/ Millstone Fixed Gear

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Jackwd - on 04 Jun 2013
Yesterday, a friend and I were climbing at Millstone, doing some classic cracks and noticed two old pegs tied with cord on Embankment 3, I haven't been to Millstone in a few months but have these appeared recently? Should the cord be removed? Secondly we abbed off of the first pitch of Whitehall, and left an old screwgate in place on the tat, hopefully this will encourage more people to do this route instead of just sticking to the face climbs. Please don't remove it. Or if you do, use it then pass it on and replace old in-situ gear/crabs with it. Thanks.
johncoxmysteriously - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Jackwd:

Eh? How many pitches are there on Whitehall? It's a sixty-foot crack, isn't it?

The pegs have been there for ever. I wouldn't worry too much about the cord.

jcm
mark20 - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Jackwd:
The eye on the Embankment 3 peg is quite small and awkward to clip due to the proximity of the crack so it usually has cord threaded through it.
CurlyStevo - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Jackwd:
normal procedure when you don't want stuff like this removed is to leave a malion or to super glue a screw gate shut, I suspect your screw gate won't be there long, many climbers don't read ukc or would just consider this booty anyway!
Jonny2vests - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Jackwd:

Odd post. I think you've guaranteed at least one more person will be tempted by Whitehall's charms pretty soon. All those Millstone face climbers, they don't know what they're missing.
In reply to Jackwd:

Why would you only do the 1st pitch with that superb groove above?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=221096


Chris
Jackwd - on 04 Jun 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs: Ahhh it was you Chris snapping away yesterday! Your photos show my climbing partner Charley on the first pitch! I was feeling tired and sweaty handed after a long 3 days! Lovely day, just a shame we were so tired, hence abbing off the first pitch.
In reply to Jackwd:

I was out photoing the northern bays in the late sun and snapped you guys as we passed (you were the only climbers in the whole quarry, which was pretty amazing). When I saw this thread I put 2 'n' 2 together and posted the pics!


Chris
Jackwd - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs: We couldn't believe it either, a sunny evening in Millstone! Although we did get bitten to bits! We had been at Stanage earlier in the day and were absolutely roasted off the rock, made a pub retreat for a couple of hours and headed back to Millstone. Good day!
Simon Caldwell - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> Why would you only do the 1st pitch with that superb groove above?

If you can climb 4b but can't climb 5b?
In reply to Toreador:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> [...]
>
> If you can climb 4b but can't climb 5b?

Why not do Covent Garden, that goes all the way to the summit!


Chris
charley - on 05 Jun 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs: The groove above does look superb which is why in the end we decided to abb off and leave it for a slightly cooler day, when feeling fresher so we could actually enjoy it. We were both absolutely knackered.
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In reply to charley:

It certainly looks very clean at the moment, a good time to get on it!


Chris

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