In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers Steve, good to catch up. Fun evening Friday?
Indoor/training priorities
- Keep up strength, flexibility and core training
<STG>
- Keep getting out as much as possible and push hard
- Try more E4s
- Get back on Ames Low, and try a real (ie not power stamina) V6/7 too
- Tick some sport pyramid routes
<MTG> - 2013
- Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
- Right Hand Man
- 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route)
- Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s <So far: 5xE3 onsight, 2xE3 flash, 2xE4 onsight>
- Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips (see priority below for reasoning) - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
- Get in best shape possible for 2014 road trip - mainly this means going out as strong as possible since strength will inevitably fade over the trip
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
- E4 onsight - ticked 2
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: Black crag, Borrowdale. My friend had a good lead go on Prana, E3, but took a whipper off the crux and didn't have the juice to finish it. So I led it on his gear - the crux was above the runners and none of them were strenuous to place so it sped things up but otherwise made little difference. Crux moves were tricky but ok in the end. Then got on Grand Alliance, E4, and took a while to fathom this one out but got there in the end. Really nice pitch with a delicate traverse to start and a spicy feeling crux at the top. So that's E4 number 2 and another E3 in the bag!
T: Reecastle, Borrowdale. Seconded Rack Direct, E2, to warm up, way more strenuous than it looked like it should be. Then did Thumbscrew, E3, which was nice. A good venue with a decent selection of pretty well protected E2/3 routes, a good place to push the boat out perhaps especially if you're sport fit. Was deliberating having a go at White Noise, the other E3, but decided that after a bad nights sleep my arms didn't quite have it in them. So chilled out and had a BBQ instead
W: Gimmer. Repeated Kipling Groove to warm up, led the undercling pitch this time. Cracking route, had forgotten how nice it was. My mate couldn't get over the roof on Equus but with a bit more reach I was able to pull it out of the bag, brilliant brilliant route, guide says top end E2 but if you'd told me it was E3 I wouldn't have complained too much! Seconded Whits End Direct, which was nice. Feet so sore from little edges that I decided Eastern Hammer would have to wait for another trip, looks awesome but mega steep!
T: Dow. Both feeling pretty broken by this point! After talk of Tumble, E4, or any number of E2s, by the time we had sweated our way up to the crag in super muggy humid weather there was talk of whether we could justify doing Eliminate A, the classic VS, instead! Eventually decided to man up and did Sidewalk, which is an Extreme Rock E2 which doesn't get done very often, and has a rep for being a bit grubby - we knew someone had been on it the previous day though so figured now might be the time. It's a shame it doesn't get more traffic really as the first 3 pitches were good climbing, a bit grubby but dry and cleaning up. Above that the quality went down, to be fair, but there we go. Got midged at the top it was so oppressive and still. That was us finished really.
F: Kilnsey with Steve. Got beta-d up Directissima to start off, nice route if well loved! Then put the clips up biological need, Steves project, with his beta. Figured all but one move out but it felt hard. Got back on it once the shade came around, unleashed the Dragons on the footholds and came away with a decent sequence and it felt way easier. Had another go where I nearly managed to link the bouldery start (stopped by tips so thin they were basically sweating up at any opportunity, and you can't really stop to chalk), and did from the jugs by bolt 2 into the start of the crux, and a short section post crux from the first stuck on hold to the top. Last go I pulled up to bolt 2 to save the torture of the lower holds on my tips, but only managed a very short section before the whole of my body admitted defeat - I was done!
S: Rest
S: Rest
Well, the trip is done. A really good list of things done.
On the sport side I guess I've got a project at Kilnsey, although I need to get my sport power endurance firing on all cylinders I think after a lot of stamina and mileage but comparatively little sport-style forearm exploding shoulder trashing pump. Be good to get a bit more sport on the go now, been a while since I ticked anything really hard and 8a isn't going to climb itself! Ive got some unfinished business locally it would be good to clean up, 2 7b+s ( Mercurian Sump Dweller and Sing a mean toon kid) and a soft 7c (global solutions). And somewhere I need to find myself a second 7c+...
On the trad side, I wanted to do 10 E3s and an E4 this year and am now at 7 E3s and 2 E4s with over half a year left. And I've achieved huge swathes from my wish lists (The Moon, Prana, Grand Alliance, Equus and so on), done a clutch of Extreme Rock routes, my first ones I think, and a host of other routes besides.
- I've got some unfinished business, in that having run out of time/arms/psyche to do them on the days in question I want to do Eastern Hammer, Foil and Tumble on future trips.
- I failed miserably on a few things, with a rest on The Burner and a head fail on Samurai Groove right at the start, and on seconding Grond, although I note with amusement that Si dHs view of the grade is very different from that of the folks at Rockfax Towers!
- And then there's Resurrection, which I'm very pleased with, a glorious failure perhaps, but its also if I'm honest left me wondering whether I want to get back on it any time soon because I'm not sure I could replicate the effort I put in and the experience I had on it, maybe one to leave for a few more years not because I'm physically incapable of getting back on it and doing it cleanly but because I think almost anything I could do on it wouldn't be quite the same as having gone all out for it in the first place. That might be nonsensical rambling, I don't know. Time will tell.
Currently it looks like no work is forthcoming and that I've got a bit of time around home coming up, some local consolidation, and then maybe a trip to Cornwall at the end of the month. Other priority areas I want to visit are Sharpnose, Peak Lime trad, Yorkshire sport and Pembroke.