthest I've run for a while and didn't feel too terrible...need to do it more!
Steve John B - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy.

Minor ITB knack - visited physio, given exercises etc and banned from running for a week or so. Deja vu!
pork pie girl - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: been leading that move for a while now though but kept missing out about 4 or 5 moves to get into the right position to make the crux moves (which only amounted to about two feet of climbing but alot of faff and hard pulling involved) i'd be tired out so would clip i, ask for slack to be taken in then set my feet and hands in position to do the next few moves (the crux) now i'm managing to link everything apart from the last move to get a great undercut.. just keep falling when i'm almost there.. thought once i can do this it's game on as the next bulge involves big undercuts (i tend like undercuts)but it has one big very reachy move to a marginal pocket that you never catch properly first time so means alot trying to keep myself pulled in on my right arm whilst i scrabble about with my left hand... my biceps feel too tird when i get there at the moment to link it. it's annoying because this move feels fine sometimes then other sessions it takes me a few goes. i'm way off doing the whole route yet.. but hopeful :o)
pork pie girl - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Ali: fish and chips .. you should be like a duracell bunny the next day!
pork pie girl - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:
a mountain bike!! was it an off road route?

you can lose loads of time at transitions and things lie that.. i haven't done triathalons but i know we fart arsed about at food stations on the sportive because we hadn't eaten enough whilst riding and was alkso freezing, we also stopped about 4 times during the last 30 miles for wee breaks (sarah had too many cups of tea at the last food station) and we lost about 20 places because of that.

sarah did the keswick sportive a couple of weeks ago (i was at home with mu mum) she took energy gels and jelly babies, the ride was shorter but packed in loads of climbing (6 mountain passes) the weather was awful but she got a much better time..(came in before shed loads of much more experienced riders) because the ride was more about hill climbs and also because she kept fueled up throughout the ride. might go and do it with her this week... good excuse to eat 6 lbs of jelly babies
mattrm - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Steve John B:

If you don't have it, get a roller and get on it. I've had lots of ITB issues in the past year and you just have to get with the daily ITB stretches and never ever ever ever stop them.
biscuit - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

No it was a road route all the way. That was the only bike i could get hold of. I must say there are some very sexy looking bikes out there - but i can't afford one. People were passing me like i was going in the other direction :-)

I lost time due to having to stretch my cramp out. I helped a guy who got stuck in his wetsuit, he'd put his timing chip strap over his wetsuit leg, and then he stretched my calf off for me in return. 4m transition that should have been 1m.

Grubes:

I am tempted just to get sub 1hr30m but we'll see.
pork pie girl - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit: you have to get a raod bike if oyu're going to enter one of these things again... you will find the climbing a tad harder maybe... unless when you're on your mountain bike you stay away from the granny ring and like grinding through the big gears on your mountain bike and are used to using the whle range of gears.. i found the transition from MTB to raod bike fine as in my world it is illegal to use the granny ring unless oyu're on very steep and technical ground. you will find that you absolutely fly on the flat and downhill sections. they're so much more affordable than MTBs .. pick up an entry level one for under 1k
biscuit - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

I manned up ans tayed on the big ring all the way round, it was quite a flat course. Funnily enough the places where i got overtaken were the hills. They weren't steep but went on for a long way. My weak weedy legs i think. Anything just under 1k can't be justified at the moment just to satisfy my desire to go under 1.30 ;-)

I have remembered i left a wall session out on my initial post.

I went back to Climb Rochdale which used to have some good problems. It's under new management and i guess it's going through a transition period. I could massage the ego and really believe that i flashed 8 V6-7's but i really don't think i did. The problems weren't quite as imaginative as they used to be either - still not bad though i'd go back again. So i did about 30 problems in all including warm ups and finished off with foot on campussing ( good addition ). 3 sets of 100 moves and i noticeably failed on the 3rd set. Time to get on my training board this week i think.
maria85 - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
Amazing week for you there AJM, awesome effort on the E4! I love Holyhead Mountain, Black & Tan is one of my favourite routes ever.

