/ Sport Climbing beginners
A friend and I have all the gear, and a bit of training, so feel ready to hit the great outdoors. We were wondering whether anyone had any advice on an ideal bit of rock for our first outdoor climb. Somewhere with some nice easy climbs, with good bolts, and not too high! We live in Cardiff, South Wales, so anywhere within 20-30 miles would be great, closer the better!
Cheers for any info,
Dom and Jon
Well I'm no expert as I climb mainly trad but I've had a few good days sport climbing, have a look at thirty foot wall in tintern quarry, loads of easy short stuff but don't step back too far! Also wyndcliffe quarry has short easy stuff and is very east to get to.
There's probably stuff nearer you but the wye isn't far.
Have fun wherever you go and be safe, bla bla bla....
my first sport lead was at Watchhouse Crag which was good fun, the bolts were in good condition and most of the older ones at foxhole have been replaced.
Of the Wye Sport crags Ban-y-Gor is the best although the easier climbs there are fairly spread out, enough at 6a and below to keep you entertained for a day though.
Haven't done any there myself, and no idea on grades, but it doesnt get any closer to Cardiff than Taffs Well. Just up the A470, by Castel Coch.
Should have added 'The Gap' to that too. Again, only done trad there but its local (near Merthyr). Check out South Wales guidebook.
I'd give you more info but my copy's at work in case good weather and bunk off opportunity planets align...
I've only been to Tirpentwys once - at the time I'd done quite a bit of stuff outside and had lead several f6b routes - I struggled to get up a 5 there, something about the angular sandstone made it seem very hard to climb. Probably just because all my leading had been on limestone up to then, but I know I can away disheartened.
Ban y Gor I struggle with the layout. Cos of the location there aren't any photo-topos as such and actually finding the route you want to climb can be a right pain.
So I hate to say it, but my money would probably be on the 30' wall at Tintern. Yes the place is a great ugly hole in the ground, yes there is a lot of choss about (but the 30' wall is totally sound), but really I reckon this is one of the best places around to just get on lots of lower grade routes without faffing about.
Wear a helmet though!!
Also make sure you know how to safely thread top anchors and finally if you are going to toprope a route several times it is better to do so with quickdraws at the top rather than through the lower offs .
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