/ Tintern quarry - death on a stick?
Is it? We're reasonably sensible climbers who normally go to portland, obviously not going to do anything stupid and would be wearing helmets. Normally I'd just keep my eyes open and give it a punt, but as i'm bored at work, I thought it'd ask here!
Have you read paragraph 5 on page 280 of the Lower Wye guide? The warning is repeated in the 2012 Supplement.
Its an utter dive. So much so its worth the visit for esoterica points.
For info, the text of the paragraph is: "The considerable number of bolted climbs described in this guide might give a mistaken impression to some that Tintern is a mecca for mid-grade sport climbing. For the uninitiated, it must be clearly stated that the instability of the rock at Tintern places this crag at the distinctly ‘adventure’ end of the sport climbing spectrum. It is definitely NOT the crag for the inexperienced. In fact this is not the crag for people of a nervous disposition, the accident-prone, the unlucky, the uninsured, those who are easily disheartened, or anyone with loved ones."
Surely the next sentence should be: "Do you feel lucky punk? Well, DO ya?" :-)
> For info, the text of the paragraph is: "The considerable number of bolted climbs described in this guide might give a mistaken impression to some that Tintern is a mecca for mid-grade sport climbing. For the uninitiated, it must be clearly stated that the instability of the rock at Tintern places this crag at the distinctly ‘adventure’ end of the sport climbing spectrum. It is definitely NOT the crag for the inexperienced. In fact this is not the crag for people of a nervous disposition, the accident-prone, the unlucky, the uninsured, those who are easily disheartened, or anyone with loved ones."
Thanks. Unfortunately I can't claim the credit! I should acknowledge that the words were by section author (and prolific activist) Gordon Jenkin.
I just don't get all this negative stuff about Tintern, why spend time and money developing a crag and then trying to frighten people off going there?
I have been there about 20 times, it's a perfectly good crag, big shiny new bolts and lower offs, that 30 foot wall is a great place for lower grade sport climbing, there is a decent range of grades, some trad, some long routes...it can be sunny or in the shade...easily accessible...of course there is some loose rock about, it's hardly terminal though, get down there, you won't be disappointed...
so apart from Tintern where else has good lower end sports climbs?
That's all very well for you to say, with a user name like that!
I was there a couple of weeks ago doing Phil In The Gaps, whichever route was next to it had a few bits falling down while someone was climbing. Neither he not his belayer had helmets on. One hit on the belayers head and it would have been a big drop.
Stuff up behind the 30' wall is - variable shall we say. Certainly I without guilt claimed an onsight for one of the routes there on the basis that it could no longer be considered the same route I had done 2 years before, and indeed wouldn't be the same route for my second either!!
All grades/names from memory so no shooting me down if I've got any wrong.
From what i'd read in the guidebook there were less dodgy bits on thirty foot wall, hence I was planning on going to it.
I've been once, very early in the season and did half a dozen routes under 6a. Nothing fell off while I was there but it is a bit of a dingey hole and there's plenty that looks like it wouldn't take much to create a shower of debris. Helmets definitely recommended.
As an alternative, Ban y Gor is fairly nearby and has enough at sub 6b / 6b+ to make for a nice day out and the surroundings are far more pleasant imho on a warm summer's day, why not give that a go? Might be worth having a look round for more up to date topo information as more routes have been bolted over the last couple of years.
We've been quite a few times and are now doing some of the more exciting routes. Make sure you pay attention when you belay on some of the walls because a lot comes down.
A lot of the quarry is fine but the loose bits are very loose.
The most frightening place I ever climbed was a natural outcrop somewhere in Shropshire, it was an agglomerate so you climb on pebbles sticking out of the crumbly substrate. Terrifying and like climbing a giant biscuit.
I agree, you get a hell of a lot more done at Tintern, you can clearly see the routes and it is compact, compared to all spread out at Ban y Gor, where you can spend half your time thrashing about in the undergrowth...also, there isn't much sub 6b at ByG...whilst Tintern is a quarry, it still has a massive scale to it, it is an impressive place to climb, on the longer routes....there aren't many 40 metre pitch sport routes about, that you need double rope to abb off...
I thought ban-y-gor was awesome. Really nice rock, strong lines, well bolted. Not very vegetated. Good mix across the grades in the 6's. only problem was it doesn't get much sun. But a good venue.
Last time I went there I got eaten too !
If you have both Lower Wye and the 2012 supplement there is actually a decent amount of routes in the F5 - F6b+ range, and personally I find the crag easier to navigate than Wintour's Leap.
Actually ByG is a horrendous choss pile, plagued by man eating mosquitos, plastered in skin shredding vegetation and if you are fool enough to visit you may be lost for weeks ...so please stick to the friendly great hole in the ground.
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