I had most of my week written off by a particularly nasty cold which is still lingering. Got very little done, though I did manage enough to tick last week's goals, a long run and an E1! After spending some touristy time in various parts of N Wales I've not been to in years/ever (Gogarth, slate, Great Orme, Ogwen) I've got lots of routes on the wishlist for this summer.

M: Drove back from Wales in pouring rain. No exercise but did semi-plan a Morocco trip for November which is more than a little exciting!
T: Bike commute. Cold appeared.
W: Really yukky, off work.
T: Bike commute, still yukky.
F: Bike commute
S: With in-laws in N.Wales, still pretty ill. Tried to sneak a climb in at Penmaen Head in evening. Something possessed me to get on Flowstone Shuffle (6b+) without a warm up. Realised how ill I felt still after clipping the first bolt. No strength, head spinning, shaky... yuk! On the plus side I did all the moves though rested on each bolt. Bottled it on the top run-out (easy) section, head really not there. One to go back to, and certainly the best progress I've made at that grade despite feeling horrendous. Tried a 6a+ after but just couldn't make my body climb so gave up.
S: Walk/run up Snowdon from Llanberis to meet the oldies on top (they took the train). 1 hr 30 up (fast walk), 40mins down. Very pathetic times compared to Iain R's above!! Was starting to feel better, although I had really thumpy head near the top as my sinuses were so blocked they wouldn't 'pop'. Legs still aching today from the downhill, oops.
M: Including it in the week as I had a long weekend & it was the only real achievement of the week. Inspired by useful I got on Precious Metal - E1 5b. TICK! My first E1 since 2008 (and only my 4th ever). I was really slow and laced it, but got up it without falling/cheating/crying/screaming so happy enough with that.

This week I want to get a couple of longer runs in (at least 10km), 2 core sessions, and some reasonable efforts at climbing - ideally another E1 and a 6b, though not sure on where I'm headed yet.
leon on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to AJM)
>
> First question - anyone from FC free on Friday? My plan is Lakes Mon-Thurs, but have a free day Friday before I head back home Friday night. Happy for anywhere between Lakes and Cheltenham really although priority to Kilnsey since I've never been before and I quite fancy having a play on something with intentions of coming back for a bit later in the summer.
>
> Would be ideally looking at low-mid Es trad, sport in 7s, boulder to about 7A maybe...

I've got Friday off work if you fancied Chee Tor?
AJM - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

I've agreed to meet Steve at Kilnsey on Friday morning. I assume you know Steve, I've no problem with making it a 3 if he doesn't. He is planning 1030-4, ill hang around for a bit after that if I'm not destroyed by the time he goes.
AJM - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to leon:

Sorry, see above - agreed to go to Kilnsey now.
AJM - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Curious Yellow:

Cheers! (And to maria85, Steve Perry etc)

In reply to Si dH:

Yes I would be keen for some peak lime some point - if I can arrange a couple of days (trying to spread petrol cost to maximise climbing per buck since I'm out of work) I would be well keen for either some classic sport, or maybe a rematch with High Tor (or Chee Tor etc to be honest, not fussy). If I'm in a really good mood I'd even let you humiliate me on some gritstone HVSs too :p

The trad crushing was in full swing again yesterday and this morning but took this afternoon off to laze in the sun, going to have a BBQ later on. Glorious weather!
AJM - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH & Nomics:

The Moon, since you both mentioned it - a DoWH for the E3 leader (ie spacewalking but physically easy climbing for its grade). It was greasy when I did it which made it feel hard but in better conditions for someone who is used to the sort of climbing at South Stack I wouldn't be unhappy with the often-repeated view that its an E2 that gets E3 for the position. It would probably be harder for the second to regain the rock than the leader on what I found to be the crux (the steep wall climbed right wards) just because of the extra amount of rope out.
thebigfriendlymoose - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to thebigfriendlymoose)
>
> I've agreed to meet Steve at Kilnsey on Friday morning. I assume you know Steve...

