UKC

I've read somewhere that in summer months there might be restrictions due to fire risk, is that true? I tried ringing the French number that I've found on one of the websites, in order to find out about access, but didn't have any luck.

In reply to alps_p:

you should be OK at the moment, but it's not certain; bans are usually only in the high summer - July / August. It's not all that warm at the moment and I can't see any bans so far. But this can change pretty fast; I think all you can do is call the prefecture and ask.

http://www.calanques13.com/acces-calanques.html
http://jet.sms.sfr-sh.fr/cdt13/CDT13info.html

In reply to 8ace: last time we climbed at Sormiou and were able to drive pretty much all the way to the group of buildings on the coast; according the website this will now not be possible?

In reply to alps_p: No, this is not possible in the summer. The fine is pretty high (130 euros)... Same goes for Morgiou.

In reply to Frenchfinesse: thanks, so if we want to climb in some of the crags at the coast, it's only possible by public transport? From where we park the car, how long would it be to walk? I still had no luck trying to ring the French number listed on the website...

In reply to alps_p: No need to ring anyone, the roads for Morgiou and Sormiou are closed for the whole summer now. For the fire restrictions, they are only given in the evening for the next day (see link provided in some of the other posts). It is relatively cold here, there has been a lot of rain this year and there is no strong wind forecast in the coming days so there should be no restriction at all this week.

For Morgiou, you can park in Luminy (or go there by public transport) and then it takes approximately 30 min to reach the village. I am less familiar with the access to Sormiou but I think there is a relatively short walk as well.

In reply to alps_p: You can get to loads and loads of great crags from the Luminy parking. The Paroi Noire for example is about 30mins and practically flat (sort of)! You can walk in to Sugiton, Grand Candelle, the Morgiou crags...loads. From Cassis you can walk to En Vau - a very nice walk.

In reply to alps_p:

Are you frying yet? supposed to be 29° tomorrow and Wednesday.

E

In reply to ChrisBrooke: awesome, thanks to both of you for replies. We're flying for a weekend of climbing on Friday.

In reply to alps_p: Enjoy your WE! It will not be that hot and the Calanques have rarely been so green. They are really magnificent this year.

In reply to Frenchfinesse:

Oh - might have a look down there.

E

In reply to alps_p: as has been mentioned, the access to Sormiou is restricted now. The Colline du lune crag is just a 5 minute walk from the sormiou parking area, allow 45 minutes to walk from the parking area down to sormiou port. The les goudes area currently has no access issues with views of the sea, etc

In reply to Removed Usertk: Les Goudes has indeed no official access issue, except maybe for the huge traffic jams that build up every Saturday/Sunday in the late afternoon

In reply to Frenchfinesse:

I went to a Marseille match back in February and we went to a restaurant in Goudes for a Bouillabaisse lunch before the game - amazing.

E

In reply to Enty: which reminds me; it is possible to book a table at Bar Nautic, Morgiou (0491400637) or Le Chateau, Sormiou (0491250869) and they put your car reg. no. on a list with the gate keeper so you can drive down to the port all year round. I've been told the Bouillabaisse at le chateau is also great...

In reply to Removed Usertk:

I think so - we went a couple of years ago and the gatekeeper just up from the prison said that if we booked a table at the restaurant we could drive down.

E

In reply to alps_p: I wanted to update the thread for those people who might come across this when planning their trips to the Calanques. We returned yesterday, and climbed in Morgiou (next calanque after Sormiou). The road is blocked about 4-5 kilometers before the actual calanque, there are guardians instructing people to park their cars there and continue on foot. The walk takes about 40-50 minutes. Local residents seem to be exempt, and we ate in a restaurant in Morgiou village where plenty of people seem to have driven from Marseille for dinner.

In reply to alps_p: sorry just read about the trick with restaurant booking. So the exemption is not so much for local residents (which is what we had assumed) but for people who make a booking at the restaurant.

I'll be climbing around the Calanques and other (better?) rock in Provence within a couple of hours driving -- be glad to have a partner so I don't have to rope-solo.

I'm based near Aubagne, familiar with driving access to all Calanques sectors (and other crags).
Contact me with this info:
www.roberts-1.com/ski/c/07d/p/

Be glad to have a partner, I follow up to 6b, lead 5b (and some 5c)
List of previous climbs in France + Calanques:
www.roberts-1.com/c/c/fr

Ken