Steve as in "Eagle River"? I'll not intrude - think I've managed to get a belay for Thursday (and hopefully Saturday and Sunday) anyway - there are limits to what my elbows can handle in a week! Have a good'un!



AJM - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Thats right yes.have a good one then!
thebigfriendlymoose - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Cheers, by the way, if you need any (lanky) beta for the punter classics say hello... I have a memory like a sieve but am sad enough to maintain a spreadsheet of all my sequences!
AJM - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

might be getting in touch after I've located a suitable project :)

If you have free days of holiday still hanging round by mid-month drop me a line as I'm keen if I do find something suitable to do a few more midweek trips...
Eagle River - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

With all that hard trad going down I'm expecting either a flash or at least a one session tick of Frankie Comes to Kilnsey.

I'll settle for nothing less.

Eagle River - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

> - still not bad though i'd go back again.

See, when I went to rochdale last, my feeling was to never bother with it again. I could've caught a bad set of problems but I didn't find anything that was interesting.

I guess the setting at BoulderUK is always going to be much better with it being Ian Vickers's wall.

Daniel Heath - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Just flashed London Wall WOOOOOOHOOOOOO

Sorry I couldn't contain my excitement
Eagle River - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Holy Shit! Congratulations.
mrchewy - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Errrrrm... that might be a little bit good!
AJM - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Nice Dan! Culmination of a lot of progression on those peg scars...

In reply to Eagle River:

You have such high hopes of me, I feel a bit guilty as to the level of disappointment that's going to occur!
ads.ukclimbing.com
biscuit - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

AMAZING !

Video ?
biscuit - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

It's £4.50 and 15 mins from my Mum's.

If BUK was nearer i know where i'd be going.

The quality of setting wasn't as good as previously when they'd just had Gaz Parry in. As i say it may just be in transition.
biscuit - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
>
> AMAZING !
>
> Video ?

Because i want to see it - not for proof. I re read it and realised it could look like i was asking for evidence.
Daniel Heath - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

haha no video. I took it to the crag but didn't fancy pestering another climbing pair to film it, and I didn't want to put the pressure on myself. I'd be keen to do it again for photos/vid though, I can see why Tom Randall goes back to it so much.
Luke Owens - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Grubes & AJM

Top effort AJM & Jimmy!

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Shocking weather... Ended up in the cave about 7pm freezing and windy trying Parisella's Original and The Pillar Start. Fell of the last couple of moves on Pillar Start again.

Wednesday - Deadhangs

30mm Edge - Open Hand
Front 3 (3 x 5-8 secs)
25 and 30 degree slopers alternate hands (3 x 5-8 secs)
Back 3 (3 x 5-8 secs)
Middle 2 (3 x 5-8 secs

20mm Edge - Half Crimp
4 Finger (3 x 8 secs)

Did some gnarly exercise - Holding a static position on a 20mm edge with feet on a chair as far as possible behind the fingerboard - Had to fight the urge to sag, felt like an extreme plank!

Also did, holding one arm lock offs with feet on a chair stretched out behind the board.

Pull Ups
Wide Grip (3 x 8 reps)
Close Grip (3 x 8 reps)

Did the close grip pull up's with legs raised in a "L" hang (Killer on the lower back)

Thursday - Dodgey weather again didn't know where would be dry so went to Ruthin Escarpment - Did a cool F6b+ which is easy up until the final steep section which is a gnarly dyno off a small crimp to a guppy jug thing...Nice!

Tried a short F7a which is just one boulder problem through a bulge. tried redpointing with rubbish beta. Figured out a better way and it was too late to give it a proper go.

Friday - Rest/Holiday

Saturday - Rest/Holiday

Sunday - Gwynant Road Bloc - Newly developed block next to the road.
Did a highball V4/6B+ called Roadkill with one bad and no spotter. Took a few goes to commit to the final throw for the top of the boulder, awesome problem!

Flashed Roadbloc - V5/6C - Well psyched! Have only flashed this grade once before but I'm not sure if that one was 6C. This one felt harder, happy! Great problem with small crimps and a highball finish up a slab!
JimmyKay - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:


You the f*cking man!
pork pie girl - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: oh yessssss!
Luke Owens - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Effort beast!
mattrm - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> (In reply to Eagle River)
>
> Just flashed London Wall WOOOOOOHOOOOOO
>
> Sorry I couldn't contain my excitement

Nice one matey. Well done.
mattrm - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
>
> You have such high hopes of me, I feel a bit guilty as to the level of
> disappointment that's going to occur!

Oi! Stop being negative. You'll crush it. Positive thinking. Stop being so bleedin British!
maria85 - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Awesome! Very impressed :)
useful on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: A bit late for my update...

More of a mileage week this week:
Tu 28/5 Prestatyn Wall, raining outside, but happy with Vb, V1, V1, V2, V2, V2 sent (several routes I've not been able to do before, so seeing improvement)
Th 30/5 Pot Hole Quarry because it was fast drying on rock floor!
* Started on Tosa HVS 5a, very overhanging and pumpy, roasting by the first bit of gear so rested to take my top off! Also my forearms were still aching from Tuesday's bouldering, so not on top form.
* Seconded Once Is Never Enough VS 4c without further ado
* Lead clean Blindfold HS 4a, a very loose but straightforward bridging route.
Sa 1/6 Dinas Cromlech! Ok, not any E grades, we were there for the mileage, so all in my Trango Alp boots.
* Alt Lead on the Flying Buttress (VDiff) an excellent route with nice exposure on pitch 3 and a challenging squeeze up the crack (which I led) on the final pitch.
* Alt Lead on Spiral Stairs (Diff) I "led" the scramble Pitch 1. Craig led Pitch 2. Then something happened and I managed to lose the route and head up Pitch 2 of Sabre Cut VS 4c (the pitch itself is 4b). Very tricky in big boots, only rested once on a nut to tighten my bootlaces!! Slightly scary, boot jams were the order of the day, and I partly wished I'd had my rock shoes on for the bridging/smearing/small footholds. Made it though...
--
So mainly a mileage week. As, I think, this week will be ;)
leon on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> (In reply to Eagle River)
>
> Just flashed London Wall WOOOOOOHOOOOOO
>
> Sorry I couldn't contain my excitement

Wow! Didn't you on-sight your first e4 last year? What's the secret?
Exile - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thant's a very good effort, well done!
Daniel Heath - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to leon:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> [...]
>
> Wow! Didn't you on-sight your first e4 last year? What's the secret?

yeah, High street in August was my first E4 OS (also a crack) and London wall has been the goal for a long time.

Apart from working through the "London wall ticklist" I think the last year has just taught me how useful endurance training is.

I trained nothing but power (my natural weakness) until this time last year. For the last 12 months I've pretty much only trained endurance circuits at the boulder wall with the odd bouldering session. I've got weaker but for sport and trad I this hasn't been a problem. I imagine I'll hit a ceiling where I'm too weak for higher grades but I don't think it'll affect my amateur goals.

Thank you everyone for the kind comments :)
I managed to persuade Tom Randall to buy me a Tiffin cake at the wall tonight!
Si dH - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Dan, when you say endurance circuits, do you basically just mean on the circuit wall at the climbing station, or is there anything else you do? Wht is high st like by the way?
Daniel Heath - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Yeah I spend most of my boring sessions getting pumped in the circuit room at TCS. At the start it was mainly whole routes (~35 moves) but now I tend to work sections of harder routes (10-15 moves).
Daniel Heath - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Yeah High street is cool. (beta alert)

It had more flatties than I was expecting, so you're not reliant on finger locks the whole way. I managed to rest on an awkward hand jam halfway. The top gets pumpy but the moves aren't too hard - it's best just to get a move on up there.
stevemarkperry - on 05 Jun 2013
I forgot about a trip to the Peak on Monday for this week's, I thought it looked a bit empty!

Here's the updated one for this last week (ignore the other):

This Week:
M: 2x Grade 1 scrambles on Kinder, a nice long day out
T: Rest and wedding plans
W: Rest
T: Short but fun mountain bike ride
F: Best man duties
S: Wedding (and best man duties)
S: 12km mountain bike ride (surprisingly not hungover)
Kevster - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, another pitiful week of gluttony and beer without exercise for me. Maybe if I get annoyed enough with not climbing I'll tear the next route down and get 7c/E4 ticked. Maybe...

Well done all those crushing! Too many to name currently! Dead jealous.

Cheers. Kev.
grubes - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
Sorry for those not interested but:

Fit Club Meet 14-16 June

Hi,
Can all interested in coming send me a e-mail through here so I can have an idea of numbers.
Please can you also say if you are driving or need a lift. I will try group people traveling from a similar area if possible.
Do not worry about grades there are plenty of venues around the area for all grades of trad and sport. Grit is also not very far away.
Please can you also let me know if you plan to camp etc.
Weather wise the catwalk at malham is a perma dry venue so something will be climbable. Also a short drive can give different weather.

Thanks
Grubes
useful on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to maria85:

> M: Including it in the week as I had a long weekend & it was the only real achievement of the week. Inspired by useful I got on Precious Metal - E1 5b. TICK! My first E1 since 2008 (and only my 4th ever). I was really slow and laced it, but got up it without falling/cheating/crying/screaming so happy enough with that.

Yay, well done! Glad to have been an inspiration (very humbling!)


leon on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> (In reply to Si dH)
>
> At the start it was mainly whole routes (~35 moves) but now I tend to work sections of harder routes (10-15 moves).

Do you do the circuit so many times before resting?

At the moment i mianly do 4x4 & Arc so interested in circuit training if I can do it in my home wall.

Daniel Heath - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to leon:
> (In reply to Daniel Heath)
> [...]
>
> Do you do the circuit so many times before resting?
>
> At the moment i mianly do 4x4 & Arc so interested in circuit training if I can do it in my home wall.

What are the 4x4s you do?

Yeah, this is the ideal session for me for ~35 moves(we call it 4x4 but it might be different to the 4x4 you do):
90s on/90s off
4 reps
10min rest
4 sets of the above

I don't have much structure for ~15 moves but I try to rest a bit more, go to failure most of the time, and also have 15 minute rests to break up the session.
leon on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> (In reply to leon)
> [...]
>
> What are the 4x4s you do?
>
> Yeah, this is the ideal session for me for ~35 moves(we call it 4x4 but it might be different to the 4x4 you do):
> 90s on/90s off
> 4 reps
> 10min rest
> 4 sets of the above
>
> I don't have much structure for ~15 moves but I try to rest a bit more, go to failure most of the time, and also have 15 minute rests to break up the session.

Sounds the same as what you do but I rekon I take 2.5 minutes to do the 4 problems (~35 moves for the 4 I rekon) so then take 2.5 minutes rest. I rest 15 to 20 mins. I obviously need to climb faster and recover quicker, then maybe I'll be able to climb e5.....
IainRUK - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to IainRUK)
>
> I am intrigued by your target you can't speak about.
>

Officially a GB athlete...

Just had official notice, selected for the IAU World Trail Running Championships, 75km race, 2500m ascent, in North Wales in one month.
mbh - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Cool!
biscuit - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Wooohooo !

And home ground too. No excuses !

Well done Iain. Constant hard grind pays off.
AJM - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Nice one Iain!
Daniel Heath - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Awesome!

you certainly put in the hours for it, nice one
ads.ukclimbing.com
IainRUK - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers all, its been a big few years in my life but running has been massive for me in keeping me on the straight and narrow. But I remember when I first moved to Wales and was always 5th or 4th and I just hoped one day to make top 3 in a race.. then I'd win a few races.. and it was just make the welsh team.. making GB always seemed unattainable until one person said to me I could do it. He's a very sincere guy, class runner in his day and he was very definite, but said my only chance was at the ultra-distance stuff. Its been great seeing his response. Certain people put so much into sport as competitors and then afterwards and he's now 55, races 100 times a year, still running close to sub 3:00 marathons whilst injured.. just so inspiring to know.
Daniel Heath - on 06 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Those kinds of people are so important aren't they.

Affirmation from someone with experience is worth more than nice comments from friends.
Luke Owens - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Awesome! Congratulations!
Eagle River - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

That's brilliant Iain, congratulations.
NMN - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Great news Iain - well done!
Ali - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: This is probably quite a random comment, but you didn't break your leg on consenting did you? Nasty fall off at the 3rd bolt?

Ali - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM, JimmyKay, Daniel Heath & IainRUK: Wow, great work to you all!! E4s, E5s, mental sending trip and UK athlete - you're definitely upping the game on here. Very inspiring! :o)

PPG - you guys at Malham this weekend? CY and I are heading up tonight for the weekend - see you dangling at some point?
Exile - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Awesome stuff!!!
Exile - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Hi Daniel. What sort of grades are the circuits in comparison to your 'top' redpoint grade?
Daniel Heath - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to Exile:

Interesting, I never really think about the grades.

I just try to find a level that will mean I fail just before the end of the session. If I can complete it then it needs to be harder.

Also, a problem is that a route gets so wired that after 10 reps it can feel much easier.

Generally though I'm doing 4x4s on 7a/+ and ~15moves on 8a. My top redpoint grade is probably 7c. It all depends though!
Exile - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Daniel - gives a bit of a ball park idea.
JimmyKay - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:

7c?

Yeah right. You'll crush 8a if you put effort in.
Daniel Heath - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Sorry, these are relative to indoor circuit grades at the climbing station. 8a is really 35 tricky moves in a row!
JimmyKay - on 07 Jun 2013
Daniel Heath - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Too hot for the summer. I know just the route though, in this place
http://www.travelphotogallery.net/22251-2/the-italian-dolomites-cinque-torri-group-photo.jpg

, and honestly it's more aesthetic than even those ones!
Luke Owens - on 07 Jun 2013
I'm away on a non-climbing holiday for a week from tomorrow so i'll do a double update the following week.

Make sure you all crush while i'm away getting fat! I want to see tales of hard sends when I get back!

Thoughts of power.
leon on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
So I just took a flyer on Two Sunspots on the traverse. I'm assuming I went too high. I found a good crimp, above this I found a side pull that I took with my left, saw another side pull higher that I took with my right. At this point my belayer said my feet where about two foot higher than the gear. I couldn't see anything else to pull-on & only dirty slopers for my right foot. Can someone tell me what I should have done? Do you traverse low from the good crimp?
Alex@home - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to leon:


can't remember the holds precisely as it's a while since i did it. what i do remember is clipping a black (i think) thread high-ish which was slightly right of the line but still on route. i think i traversed at that height and the traverse was definitely the crux. there was a crimp which i must have got with my left, then matched on and went again with my left. that's probably the one you found. it was all pretty tenuous and balancey while requiring a fair bit of power to hold the crimp. i got into the crack/groove probably a bit over half way up to the blank bit.

sorry for being so vague - i'll have to go back to remind myself.

what are your first impressions of chee tor? how did you find meditation?

leon on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to Alex@home:

I went too high then, I went up from the crimp a couple of moves & everything went blank.

I like Che Tor, really like the ambiance of the place. I liked Meditation, moves OK but again found it hard to read. Looking forward to going back & falling off an e3 next time...
Si dH - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to leon:
I cant remember th moves im afraid, but I seem to rememer thinking I did the traverse lightly lower than id expected from the ground. Was two sunspots cleanish? That bit was v dirty the other week, so good news!
leon on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:
> (In reply to leon)
> I cant remember th moves im afraid, but I seem to rememer thinking I did the traverse lightly lower than id expected from the ground. Was two sunspots cleanish? That bit was v dirty the other week, so good news!

It was cleanish but it certainly wasn't sparkling. I definitely went too high by the sound of things. Need to put route reading skills to the top of my training agenda.
pork pie girl - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK: brilliant!!!
pork pie girl - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Ali: hiya Ali, we were at malham on wed pm, fri afternoon/evening and sunday afternoon/evening... when do you two get up there? how did it go?

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.